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How to Clean a Boat Water TankLast Updated: July 10, 2024 References This article was co-authored by Craig Morton and by wikiHow staff writer, Megaera Lorenz, PhD . Craig Morton is the CEO of Aquarium Doctor Inc. based in Huntington Beach California and servicing Orange County, Los Angeles County, and the Inland Empire. With over 30 years of aquarium experience, Craig specializes in creating custom aquarium designs along with aquarium installation, service, and maintenance. There are 11 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 22,747 times. Having a fresh water system on your boat is super convenient if you tend to go on long boating trips. You can use it to cook, clean, or even take showers while you’re out on the water. Unfortunately, boat water tanks can become home to mold, bacteria, and algae, giving the water an unpleasant smell and taste or even making it unsafe to drink. Keep the water on your boat fresh and clean by cleaning out your tank and disinfecting it with bleach at least once a year. Emptying out the Tank - The location of the pump and water tank varies from one boat to another. If you’re not sure where to look, consult a schematic of your boat or your owner’s manual, if you have it.
 - Listen for air coming out of the taps. This will tell you that the tank is empty.
 - Many boats have pumps that automatically turn on after the water pressure drops below a certain level. This is meant to keep your water moving as the level in the tank gets lower. [4] X Research source
Removing Dirt and Residue - In some cases, the cap might be difficult to remove. You may need a special tool to open it. Consult the user manual for your boat or your specific water system. [6] X Research source
 - If you’re able to get your hand in through the opening of the tank, feel the inside walls. If they feel slick or slimy, that’s a sign of bacterial buildup.
 - If you use a power washer, you’ll need some angle attachments to get into hard-to-reach corners.
 - If you emptied the tank completely the first time, it will probably take a few minutes for the water to start flowing again since there will be air in the pipes.
Disinfecting the Tank - Consult your user manual if you’re not sure where the water heater is located.
 - To remove your faucet aerators, unscrew them with a wrench. Clean the aerators with hot, soapy water and a scrub brush. If there are a lot of mineral deposits on the screen, you can remove them by soaking the aerator in white vinegar for a few minutes before scrubbing it. [12] X Research source
- If your pump has a protective mesh strainer, leave that in place. It will help protect your pump during the cleaning process.
- If your water tank has a vent hose and screen, detach those as well. Clean them with hot, soapy water if they appear dirty.
 - You can use this chlorine calculator to determine the correct amount of bleach to use: https://www.publichealthontario.ca/en/health-topics/environmental-occupational-health/water-quality/chlorine-dilution-calculator .
- For example, if you have a 50 US gal (190 L) tank, you’d need to use about 6.7 fluid ounces (200 mL) of bleach.
Warning: Never mix bleach with other household cleaners, since it could create toxic chlorine fumes. Always use bleach in a well-ventilated area.  - Combining the bleach with water before you pour it in will also help prevent corrosion if your tank is aluminum.
 - Alternatively, you can fill the tank with fresh water before adding the bleach to the tank.
 - If your tank has a vent, let a little of the water and bleach solution spill out through the vent in order to sanitize the vent line. If the vent is exterior, put a bucket or other container under it to keep the bleach solution from entering the water outside your boat.
 - It may take a few minutes for the pump to push all the air out of the lines and get the water flowing again.
 - If you don’t have time to let the bleach stay in your water tank for a full 12 hours, try to leave it for at least 4 hours. [18] X Research source
 - If you still smell a hint of bleach after flushing and refilling the tank twice, add 1 teaspoon (4.9 mL) of hydrogen peroxide per 20 gallons (76 L) of tank capacity and flush the tank again. The hydrogen peroxide should neutralize the remaining bleach.
 - Start with the tap farthest from the pump and work your way to the closest one. Make sure to let the air out of each tap to get your system working properly again. [22] X Research source
Expert Q&A- Even with regular cleaning, the water on a boat can quickly take on an unpleasant smell and taste. Try adding a little lemon juice to the tank to keep your water fresh longer and improve its odor. [23] X Research source A solution of about 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of lemon juice per .26 gallons (0.98 L) of water can effectively disinfect drinking water. [24] X Research source Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
 You Might Also Like Expert Interview Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about cleaning a water tank, check out our in-depth interview with Craig Morton . - ↑ https://youtu.be/FM93IVN5fjk?t=9
- ↑ https://youtu.be/FM93IVN5fjk?t=18
- ↑ https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/let-it-flow
- ↑ https://youtu.be/-Ov-24uJ8oE?t=101
- ↑ https://youtu.be/-QzsEvw67ec?t=141
- ↑ https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/decontaminating-a-tainted-water-tank
- ↑ https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/cleaning/a28198674/how-to-clean-dirty-faucet-aerator/
- ↑ https://youtu.be/-Ov-24uJ8oE?t=254
- ↑ https://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/boat-water-tank-treatments-tested-20504
- ↑ https://www.researchgate.net/publication/15339874_Lemon_juice_as_a_natural_biocide_for_disinfecting_drinking_water
