restoring sailboat teak

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Restoring Teak

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There's nothing prettier than teak on a boat, but it requires some upkeep. Here are some tips and products to help keep it looking great.

The natural, unfinished teak on the sailboat above is a beauty. But with brightwork varnished and the deck oiled (above), she sparkles! Here you can see the difference in a teak deck that's been sanded (top) and unsanded (bottom).

Teak maintenance is a love-hate affair for most boat owners. We love the warm, golden glow of a freshly cleaned deck, but not so much the elbow grease required to keep it so. Let's take a look at some cleaning tips that can help bring your tired teak back to life.

The Versatility Of Teak

Due to its resistance to deterioration, rot, and insects, teak is one of the few things onboard that allows a boater to decide the amount of effort they want to spend maintaining it. Many prefer the golden glow and accentuated grain highlighted by properly oiled or varnished teak deck or trim, viewing the additional work required to achieve it as time well spent. Others take the more laid-back approach of letting it attain a natural silver-gray color, safe in the knowledge that less than 1/100 of an inch below that weathered-gray look lies beautiful, oily wood (just be aware that thinner pieces of teak trim can become severely sun-dried and brittle or crack if neglected for too long).

Regardless of your chosen maintenance philosophy, at some point a reason will arise to give your teak a thorough cleaning, be it spring commissioning, selling the boat, or readying the wood for oiling or varnishing. Ironically, cleaning is when teak is most likely to sustain damage due to the use of harsh chemicals and overaggressive or incorrect cleaning methods. Improper cleaning with pressure washers, stiff bristle brushes, or harsh chemicals can remove the soft, lighter-colored grain of the wood, creating a washboard effect. Once that occurs, these ridges (which more readily trap dirt) can only be removed by sanding, which again removes more wood in a vicious cycle of owners loving their teak to death.

Teak-Cleaning Tips

Most teak dies an early death, not from neglect, but from improper cleaning by well-meaning owners. Although you should always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for any cleaner or product being used, here are eight general tips on proper teak care that will serve you well in all situations.

• Use the mildest cleaner possible to get the job done.
• Always wear recommended protective equipment (e.g., rubber gloves, goggles) when handling teak cleaners.
• Protect adjacent areas and finishes while cleaning. Gel teak cleaners have an advantage in this regard, providing you more control during application on horizontal or even vertical surfaces. Teak cleaners can damage anything from gelcoat and paint to anodized aluminum and even chrome fittings. Wet adjacent areas with water prior to cleaning and keep them wet, being sure to rinse all areas thoroughly (especially those being cleaned) as any residue will continue to eat away at whatever surface it remains on.
• When cleaning teak, scrub across the grain of the wood with a 3M Scotch-Brite pad. A soft, polypropylene bristle brush will do in a pinch — just remember to scrub lightly and never with the grain.
• Badly worn teak should be lightly sanded to smooth the wood's surface. While sanding also removes some of the wood, a smooth surface is easier to properly maintain and can increase the life of teak by exposing less wood to the elements and preventing the grain from trapping dirt and airborne contaminants.
• Keep teak wet while cleaning. An overcast or even drizzly day is better than a blazing sunny day, as it helps prevent the area from drying out.
• Use two-part cleaners as a last resort only, and then use sparingly.
• Keep cleaned and/or treated teak covered if possible, to prevent UV light and weather damage.

The Teak Cleaning Enigma: Less Is More

A quick look at any well-stocked chandlery will show there's no shortage of teak cleaners. One-part, two-part, pastes, powders, gels — the list seems endless. But which one to use? Simplify selection by remembering your teak cleaning prime directive is to start with the mildest cleaning product that looks like it has a chance of success, then work your way up (as required) to stronger cleaners that can do the job with as little damage to the wood as possible.

One-part cleaners tend to be less harsh than two-part products, but may require longer dwell times (the time required to work after the product is applied), multiple applications, or simply lack the cleaning power of their two-part brethren, especially when faced with ultra-gnarly teak.

Two-part cleaners should be considered the "nuclear option" of teak cleaning due to the harsh chemicals and toxic nature of most. Sure, they can clean even the nastiest piece of teak, but they do so by removing some of it in the process. They should be used sparingly and only after milder one-part cleaners have been tried. The first part of a two-part cleaner contains the primary cleaning agent, while the second part (depending on the product) may provide additional cleaning power, contain a wood brightener (to lighten and impart a more uniform color), or simply act as a neutralizing agent for the first part.

Powering off the grime on teak decks with a cleaner and brush. Remember: Less is more.

Other factors to consider when selecting a teak cleaner include ease of application, harshness, dwell time, and "greenness" or environmental concerns. For example, products that have to be mixed require more preparation and time than one that can be applied directly from the container. The same is true for a cleaner that requires a 20-minute dwell time verses one a user can start scrubbing on immediately. On the flip side, many users may be perfectly content to wait that extra 20 minutes if the cleaner is milder on both crew and boat (meaning they don't have to remove teak trim due to worries about damage to adjacent gelcoat or painted surfaces), cheaper, or more environmentally friendly.

While teak cleaners are typically used in preparation for varnishing or oiling, most commercially available teak cleaners are simply too harsh for regular daily or weekly cleaning. For routine cleaning you'll find that sudsy ammonia or a solution of water and mild detergent (such as Original Pine-Sol cleaner) will compare well to most teak cleaners while being a lot easier on the wood, surrounding surfaces, and the environment.

On The Shelf

Here's a sample market scan of both one- and two-part cleaners.

Amazon's One-Step Teak Cleaner

Claims to easily remove dirt, rust stains, fish blood, and other sorts of grease and grime from weathered teak. It's billed as an acid-free formula that won't harm fiberglass or damage the teak's soft grain, while enhancing the natural texture of the wood. Application instructions: Wet area to be cleaned with fresh- or saltwater (including adjacent areas that the cleaner may also contact), then scrub or agitate as needed with a soft scrubbing pad. Rinse with water, then repeat if necessary. Safety precautions include wearing protective gloves and washing hands thoroughly after use. The manufacturer recommends following with an application of Amazon's Teak Prep (a brightener) followed by a good oiling with Amazon's Teak Oil. 32 oz., $15.99 | MDRAmazon.com

West Marine One-Step Teak Cleaner & Brightener

Advertised for cleaning lightly soiled teakwood surfaces. For badly stained or weathered teak, West Marine's Heavy Duty Teak Cleaner Kit is recommended. Product literature states that it won't harm wood and that it removes stains, oils, and so on, while restoring teak to its natural color. It also states its intended for use on teak wood only and that it may damage gelcoat, paint, and metal surfaces.

Application instructions: Spray teak with water, then apply cleaner, allowing it to penetrate for 2 to 3 minutes. Scrub the wood with a soft-bristled deck brush, keeping the surface wet while cleaning. Rinse the wood thoroughly with water. Keep all adjacent surfaces wet with water and immediately rinse thoroughly if accidental contact occurs. West Marine recommends following up with its Golden Teak Oil. 32 oz., $22.99 | WestMarine.com

Iosso Teak Cleaner

Comes as a powder (a 16-ounce jar makes 4 gallons of cleaner) that, per product labeling, safely removes dirt, black algae, and mildew stains in one easy step without harsh chemicals. Iosso states that its product emits no harmful vapors; is biodegradable and nontoxic; won't harm fabrics or colors, vinyls, canvas carpeting, metals, paints, fiberglass, or plastic surfaces; and is gentle to skin (although product labeling recommends avoiding prolonged contact). Application instructions: Mix up a batch of cleaner using the provided measuring scoop — one scoop makes a quart, four scoops a gallon, and so on, when combined with water. The instructions state to use a plastic container, mix only what you'll need for the job, and dispose of any unused solution afterward. Thoroughly mix until the powder is completely dissolved (warm water is recommended for best results), then apply the solution on any horizontal or vertical surface to be cleaned. Cool surfaces with water prior to application if hot. Let stand for 10 minutes or longer while keeping the area wet with solution (thoroughly brushing it into the wood) then rinse with water. Extremely weathered wood may require a second application. 16 oz., $15.25 | Iosso.com

Amazon's Quicki II 2-Part Teak Cleaner

Per the manufacturer, this cleaner is environmentally safe (contains no caustics or acids and is non-butyl) and won't harm fiberglass. Part 1 takes care of the deeper stains, grease and grime, while Part 2 follows through with surface cleaning and brightening agents. Each kit includes a teak scrubber for easier teak cleaning. Application instructions: Wet the area to be cleaned, then apply Part 1 full strength and agitate with provided scrubber; let sit for 10 minutes, then rinse. Apply Part 2, agitate for final dirt and grease removal, let set for 15 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Follow-up manufacturer's recommended product is Amazon's Golden Teak Oil. 2 x 32 oz., $33.30 for set | MDRAmazon.com

West Marine Heavy Duty Teak Cleaner Kit

Advertised for cleaning badly stained or weathered teak. Step 1 chemically attacks stained teak, while step 2 neutralizes step 1. Instructions state the product will not harm seam compounds, however, the label also says it may damage gelcoat, paint, and metal surfaces.

Application instructions: The manufacturer recommends wearing rubber gloves and eye protection when using this kit. First, wet the surface to be cleaned as well as the surrounding areas (including hull and deck), then apply Step 1 Teak Cleaner. Spread and agitate lightly with a synthetic deck brush. As the area darkens (in 3 to 5 minutes), scrub lightly. Rinse thoroughly with water, then apply Step 2 and spread evenly with a deck brush. Agitate lightly, then as the deck turns a light golden tone, hose off all surfaces thoroughly (including the hull). 2 quarts, $47.99 | WestMarine.com

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Frank Lanier

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Capt. Frank Lanier is a SAMS-accredited marine surveyor with over 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industries. He’s an author, public speaker, and multiple award-winning journalist whose articles on boat maintenance, repair, and seamanship appear regularly in numerous marine publications worldwide. Contact him via his YouTube channel “Everything Boats with Capt. Frank Lanier” or at captfklanier.com.

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Better Sailing

How to Restore Teak on a Boat

There is nothing that can make or break the look of a sailboat more than the look of the exterior teak. But teak isn’t a maintenance-free boat surface that can be ignored or neglected for a long time. Though teak doesn’t rot, it can crook, check or look dull if proper care is not provided. Keep in mind that this article is not about deck restoration, so, we will not going to get into applying new Sikaflex on your deck, etc. 

Teak is amazingly flexible and can be made new again even after a lot of rough use. Teak with grey weathering rarely extends far below the surface of the wood. Instead of tedious sanding and scrapping to restore the weathered surface, a standard chemical cleaning is enough to bring back the teak from its worst condition to nearly its original appearance. Chemical cleaners can clean almost the worst off weathered teak.

Though, chemical cleaning may be tough on wood. Many chemical cleaners depend upon an acid or a caustic to bleach and clean the wood’s surface. But sometimes these chemical cleaners wear away the surface gradually. To achieve the best results, you should never allow your teak to get to that condition where you have to take these drastic measures. However, if things happened and there is a need for extreme cleaning, make an effort to keep it clean moving forward. 

Keep in mind that this article we will not going to get into applying new Sikaflex on your deck, etc. The article is coming though and will link it here as soon as it’s available.

If the teak of your boat got dark brown because of age or got weathered grey due to negligence, then the first thing necessary is to clean it thoroughly. The severity of the discoloration of your teak will tell the restoration method required. Since cleaners contain caustic and acids that are tough on wood, you have to use a mild cleaner as less as possible to do the job. The value of a mild scrub using a soft cleaner is that it’s gentle for the teak. As it is more probable to have soft cleaners in your boat, always try this method before applying drastic measures. 

The mildest cleaner for teak could be a common purpose domestic powdered soap. A concentrated powdered cleaner with vigorous scrubbing using a soft brush will clean the teak, which is just dirty. Scrub it as lightly as you can and also keep in mind that you have to scrub across the grain. Every time the teak is scrubbed, softer wood is removed, which eventually causes a rough surface that elevates the grain. Using a scrubbing brush regularly to scrub the grain, makes it weak and rough.

First of all, try to wet down the teak with fresh water, then clean it with a detergent solution. After that rinse it with water, then leave it to get dry for some time. If the teak’s wood gets clean, even a light tan, then you are in luck. Otherwise, you will need to use a powerful cleaner. 

Pro-Tip:  You can also use the same washing machine power that you use to clean your clothes. I am talking about the powered detergents with the small grains in them. Those will actually help scrub the wood better because the granules will get into the teak. The best way is to sprinkle it directly on the teak instead of using a bucket and then doing it. However, you are looking for better results the following options could be better for you.

One-Part Cleaners

The next step is to use “one-part cleaners” made explicitly for teak. It can be liquid or powdered. Most cleaners consist of a mild and abrasive acid-like oxalic acid or phosphoric acid. These acids are more efficient in lightening the surface of the wood than a simple detergent. Most of the household cleaners have oxalic acid. You should take precautions while using these cleaners, which contain acids. 

Even a badly weathered wood of teak can be cleaned using “one-part cleaners”. After drying the wood, it should come out as light tan. After cleaning one time, if some areas remain grey, repeat cleaning will do the trick. Still, if the wood of the teak is discolored or mottled, then you have to use “Two-part cleaners”.

I recommend this teak wood cleaner from Star Bright , it is soft on the teak but gets the job done. Make sure to get a Scrub Pad and a Stainless Teak Scrub too so you can get the best result as easy as possible. Here is a video on how to do it properly:

Two-Part Cleaners

These cleaners are more powerful, but they are hard on the teak. They are potent acids and caustics that can do a fantastic job of brightening and cleaning the teak. But it should be handled with care to avoid harm to adjoining surfaces. Also, surrounding surfaces, whether varnish or paint, should not be tainted by these cleaners. Continuous flushing of surrounding surfaces with fresh water among cleaning is usually sufficient, but covering off freshly varnished or painted surfaces will be more efficient.

There are slight differences in the guidelines for different “Two-part cleaners”, but the common principles are described below:

• Wet down the teak
• Apply “one-part cleaner”, dispersing and gently scrubbing with a soft brush
• When the surface of the teak is a muddy brown, uniform wet, apply “Two-part cleaner”, dispersing with clean stiffed brush
• Apply and disperse the acid required to turn teak into a uniform tan
• Wash it off thoroughly and then let it dry completely

Most commonly, the “two-part cleaner” is used twice as the first to obtain a uniform bright color. So it would be an excellent idea to buy an extra bottle of acid in case it’s needed. Also do not wash off the brown muddy surface of teak, unless the directives require it, after treating it with caustic. Furthermore, neutralizing the acid will reduce the problems.

This is the best 2-Part Cleaner made from TotalBoat and below is a video on how to use it. For large surface areas you might also want to get a get a large deck brash with a handle just to make the job easier.

Preparing for Finishing

A recently cleaned teak is a pleasure to witness, but the teak won’t remain fresh, light, and clean for a long time if proper finish is not applied. The teak’s surface will start to oxidize as soon as it dries. The earlier you complete the treatment after scrubbing, the better. 

Teak consists of grain that differs in stiffness, even in the same portion of the wood. Cleaning it with detergent may erode the softer parts of the teak’s grain, leaving ranges of firmer grain. The abnormality of such surface merely increases the speed at which the teak goes dull again.

If the surface of the teak that you have cleaned is plywood, there is a good chance that thorough polishing the teak, the surface may go right off from side to side, exposing the coating of the veneer, effectively ruining the piece. On the usual fiberglass boat, plywood or veneered components are the companionway hatch tops, drop boards, and occasionally cockpit soles and seats. Before polishing any part, inspect them cautiously to understand whether they are veneer or solid lumber. 

Polish the uneven grain of severely weathered teak once it is clean.

Decks are typically solid lumber, so they can create problems. If the flooring is less than half inch dense, and has beavered fastenings, polishing the grain edges will sand away sufficient solid to sand from side to side or release the bungs, revealing the fastenings. Even if the grain of teak is on fixed teak surfaces, you will be better off living with a clean uneven surface instead of opening the “Pandora’s Box” trying to make a perfectly flat surface.

On other hard teak objects such as toerails, dorade boxes, and handrails, thorough scraping of the washed surface, before applying it with sealer may produce an attractive surface. Don’t attempt to refurbish grey teak and badly weathered teak by scraping before cleaning it as I described above. There is a chance that you may quickly learn that discouraging quantity of scraping is necessary, and you will use chemical cleaners. Polishing both before and after the treatment is just a waste of effort, and may eradicate more wood. Teak with noticeable surface abnormalities would definitely take an eternity to scrap out to obtain an even surface. While cleaning with chemicals will swiftly lighten up even the inmost grain or gouges defects. Also, wait till the scrubbed teak is completely dry before polishing or applying teak covering.

Polishing scrubbed teak isn’t always needed. Mainly polishing is necessary if the teak’s surface needs to be preserved with oil covering instead of using a gloss polish like varnish. Granted, flawlessly smooth teak’s surface is more uniform in color. From a merely practical point of view, irregularities are insignificant except in the case of simplified scrubbing. Unless you plan to put the effort needed to preserve your teak’s surface between main cleanings, polishing the teak’s surface smooth is just a waste of your time. The chemical cleaning may recur the grain of the teak raising cycle, needing another rubbing.

If you are keen to keep your teak up, a good scraping will improve the wood’s form. The safest instrument for general smoothing is the high-speed sander like the “Makita XOB01Z” or any other small sander. I just like this one because it’s cordless, portable, and durable. It is also made by Makita, and I have great experiences with the brand. Inexpensive, slow-speed, and heavy sanders must be sidestepped. They leave revealing twirl marks on the teak’s surface that are emphasized by the finish. Also never use the sander on the surface of the teak to be scrapped bright.

The same is the case for a belt sander. A belt sander is maybe the most effective tool for leveling flat and large surfaces. But can also do some painful and permanent damage if the person using this tool is inexperienced. For hatches and decks of hard lumber, belt sander may be the solution, only if you’re comprehensively experienced with this equipment.

When doing power sanding, remember to cover surrounding areas of gelcoat. Just lightly touching the refined gelcoat surface with the sander will damage it. This same instruction applies to manual sanding. Remove the masking tape instantly after the completion of sanding. Even just leaving tape overnight on the exterior surface may make it difficult for you to remove. 

The adhesive residue could be removed with the mild solvent like alcohol and gentle rubbing with a rough cloth. Many teak coverings are easily put with polyfoam brush.

Remove dirt from the surface with a vacuum cleaner, after sanding. If electricity isn’t available, just sweep thoroughly with a large paintbrush or dusting brush. Obviously, you do not need to sacrifice your finest paintbrush. The cheapest stiffen brush will do just fine.

Applying Finish

The last step in restoring the surface of teak is the application of a sealer or coating to preserve for a long time the look of freshly installed wood. Your preference should be a covering that doesn’t blacken the wood. A good idea would be to look nearby boats whose teak looks good to you, then ask the owners about the products which they use.

No teak polish lasts for very long. To get the best results, monthly use of coating is needed, with good cleaning before putting on a fresh coat. You’re kidding yourself if you think a once-a-year treatment will keep your teak looking good. Don’t try to use domestic type equipment oils for teak. They may not stand against the weather.

Whatever teak covering you utilize, be wary of smearing it. Splattered teak covering will not look good when it’s put on fiberglass. However, it unavoidably blackens with time, leaving marks that look as ugly as varnish marks, and are hard to eradicate. Clean up these spills and overruns straightaway with any rag dunked in spirits like alcohol unless the manufacturer indicates an alternative solvent. Covering tape isn’t particularly efficient in defending surfaces from teak oil or varnish, as the thickness of most coverings is so thin that they just drain under the edge of the tape. The solution to this problem is careful use and thorough cleaning.

Depending on the look that you want to give to your boat’s teak you can get some standard teak oil from Star Bright for a matte look or if you want to go for a high-gloss varnish you can get this product made from TotalBoat .

Also, to avoid splatter and oil marks on the teak, the best way to apply the finish is with a foam brush . They are cheap and give the best result with lowest effort.

Maintaining

Your work is not done when the final coat of finish is applied. Teak requires constant attention to make it look good at all times. When a boat is used in saltwater, repeated wash downs with freshwater will definitely extend the lifespan of the covering. But, constant interaction with saltwater will likely decrease it. Highly traffic places like the teak cockpit will need the most care of all. Although they are easy to brush and retreat, sanding isn’t always desirable.

How to Restore Teak on a Boat – Conclusion

I know it seems like a lot of work. That clarifies why the exterior teak surface on many boats looks so dirty. It takes less effort than preserving a varnished teak surface. If you think you need varnished teak, first of all, try to maintain a freshly oiled surface just for a year and revisit the idea then.

Few things look better on a boat, mostly a white fiberglass sailboat than a well preserved exterior teak. A person who neglects teak wood may also be the same person who hardly replaces engine oil, and who hardly troubles himself to place the sail protections after a sail when he assumes he is going to sail again tomorrow. So, if you are looking for a sailboat to buy, remember that a clean and neat exterior probably means a well-maintained boat overall.  

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Restore Your Exterior Teak to Better Than New

Is your topside brightwork weathered, worn, and sorely in need of refinishing? If so, this is one project that you’ve probably been putting off but you know it needs to be done. The job isn’t particularly difficult or expensive, it just takes plenty of time to do it right and to get good results. But after it’s done, it can be relatively maintenance free for years to come while looking stunning.

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my  full disclosure .

Refinishing anything is a tedious, messy undertaking to do well whether it’s furniture or a sailboat. But the results are very gratifying when you get to the end. By the way, go over to my  interior teak restoration  project if that’s on your to-do list.

Who knows what evil lurks beneath your teak?

Begin by removing all the exterior teak trim pieces. That sounds simple and it should be, but it can actually be the hardest part of this project. Hopefully, you’re not so unfortunate that a previous owner used 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive when they last refinished the wood. It does a really good job at being an adhesive! You might need to literally cut the pieces off the boat by working a sharp putty knife under the length of each piece together with a lot of careful pulling, prying, twisting, and patience.

Be aware that parts can be so glued to the fiberglass that they can pull off some of the gel coat with it. For your own sake and the sake of anyone that will ever have to work on your boat, don’t use 5200 on any parts that will ever have to be separated. Use the more forgiving 4200 formula instead if you must. Better yet, use Butyl tape , which makes a waterproof seal, never hardens completely, and makes disassembly much easier.

The next step is to strip off what is left of the old finish. If your brightwork was last finished with varnish, I haven’t found a chemical stripper yet that works any better, faster, cleaner, or greener than a heat gun and a sharp putty knife. Old finish comes off easily to reveal the sun bleached, weathered, and mildewed wood underneath. Use sandpaper to clean off the last bit of finish, damaged wood, and to smooth out deep scratches and chips.

Bleaching or “Is that your teak’s natural color?”

After you get down to solid, useful wood, the coloring might be uneven and some mildew might remain in the wood’s pores. Bleaching will take care of both problems but don’t use laundry bleach.

Teak oil works miracles

Time to varnish, finally

To make it easier to varnish all sides of the pieces at the same time, see my tips on Simple jigs for varnishing parts .

Apply the first coat of varnish thinned with the manufacturer’s recommended thinner by 50%, followed by one coat thinned 25%, one coat thinned 10%, and two coats unthinned. This technique makes the varnish soak into the wood and fills the grain for a smoother finish. Thick varnishes can be tricky to work with unthinned when they are the consistency of molasses. It helps to warm it double boiler-style over a hot plate.

Lightly sand with a maroon Scotch-Brite pad in between each coat except before the last coat. For that one, wait two weeks for the varnish to completely cure before sanding with 220 grit sandpaper and then apply the last coat. Wipe everything with a tack cloth before each coat. For a Catalina 22, it can take all of two pints of varnish for the hand rails, hatch rails, weather board, crib boards, the companionway trim inside and out, and the winch cover panel.

Depending on the weather, it can take weeks for the varnish to cure completely so wait before reinstalling the pieces and don’t take on this project if you plan on using the boat soon after.