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Bleaching Fresh Water Tanks / Bad Move ? Our sailboat is 10 years old and we puta very small amount of clorox bleach in our stainless fresh water tanks then flushed with fresh water in attempt to clean them out. Months later we noticed, when inspecting interior of all 3 stainless tanks, that rust type bubbles are forming on the bottom seams of the tanks. Could the bleach have caused this corrosion? If they start to leak at the edges is there any caulk...etc that can be used to stop any leaks or are the tanks done for? All comments welcomed. You should not have damaged the stainless steel in any event. You might discolor it, but even that is unlikely. I'd check those bubbles out a bit closer as there may be a coating on the inside that's breaking down. A photo wouldn't hurt if you can provide one.  Also, if the rust is at the seams, it may be due to the fact that welds are generally far more prone to corrosion than unwelded stainless. I seriously doubt that a small amount of chlorine bleach would bother stainless tanks much, especially if you flushed the system with fresh water shortly afterwards.  More likely is crevice corrosion in the stainless from being in an aneorobic environment and the welds are the first thing to fail. Diluted beach, properly washed out afterwards will not cause such a problem. Tanks will need to be pulled and re-welded. An interior coating of epoxy suitable for potable water should prevent a re-occurance otherwise you will have to contend with this again down the road. BTW, one epoxy well suited for coating the interior of potable water tanks is CeramKote 54. It is designed specifically for potable water systems. MAS epoxy support told me that their low viscosity resin is suitable for potable water applications. For what it's worth. They do not have any NSF certifications though.  I agree with Camaraderie: Stainless Steel is very susceptible to crevice corrosion. That is probably what is occurring here. I has nothing to dowith the bleach. Excellent - well that at least makes me feel better that we didnt screw it up as we used 8oz bleach per 10 gal h2o then flushed system. We had the same looking rust deposits on a leaky water heater we just removed - so it must have been devloping for 9 yrs 7 months (when new) then with our luck decided to leak months after we purchase boat. Getting back to sailing dog and brak comments, i now know the right thing per cam is to rip them out to weld which we will do at some point but I do have pretty good access to the interior of the tanks through a 12" port and just plan to use for showering - thoughts on temp fix - after good cleaning and light sand can we apply epoxy to the seams and hold off on rewelding till later date? Or is that just compounding problem? Thank you for all for your time and insight. I'm not convinced that you necessarily have crevise corrosion as, unless you're running about with your tanks pressed up at all times, the environment is not anaeroebic. I'd investigate further as to what exactly is bubbling and, if it is crevise corrosion, I'd sand, treat with ospho, and seal with epoxy. It beats the joys of removal. The tank may well already have a coating and that may be what you're seeing fail at the welds-it's the most likely spot for any type of failure regardless. doug...temp fixes are fine as long as they are working...just be sure your underlayment is dry and you don't have rot starting beneath the tanks. I doubt it is crevice corrosion...more likely, it is related to the changes caused by the temperature of the welding process... Pics? "rust type bubbles" sounds wired.... The finest tank sealant I have encountered is two-part polysulphide. I bought it in wee two-part tins. I used it to repair, in-situ, a stainless tank that was leaking like a sieve. That was 11 years ago, and it still does not leak, at least does not leak from where I was able to get to the welds. It sits for months, and there is not even a drip. If you are serious about trying it, I will find the name of the manufacturer. There are some tins of it in my old garage. Never fill a stainless tank right to the brim. Keep it oxygenated. Leave a free surface and make sure the breather is open. I would avoid anything bearing chlorides in there. Chlorine is not good news to stainless, and is normally death to it if there is no oxygen around. I would be particularly worried if a stainless tank was filled to the brim and chlorine was in there, even if the breather was open. The breather is likely to be too small to keep the tank oxygenated. If it is oxygenated there Saildog, certainly. It can be messed up very promptly if it's not. Chlorine feasts on the stuff, where there is no oxygen around. At least it feasts on the stainless I have, anyway.  Calder says the bleach breaks down and goes away within hours in a O2 enviro, simply leaving the fill cap off is enough to clear the bleach, no purging necessary. Calder is correct. And the dirtier your tank is, or the more rust it has in it, the faster it will use up the available free chlorine in the solution. Treatment can be made much more effective, in terms of sanitizing the tanks, by making the water solution slightly acidic prior to chlorination. Acidic solutions allow more chlorine to become "free chlorine" molecules and thus sanitize better. A simple swimming pool test kit is sufficient to test pH and available chlorine. The water can be made acidic by the introduction of white vinegar. Top Contributors this Month  Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen. Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser. - ClubSeaRay.com Message Boards
- General Discussion
Clean Fresh Water Tank- Thread starter redlightning
- Start date Feb 12, 2024
- Feb 12, 2024
 redlightningActive member. I follow the standard procedure sanitizing my fresh water tank. Bleach and cycle 2-3 tanks of water thru the system. I have followed this on 3 cruisers now. Most recent boat seems to have had some minor mineral build up at the faucets. I noticed it also in the head sink. I used some vinegar to deal with it and all good. I didn't use the boat much last year and when we did the water had strong sulphur smell. I drained the tank and had it winterized for the season. Ok, so this coming season I am considering pouring a strong concentration of vinegar in my fresh water tank and follow the same procedure for sanitizing. My thoughts are, if there is some mineral build up or residue in the tank or lines this will disolve it and be flushed out with a couple of tank cycles. Any thoughts on this idea?  Pirate LadyWell-known member. I use vinegar, never bleach. Why would you put poison in your fresh water supply?  Pirate Lady said: I use vinegar, never bleach. Why would you put poison in your fresh water supply? Click to expand...  I would do a vinegar flush and rinse, followed by a bleach flush and rinse. Cleaning vinegar is stronger and works a bit better and quicker. Don’t leave either one in the system for more than a few hours before flushing. A rough boat ride with the chemicals will help clean up the tank. You will want to check the pump filter while doing this. The gunk being dislodged can clog the filter.  