The edges of the crib boards wear first and are the places most likely for water to seep in and ruin them. So after the varnish has cured, mask off each edge about 1/4″ on the front and back of each board and brush a coat of slightly thickened epoxy on the edges. This gives them a hard coating that seals them completely and will protect them for many years to come. Just be careful to not build up the thickness so much that the boards don’t fit together anymore.

The fun part

Reattaching the parts is a downhill run. Just reverse the steps you used to remove them. Use Butyl tape at every joint between wood and fiberglass for a watertight seal.

Then stand back and admire a job well done!

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58 thoughts on “ restore your exterior teak to better than new ”.

Where did you get your cylinder lock and lift ring? Is it a marine part of something meant for general outdoor use?

I got the lock from Advantage Marine Supply on eBay but the same thing is available from several online retailers.

Something else to mention: due to the length of the cylinder relative to the thickness of the front of the hatch, the tang on the lock isn’t flush with the inside of the hatch. There’s about a half inch gap that would make it easier to break into the cabin. I made up the difference with a small block of teak epoxied behind where you see the four hasp screws in the pictures. Still, if someone really wanted in, the could force the hatch open. The lock isn’t as stout as the original hasp. You might also consider replacing the tang with a longer and/or stronger one so that it wouldn’t bend as easily.

The main reasons that I installed the cylinder is because we kept hitting our heads on the lock when the hatch is closed but the crib boards were out of the companionway. Maybe you keep your lock on the hatch too but cracked like we did so that it doesn’t get misplaced. This lock also prevents you from accidentally locking the cabin with the keys inside. Been there, done that. You can’t close this lock from the outside without the key, so problem solved. Plus, it just makes for a better looking installation, I think.

Hope that helps!

Ever windward, $tingy

Love the look of that lock, too. I used to keep my lock on the hasp also when not being used, but have since moved it so as to avoid the scars that are possible from banging forehead into it.

One thing I’ll point out about having a lock requiring a key is the obvious potential to lose the key. I solved that issue by installing a lock that uses a 4 digit combination. Never a lost key now.

OK…so I have been “thinking” about (or shoudl I say putting off) doing my teak on my Cat 25. After reading this post last weekend, it motivated me to start mine this weekend. I love the work you did on this and I am hoping mine turns out. I started with the tiller handle and pop top handle to see how difficult this is going to be and I must say it isnt as bad as I had been thinking. I have to wait till the weather clears up a bit to remove all of the other pieces now that I know its fairly easy. Using the heat gun to remove the old finish was the best tip!! Thanks! It makes it so much easier then using chemical or mechanical stripping means. That was the part I was dreading, dealing with the stripping and thats why I was putting it off, but the heat gun made the stuff peel right off with the putty knife. Thanks for the tip!! Great site! Some of the things you have on here are stuff I already have done or on the bucket list for my boat.

I’m glad the tip helped you to get over the hump of procrastination with your teak. I know too well what that’s like.

Now that you know it won’t be a major chore, you should be able to work through it at a pretty good clip. When the oil and/or varnish go on and you see it come alive again, you’ll be anxious to get it finished.

When you get done, leave another comment back here to let us know how it worked out!

Sure will. I already have the oil on the two parts I started with, going to let that dry for few days before proceeding with the varnish

How is the edge treatment holding up? Sounds like a really good idea, the edges are where mine show the most wear. Did you put the epoxy on after the varnish or before? I now have two of my crib boards sanded down and working on the 3rd.

It’s holding up really well so far, Mike. I’m glad I did it. In fact, if anything, the trim channels that they sit in are getting more wear than the boards now. I might give their wearing surfaces a coat or two of unthickened epoxy for good measure. Good luck on your boards!

Stingy, great information and website. I just finished up redoing my teak utilizing your method of support the pieces in a form and on footings allowing all sides to be done at once. Thanks, Richie

Glad to hear this site helped you!

My brother is a career private megayacht captain 100ft plus life-of-the-rich-and-famous kinda yachts. He turned me on to Petite Captains Varnish. Its amazing in that you get a glass like finish with seriously less coats of varnish. On the yachts he does not stop till there is no grain to be felt in the varnish, sand and apply repeat till the surface looks like glass. Captains goes on very thick and flows beautifully with great surface tension. Apply till you get the surface you want then hit it with 600 wet or dry and do the “money coat” an extremely thin whetting of the surface just to gloss the surface. That’s how the pros do it…

I’ve heard others who like Captain’s. I may have to try it on my next project. Thanks!

Stingy: great website, very helpful.

In this article you said: “For the varnish itself, I chose Epifanes Clear Varnish. Every owner who has done this job seems to have their own personal favorite finish. I don’t have one yet, so ask me in a few years if I chose wisely.”

So, may I ask – did you choose wisely?

Hi, Michael

It’s been a few years now and the finish is holding up really well. It still looks new and wet but that’s to be expected since up to now, I’ve kept my boat under cover when it wasn’t sailing. If I had to do it over again tomorrow, I’d pick the same finish.

But any finish is going to look great when it’s that protected. However, we recently moved and starting this year, my boat will be in the water 5-6 months of the year so I’ll be watching to see how it holds up to more exposure to the elements.

Ask me again in a few more years 🙂

Great article. Have all the exterior teak off my Catalina 25, and it’s all sanded. Getting ready for the oxalic treatment. Was wondering if anyone had a resource for the cylinder lock assembly that replaced the original (ugly) hasp setup? Thanks

Here’s a link to it on Amazon .

Wow, just beautiful work.

We have been looking at the teak on our boat for a few years now, but our biggest stumbling block has been the holes where the screws go. Most of the plugs are either lost or cracked, there are multiple diameters (none of which fit exactly) that we need, and I don’t know of a good way to get a plug perfect in height so it will fit and work once the teak is in place again. Any advice?

Hello Gretchen,

Unless you need to replace the screws, you shouldn’t remove the plugs. They are just to hide and protect the screw heads from the elements. Just remove the nuts and washers on the underside and pull the handrails up leaving the screws intact. Refinish the wood and replace in the reverse order.

If you do need to remove a screw for some reason or replace a damaged plug, carefully drill out as much of the plug as you can without enlarging the hole. A little hand carving might be necessary to get it all. Replacement plugs are available from most marine suppliers. Here’s a link to various sizes on Amazon. Glue the replacement plug in place, trim it flush, sand smooth, and finish as usual.

Thanks, I definitely don’t want the extra work of replacing plugs. Unfortunately we’re missing a few already, so I am stuck with at least some of them needing to be replaced. Thank you so much for the advice! Are there any tools better or worse for trimming the replacement down as close as possible without (accidentally) damaging the teak next to it?

If you have woodworking tools or know a woodworker who can help you, use a fine tooth handsaw to trim off the excess plug to within 1/8″ of the handrail. Then use a sharp chisel or utility knife to round over the top of the plug almost flush to the handrail. Use two or three grits of sandpaper starting with the coarsest to sand the plugs smooth before finishing. Teak is very hard so use very sharp tools for the best results. It will also take more sanding than you might expect. But that’s why it’s used on boats, because it’s so durable (and beautiful)!

A Forstner bit is what I use to drill out the plugs. I also use a plug cutter to make my own plugs from some scrap teak I have around. Put a little glue in the hole, tap in the plug, then cut flush with a flush cut hand saw and sand to any curve. You will have to touch up the finish in those areas, but it is actually fairly easy to do.

That’s the right way to do it, Chris, IF you need to get a tool on the screw heads or replace the screws.

Many owners think that they have to do that just to take the handrails on or off for refinishing. In my experience, they come off just fine by removing the nuts from the underside without drilling. That is, so long as the heads are still glued solidly under the original plugs and don’t spin when you try to remove the nuts.

Thanks for your comment! $tingy

Hi, I leave my Catalina 22 out in the elements about six or seven months out of the year. It seems that some people suggest not varnishing wood in that case. I would like to varnish as you have. Do you have a prediction as to whether it will hold up and look nice for years to come? Maybe that’s asking the impossible. 🙂

Going unfinished is the lowest maintenance option but that means your brightwork becomes dullwork and not everybody appreciates it, especially for such beautiful and rare wood as teak. If you finish your teak like I describe in this post, it will last a long time if you maintain it. The varnish has built-in UV inhibitors but you should repair all deep nicks and scratches as soon as possible before moisture gets under the surrounding finish and causes it to blister or peel. When the finish gets worn enough, a fresh topcoat applied with the parts still on the boat may be needed to restore it to like new again. Even with that, you will need to refinish it all again eventually if you keep the boat that long.

Thanks for your question, $tingy

Wonderful! Thanks for giving me a sense of courage to take it on. I’m looking forward to making it look pretty (and keeping it that way with the varnish!) It is amazing how quickly the nice look faded last time I did the teak… looking forward to seeing the beauty last!

Hi, I had been in the coatings industry for decades. I would suggest tenting and adding heat to reduce your stated weeks for individual coats on the wood. While I now live in Florida, we lived in cold country for 20 years where climate control was just part of the job doing coating projects. Makes life more FUN.

Thanks for your great articles. We are newbies with a 1979 Catalina 27 as our boot camp boat. You might want to look at Belzona videos on YouTube. I am retired from sales but willing to help with projects.

Best regards, Jim in Satellite Beach.

Hi there – I really enjoy your website – it is terrific. I looked at your post about bedding down with butyl (sounds like a terrible movie) and I understand the concept when it applies screws and bolts. But with something like the companionway hatch rail do you put a string of butyl tape under the entire length of the rail? Or do you just put small “cheerios” around each of the screws? Thanks kindly for your help, Jon in Nova Scotia

Great question. For the hatch rails and trim, in addition to donuts around the fasteners, I do apply a string of butyl near the edges all around the underside of the pieces to seal them as well. Otherwise, water can get trapped under the wood and work its way under the finish. From there, it can spread and loosen the finish all over the parts. The same can happen from dings and scratches in the exposed finish so it’s a good idea to touch up the finish when you can. Sealing the edges also keeps out dirt and bio matter that can breed mildew and moss.

Hope you’re enjoying a great spring season up there in Nova Scotia and you’re getting out on the water soon if not already! $tingy

I do not see how you were able to get all of your supplies for under $60. Did you steal the Epiphanes =^? 2 qts is +$70. Other than that, this is a pretty good tutorial on how to finish exterior woodwork. I picked up a copy of “Brightwork: The Art of Finishing Wood” a while back.One of the tips she gives on dried out teak is once the wood is cleaned and bleached, wet sand with pure tung oil to create a sawdust paste that will fill in the grain and reinvigorate the oily properties of the teak.

For boats like a C-22, two quarts of varnish would last a lifetime. I used most of one 500 ML can for this project, which can be found for under $30. The oxalic acid crystals were only a few bucks and I already had some teak oil from the Refinish Your Interior Teak to Better Than New project. The hatch lock was the highest cost item but is optional. The rest of the supplies, I already had on hand as well: epoxy, sandpaper, tack cloths, etc. Mostly what you need for this project is plenty of time to do it well.

Good tip on making your own filler paste. Severely neglected teak can be pretty rough and sanding down to solid wood can remove too much material.

Thanks for your comments, $tingy

Your excellent teak story arrived today just a week late as I am just finishing off the job! Today I will applying the 4th coat of varnish on my teak tiller. It had been oiled (many times over) with olive oil and had gone dirty and sticky. Won’t do that again! While oiled teak is my favourite “look” I decided to use varnish this time. Three years on and the grab rails still look fine, so using the same stuff. I have long used oxalic acid as a cleaner/restorer and it came up trumps again with the true colour beaming through after several hard scrubbings and applications. A quick sand with 240 wet and dry. Beautiful colour, so did not oil. Indonesian teak, not Burmese. So far 3 coats of polyurethane marine varnish, and one more to come. Now here’s the thing: you recommend expo to build up the wear edges. But from my experience epoxy fairs very badly in UV. What protection for the epoxy to prevent it discolouring and eventually breaking down? I used epoxy (Bote Cote) on the deck teak blocks that secure the spinnaker pole and it lasted just a year before going opaque and staring to flake off. What epoxy do you use that is UV protected? Thanks for these newsletters – keep ’em coming!

I applied West System epoxy to the edges of my crib boards and have not noticed any UV degradation after 3 years. However, I do not leave my boat outside year round, the edges are not exposed to direct sunlight, they’re blocked by the companionway trim, and I also protect my companionway with this canvas cover when the boat is not in use.

Your environment must be quite different. What might work for you to get the best of both worlds is to apply a good UV protectant varnish over the epoxy instead of epoxy over varnish.

Any suggestions on removing the hatch rails on my 1979 Catalina 22? They seem to be “cemented” in place with very old sealant. I’m trying with a flexible putty knife and a hammer, but it is VERY slow going.

Patience. Sharpening your putty knife may help as might a hair dryer or other form of low heat to soften the sealant. When it comes time to reseal them, use butyl tape and it won’t be nearly as hard the next time.

Thanks! Patience was the key. I also found that putting a bit of mechanical stress for a while (even just leaving a putty knife wedged under the wood for a couple of hours) seemed to help loosen things up. Of course, maybe.the benefit was simply in me taking a break every once in awhile. In any event, I have now successfully removed all the external pieces and ready to start refinishing. Yes, I have a great big roll of butyl tape to use when I get to the re-installation.

I love your site. It has been great inspiration as I take on the refurbishing of our newly acquired 1979 Catalina 22.

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Hi Stingy, My question relates back again to the butyl tape. You suggest application at each joint and edges (for the hatch rails). My butyl tape is 2″ wide and rolled like a cinnamon roll. Do I leave it flat and trim strips? How wide should the strips be? Should I worry about leaks where I join pieces together? Can I apply this technique when resealing my cabin hatches/windows?

Lastly, how is the teak finish holding up on Summer Dance now that she has greater exposure to the elements?

Thanks for all your tips!

Hello, Becky

I assume you meant that your butyl tape is 2″ wide, not 2′ wide, so I edited your original question. Regardless, you don’t want to use it in it’s original width. For tips on how much to use and how to prepare it, see How To Bed Hardware With Butyl Tape . And yes, when you join two strips of butyl tape, knead the ends together to maintain a continuous seal.

Resealing portlites is a more involved process, for which I will be posting a separate article so stay tuned for it.

The brightwork on Summer Dance has held up well for over 5 years now. There are a few small dings from normal use but it won’t need refinishing anytime soon.

Thanks for your questions, $tingy

Re butyl tape: we can get butyl mastic in a caulking tube here (Australia). Makes it reasonably easy to apply, though a bit sticky when fresh. Any reason why this would not work as well as tape?

I can’t think of a reason why it wouldn’t work just as well provided that it cures a bit harder and doesn’t stay so soft that it acts as a lubricant between parts. It would seem to be a good option for use in winter when butyl tape could be harder to work with cold.

Thanks for your comment, $tingy

Thanks $Stingy Yes, it does stiffen up, in fact it goes off in the tube after opening a month or two and becomes stiff.

How are the two exterior trim pieces (holding the crib boards) fastened to the fiberglass? My C25 has original pieces with a couple of large cracks that I’d like to repair or replace. I wonder if they are held in place by sealant and the screws from the interior trim pieces but I can’t tell. Any help?

They are secured with a second set of screws (not the interior trim screws) on the inside of the bulkhead underneath the interior trim. So you get to refinish them all at the same time.

When reinstalling the refinished pieces of teak, do I need to also use sealant (like 4200 or 5200) around the screws if I’m using the Butyl tape you recommended?

Hello, Kate

I use little donuts of butyl tape around screws but you can use another sealant if you want. I don’t recommend using 5200, though. It cures very hard and can make the pieces impossible to remove again in the future.

Re butyl tape, install videos ie stanchions call for applying tape to screw, not turning but tightening nut instead. With handrails, hatch guides etc screws must be turned into the wood. How to best apply tape when reinstalling?

In that case, it’s true. Each situation has it’s own challenges. It’s not critical how you apply the sealant, just that it produces a watertight seal. For the parts you mentioned, I apply a thin (1/8″ or so) bead around the perimeter of the part and around the screw holes, then tighten the screws. I retighten a day or so later after the butyl has had a chance to spread to achieve maximum compression.

Would like to refinish mine, but the previous owner thought staining the teak would be good, they used a brush, they left it that way, they didn’t rub with a rag after. probably have to paint as I doubt sanding will remove stain 😒

Can you try sanding down to bare wood in an inconspicuous spot such as an underside?

Personally I against varnishing teak. I have always had great results with the Oleo stuff (sorry for brain fade can’t remember full name. If you varnish exterior teak it looks beautiful until it doesn’t then you have to strip it all off and start again. With the oil aight sand and an oily wipe over twice a year and it always looks good. If its too weathered a scrub with oxalic acid, then oil and it’s back to beautiful.

Love my sailboats

Removing varnish form old parts that were removed and bleached is something I do not want to do again. I am interested in only regularly cleaning and then oiling the teak. No more varnish finishes. Your thoughts?

I hear you, John. It’s a personal preference. There are a lot better ways to spend time than maintaining brightwork. Thankfully, there good products available to meet everyone’s choice.

What products might they be? I am currently trying oxalic acid diluted 4:1. My teak trim is 34 years old and I cannot get the dark streaks out.

By “dark streaks,” do you mean black mildew or natural wood grain? For mildew streaks, oxalic acid is your best bet but you might be diluting it too much. Are you buying it in liquid or crystal form? If liquid, what is the concentration in the bottle? I make mine from as much crystals as will dissolve in warm water, then applied full strength and given a few minutes to work before neutralizing. Even then, it can take multiple applications to achieve the results you’re looking for. It can also take sanding to get out deeply embedded mildew.

Thank you for your time spent here.

I had some reasonable results. I was being safety conscious with the 6:1 and agree I’ll get to 4:1 next cleanup. I’m considering refinishing the companionway panels and using a sealer, not varnish.

Can you recommend a sealer that will keep the product looking good longer than the handrails, companionway guide rail, and window eyebrows that I don’t mind keeping after in its current well-oiled format?

Safe Sailing

I don’t have any personal experience with it, but some folks like the look and ease of maintenance of Sikkens Cetol Marine Wood Finish.

It is preferable to use the two-part cleaner if you have neglected the teak wood for a long period.

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How to Clean and Restore Teak Wood

Does your dirty gray outdoor teak furniture look like it should go in the fire pit, not around it? How about your dull, weathered teak boat deck – does it look like it belongs on The Flying Dutchman? Or make you want to walk the deck, swearing at the wind because you don’t know how to bring your teak back from the brink?

Well you can stop swearing and start scrubbing because teak wood care is easy with the right products and a little elbow grease.

In this post, we’ll show you how to make your teak go from gray, stained, moldy, slimy, mildewy, and dingy to golden, bright, and beautiful in a few easy steps that include cleaning, brightening, and finishing (or leaving bare). Finishing can include applying some type of teak wood oil, teak sealer, varnish , or synthetic finish, depending on the look you want.

How to Clean and Brighten Teak Wood Without Damaging It

For fast, easy, amazing results, use a 2-part teak cleaner that’s safe for use on teak wood. This type of product includes a cleaner (Part A) and a brightener (Part B). The cleaner component removes dirt, grime, grease, and stains, while the brightener neutralizes the cleaner and returns teak to its natural golden tone.

Before you start cleaning your teak, put on some disposable gloves and wear protection for your face, eyes and skin. You’ll also want to protect any surrounding surfaces that might be damaged by the teak cleaner by masking or removing any painted parts or aluminum parts that are on or near the teak.

Step 1: How to Clean Teak Wood

Start by soaking the teak with fresh water.

Use a sponge to apply Part A, then use a soft bristle brush or a Scotch-Brite® pad to scrub lightly across the grain – not with the grain. If you scrub with the grain, you’re pushing the dirt and grime down deeper, and you can actually do damage because you’re removing more of the wood grain.

As you scrub, you’ll notice the froth turning a dark brown color as the dirt and grime comes out. Rinse the surface with fresh water.

Step 2: How to Brighten Teak Wood

Use a soft bristle brush to apply Part B, and scrub lightly across the grain. As you scrub, you’ll notice the teak begin to lighten in color.

Rinse thoroughly with fresh water to remove all residue from Part B. Remember to scrub while rinsing to help remove the brightener completely. Here’s a little teak table top that was dirty and stained – see how different it looks after cleaning!

After cleaning your teak, always wait at least a few days for the teak to dry completely to a light, golden color. You may notice that as the water evaporates, the wood grain gets raised a little. You’ll want to sand lightly – in the direction of the wood grain – until the surface is smooth, before applying a teak treatment.

How to Protect Teak Wood from Sun, Salt, Mold, Mildew, Dirt and Stains

So what do you do now that your teak is bright and beautiful again? You can either leave it as is, or apply some type of teak oil, teak sealer, varnish, or synthetic wood finish product. The choice is yours. Certain teak items like boat swim platforms don’t really need to be coated with anything because they spend most of their time under water, though an application of teak oil will offer a degree of protection.

The important thing to note here is that some finishes will last longer, require less maintenance, and provide better protection than others. One thing’s for sure, if you do nothing, the teak will become silvery gray and weathered a lot sooner.

Teak Wood Oil

What is teak oil , anyway? It’s a blend of oils and solvents designed to replenish teak’s natural oils. A teak oil finish prevents wood from drying out, restores its original color, and provides an attractive matte finish.

Teak Wood Sealer

Teak sealer is used to seal in teak’s natural oils, prevent wood from drying out, and preserve the beguiling golden hue associated with teak. In addition to sealing in the natural oils, teak sealer also helps to repel dirt and stains, and prevent mold and mildew

When to Use Teak Oil or Teak Sealer

We recommend using marine teak oil for initial rejuvenation and maintenance coats. If the teak wood is not in great condition and needs better oil penetration initially, and some degree of mildew protection, apply teak sealer. Later on, you can use teak oil for maintenance coats. It’s not necessary to apply teak oil then follow with an application of teak sealer.

Advantages of Using Teak Oil and Teak Sealer

• Creates the most natural-looking results
• Fast and easy to apply
• Relatively inexpensive compared to varnish
• These finishes do not become slippery when wet, so they are ideal to use on teak swim platforms, teak decking, teak handrails

The downside of teak oils and teak sealers is that they require regular maintenance. And compared to varnish and synthetic wood finishes, teak oils and sealers don’t last as long, or provide as much protection from the elements. Maintenance coats are a must, and depending on sun exposure, climate, and the condition of the wood, you may need to apply maintenance coats monthly, twice a year, or annually.

Another type of natural finish for teak that’s worth mentioning is tung oil . It adds waterproofing properties, creates a low-sheen, hand-rubbed finish that won’t mildew or turn yellow, and it protects against staining. Here’s more information about the differences between teak oil vs. tung oil .

Synthetic Marine Wood Finish

For a finish that offers beauty, UV protection and moisture resistance similar to varnish, but is less expensive and easier to apply, try a synthetic marine wood finish . These products form a protective coating and come in a variety of finishes, including a natural teak wood finish, a gloss finish, and a satin finish.

Advantages of Using a Synthetic Marine Wood Finish on Teak Wood

• Faster and easier to apply, and more affordable than varnish
• Forms a protective coating and has UV protection similar to varnish
• Easier to repair than varnish
• More durable than teak oil and teak sealer
• Maintenance coats are applied annually – much less frequently than teak oil or teak sealer
• Not just for boats, synthetic wood finish products are great for outdoor teak furniture

Synthetic wood finishes look great on all types of wood, not just teak. Here’s an example of how beautiful TotalBoat Marine Wood Finish looks on a refinished porch floor.

There’s nothing quite like varnish to highlight the wood grain, protect against UV and moisture damage, and maintain the natural golden color of teak wood. But that beauty and protection take more time, effort, and money than teak oil, teak sealer, or synthetic wood finishes.

Varnish protects by forming a coating over the teak that shields it from the elements. This coating leaves a durable finish that comes in a variety of options, including high gloss varnish , rubbed effect varnish, matte varnish , and satin varnish .

Some traditional varnish products require thinning the initial coats, sanding between coats and applying multiple coats, while more modern varnish products feature rapid recoating , no sanding between coats, and up to 5 coats in 1 day! There are also water-based varnish products that dry fast to a durable finish, have no harsh odors, and are easy to clean up with soap and water.