sulfur smell = water heater. You're on the right track. But I don't think the mineral build up is the cause of the smell - that smell is typically just from stagnant water. I've found the hot water tank is the worst culprit (for both things). The cleaning vinegar mentioned above would be my go to, as well, for the buildup. It may take a while to get the smell all the way out, though. Normal vinegar is about 4% vinegar - cleaning vinegar is something like 30%. You can get it at HD or Lowes. Bleach should still work well for the smell, though. But adding on to what I mention above about the hot tank... I'd focus your attention there. You could disconnect the tank from the rest of the system and fill it manually so you don't supersaturate the entire system.  Super ModeratorThe super smell is from water heater. Run the flush and it will get it out. I always start the flush in HW side then finish on cold water side.  I went crazy trying to get rid of the smell before my water heater rusted through. After replacing it I haven't had a smell again. Lending credence to the water heater theory above Jaybeaux said: For the same reason you don't eat a dishwasher POD but use it to clean the dishes. Click to expand...  We always start winterization with the water heater. We turn off all other valves and run 30% rv/ Marine antifreeze about ten gallons through until filled then run each facet until we see pink. After we do fresh water side two more 5 gallon buckets. Stee6043 said: Ohh boy. $10 says you protested fluorine being put into our water systems at some point in your life? Click to expand...  Stee6043 said: Ohh boy. $10 says you protested fluorine being put into our water systems at some point in your life? @redlightning I'd suggest you start filtering your water based on the sulfur smell. Bleach the heck out of your system this year and then start using a charcoal filter when you fill your tank. You can buy them cheap or make your own with nicer filters from places like Home Depot. You'd need to soften the water to reduce the mineral build up. I assume you're filling up at a marina that uses well water? Can you fill up at a gas dock or somewhere that has city water? That would likely help...if you're not afraid of the poisonous city water View attachment 158906 Click to expand... Vinegar won't get rid of the bacteria that are dying in the water heater - it's the dead bugs that create the smell. I have a 120 gallon water tank with large water heater - three or four full cups of Clorox in a partially filled tank then fill it full. Then run all of the taps until chlorine can be smelled on each cold and hot including the heads and anchor locker. Then I let it steep for at least four hours then drain, fill, drain again then fill. Never an issue with water purity. anyone have any input as to concentration to use in the full water system. I used normal household vinegar to descale my hot water tank on another boat. I guess household vinegar is about 5%. I was thinking about doing 10%.  Blueone said: Hey slow down there buckwheat…. I learned the bleach thing from Trump….. he also says if you get Covid it will cure that as well…. Problem is I haven’t gotten Covid yet to give it a try Click to expand... redlightning said: anyone have any input as to concentration to use in the full water system. I used normal household vinegar to descale my hot water tank on another boat. I guess household vinegar is about 5%. I was thinking about doing 10%. Click to expand...  Little DuckyIn the past few years I've used compressed air to evacuate all the water in my fresh water system which eliminates the need for water safe antifreeze and surprisingly eliminated any smells when refilling the system including the sulfur smell from the hot water system.  I have always read all the different ways people winterize and wondered why they don’t put directions in the manual on how to do it right. My RV owners manuals have detailed instructions on how to winterize and mostly all RVs are plumbed the same for winterizing. Hot water heater bypass and freshwater tank bypass is accomplished with a turn of a knob too keep pink out of those tanks, it has no business being in there. The instructions also tell you to leave the drain plug out of the hot water heater so it can breathe. Mine even came with a replacement plug with a screen to keep bugs out while in storage. RVs all have “winterizing ports” to hook your pink bottle directly to. Couldn’t be easier. Also tells you how to sanitize the system when returning to service by adding 1/4 cup of household disinfecting bleach in a 1 gallon jug of water for each 15 gallon increment of freshwater tank capacity, pour it in the tank, fill the tank with water, return the bypass knobs to normal so that the bleach solution goes in the hot water heater, run all of the fixtures. Leave it set at least 4 hours, not more than 24 hours and rinse. I’ve never had smells or any other problem. It just takes a lot longer to do the boat than the RV, like an hour and a half vs 15 minutes, because nothing is easy on a boat, sometimes by design.  Forum statistics Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen. Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers. - Trawler Forum
- General Discussion
Adding Bleach to Water Tanks- Thread starter gar
- Start date Aug 16, 2014
- Aug 16, 2014
Veteran MemberHello all, I have been told to add a small amount of bleach when filling the water tanks to help keep the bugs at bay. Anyone know the right amount per gallon which is safe. We don't drink our tank water, but want to keep it at a safe level just in case someone does. Thanks Gary  gar said: Hello all, I have been told to add a small amount of bleach when filling the water tanks to help keep the bugs at bay. Anyone know the right amount per gallon which is safe. We don't drink our tank water, but want to keep it at a safe level just in case someone does. Thanks Gary Click to expand... rwidman said: I don't understand why people are reluctant to drink the water from their boat. Using good water to start with and a dedicated drinking water safe hose to fill the tanks, this should be just fine to drink. My wife and I have been drinking the boat's water for years. Click to expand...  sunchaser said: Drinking boat water can make one grouchy and opinionated. Click to expand...   