Advantages of Using Varnish on Teak Wood

• Best at showcasing the wood grain
• Achieves distinctness of image (DOI), or gloss
• Helps restore and retain teak’s natural color and beauty
• Provides the best UV protection and moisture resistance
• Offers exceptional resistance to stains, oils, grease, and dirt

To read more about sealing teak and other woods with varnish, teak oil, teak sealer, and marine wood finish products, take a look at our TotalBoat Varnishing How To Guide . If you have any questions about teak care or teak finishing, please call our Tech Support Team at (800) 497-0010.

Marine Wood Finish

2-Part Teak Wood Cleaner and Brightening System

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A Complete Guide to Teak Maintenance on Your Sailboat

By Joshua Bremmerer, CEO at  Komodo Covers Teak surfaces are divisive in the boating world—loved by some for their sparkling appearance and perfect grip, loathed by others for the perceived difficulty of teak maintenance. The reality is that teak is nothing to be afraid of, as long as you follow some essential tips to take care of the material properly, minimizing costs in the process.

Teak is famed for its various grains of hard and softwood, making it naturally adhesive and anti-slip in practically any weather condition. Furthermore, it maintains a relatively cool temperature , insulating a boat to avoid engine overheating. Due to the several types of wood, different teak maintenance methods can drastically affect its ability to last. 

So, it’s crucial to take the following steps into account to make sure you don’t mark the surface and keep your boat in excellent condition.

Cleaning is king

First things first, whatever you do, don’t use high-pressure cleaners on your teak because they will destroy the softer wooden elements, leaving ridges and areas that can quickly rot. Additionally, hard brushes or powerful cleaning detergents will cause a similar effect, damaging the vulnerable soft sections.

Instead, it’s much better to do regular cleaning—weekly if possible—with a very soft brush or Brite pad. You will see good results from lightly brushing against the grain with a mild detergent. If you see mildew or just want to make your sailboat sparkle, you could consider using a tiny amount of bleach, but do it with caution.

Smooth sailing with sanding

Most boaters with a teak deck consider it a standard practice to sand the surface once a year before the start of a season. Sandpapers come in various grits—for a teak deck, between 80 and 120-grit is the ideal level. The higher the number of grit, the more slippery the deck will be, so a medium level is suitable for teak as it will maintain the characteristic non-slip.

Seal the deal

Once you have cleaned and sanded the teak evenly, you can be forgiven for clapping your hands together and proclaiming a “job well done.” But you are still missing one last step—and it is a crucial one. A teak sealer will prolong the natural appearance of the wood for years to come while maintaining the pristine condition. Depending on the type of seal, some can contain biocides and even UV inhibitors which go that extra step in terms of preservation.

Aside from sealers, you can also consider using teak oil products, but be careful on how much you apply as sometimes overapplication of oil can promote mildew growth. If your boat isn’t going to be used regularly, this may not be the best course of action. The other issue with teak oil is that it doesn’t last particularly long, usually 4-12 weeks, depending on how well you have applied it.

Following these tips will put you in a great position to get your boat ready for a season on the water. If you choose the right cleaning products, sand your deck appropriately, and seal it with a good sealer, you should be able to maintain your sailboat deck for longer than you had ever imagined!

About Josh Bremmerer

Josh Bremmerer  is an  innate navigator, an experienced leader in the boating industry  with over a decade of experience in management and company development and a lifelong passion for boating.  As the manager of Glacier Ski Shop, Josh grew the small Shop into a nationally recognized business and increased profits by 400%. With that background, it’s no wonder Josh started his own business in the boating industry:  Komodo Covers . 

1936. Voyage around Cape Horn by schooner Wanderbird

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• Marine Teak Restoration

Coastal Yacht Detailing is your go-to destination for premium marine teak restoration services. If you’re a proud boat owner who appreciates the classic elegance of teak, our team of skilled professionals are here to help you restore its natural beauty and ensure it stands the test of time. With our meticulous attention to detail and passion for perfection, we bring back the luster of your marine teak, making it a focal point of envy on the waters.

Why Choose Us?

At Coastal Yacht Detailing, we understand that marine teak is not just a material; it’s a statement of style and sophistication. We take pride in offering you the following key benefits when you entrust us with your teak restoration:

1. Expertise that Matters: With years of experience and a deep understanding of marine teak, our team possesses the knowledge and expertise to handle teak restoration projects of all sizes and complexities. Whether your boat needs a complete teak deck refurbishment or spot repairs, we have you covered.

2. Revitalizing Your Teak’s Natural Beauty: Over time, marine teak can become weathered, dull, and lose its characteristic golden hue. Our restoration services involve thorough cleaning, sanding, and refinishing, revealing the natural warmth and rich tones that make teak a timeless choice for boat decking.

3. Preservation for the Long Haul: We believe in sustainable restoration practices. Our eco-friendly approach ensures that we use products and techniques that not only beautify your teak but also protect it from the harsh marine environment, extending its life for years to come.

4. Tailored Solutions for Your Needs: Every boat and teak surface is unique, and we treat them as such. Our team works closely with you to understand your requirements and deliver customized solutions that align with your vision for your boat’s teak.

Our Marine Teak Restoration Process:

At MarineTeak Restore, we follow a comprehensive and time-tested restoration process, ensuring exceptional results every time:

1. Inspection and Evaluation: Our experts begin by carefully examining the condition of your marine teak. This step allows us to identify areas that require attention and formulate a tailored restoration plan.

2. Cleaning and Preparation: We use specialized teak cleaning agents and tools to remove dirt, grime, and old finishes. This prepares the teak surface for the next steps in the restoration process.

3. Sanding and Refinishing: Our skilled craftsmen meticulously sand the teak to reveal fresh wood, eliminating scratches and imperfections. Once the surface is smooth, we apply the finest teak oils or finishes to enhance its natural beauty and provide long-lasting protection.

4. Final Inspection: Before we consider the restoration complete, we conduct a thorough final inspection to ensure that every inch of your teak is restored to perfection.

5. Maintenance Tips: We provide you with valuable maintenance tips and guidance to preserve the beauty of your teak and keep it looking its best for years to come.

Bring Your Teak Back to Life – Contact Us Today!

Don’t let your boat’s teak lose its charm. Trust the marine teak restoration experts at Coastal Yacht Detailing to breathe new life into your teak surfaces. Our dedication to quality craftsmanship and customer satisfaction sets us apart, making us the preferred choice for boat owners who demand excellence. Contact us today to schedule a consultation and discover how we can transform your marine teak into a stunning centerpiece on your boat. Let’s embark on a journey to preserve the timeless allure of teak together!

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A Teak Restoration How-To...

A teak restoration how-to.

There’s nothing more beautiful than a boat with well maintained teak decking. It not only looks amazing, but it helps hold up to the harsh marine environment if it has been properly treated. So, as beautiful as it is, it does require maintenance. If you are familiar with teak decking, you already know you will need to perform needed restoration work from time to time. In order to get great results from your teak wood maintenance and continue to enjoy its beauty in the future, consider these tips for teak restoration.

When Is It Time To Restore Your Teak?

Restoring teak is necessary, not just continue to make it look nice, but to also to protect your wood. You need to know when the time is right. Restoring teak does take quite a bit of time and effort, so you don’t want to go through all of that when it’s not needed. The first way to tell when it’s time is observing the color of the wood. If your teak has turned to a shade of grey or looks brittle, then it’s time to start restoring. Because it is a little more than just slapping some protectant on the wood, it’s important to have a plan before you jump into action.

Jumping in and being too aggressive is probably not the best idea. It’s also important to be careful with what products you choose. Harsh chemicals are not the way to start. You can actually damage your teak if you jump right to cleaners with a lot of abrasive chemicals, and those harsh chemicals are usually not even needed. We suggest you start with our Teak Brite Powder Cleaner. It can deliver amazing results without damaging the wood grain. After using the Teak Brite Powder Cleaner it is important to make sure you let the wood dry completely before continuing. If you find this is not a strong enough cleaner, you may need to move on to a harsher cleaner.

Scrub Scrub

Using the right tool while cleaning your teak is important. Our Life Scrub-All is a heavy-duty continuous filament marine stainless-steel scrubber which is perfect for teak and other hard wood. It has a lifetime guarantee not to corrode, wear out or disintegrate. Be sure to get a scrubber designed specifically for this job will avoid damaging the teak.

Protect Your Teak

Restoring your teak does require quite a bit of effort. Don’t waste all of that hard work by not sealing up the teak after you are done. The critical last step of your restoration should be applying a teak oil and sealer. If you skip this step, your great looking restored teak surface will return to its weathered look. Be sure your teak is completely dry before you apply the oil and sealer. We suggest using BoatLife’s Teak Oil & Sealer. Our oil is the most advanced teak oil and sealer available. It delivers long lasting protection even in tropical climates. You might have to wait an extra day to get back out on the water, but the oil coat will not soak in properly if the wood isn’t dry, so be patient!

For more boating tips and our full line of products, be sure to visit our website at www.boatlife.com .

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• Boat Maintenance
• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Replacing Teak Decks, the DIY-er’s Way

One couple's deck-refit story, a tale of trading hard labor for cutting costs..

PS contributor Joe Minick and his wife, Lee, are cruising the Mediterranean aboard their Mason 43, Southern Cross.

After 26 years, it was painful, but not surprising, to find our much-esteemed teak deck failing, irreparably. It had started life as half-inch teak planks, bedded, caulked, and fastened in the traditional manner with screws, but weather and wear had finally thinned the teak to the point where splits could often be found radiating from the bungholes.

We extended the life of the deck another season by injecting epoxy into the cracks, but a year later, many had opened again. It was time to make a decision before leaks began to play havoc with the core of the deck.

After years of cruising with a teak deck, we knew most of its pros and cons. Pros: aesthetically pleasing and a first-rate nonskid, kind to bare feet, and relatively easy to clean. Cons: hot in a warm climate, expensive, and potentially high maintenance. We began to think that maybe a change was in order.

As we explored the possibilities, we found it was almost impossible to get any kind of accurate estimate of the cost of converting to a painted deck without knowing more. Was there gelcoat with nonskid under the teak? Was there hidden water damage that would require extensive repairs before the deck could be painted after the teak was removed? A bit of work with a hammer and chisel revealed that there was only fiberglass laminate under the teak, no gelcoat or nonskid.

Damage assessment would have to wait until we removed all the teak, but other problems were apparent. The edge of the coachroof was molded to accept the edge of the teak plank, and scupper drains through the fiberglass cockpit coamings and toerail would be above the deck after the teak was removed.

Converting to a painted deck would require extensive fairing along with several layers of gelcoat and a new nonskid applied. Twice in the past, we had added nonskid coatings to an existing deck. One deck was rolled with a layer of tacky resin that was then painted; the other involved applying a course aggregate to the paint before spray-painting. There are effective paint-on nonskid options, but neither of the products or methods we used produced what I felt was a great offshore nonskid, and both were hard to clean.

The stick-on nonskid Treadmaster, while possibly not meeting everyone’s aesthetic expectations, would provide a truly nonskid surface. (See the November 2021 issue at www.practical-sailor.com for our long-term test of nonskid paints and adhesive-backed pads.)

The estimated cost of a painted deck was mounting rapidly, and I didn’t feel we were qualified to handle the job by ourselves, so we started reviewing options for a new teak deck. Although oily teak defies many kinds of glue, advanced adhesives for this task have been around long enough to establish a good track record. Bonding the teak to the deck means no more worrisome screws and their holes into the deck core. Teak was expensive, but we could handle a lot of the work ourselves, and the total cost was potentially lower than painting, if we could provide much of the labor.

The decision was made, and we arranged for a berth alongside the quay in a marina with a reputable marine carpentry shop. They recommended doing the work afloat to avoid the risk of falling and to avoid the heavy labor of hauling lengths of teak, tools, and weights up a 12-foot ladder. It was good advice.

Major Tasks

We faced several challenges that were easier said than done:

• Removing the deck hardware; virtually everything was bolted through the deck.
• Removing the old teak and preparing the deck for bonding new teak.
• Cutting, bonding, and caulking the new teak.
• Re-installing the deck hardware.