Valued Technical ContributorPeggie Hall, best known for her advice on marine sanitation systems (she ran such a company for many years) offers this advice about potable water systems: "Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many people—and even some boat manufacturers—believe that keeping the tanks empty reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark home for those “critters.” "There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh, but all that’s really necessary is an annua--or in especially warm climates, semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system-—tank and plumbing. The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles (including boats). The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated. "Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete. 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5-7% sodium Hypochlorine solution). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines. 3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours. 4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat. 5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion. 6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water. "People have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are are cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank." Before you ask...For regular annual recommissioning, it prob'ly wouldn't be necessary to completely fill a 125 gallon tank if you use your water and replace it often...since 90% of foul water problems originate in the plumbing, 40-50 gallons should be enough in most cases. But since yours has been unused for several years, I think you'd better fill it completely...'cuz the same "critters" that grow in damp dark lines are also likely to have taken up housekeeping in a tank. That chapter includes some additional things you can do keep your fresh water fresher longer, btw. Peggie ---------- Peggie Hall Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987 Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor" http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_rid_of_boat_odors.html  knotheadchartersSenior member. Two in-line filters and using city water, I drink the water on my boat. As far as the water tank underway, same thing. I do drain and refresh the water in my tank occasionally. I read somewhere that adding bleach can corrode your tank especially if it's aluminum. re the Peggie Hall post, when I had a residential well and the pump had to be pulled for service or replacement, that was pretty much what we did to "purify" the well and water system afterwards. Pour a gallon of unscented bleach into the well, then run water through every outlet until we smelled bleach, let it sit overnight or a few hours, then run water until the smell was gone. djmarchand said: Peggie Hall, best known for her advice on marine sanitation systems (she ran such a company for many years) offers this advice about potable water systems: solution is approved and ... 1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5-7% sodium Hypochlorine solution). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. Click to expand... Remember that containers may need to be sanitized before using them to store safe water: 1. Use bleach that does not have an added scent (like lemon). 2. Add 1 teaspoon (64 drops or 5 milliliters) of household liquid bleach to 1 quart (32oz, 4 cups, or about 1 liter) of water. 3. Pour this into a clean storage container and shake well, making sure that the solution coats the entire inside of the container. 4. Let sit at least 30 seconds, and then pour out solution. 5. Let air dry OR rinse with clean water that has already been made safe, if available. Click to expand...  Greetings, Our water tank has a history of laying fallow. We just haven't used the boat enough thus far. The one and only time I opened the tank I noticed what appeared to be algae on the sides. We do not use the water for drinking as of yet BUT in anticipation of an extended period aboard and potentially using the on board water for consumption, what I plan to do in the next month is: Open the inspection port on the tank (aprox. 24" diameter) Drain the tank with a sump pump (for speed and volume) Wash down the walls and baffles with a pressure washer Vacuum up any resultant "material" Repeat if necessary Spray down the walls and baffles with bleach (full strength) Vacuum up residuals Replace inspection port (temporarily) Charge tank with Peggy's magic "elixer" (to the amount of 50 gallons or so) Flood water lines and let stand Re-drain tank from inspection port (sump pump) Replace and seal inspection port Fill tank (550 gallons) Add bleach (amount to be calculated) Final flush of water lines with "treated" (from the 550 gallons+bleach) water I anticipate (hahahaha....There's that word again) it will take the better part of a day to complete.  Capt.Bill11My 2 cents, I just went through a similar bleach treatment. I believe what Peggy was describing was what is known as a chlorine "shock" treatment, similar to what is commonly done to a backyard pool after your kids weekend pool party. A much larger amount of bleach is added to "shock" the system.(critters) Somewhat like when the doctor tells you to take ALL of that antibiotic even if you feel better. For the last several years I have just been adding a tablespoon of bleach to my tanks when I would fill them. The result was a chlorine smell that would last a couple of weeks and then a couple of weeks later that "stale" smell would come back. I recently "shocked" my system with 2/3 cup of bleach, but forgot about leaving it for 3 hours and only did about an hour. I then flushed it with fresh water twice. The results are that I am almost up to 2 months now with fresh smelling water in the tanks after 2 partial refills. I am convined that Peggy's process is valid, though I may not use as much bleach and do the shock treatment more often than once a year if the stale smell comes back.  Technical GuruWhen my tank is low, I add a splash of bleach then run enough through each spigot to know the plumbing is filled. Let sit for a few hours to a day or so, then drain til pump ventilates. Then fill tank and clear lines. This works well. If I go for six months without doing this, I can detect stink in the water. Do "the treatment", all good again. As I understand bleach, it is both concentration and contact time that disinfects. High concentration, kills fast. Low concentration kills slow, but still kills. Been doing what she recommends for decades and always drink boat water. On this boat Ido have a carbon filter in the galley faucet . Her point about being sure to treat all lines is critical. They are the first togo bad. I have never figured out how to treat ice maker line though.  