Removing the deck hardware took eight days with two people working 12 hour days. The stanchions and pulpits alone had over 120 bolts through the deck. The list went on and on, including cleats, anchor rollers, windlass, and more, but it was something we could handle. Although labor intensive, it was a good cost-cutter for us.

Removing the old deck was a long and arduous job with a chisel and hammer. We left the screws in place and drove a chisel along under a plank, breaking it off each time a screw was encountered. Unfortunately, the fiberglass laminate under the deck was occasionally nicked by the chisel.

After the teak and all associated rubble were bagged and carted away, the screws were removed with a screwdriver where possible and vise grips where not. We broke a few screws and left them in the deck to be sealed with epoxy during the next phase. A surface grinder cleaned the old caulk off before we filled the old screw holes with epoxy and applied a thin coat of epoxy to the entire deck to repair the chisel scrapes and seal the laminate. This was sanded before bonding, to provide “tooth” for the adhesive. We felt we could handle everything except preparing and bonding the new teak, so we sought the assistance of the carpenter to help with this task.

Teak decks are traditionally laid with an outer panel or frame inside the toe-rail and an inner frame around the coachroof and cockpit coamings. The outer frame may be omitted if the curvature of the rail is mild enough to allow a standard width plank to be sprung into place along the toerail, but an inner frame is almost always required to accept the end of individual planks where the curvature is more pronounced. A king plank is commonly used to join the end of the planks on the bow and at the stern.

The wood shop cut and milled the teak planks to half-inch thickness and three different widths to accommodate the frames, planks, and king plank. The planks were relieved along both edges to about half their thickness to provide a caulking groove, and we were ready to begin.

There is more than one way to spring planks into place for bonding, but a common trick is drill a small hole near the edge of the plank that holds a piece of scrap wood. Then a wedge is driven between it and the plank to spring it into place alongside its neighbor. Heavy weights are applied to hold it while the adhesive cures. The drilled holes should all be repaired with epoxy before installing the next plank, but some installers rely on the adhesive under the next plank to fill them and this may be equally satisfactory.

Caulking, while messy, was straight forward. As the entire deck needed a light sanding, we didn’t tape the seams and relied on sanding to remove the excess. It pays to remove, seal, or cover just about everything for this phase. The caulk dust seems to find its way into every possible opening.

It took a month to re-install the deck hardware. All the holes had disappeared under the new teak, and initially we relied heavily on our plan to re-drill them from below. This worked fairly well for the larger holes we made with hole saws and a drum sander. That changed when it came to drilling the bolt holes perpendicular to the deck and parallel to each other while standing on our heads in a locker. With backing plates on one side and hardware on the other, the holes had to be true.

Fortunately, we had taken the time to measure and mark the location of most holes, using the toerail or coachroof as our reference. In the end, drilling from the top down, where one could more accurately see the angle of the drill, proved to be the best choice, but it would have been difficult without the carefully measured and marked locations.

Considerations and Planning

I estimated the job would take two months, but it actually took us three months and a day to complete, working long hours every day in a climate where it never rained, but the summer heat was intense. Without awnings, we wouldn’t have been able to endure it, but we avoided any chance of rain with several hundred holes in the deck exposed. If rain is expected, you’ll need some means of temporarily closing all holes in the deck until the new teak is in place.

We reused almost all the hardware fasteners. Careful bagging and labeling makes this a lot easier, although a few bent screws must inevitably be replaced, arbitrarily replacing all the fasteners would add significantly to the expense of the project.

A large number of heavy weights will be needed. When planks are sprung into place, there is tendency for an edge to lift that can only be overcome with lots of downward pressure. Pieces of railroad track worked well for us but avoid using sand bags or similar approaches. The flexibility inherent with bags can allow an edge to lift, and it’s vital that the teak be pressed firmly into contact with the deck at all points.

Ends of planks can be readily cut and shaped with a fine-toothed blade in a saber saw and drum sander. If available, a carefully handled pistol grip or D-handle router works well for trimming up, but if in doubt, stick to the drum sander and a sanding block. I made good use of a Dremel tool with a smaller drum sander for shaping smaller openings cut into the new deck for fuel and water fills and the like.

Plan to prepare and lay a maximum of one plank per day per side, and even this will be a long day’s work. Reading up on patterns and layouts for traditional teak decks will help you understand the process of adding a new set of cutouts to the king plank as pairs of planks are laid up to the bow or stern. Actually bonding the king plank is done last, after everything else is in place. Photograph every inch of the deck before you start.

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Junior Member Yacht Name: Escape Home Port: Marmora, NJ Country: USA Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top a. if you opt not to sand first, use a hard bristle or scotchbrite pad for this step.     b. wear rubber gloves and boots when applying Starke products and read safety information before using. 4. Wash Starke part A off teak thoroughly with fresh water. 5. Repeat same process for Starke part B and rinse thoroughly with fresh water. 6. After Starke products have been applied and rinsed. Wash entire area with mild soap and soft brush to ensure all product is removed from teak and surrounding gel coat. The teak looks good and no more splinters. I’m curious how long the teak will stay looking new.    by : images Expert Member Jeanneau Model: Sun Odyssey 469 Yacht Name: Moonshadow Home Port: Virginia Beach, VA Country: United States via mobile Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Expert Member Yacht Name: With Gusto Home Port: Grosse Pointe Farms Pier Park MICHIGAN Country: USA Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top said:Greetings, This post is intended to pass along my research and results for restoring our teak onboard. I recently sanded and treated the teak aboard our 2018 SO 389. I really didn't plan on doing anything with the teak so soon with other priority projects in the queue. But... after our last 30 hour trip south both my wife and I had multiple splinters both from the cockpit and helm seating areas where the teak had gotten 'furry' and grey. So, with a new order of priorities, I began researching how to restore and treat the teak. In previous boats I've owned, a teak cleaner (acid) and oil were applied with good results. After reviewing multiple blogs and YouTube videos I decided to sand and apply a cleaner and polish, neither of which were oil based. We have used Watco Teak oil twice a year.   Works great and easy to apply. <button disabled="">Attachment Deleted</button> We decided on the Starke teak system which is a 2-part process. Part 1, cleans and restores the original teak color and Part 2 puts a non-oil polish on the teak. It is said you can use part one with just a stiff brush or scotchbrite pad. We opted for a full sanding because of the peaks and valleys on our teak. Process went as follows. 1. Before applying the Starke 2-part system, We first sanded with an orbital sander using 60 and 80 grit paper. When sanding, the object is to take the first oxidized 'grey' layer off and to flatten the caulk seams. I hint of grey teak OK in the deep valleys as you don't want to remove too much of the good wood. Never sand with anything higher than 80 grit as it can make the teak slippery when wet. <button disabled="">Attachment Deleted</button> 2. After all the teak of the area you want to treat has been sanded, wash down thoroughly with fresh water. We opted to sand all the teak onboard before washing down. It's fine to treat teak incrementally. 3. Once clean of all dust, liberally apply Starke part A to wet teak (teak should still be wet from wash down) and brush into teak with a soft bristle brush. Make sure teak is wet and spray with fresh water if not before Starke part A is applied.     a. if you opt not to sand first, use a hard bristle or scotchbrite pad for this step.     b. wear rubber gloves and boots when applying Starke products and read safety information before using. 4. Wash Starke part A off teak thoroughly with fresh water. 5. Repeat same process for Starke part B and rinse thoroughly with fresh water. 6. After Starke products have been applied and rinsed. Wash entire area with mild soap and soft brush to ensure all product is removed from teak and surrounding gel coat. The teak looks good and no more splinters. I’m curious how long the teak will stay looking new.    <button disabled="">Attachment Deleted</button> Junior Member Yacht Name: Escape Home Port: Marmora, NJ Country: USA Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Jeanneau Guru Yacht Name: Tafika II Home Port: Redondo Beach, CA Country: United States Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top by Jeanneau Guru Yacht Name: Elessar Home Port: Geelong Country: Australia Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Junior Member Yacht Name: Escape Home Port: Marmora, NJ Country: USA Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top by Senior Member Home Port: Miami Country: USA Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Junior Member Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Junior Member Yacht Name: Escape Home Port: Marmora, NJ Country: USA Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top said:Does the teak have any sort of sealer in these pictures or just the 2 part cleaner? No Sealer.  Just the 2 part cleaner.  Part B is a polish but does not seal.   If the teak starts losing it's natural color, I'll try a sealer or oil.  For now, I'm just leaving as is. Senior Member SO 42DS 2006 - "Imagination" Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Boracol: Show-off picture of my 15 year old teak: by : image Senior Member SO 42DS 2006 - "Imagination" via mobile Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Senior Member Home Port: Miami Country: USA Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top by Senior Member SO 42DS 2006 - "Imagination" Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top New Member Yacht Name: Nova Zembla Home Port: Vancouver Country: Canada Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Junior Member Yacht Name: Escape Home Port: Marmora, NJ Country: USA Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top said:I have a 2005 SO49 and need to sand the cockpit teak. Before I start, was wondering how thick is the teak? It looks to me like its a one piece slab that's glued down so don't want to take too much wood off... sanding with orbital sander and 80 grit leveled off the caulk, took out the big "ridges and valleys" and left teak looking and feeling like new.  But...  my 389 was in the Caribbean for 3 years without anything done.  I applied the cleaner and sealer after sanding and now intend to apply periodically.    While sanding, I probably only took off about 1/32 to 1/16" (1.5mm) of wood.   I guess it depends on how bad your teak is on whether you want to use the sander. I also agree that a sander may not be necessary.  In my particular case, 1mm "ridges and valleys" in the teak would have been impossible to level out with just cleaner/sealer. Cheers. Senior Member Home Port: Miami Country: USA Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top by : images Jeanneau Guru Retired and so far...loving it.... Yacht Name: Sapphire Home Port: Broken Bay, Sydney Country: Australia via mobile Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Senior Member Home Port: Miami Country: USA Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top said:Looks fantastic! Be warned… this can become an obsession, Thats for sure, I'm about to strip the varnish off the cockpit table to Semco it next! Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media Media New media New comments Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe Restore teak in Cabin Thread starter look4judy Start date Mar 27, 2020 Forums for All Owners Ask All Sailors Hi, Our teak in our Cabin is looing slightly tired. What do you recommend to bring it back to life   teak oil   Catalina used Watco's Teak Oil (can get at Home Depot) up until about 1990 for the interior finish, after that they switched to a lighter color, water based varnish. Here's a direct quote from Catalina: The varnish is Target Coatings-Oxford, semi gloss. If your boat is oiled it is Watco teak oil. ~ Gerry Douglas If you have an oil finish, you can lightly sand (careful with the veneer) to get a more uniform appearance and then apply some Teak Oil, which will darken it some. In good areas, just clean the teak with some citrus based cleaner and then oil. You can also expirement with lemon oil which will not darken the teak as much, maybe one coat of Teak Oil to get a uniform appearance and then go with lemon oil from there. On my boat, I sanded the galley and nav station teak back to bare wood as they were pretty mottled and did 3 coats of Teak Oil, looks great. The rest is in good shape, the plan is to touch up a couple places with Teak Oil and then use lemon oil.   dmax said: If you have an oil finish, you can lightly sand (careful with the veneer) Click to expand Maroon Scotch Brite pads are great for washing stainless pots and pans too   Bob S said: Maroon Scotch Brite pads are great for washing stainless pots and pans too Click to expand dmax said: Catalina used Watco's Teak Oil (can get at Home Depot) up until about 1990 for the interior finish, after that they switched to a lighter color, water based varnish. Here's a direct quote from Catalina: The varnish is Target Coatings-Oxford, semi gloss. If your boat is oiled it is Watco teak oil. ~ Gerry Douglas If you have an oil finish, you can lightly sand (careful with the veneer) to get a more uniform appearance and then apply some Teak Oil, which will darken it some. In good areas, just clean the teak with some citrus based cleaner and then oil. You can also expirement with lemon oil which will not darken the teak as much, maybe one coat of Teak Oil to get a uniform appearance and then go with lemon oil from there. On my boat, I sanded the galley and nav station teak back to bare wood as they were pretty mottled and did 3 coats of Teak Oil, looks great. The rest is in good shape, the plan is to touch up a couple places with Teak Oil and then use lemon oil. Click to expand Removing pieces and finishing at home is ideal but not necessary - many pieces are held in with screws under bungs, removing and replacing the bungs is not hard but you risk marring the wood. I finish in place unless it's easy for me to remove without damage. You don't need to finish the underside as teak is very rot resistant and with a good fit, not much if any moisture will get under there.   Sealing the underside of teak is usually unnecessary. The only reason to seal it is to prevent moisture from entering the wood and then lifting the varnish. This can happen on large pieces of teak (or any wood) that is flat and often wet. Toe rails and wood coamings are the biggest culprits followed by handrails. If they are removed, it is best to thoroughly dry the wood and seal with epoxy. All in all, probably more work than applying a couple of coats of varnish every few years. Use a good quality varnish like Epifanes and put multiple coats on, as many as 5 or 6.   This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more… Ridetheducks.com is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Learn more How to Restore Teak Wood on a Boat Teak wood is a popular material used in the construction of boats due to its durability, resistance to moisture, and natural beauty. Over time, however, exposure to the elements can cause teak wood to become dull and discolored. But how to restore teak wood on a boat? Fortunately, there are several steps you can take to restore teak wood on a boat and bring back its original shine and luster. This article will discuss the steps involved in restoring teak wood on a boat. Step 1: Inspecting the Teak Wood Step 2: cleaning process, step 3: sanding the teak wood, step 4: teak brightener application and resanding, step 5: teak oil application, step 6: teak sealer application, step 7: teak wood maintenance, additional tips for teak wood maintenance. If you want to know how to take care of teak wood on a boat, you must learn how to inspect the surface for the restoration process. Before starting the restoration process, inspecting the teak wood to determine its condition is essential. Check for cracks, splits, and discoloration on the surface of the wood. If the damage is extensive, you may need to replace the damaged areas with new teak wood. If you still need to, you can proceed with the restoration process. The next step in restoring teak wood on the boat is to clean it thoroughly. You can use a soft-bristled brush and a teak cleaner to remove dirt, grime, and stains from the surface of the wood. Make sure to clean in the direction of the wood grain to avoid damaging the surface. You also need to be sure to get into all the crevices and grooves in the wood. Rinse the teak wood with clean water and let it dry completely. After cleaning the teak wood, the next step is to sand the surface. The purpose of this step is to remove the remaining stains and smooth out the surface. Use fine-grit sandpaper (at least 220-grit) and sand in the direction of the grain. Sand the wood with grain but make sure not to sand too aggressively, as doing this action can damage the wood’s surface. Sanding will also help to remove any raised grain or rough spots on the surface of the wood. Teak brighteners are designed to restore the natural color of teak wood and remove any stains or discoloration. Apply the teak brightener to the wood with a brush or sponge, covering the entire surface evenly. Allow the teak brightener to sit on the wood for 10 to 15 minutes, and then rinse it off with clean water. After the teak brightener has been rinsed off, sand the wood again with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots or raised grain. Doing this action will prepare the wood for the next step. Once the teak wood is cleaned and sanded, the next step is to apply the teak oil to protect and restore the wood. Teak oil is a natural wood preservative that penetrates the wood to protect against water, UV rays, and other environmental factors. Apply the teak oil using a clean cloth, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure to apply the oil evenly, allowing the oil to soak for 15 to 20 minutes before wiping off any excess oil using a clean cloth. After the teak oil has dried, the next step is to apply a teak sealer to protect the wood further. A teak sealer helps seal the wood’s pores and prevent water and dirt from penetrating the surface. Apply the sealer using a clean cloth or brush, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure to apply the sealer evenly and wipe off any excess with a clean cloth. Allow the teak sealer to dry completely (usually 24 to 48 hours) before using the boat. To maintain the teak wood’s appearance and durability, it is essential to repeat the above steps regularly. Depending on the level of exposure to the elements, you may need to clean and restore the teak wood every few months or once a year. Regular maintenance will help to preserve the wood’s natural beauty and extend its lifespan. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners that can damage the surface of the wood. Use a soft-bristled brush or sponge to clean the teak wood. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain to avoid damaging the surface. Apply teak oil and sealer in a well-ventilated area and avoid inhaling fumes. Store your boat in a covered area to protect the teak wood from excessive sun exposure and saltwater exposure. Learning how to restore teak wood on a boat is a crucial step in maintaining the aesthetic and functional value of the boat. It will not only enhance the wood’s appearance but also protect it from damage caused by exposure to the elements. By following the steps outlined above, you can restore and maintain the beauty of the teak wood on your boat. With regular maintenance, the teak wood can last many years and maintain its natural beauty for generations. Leave a Comment Cancel Reply Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked * Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Ridetheducksofseattle is reader-supported. When you buy through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission. Learn more How to Restore Teak Wood on a Boat? The Most Detailed Guide Written by Anthony Roberts / Fact checked by Jonathan Larson Teak wood is one of the materials that are trusted when making furniture. So it is no surprise to see that teak wood became popular among homeowners and boaters alike because of its durability and long-lasting performance. However, you should be taking care of this material. Otherwise, you will see dull teak wood on your boat. And if you are still looking for how to restore teak wood on a boat, you can find the instructions right here. I’ve failed several times before leaving this complete guide. You will get complete details about methods and relevant tips in teak wood restoration with what you need to prepare to ensure a better cleaning result. Table of Contents The Durability of Teak Wood Things that you need in restoring teak wood, guide on restoring teak wood on boat, making teak cleaner at home, knowing more about teak oil, up for teak restoration. Teak’s resiliency goes a long way. Just handle it with care and it can serve you for 10 to 15 years. It may even go as long as 20 years. The durability of the teak wood will depend on the following things: The quality of the main installation The consistency of maintenance How you use your boat You should know that what can damage teak wood the most is the wrong way of cleaning. It refers to inappropriate sanding and using harsh cleaning products. If you’re not careful, you just shorten the teak’s life. It can’t be avoided that 1mm of teak is deduced yearly whenever you clean or sand it. So take note of this possible erosion. You should also know that the thickness of the teak ranges from 7 to 18 mm. Teak restoration will take a day or two as dictated by things or cleaning materials that you choose. The time that you need will also be according to the teak’s condition. If the teak is badly worn out, you’ll have to repeat the essential process several times. Before you get started, make a list of the things that you need, just like the following: Cleaning Gloves One or two pairs of cleaning gloves will protect your hands from any harsh chemical added to the solution. Of course, you’re free to handle it with bare hands, but it’s best to prevent allergies or other kinds of harm. Common Powdered Soap The initial cleaning can be accomplished by a common powdered soap. It refers to the usual laundry soap. The amount of soap that you’ll administer depends on the area that is composed of teak wood. The scrub that you need in cleaning teak wood is not that special as the one you use at home is fine. It’s efficient in removing dirt that got stuck in the floor for a long period as well as mildew. Secure 3 to 4 scrubs until you finish the job. You may need more if you have more teak wood in your boat. One-Part Cleaner You will find many teak wood cleaners and they are distinct from each other. The majority of them dissolve in water, while others are in liquid form. They’re formulated for teak wood so discoloration is not something you have to worry about. The ingredients that you will likely find in them are oxalic and phosphoric acid. These substances are known for their ability in eliminating accumulated dirt. Two-Part Cleaner If you fail to give the teak wood attention for a long time, it’s best to use the two-part cleaner. However, you don’t need to utilize this