hollywood8118bayview said: Been doing what she recommends for decades and always drink boat water. On this boat Ido have a carbon filter in the galley faucet . Her point about being sure to treat all lines is critical. They are the first togo bad. I have never figured out how to treat ice maker line though. Click to expand... Since we started cruising to suspect places we always added bleach to our water tanks.. I would rather have a little bleach in the system than all the growing stuff . We usually only drink from the galley which has a carbon filter that removes the bleach taste.. but I can taste a touch of it in the head while brushing teeth.. no biggie. One big no no is to add bleach to the tanks if you have a water maker that uses tank (output) water to do its timed back flush cleaning cycles.. bleach KILLS water maker membranes HOLLYWOOD hollywood8118 said: Since we started cruising to suspect places we always added bleach to our water tanks.. I would rather have a little bleach in the system than all the growing stuff . We usually only drink from the galley which has a carbon filter that removes the bleach taste.. but I can taste a touch of it in the head while brushing teeth.. no biggie. One big no no is to add bleach to the tanks if you have a water maker that uses tank (output) water to do its timed back flush cleaning cycles.. bleach KILLS water maker membranes HOLLYWOOD Click to expand...  psneeld said: plus I see in your avatar the bleach whitens your teeth.... Click to expand...  Hospitality OfficerOver the 17 odd years I have had my two boats we have never traeted the tanks in any way, and happily drink the water. I think we have SS tanks and we go through about 100 lites(approx 23 gallons) of water a day, so we fill the tanks every 10-14 days. We have pretty good water on the whole in Sydney, so don't feel the necessity of treating the tanks. Moderator EmeritusAndy, if your marina water is city water it is treating your system for you. Most municipal water systems are chlorinated and if you keep filling that frequently from a treated water source bacteria should never be an issue. A more remote marina will likely be supplied with untreated well water. Not all well water is created equally due to a host of circumstances beyond your control. Couple that with reduced fill frequency and some boat tanks can become real science projects.  1950's/60's while growing up on boats I learned a strong shot of bleach in water tank at every other fill up is good to keep things in order. To this day I add bleach every other fill up. In 77 gallon tank-age I pour in about a cup o' bleach. Water looks sparkling clean with slight bleach smell; never have I "flushed-out" boat water tanks/system. Being that we do not live aboard... we bring ample drinking water aboard but do rinse food and brush teeth using tank water. Simple is as simple does! PS: From taste while brushing teeth and clarity in a glass I feel drinking tank water would be OK. Good carbon filter on one tap should surely make even the slightest contamination a non-plus.  Chlorine within the system if maintained at 2 to 10 parts per million (which would be .2 -1 mg/l) will effectively eliminate most pathogens. Chlorine when exposed to air will gas out fairly quickly, thus using a hose to fill the tanks will deplete some of the Chlorine supplied with the municipal water. Rolling around in the tank will deplete some more. A swimming pool test strip will not even register such low amounts. Hach Company has a small test kit available. Remember that the household bleach is only about 6-7% chlorine if you do the math on the 2-10 ppm. New municipal water tanks and main lines are chlorinated similarly to the prior posts to a point of 50 parts per million and held for 24 hours then flushed (or 50 mg/L.). RT Firefly said: what I plan to do... Spray down the walls and baffles with bleach (full strength) Click to expand... Greetings, Mr. d. 5:1-got it, thanks.  Be careful if aluminum tanks - can cause aluminum hydroxide and aluminum chloride: http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=410459 To "shock treat" a new tank 50 parts of bleach to 1,000,000 parts of water. Then completely flush. For maintaining a Chlorine residual 2 parts bleach to 1,000,000 gals of water. Remember that what you think is a gallon of bleach is really only 5-7 % Hypo-chlorite solution. You can purchase a simple test kit from Hach that will allow you to maintain that 2ppm. That is lower than most swimming pool kits will go. Note, I am not associated with Hach but do use a lot of their test equipment in the water industry.  - Unique dual purpose formula which both cleans and sterilises in one easy action
- Cleans the complete water system: tank, pipes, pumps, taps
- Eradicates bacteria, viruses, biofilm, algae and fungi
- For maximum results, simply soak and flush
- Powerful action without harming the components in the water system
- Proven in use world-wide for 3 decades
 - 100g Cleans tanks up to 90 litres
- 400g Cleans tanks up to 270 litres
- 4 kg Cleans tanks up to 2500 litres
- Dec 7, 2014
No, what was stated was 50 parts of chlorine to one million parts of water. Not 50 parts of Clorox. Clorox's active ingredient is sodium hypochlorite usually between 5-8% . In other words what we call bleach is not entirely chlorine. Chlorine is a fairly dangerous substance therefore you will not find it in a liquid state in any solution over 12% in the U.S. and that is an industrial strength commercial N.S.F. approved grade bleach. Most large water systems inject a chlorine gas into the drinking water with the very deadly gas located in a side building away from the plant operations and with alarms and remote shut downs associated within the chlorine building. Even then they will place a open bottle of ammonia near the door. As those substance come in contact a white cloud of smoke will provide a visible indicator of a leaking chlorine cylinder. So, doing the math to get one gallon of active chlorine out of what is marketed as clorox it will take about 14 gallons at 7% solution. So if you had a million gallon water tank it would take 14 X 50 = 700 gallons to make a 50ppm chlorine / water treatment. Both the 50 ppm shock type treatment and the 2 ppm maintenance are provided in the Rules for Safe Drinking Water. As with most things in life there are good and bad aspects of anything we do. I would not suggest the shock type treatment very often, it is usually not necessary except with a new tank. Chlorine is corrosive and may lead to an increase in lead or copper in the drinking water especially if you have an older boat that may have bronze, brass, or lead in the fixtures or plumbing. Given a 3 hour contact time between the small amount of chlorine added to a tank for maintenance and the water coming out if there is a residual (after contact) chlorine present even just a trace amount then there are no bad bacteria in the water. I will research the "Puriclean" product. I have not heard of it used in commercial water treatment facilities. Similar threads - Jun 1, 2024
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At least 12 invasive zebra mussels were found in aquatic moss balls for aquariums sold at a Renton wholesale aquarium company on Aug. 5. The mussels, which are native to freshwater bodies in Ukraine, are capable of causing significant infrastructural and environmental damage, said Becky Elder, spokesperson for the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. “We are trying, in every capacity, to make sure that these invasive species do not make it into Washington’s waters,” Elder said. Zebra mussels were introduced to the United States in the 1980s, brought over by transoceanic vessels that would empty their ballasts into the Great Lakes, said Cole Morrison, the invasive species program manager for the Idaho State Department of Agriculture. The water contained the microscopic larvae of the mussels, which are invisible to the naked eye, and they found no natural predators in America. “If you look at those states that have had them for 40 years or so, you’ll see — they say that you can drain the Great Lakes and walk along the bottom and never touch sand because they’re so thick on the bottom of the Great Lakes,” Morrison said. In 2021, the mussels found a new way to the states — by hitching a ride on Marimo moss balls found naturally in about four Ukrainian bodies of water, Morrison said. “They’re a kind of free floating algae that form into balls as they get pushed around by the currents of those four water bodies and form these really spherical shapes. So they’re really attractive,” Morrison said. “And for that reason, there was tons of them being sold.” Justin Bush, invasive species coordinator for WDFW, said keeping hydroelectric facilities running should the mussels contaminate them would cost Washington state $100 million a year. “The mussels are quite small and they basically continue growth on top of the previous generation. And so, thinking about a pipe over time, the dead mussels as well as the new generation on the top will close off pipes and stop the flow of water,” Bush said. “Thinking about small-diameter pipes in any sort of water infrastructure, that’s a recipe for disaster — the systems may not have been developed in a way that you can easily clean that out.” Morrison said the real worry is that someone would dump a tank with a contaminated moss ball. “They’re maybe tired of the upkeep of the aquarium, or they think they’re being nice and wanna let Nemo back into what they think is his natural environment, and take them down to the river and dump them in,” Morrison said. Elder said federal policies were implemented to try and limit the importation of infected Marimo moss balls. Morrison said that even if 90% of their annual offspring die, a single breeding pair of zebra mussels can result in the establishment of a septillion mussels within their 3- to 5-year life span. Their large numbers mean that they eat everything in the water that the bugs at the bottom of the food chain normally eat, which has cascading impacts on fish and wildlife populations. The result is a lake that some observers have described to Morrison as being clean and clear. “I always tell them that it’s less that it’s clean and clear, and more that it is sterile,” Morrison said. “And when you’re talking about a wild environment, sterile is bad. I want my kitchen table to be sterile, I don’t really want rivers and lakes and all that sort of stuff to be sterile.” Marimo moss balls in pet stores around Washington and Idaho are currently being inspected for the presence of zebra mussels, according to multiple news releases. Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife and Idaho State Department of Agriculture ask the public to inspect their aquariums if there is any chance of contamination. Zebra mussels can survive for around 23 days out of the water in proper conditions, WDFW watercraft inspector Derek de Haas said, so if they are found on a boat, they may still be alive. To dispose of mussels, the boat is first hosed down with 140-degree water to kill any that are still alive. Then, the shells are removed from the boats with 120-degree high-pressure water. The shells must be collected and disposed of afterward, as their DNA in a body of water can lead to false positives in tests for the mussels’ presence, de Haas said. Boats are then given a seal, which must stay on for 30 days. Zebra mussels on Marimo moss balls can be disposed of in a similar way — by boiling for a minute before throwing in the trash. Moss balls can also be decontaminated by freezing for 24 hours or soaking in white vinegar for 20 minutes before disposal , according to the Invasive Species of Idaho website. Hot water, a 24-hour salt soak or a diluted bleach mixture can be used to decontaminate the aquarium and accessories themselves. “It’s a fearful concern that we have that’s very real — that’s in essence kind of knocking at our door,” Elder said. “And we need to be on the front lines to continue to make sure that this doesn’t get into our local waterways.” Editor’s note: Due to a reporting error, the story incorrectly identified where the moss balls came from. The moss balls came from a wholesale aquarium company in Renton, not Petco. Most Read Local Stories- Arrest made in Seattle carjacking that killed 80-year-old dog walker
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  Mason 33 Used Boat Review Beneteau 311, Catalina 310 and Hunter 326 Used Boat Comparison Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review Cheoy Lee Clipper 36 & 42 Used Boat Review Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation Stopping Mainsheet Twist Working with High-Tech Ropes Getting a Clue for the Blown-Out Clew Monel Seizing Wire is Worth the Extra Cost Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair Ensuring Safe Shorepower Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box The Rain Catcher’s Guide Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate: Part 1 Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows? Mastering Precision Drilling: How to Use Drill Guides Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype? 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Our December 2013 tank-vent filter test found that after 30 months of testing, the only factor that strongly correlated to clumping tank solids was lubricating the head with vegetable oil or mineral oil. In tests, some of the deposits would not come off, even with a directed hose blast. Solid waste is mostly water, and as such, it dissolves in water quickly. Unless you have used oil in the head, your buildup is most likely from toilet paper or calcium carbonate deposits (the result of mixing salt water and uric acid), if you use seawater to flush. If the buildup has completely hardened, theres little hope for removing it, and you can either live with it or shop for a new holding tank. If the buildup is still sludgy, you have a few options. Perhaps the easiest fix-but one with a higher ick-factor-would be to empty the holding tank, flush it (and sanitation hoses) with fresh water, and then spray the inside of the tank with a high-pressure hose. This works best if your tank has an accessible inspection port like the holding tanks we reviewed in the February 2012 issue ; a hose spray wand may also make this easier. Do not use a drain cleaner in the sanitation system; it can cause more scale buildup and can damage plumbing parts. Holding tank maker Dometic/Sealand recommends that boat owners empty the tank, then fill it about halfway with fresh water, and add 8 ounces of a liquid, bleach-free, biodegradable laundry detergent to the water before getting underway, preferably for a few hours of sailing in choppy conditions. Sealand Communication Manager Patrick Snyder also suggested adding a large quantity of ice to the tank along with the detergent, to enhance the cleaning action while underway; ice should be added through the access port, if possible. To avoid future buildup and odors, follow the tank cleaning with healthy-head best practices: add water to the toilet bowl before any solids deposit is made; use only limited amounts of quick-dissolve or single-ply toilet paper (see PS June 2011 online ); regularly add a holding-tank treatment like the PS Recommended Odorlos or PS Best Choice Bactank T3 to the tank; lubricate the head per maker instructions, avoiding oils; be sure the tank is properly vented; flush the tank with fresh water every four to five pumpouts, or more often if you can. PS prefers the enzyme and biological (bacterial) tank treatments. Odorlos and Bactank T3 were among the top picks in our most recent tests (see PS December 2012) . Marine sanitation guru and author of Getting Rid of Boat Odors, Peggy Hall (via www.sailboatowners.com ) also recommends using Odorlos as a regular holding tank treatment. (The liquid version of Odorlos is the best-selling form, but cruisers may prefer the powder since it requires less storage space.) A bacterial-spore powder, Bactank T3 out-performed Odorlos in our tests. For more on marine heads and troubleshooting head odor, check out the PS ebook series Marine Sanitation Systems ( www.practical-sailor.com/books ). RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHORLeave a reply cancel reply. Log in to leave a comment Latest Videos The Perfect Family Sailboat! Hunter 27-2 – Boat Review Pettit EZ-Poxy – How to Paint a Boat The Boat From True Spirit – Sparkman & Stephens Top 5 Boat Hacks – Boat Maintenance Tips and TricksLatest sailboat review.  - Privacy Policy
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Can you put bleach in aluminum water tanks?- Thread starter Rick
- Start date Aug 29, 2006
- Forums for All Owners
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I've used a small dose of bleach before to freshen my water tank as Peggie the Headmistress as taught us, but those tanks were all plastic. Can bleach also be used in boats with aluminum tanks? I've heard that this is a no-no and that something like hydrogen peroxide should be used. Does anybody know for a fact? either will work Rick Either will work and lots of folks use bleach in aluminum tanks with no apparent ill effect. Having said that, bleach does react with the aluminum, even those with coated al tanks, and can lead to premature failure, particularly if one adds too much bleach. This isn't an issue of the majority opinion but rather simple chemistry. Peroxide solutions are safer for the tank(s) and actually provide a longer residual level of disinfection for a number of reasons not worth going into here. It also doesn't impart a bad smell or taste like chlorine does. The only real argument against using peroxide is that it is difficult to find in the proper concentration as the typical drug store variety is not concentrated enough to be effective, regardless of the quantity used. If you can find 26% peroxide solution, it's a viable alternative; otherwise, it's a moot point and chlorine bleach is your only option. Don  Peggie Hall HeadMistressAdding a little bleach to each fill is not a good idea regardless of whether your tanks are plastic OR metal, 'cuz it's also damaging to the rubber parts in the water pump and also hoses. But even though the solution used to recommission tanks is strong, it does no damage because it only stays in the tank for a few hours, and then is thoroughly flushed out.  welcome back, Peggy! nm H2O2 Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is corrosive to steel, iron, copper and its alloys, nickel, nickel-copper alloy, lead and silver. It is NOT corrosive to aluminum, certain aluminum alloys (e.g.aluminum-magnesium) and some stainless steels (316 stainless steel and austentic stainless steels). The degree of hazard associated with hydrogen peroxide depends on concentration. Drying of concentrated hydrogen peroxide on clothing or other combustible materials may cause fire. H2O2 may attack or ignite some forms of plastics, rubber, or coatings. Hydrogen Peroxide is a key component in a so-called “liquid bomb”, and may be on a terrorist watch list. - This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…
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With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. (Simpler way to calculate: 1 quart bleach/50 gal water tank capacity) 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled.
This calc is for 550 gal and the Hypo is 12.5%. I believe standard household bleach is 5%. So using the equation I get .667 # of hypochlorite or 16.5 oz at 12.5% multiply by 2.5 to get 5% solution requirement and get 46 oz. This is also a shock dosage at 200mg/l. max drinking water is 5mg/l with a minimum of 2 mg/l.
For treating water that is clear and chlorinated at the tap, 1 teaspoon of bleach per 50 gallons will provide a 2 ppm booster, the very most that should be needed. Chlorine aftertaste is the most common onboard water-quality complaint; however, chlorine at the tank can be efficiently removed with carbon filtration.
Mix the bleach within a 1-gallon container of water. This provides better mixing and reduces spot corrosion of aluminum tanks. Pour the solution (water/bleach) into the tank and fill the tank with potable water. If possible, allow some solution to escape though the vent. (If the vent is exterior, prevent any spillage into local waters.)
Drain the tank completely. Measure 1 teaspoon/gallon of household bleach (aluminum) or vinegar (plastic) into the tank and add fresh water until it's full. Let it sit for 24 hours to sterilize, then drain the water. Fill with fresh water and drain repeatedly until all the bleach/vinegar odor is gone.
To clean sailboat water tanks, the first step is to empty the tank and rinse it with fresh water. Next, mix a solution of 1 cup of bleach and 1 gallon of water and pour it into the tank. Allow the solution to sit in the tank for 1-2 hours and then rinse the tank thoroughly with fresh water. Finally, use a brush to scrub the inside of the tank ...
Use an eighth of a cup of bleach for each 10 gallons in the system; add the bleach to a gallon of fresh water and mix the solution. If the boat has aluminum water tanks, you may choose a non-chlorine sanitizing product. Pour the mixture into the water tank, and then fill the tank. Open all the faucets, and pump water through the entire system ...
Add bleach to the tanks, fill with water to the top (!), cap, and let sit a couple days. This kills every bit of mold in it. Drain. Use a garden hose and spray nozzle to wash the mold off the walls and baffles. Drain. Get as much of the particulates out as possible, flush thoroughly.
Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorite solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air ...
This is 1/8 cup of plain bleach (no fragrance) per 10 gallons. Multiply tank capacity (in liters) by 1.0; the result is the milliliters of bleach needed to sanitize the tank. Mix the proper amount of bleach in a 1-gallon container of water. This will provide better mixing and reduce spot corrosion of aluminum tanks.
Multiply liters of tank capacity by 1.0; the result is the milliliters of bleach needed to sanitize the tank. Mix the proper amount of bleach within a 1-gallon container of water. This will provide better mixing and reduce spot corrosion of aluminum tanks. Pour the solution (water/bleach) into the tank and fill the tank with potable water.
3. Measure out enough 5% bleach to make a 50 ppm solution in your tank. The cheapest and easiest way to sanitize your boat water tank is with household chlorine bleach. Use a 5% chlorine bleach product and pour enough into a bucket or other container to make a 50 ppm (parts per million) solution, based on the size of your tank.
Put a few gallons of water into the tank then add 1 quart Clorox or Purex household bleach (5-7% sodium hypochlorite solution ) per 50 gal water tank capacity. 2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled.
83 posts · Joined 2007. #1 · Feb 25, 2008. Our sailboat is 10 years old and we puta very small amount of clorox bleach in our stainless fresh water tanks then flushed with fresh water in attempt to clean them out. Months later we noticed, when inspecting interior of all 3 stainless tanks, that rust type bubbles are forming on the bottom seams ...
For cleaning, mix a chlorine-water solution using a quarter-cup (2 ounces) of Clorox or Purex household bleach per gallon of water; use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity. Then pour the mixture into the empty tanks, and fill them the rest of the way with potable water. Run water from each faucet or outlet until air has ...
2X 454 carbs w/ vDrives. I would do a vinegar flush and rinse, followed by a bleach flush and rinse. Cleaning vinegar is stronger and works a bit better and quicker. Don't leave either one in the system for more than a few hours before flushing. A rough boat ride with the chemicals will help clean up the tank.
Aug 8, 2021. #1. Reading Peggie's book, page 49 says 4 ounces mixed in a gallon and use one gallon for 5 gallons of water. If I am correct, that means 32 ounces of chlorine for 40 gallons. Practical Sailor suggests 1 tablespoon per 10 gallons or 4 tablespoons for 40 gallons. 4 tablespoons is 2 ounces. Many versions of this online.
1950's/60's while growing up on boats I learned a strong shot of bleach in water tank at every other fill up is good to keep things in order. To this day I add bleach every other fill up. In 77 gallon tank-age I pour in about a cup o' bleach. Water looks sparkling clean with slight bleach smell; never have I "flushed-out" boat water tanks/system.
To dispose of mussels, the boat is first hosed down with 140-degree water to kill any that are still alive. Then, the shells are removed from the boats with 120-degree high-pressure water.
Holding tank maker Dometic/Sealand recommends that boat owners empty the tank, then fill it about halfway with fresh water, and add 8 ounces of a liquid, bleach-free, biodegradable laundry detergent to the water before getting underway, preferably for a few hours of sailing in choppy conditions. Sealand Communication Manager Patrick Snyder also ...
Oct 9, 2006. #7. Hydrogen Peroxide. I use 1 oz. of store bought hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons of water.u000bI never have an algie problem and the water is safe to use to wash whatever I need to wash. I use bottled water for drinking, but you can use your tank water for brushing teeth, etc.
Aug 29, 2006. #2. either will work. Ricku000bEither will work and lots of folks use bleach in aluminum tanks with no apparent ill effect. Having said that, bleach does react with the aluminum, even those with coated al tanks, and can lead to premature failure, particularly if one adds too much bleach.u000bu000bThis isn't an issue of the ...