if you’re satisfied with the effects of the one-part cleaner. Thus, you have to examine the teak wood to know its condition. This two-part cleaner is tough and can be hard on the teak. But it can excellently wipe out discoloration or mottling. This thing works on leveling the teak after the cleaning process is done. There are two kinds for you to choose from. They are the belt sander and the high-speed sander. You can also utilize 120-grit sandpaper. Brush or Broom? You need either a brush or broom when dusting off after polishing the teak. The broom you use at home can do the job, but you can opt for a brush instead. T eak Oil or Glossy Varnish? The last coat on the teak is from teak oil or glossy varnish . You have to be mindful of the color of the teak before purchasing a certain product. Make a smart choice so the teak won’t turn dark. After selecting the appropriate final coat, you have to determine the quantity that can cover the whole teak area in your boat. You need to have enough cans or bottles to not delay the job. Foam Brush or Varnish Applicator You may need 2 to 3 foam brushes when applying the final coating. This brush ensures the desired result as it allows the teak wood to absorb the oil well. Step 1: Begin the initial cleaning on the floor made of teak wood. Wet the area first, then directly apply the regular powdered soap or the laundry soap. After that, thoroughly scrub the surface to practice an outstanding way of cleaning. Step 2: Next, you can use the one-part teak cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions which are written on its label. Or you can find some cleaners in liquid form that can be applied directly. More so, some are powdered and they need to be dissolved in water following the recommended ratio for efficacy. Step 3: If the one-part cleaner could not deal with discolored areas or mottling sections, you have to resort to the two-part teak cleaner. Step 4: The multiple scrubbing will leave the teak uneven. Some grains tend to stick due to the weathering that occurred over time. To level out the marks of thorough cleaning or some mistakes, use the sander to even out the surface. Always remember to sand every after scrubbing. Before doing it, the cleaner should be completely dry. Sanding is always essential for teak wood that is severely worn out. Also, this process is required if the cleaning formula has left residue. However, you won’t be obliged in some situations so it’s fine to let go of this step. Step 5: After sanding and the level surface comes out, another cleaning should be done. It’s the sweeping off the dust and dirt that still adhere on the wood. You have the liberty to use a brush instead of a broom. Step 6: You have to finalize the restoration with teak oil or teak coat since you make a coat that will protect the teak from the elements. However, some cleaners with useful chemicals dry out in a matter of days so you have to be patient. Until then, you have to wait before you apply the last protective coating. For application, it can be done by utilizing a foam brush or varnish applicator. The number of layers depends on the finish that you prefer. Re-apply as needed to achieve what visual concept you want for your boat. The previous coating of teak oil should be dried first before applying another layer. Read instructions first before application. At present, teak coating for long-lasting shine is not yet available. Apply it every month to meet your desire to have a lustrous teak wood in your boat. If you’re conscious about the ingredients in teak cleaners sold in the market, you can make one at home. Mix 75% detergent and 25% chlorine to create a teak cleaner. It’s not bad if you’re picky in choosing the substance, just like when picking chlorine bleach with trisodium phosphate. It’s for gaining extra punch when you’re looking for a strong effect. What you can gain from using teak oil is not just protection but beautification as well. It brings out the teak’s natural beauty and pattern as well as the oil in it. Teak oils are made from various kinds of oil. But most of them are from linseed and tung oil. Linseed is affordable and it gives the teak a darker shade. The one with tung is more expensive, but it has resistance against water. Manufacturers treat teak oils for mildew fighters, UV filters, and other additives that promote protection. Thus, you get numerous benefits from applying it. Teak wood, just like the other parts of your boat, is exposed to marine pollutants. But the good news is that you can still restore it. There may be several processes and necessary things but it’s worth investing in it. With this simplified guide on how to restore teak wood on a boat, things became clear to you. Even so, the information helps you better understand the proper handling of teak wood to not further damage its appearance. I am passionate about water sports and technical fields, so combining both makes me interested in making contents about boat accessories. With my partner, we went on many trips and sports games together, which led us to think about how we can spread our joys and passions to many people. Bahasa Indonesia Slovenščina Science & Tech Russian Kitchen Omsk: Western Siberia's hidden gem A city view of Omsk. Source: Dmitry Feoktistov Omsk was founded in 1716 when a wooden fort was constructed to house a Cossack unit in the area to protect the expanding Russian frontier from Central Asian nomadic incursions. It served various administrative functions throughout the 1800s and became infamous as a place of exile and incarceration. The city was rundown when selected as a hub for the Trans-Siberian railway in the 1890s. Many international trade companies and foreign consulates relocated here and the remnants of their offices can still be found in the city today. The mystery of Kolchak’s gold Omsk became the headquarters of the anti-Bolshevik white army led by Admiral Aleksandr Kolchak in 1918. In late 1918 there was a revolt in the city initiated by a leftist faction (Socialist Revolutionary Party or SPs) with 500 rebel deaths at the hands of Cossacks and Czechoslovak soldiers, a major factor in convincing the SPs to join the Bolsheviks. There is a large Soviet-era monument to the uprising at the corner of Lenina street and Broz Tito street.   Kolchak was entrusted with a large portion of the Tsarist’s gold reserves, yet amazingly lost much of it. Supposedly 250 million rubles were lost (about $8 million at the time). Legend has it that they were buried near the village of Taiga, yet numerous excavations have turned up nothing. The area still attracts the occasional fortune seeker. Kolchak’s headquarters are located at what is today the  Omsk Regional Archives  at Broz Tito St., 3. Nothing shows how much times have changed as the imposing Kolchak statue that was unveiled in 2012 around the corner. The statue guards  Kolchak restaurant , a four-story culinary complex featuring a steak house, an Irish pub, a Central Asian café and an Italian eatery.  For more details on where and how to dig Kolchak's gold, see  Top Ten Mysterious Lost Treasures of Russia Dostoevsky and the Tsar At 1.15 million people Omsk dwarfs the region’s second largest city, Tara (population 28,000). The city is split by the River Irtysh into two sections (all places of interest are on the right bank) with downtown emanating from the River Om. Most foreigners have heard of Omsk via writer Fyodor Dostoevsky who spent four years here as a prisoner (1849-1853). He spent most of his time in Omsk in squalor and chains and with no books besides the Bible, however, it left an indelible mark on his memory and influenced his future literary output. There is a statue of the writer in chains grasping a Bible at the corner of Partizanskaya and Spartakovskaya streets, where Dostoevsky undoubtedly stepped many times. A  museum dedicated to the author's time in Omsk  is located nearby at Dostoevskogo St. 1. The local university is also named for him. A view of the Assumption Cathedral, Omsk. Source: Lori/Legion-Media Tarskaya Street is one of the city’s oldest thoroughfares. It features a monument to victims of Stalinist repressions and the Tara gates, originally built in 1792 as one of the four entrances to the Omsk fort. Nearby stands the Assumption Cathedral, one of the largest churches in Siberia. Future Tsar Nicholas II laid the first stone here in 1891 when making his way back to St. Petersburg after his Eastern journey. In Omsk you are never more than a few steps from the village, made clear when one exits the center to the north, where most houses are wooden and roads unpaved. Stroll along Bulatova and Rabinovicha streets, a well-preserved ensemble of wooden architecture. Omsk’s cultural heritage  The Pushkin State Library is worth a look with busts of Russian literary figures adorning the front side of the building. At the corner under the big “M” is one of several stations of the never completed Omsk metro. Construction began in 1992, but as of 2014 the project is again dormant due to financing problems. One of Omsk’s most famous sons is Symbolist painter Mikhail Vrubel (1856-1910). Vrubel ignored contemporary trends and focused on themes from fairy tales, demons and religious subjects and also designed a majolica frieze for the Metropol Hotel in Moscow. Omsk’s Fine Arts Museum is named for him and features a number of  his works . Milhail Vrubel's painting 'Demon Seated in a Garden' (1890) Over the years a number of tourists have tripped over the monument to Stepanych. This bust of a plumber rising from a sewer was the idea of Omsk’s former mayor after a trip to Slovakia in the 1990s. Stepanych has become one of the symbols of the city. Omsk is a hockey town, with one of the major teams,  Avangard , in the KHL, Russia’s premiere professional league. Russian champions on several occasions, check out a match at Omsk Arena. But if you can’t catch a game there’s a large kiosk featuring the team’s merchandise at the airport. Siberian   punk, jazz and the classics While Omsk may not be on everyone’s radar musically, it does host a  musical theater  built just after the war. The building on 10 Let Oktyabrya Street is in the form of an enormous sloping grand piano. A monument to Stepanych, Lenina Street, Omsk. Photo credit: RIA Novosti/Pavel Lisitsyn  Perhaps Russia’s most famous punk band,  Grazhdanskaya oborona  (Civil Defence), was formed here in 1982. The band was active until 2008 when lead singer Yegor Letov died of heart failure at age 43. Letov is buried at the Staro-Vostochnoe cemetery. A sprawling graveyard with thousands of graves, fans should stop at the administration for help in locating his grave. In Russia, Omsk is known among the younger, tech-savvy generation primarily because of the “Omsk bird,” also known as Winged Doom. The origin of what became one of Russia’s most ubiquitous memes comes from a painting by German artist Heiko  Müller. One day in 2009 an Internet user posted this painting with the line, “Welcome to Omsk,” at the top. Additional versions menace viewers stating, “Don't try to leave Omsk,” and “Omsk is closer than you think.” Like many popular memes on the Internet, this one went viral and has become something like an unofficial symbol of the city. All rights reserved by Rossiyskaya Gazeta. to our newsletter! Get the week's best stories straight to your inbox This website uses cookies. Click here to find out more. Crash of a Tupolev TU-104B in Omsk 436 IMAGES Ep: 1 Restoring Old Sailboat 38] Restoring OLD TEAK & Decks How to Restore Teak on a Boat Restoring Sailboat Teak (Ep73) Restoring Teak Restorations VIDEO Restoring Boat Teak #boatrestoration JustTeak: How To Clean and Protect Teak on a Boat Restoring An Old Sailboat: Wooden Teak And Fiberglass Weekly Recap: Restoring An Old Vintage Sailboat For Sailing Around The Hawaiian Islands 9.2-TEAK RESTORE-TOE RAIL 1980 Catalina 30 Sailboat Teak Trim Sanding and Teak Oil Refinishing Project COMMENTS How to Restore Teak Wood on Boats 1. Wet the teak down; 2. Apply part one (the caustic), spreading and lightly scrubbing with a bristle brush; 3. When the surface is a uniform wet, muddy brown, apply the second part (the acid), spreading with a clean bristle brush; 4. Apply and spread enough of the acid to turn the teak a uniform tan; 5. Restoring Teak Each kit includes a teak scrubber for easier teak cleaning. Application instructions: Wet the area to be cleaned, then apply Part 1 full strength and agitate with provided scrubber; let sit for 10 minutes, then rinse. Apply Part 2, agitate for final dirt and grease removal, let set for 15 minutes and rinse thoroughly. How to Restore Teak on a Boat Wet down the teak. Apply "one-part cleaner", dispersing and gently scrubbing with a soft brush. When the surface of the teak is a muddy brown, uniform wet, apply "Two-part cleaner", dispersing with clean stiffed brush. Apply and disperse the acid required to turn teak into a uniform tan. Sailboat Restoration (Complete How To Teak Restoration|Timelapse Our sailboat restoration continues as we completely restore the teak wood in our cockpit (and eventually all the wood on deck). We have a friend a few boats ... Refinish Your Interior Teak To Better Than New Here are the basic steps that I follow to refinish interior teak: 1. If the wood has never been refinished or if the existing finish is in poor condition, remove all of the parts from the sailboat so that you can work on them easier and apply the finish to all the surfaces. BEFORE - dull and dirty. 2. Restore Your Exterior Teak to Better Than New It leaves a hard, glossy finish. Apply the first coat of varnish thinned with the manufacturer's recommended thinner by 50%, followed by one coat thinned 25%, one coat thinned 10%, and two coats unthinned. This technique makes the varnish soak into the wood and fills the grain for a smoother finish. How to Clean and Restore Teak Wood Step 2: How to Brighten Teak Wood. Use a soft bristle brush to apply Part B, and scrub lightly across the grain. As you scrub, you'll notice the teak begin to lighten in color. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water to remove all residue from Part B. Remember to scrub while rinsing to help remove the brightener completely. Restoring Sailboat Teak (Ep73) This episode I'm restoring sailboat teak from the interior of my Skipper 20 pocket sailboat. When you restore an old sailboat, its important to refinish the ... A Complete Guide to Teak Maintenance on Your Sailboat Smooth sailing with sanding. Most boaters with a teak deck consider it a standard practice to sand the surface once a year before the start of a season. Sandpapers come in various grits—for a teak deck, between 80 and 120-grit is the ideal level. The higher the number of grit, the more slippery the deck will be, so a medium level is suitable ... Boat Teak Restoration Services 2. Revitalizing Your Teak's Natural Beauty: Over time, marine teak can become weathered, dull, and lose its characteristic golden hue. Our restoration services involve thorough cleaning, sanding, and refinishing, revealing the natural warmth and rich tones that make teak a timeless choice for boat decking. 3. Preservation for the Long Haul ... A Teak Restoration How-To The critical last step of your restoration should be applying a teak oil and sealer. If you skip this step, your great looking restored teak surface will return to its weathered look. Be sure your teak is completely dry before you apply the oil and sealer. We suggest using BoatLife's Teak Oil & Sealer. Our oil is the most advanced teak oil ... 38] Restoring TEAK & Decks This week we restore the brightwork and teak decks on our Tayana 37. See our teak transform from grey and neglected to honey-coloured and varnished.SUBSCRIBE... Replacing Teak Decks, the DIY-er's Way 2. Springing the outer frame into place with wooden wedge driven between the plank and a temporary block screwed to the deck. The screw hole can be filled with epoxy before bonding the next plank. 3. Stern corner with planks led into the inner panel at the radius of the cockpit corner. Teak Restoration and Treatment 4. Wash Starke part A off teak thoroughly with fresh water. 5. Repeat same process for Starke part B and rinse thoroughly with fresh water. 6. After Starke products have been applied and rinsed. Wash entire area with mild soap and soft brush to ensure all product is removed from teak and surrounding gel coat. Restore teak in Cabin Sealing the underside of teak is usually unnecessary. The only reason to seal it is to prevent moisture from entering the wood and then lifting the varnish. This can happen on large pieces of teak (or any wood) that is flat and often wet. Toe rails and wood coamings are the biggest culprits followed by handrails. How to Restore Teak on Your Boat Wet down, then sprinkle on the cleaner, spreading evenly over the teak with a bronze wool pad (steel wool leaves rust particles). Let the cleaner sit for a couple minutes, then scrub with the bronze wool pad. Rinse off and allow to dry. Two-part cleaners are the most effective, but contain a strong acid and should be used as a last resort. How to Restore Teak Wood on a Boat Fortunately, there are several steps you can take to restore teak wood on a boat and bring back its original shine and luster. This article will discuss the steps involved in restoring teak wood on a boat. Contents [hide] Step 1: Inspecting the Teak Wood. Step 2: Cleaning Process. Step 3: Sanding the Teak Wood. How to Restore Teak Wood on a Boat? The Most Detailed Guide Step 1: Begin the initial cleaning on the floor made of teak wood. Wet the area first, then directly apply the regular powdered soap or the laundry soap. After that, thoroughly scrub the surface to practice an outstanding way of cleaning. Step 2: Next, you can use the one-part teak cleaner. How to Refinish Teak Wood on a Boat How to Refinish Teak Wood on a Boat | Restoring Teak Wood ... Omsk: Western Siberia's hidden gem Omsk was founded in 1716 when a wooden fort was constructed to house a Cossack unit in the area to protect the expanding Russian frontier from Central Asian nomadic incursions. It served various ... Crash of a Tupolev TU-104B in Omsk Circumstances: While descending to Omsk Airport, the crew encountered poor weather conditions and low visibility due to snow showers. On final, as he was unable to locate the runway, the captain abandoned the approach and initiated a go-around. Three other attempts to land were abandoned within the next minutes. Omsk Region in the Soviet Union, 1920-1992 Omsk City coat of arms, 1973-1996 image by Igor Pavlovsky, 08 May 1999 . The shield and year 1716 signify the city's foundation as a fortress in 1716. Two rivers, Irtysh (large) and Om' (small), at the confluence of which the fortress was founded, are represented by blue stripes. THE 15 BEST Things to Do in Omsk Oblast (2024) 10. Omsk State Museum of History and Regional Studies. 52. History Museums. Established in 1878, this museum safeguarded valuable collections during World War II and, after the war, expanded its holdings to reflect the region's rapid social development, economic achievements…. 11. catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht