small sailboat roller furling

Product Reviews

Harken Roller Furlers

Tending headsails from the cockpit

From Issue   February 2021

T here’s no easier way to douse a jib than with roller furling, and Harken, with a line of small-boat furlers, has brought the ease and convenience normally employed by larger boats within reach of small-boat sailors. Unlike furlers on larger boats, which use a rigid foil that spins to furl the sail, Harken’s small-boat series uses stainless wire for the forestay, simplifying the setup and lowering the cost. These small furling drums are available in both conventional single line and the newer endless-line style.

This hoistable swivel, used here with the conventional furler drum, is installed over the forestay for a regular hanked-on sail to be hoisted and furled. In this picture, the peak of the sail is attached via a pendant—the gray Dyneema and red lashing line—to set the jib peak below the jumper stays, so they do not interfere with it. The sail will be hoisted with the blue halyard attached to the swivel.

With the conventional furler, pulling on a jibsheet unfurls the sail and pulling on the 4mm furler line furls it; the latter doesn’t spool line, so the line can be thicker and easier on the hands. While the conventional drums work perfectly fine, the endless-line type can handle a larger sail and provide finer control over the rotation of the tack, allowing one to fully unfurl the sail without relying on the sheet tension, and helping to overcome any curl that may be induced into a sail that has spent significant time tightly rolled on the furler.

This endless-line furler on a bowsprit will be attached to a straight-luffed code-zero spinnaker. The peak of the sail will be equipped with a swivel. This type of furler isn’t limited by the amount of line it can coil, making it more versatile for larger sails than the conventional furler.

The endless-line type can also be used to furl some of the more straight-luffed flying sails, such as code-zero spinnakers or gennakers common on beach cats and multihulls, and would be more suited toward jib setups under less tension, such as jibs used on traditional rigs with unstayed masts.

These Harken furlers employ the drum at the tack, a wire installed into the sail’s luff, and a swivel at the head of the sail. The luff wire becomes the forestay, and this combination is spun to furl the sail. This configuration is ideal for smaller trailerable sloops (where the mast is removed for trailering) and boats with traditional unstayed rigs, but makes it impossible to change or remove the sail without disconnecting the forestay on boats that rely on forestay tension to support the mast.

On these boats with tensioned standing rigging, a slightly more complicated setup can be used to enable sail changes without disconnecting the forestay. In this configuration, the furler is installed at the base of the forestay and a swivel is installed at the top. The forestay connects these, and a sliding hollow swivel is installed over the forestay. When installed in this manner, the tack of the sail is attached to a fitting at the furler drum, and the head is attached to the hollow, hoistable swivel. The sail is hanked onto the forestay as usual, and the hoistable swivel is hoisted by the jib halyard. While slightly more expensive and complicated, this setup enables sail changes and allows you to set the jib halyard tension independently of the forestay tension.

One important thing to note is that these furlers do not enable roller reefing as there is nothing to prevent the head and tack from furling and unfurling unequally and, therefore, sail shape cannot be maintained on a partially furled sail. Modifications may be necessary to your sail in the form of a different luff arrangement that incorporates a stainless-steel wire or high-tech Dyneema line to strengthen and stiffen the luff. If the sail will be left furled and hoisted for extended periods, UV protection to the sail’s foot and leech is a recommended addition.

Robert Hodge lives aboard a 42′ sailboat in Seattle, and cruises Puget Sound on his 1960s wooden Lightning that has been restored and extensively modified. He works seasonally in commercial ship repair in local shipyards and in the retail store at Fisheries Supply. He is a veteran of two first-leg Race to Alaska attempts and has plans to compete in the full R2AK in 2021.

  Harken’s full range of small-boat furlers is available in individual pieces and in kits. A basic setup for a low-load application runs a little over $300, and the more heavy-duty ones come in at around $750.

Is there a product that might be useful for boatbuilding, cruising, or shore-side camping that you’d like us to review? Please email your suggestions.

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Comments (5)

Great article. We have several small-boat furlers but weren’t familiar with the hollow sliding swivel or continuous-line furler. And while our Drascombe Lugger or Day Sailler rigs are not set up for “roller reefing,” no one has told Skipper, she always uses the furler to reef the jib out and in as we depart and return to the boat ramp, pretty as a picture. Once we crawl away from the dock under a scrap of jib on the Lugger I can raise the main, and she uses the jib furler like a throttle as we glide back in, having it perfectly furled when she stops the boat one inch from the dock. Magic! We really enjoy the peace that a jib furler provides, no jib flapping at the dock, and the peace of mind of not having to go forward to tend the jib. Our friend Webb says he considers a jib furler an essential piece of gear when singlehanding small boats. Thanks for the great bit of knowledge. Cheers, Kent and Audrey

I am interested in learning why reefing the jib is difficult. I have a 16′ sloop nearing completion and would love that feature as the jib is a pretty large overlapping size (120%).

Thanks for information

I installed my first jib furler on my little 21′ cutter. To use it, I couldn’t hank the Yankee jib to the headstay, so it had to be free flying. Luff tension came from winching the halyard with a “handy billy,” or little portable block and tackle. With this arrangement, you have to remember not to furl–or rather try to furl–while you are headed down wind. The jib wants to wrap itself around the headstay, which can lead to exciting moments if you do this in a rising wind.

I loved that Yankee jib, by the way. As soon as it started flying, you could feel the added power, and the instant increase in speed. It was the most powerful sail on the boat (which also had staysail and main).

Not having enough experience or good enough balance tend the jib on my CLC Passage Maker dinghy, I made my own roller-furling thingee from a wire spool and some swivels. This is a 12′ pram, sloop rigged. One swivel above the jib and a plastic spool mounted below, with the other swivel below the spool. Pull the jib sheets to set the sail, pull on the spooled line to furl it, make fast with a jam cleat. I have no other product to compare it to, having never used one before, but it works fine and costs less than $25 total.

I would like to attach a self furling jib to my Lightning. Looking for advice on what type and best way for mounting on the deck. Any other advice would be helpful. Thanks

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• Sailing, Rigging & Deck

Sailing made easy: Everything you need to know about roller furling systems

What does a furling system on board sailing yachts do? A furling system allows you to set, recover and partially reef your foresail (genoa or jib) conveniently and practically from the cockpit. These systems are now fitted as standard on most sailing boats thanks to the ease and effectiveness of the system and greater safety when furling and setting. Find out everything there is to know about roller furling systems in this SVB guide: what they are, the main differences, features and advantages, which ones to choose, how they work and why to have them on board.

Roller Furling Systems for Sailboats

• Advantages of a furling system
• How it works
• The ideal furling system

Installation and Maintenance

• Retrofitting
• Maintenance

Ultimate sailing convenience: The advantages of roller furling systems on sailboats

The use of furling systems has undoubtedly revolutionised cruising and regatta sailing since they first became available some years ago. These practical systems allow the sail to be furled without time-consuming hoisting or lowering each time you go sailing. Using a practical furling system, the foresail can be easily furled from the cockpit, without you or your crew risking life or injury on deck, as it eliminates the need for a crewmember to manually change or reef the jib or genoa. A furling system is certainly an efficient, easy and enjoyable way to deploy or stow sails on a yacht. However, whether or not such a system is appropriate for you largely depends on the size of your vessel and the sort of sailing boat you own.

Nevertheless, the obvious benefits outweigh the disadvantages, which is why a furling system is now standard equipment on almost all sailing yachts. The convenience of not having to recover, set, change or stow your sail is a big advantage! A roller furling system minimises or eliminates the need to carry additional headsails, resulting in not only increased room below deck, but also the removal of the laborious task of lowering and removing your jib or genoa after each voyage.

Roller reefing is useful when overlapping genoas obscure visibility. By reefing the genoa a few turns you can have a clearer view ahead leeward, which shortens the sail and increases visibility - important for safety and peace of mind. A furling system allows you to reef the headsail completely or partially. This way, even if you don't have experienced crew members on board, you can still safely manoeuvre your boat and cope with any wind gusts.

Roller Furling

How does a furling system work?

Roller furling - how it works.

A roller furling system allows you to roll or wrap your foresail around the headstay. This not only makes sailing easier, but also improves safety by allowing reefing without the crew having to go on deck in bad weather. To understand how to use a roller furling system, it's first important to know how it works, what specific steps to take when using it and to observe important safety measures. Using a roller furling systems is a relatively straight forward affair, but correctly furling the staysail is not as easy as it may first seem!

The setup of a roller furling system consists of a wire, foil, or spar around which the sail is spun. This is controlled by a furling line that is pulled or released from the cockpit. The foil is actually an aluminium track, up which the sail is fed all the way to the top. At the top of the track and at the bottom, the sail is on a swivel, which allows the sail to spin out while a drum rotates. The drum takes up the extra slack from the furling line as the sail is opened by pulling gently on the sheet and is furled by pulling the furling line. It is advisable to keep slight back tension on the sail while furling by leaving one wrap of the sheet on the winch. Pull the furling line to wrap the sail tightly around the forestay/headstay. To partially furl (reef) the sail, pull the furling line until the desired size of the headsail is reached, then belay the line. The headsail can thus be continuously adjusted to any size.

During furling or unfurling you should maintain a light pull on the sheet and furling line at all times. This keeps the furling line neatly spun and unspun around the drum and reduces the risk of an "override", where the furling line binds on itself and makes further unfurling difficult. Take special care that the furling line is of the correct length. It should still be able to make about 3 to 5 turns around the drum after the sail is fully furled and pulled tight. Generally, the optimum length is between one and a half and two times the length of your boat.

Ensure that the foresail halyard maintains an angle of 5° to 10° to the forestay when the sail is set on the furling system. To ensure proper reefing system function, the halyard must not run parallel to the forestay. Pay particular attention to the specifications in the assembly instructions. Alternatively, special fairlead blocks can be installed to allow the desired angle.

If the drum of the roller furling system gets in the way of manoeuvring the anchor at the bow, it can be raised with an eye/fork extension or two stainless steel chain-plates attached via a hinge to the mainsail at the bow.

How do I choose the right roller furling system for my boat?

If you want to install a furling system on your boat, there are a few things to consider first. This includes the size and weight of your boat, the area of the headsail and the diameter and length of the forestay. In order to find the right furling system, most manufacturers offer general guidance based on a boat’s overall length and class.

Having instant control of the sail with maximum surface area, as well as the capacity to navigate larger boats with a high level of safety and control, especially while sailing solo, are strong reasons that have impressed boat owners all over the world for many years. A clear view ahead, as well as the ability to recover and set sail fast, add to the appeal of furling systems.

Roller furlers are safe and convenient, but they are also heavy systems that can inevitably cause forestay sag. If sag is too much, it will affect sailing performance, especially when the wind picks up, but also in particular when sailing upwind. In addition to adjusting the backstay, some rig types also allow the tension of the upper shrouds to be increased in order to influence the leeward slope.

How can I retrofit a roller furling system?

The first thing to do before you start to fit your roller furling system is to familiarise yourself with the installation manual. It contains detailed and illustrated instructions that will enable you to assemble a roller furling system correctly. It should be noted, however, that the assembly steps may vary depending on the model and on the profile configuration and the number of parts to be installed.

The manufacturers PROFURL , NEMO and FURLEX offer comprehensive instructions on how to install a roller furling system. Take a good look and then decide for yourself whether you think you can install the system on your own. If in doubt, please get help from friends and/or boat neighbours who have already carried out such an installation. Local sailmakers and service providers in the harbours are also happy to provide guidance and tips. Please also bear in mind that the existing headsails must be adapted to the requirements of the furling system. This work can only be carried out by a specialist company (sailmaker). Although some manufacturers allow upright mounting as an option, we always recommend that you mount your furling system in a horizontal position. Do this especially if your vessel is in winter storage, as it ensures better stability and potential loads on the mast can be reduced.

Does a furling system require regular maintenance?

Furling systems are designed to minimise the need for maintenance and servicing. Nevertheless, this does not mean that maintenance is totally unnecessary. If you want to maintain the functionality and efficiency of your furling system, regular maintenance should be carried out.

To maintain full functionality of your roller furling system, you should clean it regularly with fresh water to remove salt deposits and dust from the drum and the inside. Some roller furlers require additional lubrication during operation. Be sure to follow the instructions in the user manual.

Further reading: Roller Furling Systems, Jib Furlers and Accessories

Don't compromise on the quality of your new foresail furling system. Even if you are on a tight budget - SVB has the right product for you! Discover our selection of NEMO , PROFURL and FURLEX foresail furling systems in various sizes - all available for you to select according to boat type, forestay diameter and length. In our categories Roller Furlers, Jib Furlers & Accessories you will not only find high-quality furling systems, but also matching accessories, such as drums, swivels and profiles from brands like PFEIFFER , TOP-REFF , BARTON and OLEU WATERSPORTS all at unbeatable prices! Are you looking for individual spare parts for your FURLEX roller furling system? No problem! Check out our spare parts finder for FURLEX furling systems !

Accessories

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How to Choose a Furling System

Choosing the right furling system is essential for safe and easy sailing. Furling systems can keep you dry and reduce your sailing workload.

In this article, we'll cover the most popular types of furling systems, their benefits, and their drawbacks. We'll also provide information to help you decide which furling system works best for your boat, your sailplan layout, and your vessel type.

The most common types of roller furling systems are the head swivel, the wire luff, and the internal halyard. Head swivel systems are the most popular and ideal for general-purpose use, while internal halyards are the most economical. Wire luffs are ideal for hanked-on headsails, and they're also less expensive than head swivel systems.

The information in this article is sourced directly from furling system manufacturers and distributors. Additionally, we spoke with sailors who have installed and used various types of roller furling systems on their boats.

Table of contents

What is a Roller Furling System?

A roller furling system is designed to make it easy to deploy and adjust your headsail. The most common kind of roller furling system attaches to a jib sail and allows the operator to deploy and stow the entire sail from the cockpit.

Roller furling systems eliminate the need to go on deck to reef the headsail, which is especially useful in rough weather or when short-staffed. It allows you to quickly adjust the power of your boat in unpredictable windy conditions, and it's more precise than traditional horizontal reefing points.

In its most basic form, a roller furling is a set of spindles controlled from the cockpit. You hoist up the headsail between the spindles, which you can rotate in or out using a line. When actuated, the spindles roll up the headsail around the halyard.

Many roller furling systems work with your existing forestay, but some require you to install a new forestay. If you have a common sailboat, such as a fiberglass sailboat produced in the last 50 years, you should be able to install a roller furling system without much trouble or modification.

Parts of a Typical Roller Furling System

Roller furling systems have a few more components than a traditional headsail setup, but deploying sails with a furling system isn't that complicated. The furling unit itself mounts just aft of the forestay and roughly positions the headsail in its usual location.

The most notable part of the roller furling system is the furling drum, located at the base of the mechanism on the deck. The furling drum attaches to a chainplate aft of the forestay. In many cases, this is the same chain plate that the forestay itself attaches to.

The furling drum is responsible for controlling the roller furling system. is this where the control line wraps around, and it's important to position it properly.

The wire halyard is mounted directly to the top of the furling drum. This line extends close to the top of the mast and supports the tack of the headsail. Small cloth clasps called jib hanks run along the length of the wire halyard when the head sale is deployed. Jib hanks secure the sale to the wire and prevent uneven load from damaging the canvas.

The Wire halyard attaches to another smaller swivel closer to the top of the mast. This connection is known as the top swivel, and it is much smaller than the furling drum. Typically, a spacer disc mounts to the top of this swivel. The disc acts as a buffer between the top swivel and the shackle.

The shackle, which connects to the swivel through the spacer disc, is connected to your existing jib halyard. From this point, the hoisting system remains as it was before installing a roller furling.

Types of Furling Systems

There are three main types of roller furling systems, and they share many similarities. The primary types of roller furling systems available today are the head swivel furling, the wire luff furling, and the internal halyard furling. Here are the basic traits of these systems and some of the advantages of each type.

Head Swivel Furling System

The head swivel furling is by far the most common roller furling system used today. It's simple to operate, easy to maintain, and robust. It's a standard furling system that mounts just aft of the head stay and incorporates your existing headsail halyard.

Head swivel furling systems utilize two spindles; a drum located at the deck level and another smaller spindle located just past the top of the headsail. It uses ball bearings or smooth and easy rotation and generally stands up well to the elements.

The sail itself attaches to a wire halyard with hanks and then to the drum at the base of the system. The drum is rotated using a line that runs to an eyelet on a deck to the cockpit.

To deploy a jib or genoa using a head swivel furling, simply untie the furling line and unroll the headsail using the jibsheet. Reefing is also easy. Simply adjust the amount of sail using the same method, and roll it in and out as needed.

Head Swivel Furling Benefits

Head swivel furling systems are extremely easy to use. Operation is intuitive, and their lack of complex parts makes them almost trouble-free. Additionally, there is a wealth of knowledge about these popular systems online and in sailing communities. Chances are you'll find someone who knows how to repair head swivel furling systems virtually anywhere.

Head swivel furling systems work with your existing halyard, which means they're easy to deploy. Changing headsails is quick and simple as well, which is not always the case with roller furling systems. Head swivels with most jib and genoa sails, so you won't need any custom canvas to use one.

From a performance perspective, the head swivel system is most advantageous and efficient. That's why these systems are so common on race boats and trans-oceanic cruising vessels. The head swivel system is also the most reliable roller furling available today.

Head Swivel Furling Drawbacks

From a purely mechanical perspective, the head swivel furling system doesn't really have any drawbacks. Many would argue that it's the best furling system available today. That said, head swivel furling systems are quite costly. It's not uncommon to pay upwards of $1,000 for a complete full-size head swivel furling set.

Wire Luff Furling System

The wire luff furling system is a flexible way to control your headsail from the cockpit. Unlike the head swivel furling, a wire luff furling system is easily removable and designed to be stowed when not in use. Wire luff furling systems are popular on smaller boats and coastal cruising vessels.

From the bottom, a wire luff furling system closely resembles a head swivel furling system. It features a prominent rotating drum that mounts to a chainplate just aft of the forestay. It also uses a swivel that attaches to a standard halyard, allowing you to use your existing headsail rigging.

The wire luff furling system is simple and easy to install. It is often used by people who don't always need a quick, easy way to unfurl and reef the headsail. It's popular boats that use a variety of different headsails, as wire luff systems can accommodate multiple types of canvas.

Smaller sailboats, such as dinghies, often utilize wire luff furling systems due to their ease of installation and simple operation. Wire luff furling systems also work well with basic sale plans such as the simplified Bermuda rig.

Wire Luff Furling Benefits

One of the main benefits of the wire luff furling system is that it doesn't require any specific kind of hanked sail. Nonetheless, it can be used with hanked or non-hanked sails. The system is versatile and ideal for vessels with multiple headsail types at their disposal.

Sailors also appreciate how easy it is to install and remove wire luff furling systems. It sets up in minutes and doesn't require much modification to install. It sits behind the forestay, which means you don't have to compromise any standing rigging to install or operate a roller system.

Additionally, wire luff furling systems are highly affordable. You can obtain a complete set for less than half the price of a premium head swivel furling system. It's an excellent introduction to roller furling systems, and it's inexpensive enough to justify purchasing one to enhance your cruising capabilities.

Wire Luff Furling Drawbacks

Although it's a proven design, wire luff furling systems have some notable drawbacks. One of the most notable disadvantages of the wire left for a living system is that it's virtually impossible to reef the sale when it's under heavy wind stress.

This means that when you need to reef the headsail in high winds, you might not be able to. This is a problem, as it negates one of the primary benefits of having a roller furling, to begin with.

Additionally, the performance of head swivel furling systems is superior to that of wire luff types. Sails have a tendency to sag on wire luff systems as they don't provide as much lateral support or structure to the canvas.

Wire luff furling systems are not as durable as the head swivel varieties, which means they are not as suitable for offshore cruising or racing. That said, they are robust enough to be used in most conditions.

Internal Halyard Furling System

The internal halyard furling system is unique amongst the other two varieties. Unlike wire luff and head swivel furling systems, the internal halyard system actually utilizes the forestay.

With an internal halyard system, the forestay passes through the spindle drum, which operates just like any other bottom-up furling system. The use of the forestay simplifies the system and utilizes deck space better. The spindle drum is bulkier than other units, but it sits further ahead than wire luff and head swivel systems.

Internal Halyard Furling Benefits

Internal halyard roller furling systems are inexpensive and highly reliable. They work with a wide variety of sails, and they take up very little space. Fewer components mean fewer problems, so they're popular with long-range cruising boats. Because the headsail now rides along with the forestay, the halyard can be used to raise light air sails such as spinnakers and gennakers.

Internal Halyard Furling Drawbacks

Like the wire luff furling system, internal halyard systems are difficult to control in high winds. Under load, you won't be able to reef the sail easily. Additionally, it's difficult to control the tension of the halyard with this system. Installation can be challenging, as it requires you to manipulate your standing rigging.

Bottom-Up vs. Top-Down Furling

Initially, all furling systems were bottom-up. This changed when more advanced headsails were developed for light wind. Here's the primary difference between bottom-up and top-down roller furling systems.

Bottom-Up Furling

Bottom-up furling is what most people would consider a standard roller furling system. The drum at the base is unrolled to unfurl the sail. When rolled up again, the sail begins to wrap around itself, starting at the base. This is how the majority of roller furling systems work for jib and genoa sails.

Top-Down Furling

The top-down furling system is a recent development that was designed to more effectively accommodate Code 0 sails and asymmetrical spinnakers. The top-down furling rolls the sail from the top down to the base. The base of the sail is free-floating and not directly furled by the drum.

Best Furling for Small Sailboats

The best furling system for small boats (under 20 feet in length) is the wire luff. This is because it's easy to install, and it works well with basic sail plans. Many small boats have used wire luff systems for years, and sailors agree that it's a user-friendly and reliable choice. The wire luff furling system is affordable and works well for training beginners.

Best Furling for Coastal Cruising Sailboats

The wire luff furling system works well for coastal cruisers, and so does the internal halyard. Internal halyard furling systems are compact, easy to handle in most conditions, and the drawbacks of the design are not particularly annoying in coastal environments.

The wire luff is the best choice for weekenders who sail in conditions where a roller furling isn't always necessary, as it can be stowed to more rapidly raise and lower the sails. This reduces rigging time but gives you the option to use a roller furling if you choose.

Best Furling for Offshore Cruising Sailboats

The obvious choice for offshore cruising sailboats is the popular head swivel furling system. The head swivel is the most robust roller furling available, and it allows you to quickly reef the headsail in all wind conditions. It's reliable, easy to maintain, and extremely strong. It does not involve standing rigging.

The head swivel furling system isn't easy to remove, but this doesn't matter on long-haul cruising boats. These systems are costly, but it's wise to invest in the best quality equipment if you're using your boat for long ocean passages.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Slide up Foils

Our interlocking aluminum foils ensure complete torsional strength.

No bolts or screws are necessary. A polypropylene bushing centers and prevents galvanic reactions between the stay and the foils.

Luff Feeds are available on both sides of the foils for two sails or simply as a spare.

Bearing Free Drum Assembly

The drum features an inner and outer section with a Delrin sleeve designed for permanent, lifelong durability. It contains no bearings and is constructed with no breakable parts.

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Every system is covered by our Lifetime Warranty .

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Our Alado systems cater to all types of sailing and sailboats.

The correct Alado model is determined by the stay's diameter and length.

Utilizing the SIZING TOOL will indicate the appropriate system for your boat and provide measurement instructions.

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30 Foot Roller Furling System. Installs from turnbuckle up. Use with 1/8" to 1/4" diameter rigging. Installs from deck, no climbing aloft. Model A0 | AD0007

Fits any maximum stay diameter of 1/4" and comes with all the parts needed to easily install from the deck on a sailboat with a maximum 30-foot forestay. See the Installation Guide HereThe Alado system is durable in all sailing & weather conditions.Our exclusive Dual Luff System is included and allows for the use of twin sails for downwind, port or starboard tack sailing, or just use with one sail!Lifetime WarrantyInstallation is very easy and requires no mast climbing. All assembly is done on deck. We suggest if you are ordering new sails to install the Alado first then measure for the sail.If you are converting from a hank on Jib, then check the luff diameter of the existing sail. If it is equivalent to the luff size show in the sizing chart, then consider removing the hanks and grommets. If it is larger, then change the luff tape.Allow 5 to 7 business days for shipping.

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35 Foot Roller Furling System. Installs from turnbuckle up. Use with 1/8" to 1/4" diameter rigging. Installs from deck, no climbing aloft. Model A1 | AD001

Fits any maximum stay diameter of 1/4" and comes with all the parts needed to easily install from the deck on a sailboat with a maximum 35-foot forestay. See the Installation Guide HereThe Alado system is durable in all sailing & weather conditions.Our exclusive Dual Luff System is included and allows for the use of twin sails for downwind, port or starboard tack sailing, or just use with one sail!Lifetime WarrantyInstallation is very easy and requires no mast climbing. All assembly is done on deck. We suggest if you are ordering new sails to install the Alado first then measure for the sail.If you are converting from a hank on Jib, then check the luff diameter of the existing sail. If it is equivalent to the luff size show in the sizing chart, then consider removing the hanks and grommets. If it is larger, then change the luff tape.Allow 5 to 7 business days for shipping.

40 Foot Roller Furling System. Installs from turnbuckle up. Use with 1/8" to 1/4" diameter rigging. Installs from deck, no climbing aloft. Model A2 | AD002

Fits any maximum stay diameter of 1/4" and comes with all the parts needed to easily install from the deck on a sailboat with a maximum 40-foot forestay. See the Installation Guide HereThe Alado system is durable in all sailing & weather conditions.Our exclusive Dual Luff System is included and allows for the use of twin sails for downwind, port or starboard tack sailing, or just use with one sail!Lifetime WarrantyInstallation is very easy and requires no mast climbing. All assembly is done on deck. We suggest if you are ordering new sails to install the Alado first then measure for the sail.If you are converting from a hank on Jib, then check the luff diameter of the existing sail. If it is equivalent to the luff size show in the sizing chart, then consider removing the hanks and grommets. If it is larger, then change the luff tape.Allow 5 to 7 business days for shipping.

50 Foot Roller Furling System. Installs from turnbuckle up. Use with 1/4" to 3/8" diameter rigging. Installs from deck, no climbing aloft. Model A3 | AD003

Fits any maximum stay diameter of 3/8" and comes with all the parts needed to easily install from the deck on a sailboat with a maximum 50-foot forestay. See the Installation Guide HereThe Alado system is durable in all sailing & weather conditions.Our exclusive Dual Luff System is included and allows for the use of twin sails for downwind, port or starboard tack sailing, or just use with one sail!Lifetime WarrantyInstallation is very easy and requires no mast climbing. All assembly is done on deck. We suggest if you are ordering new sails to install the Alado first then measure for the sail.If you are converting from a hank on Jib, then check the luff diameter of the existing sail. If it is equivalent to the luff size show in the sizing chart, then consider removing the hanks and grommets. If it is larger, then change the luff tape.Allow 5 to 7 business days for shipping.

55 Foot Roller Furling System. Installs from turnbuckle up. Use with 1/4" to 3/8" diameter rigging. Installs from deck, no climbing aloft. Model A4 | AD004

Fits any maximum stay diameter of 3/8" and comes with all the parts needed to easily install from the deck on a sailboat with a maximum 55-foot forestay. See the Installation Guide HereThe Alado system is durable in all sailing & weather conditions.Our exclusive Dual Luff System is included and allows for the use of twin sails for downwind, port, or starboard tack sailing, or just use with one sail!Lifetime WarrantyInstallation is very easy and requires no mast climbing. All assembly is done on deck. We suggest if you are ordering new sails to install the Alado first then measure for the sail.If you are converting from a hank on Jib, then check the luff diameter of the existing sail. If it is equivalent to the luff size show in the sizing chart, then consider removing the hanks and grommets. If it is larger, then change the luff tape.Allow 5 to 7 business days for shipping.

55 Foot Roller Furling System. Installs from turnbuckle up. Use with 7/16" to 1/2" diameter rigging. Installs from deck, no climbing aloft. Model B1 | AD005

Fits any 7/16" to 1/2" Stay Diameter and comes with all the parts needed to easily install from the deck on a sailboat with a maximum 55-foot forestay. See the Installation Guide HereThe Alado system is durable in all sailing & weather conditions.Our exclusive Dual Luff System is included and allows for the use of twin sails for downwind, port, or starboard tack sailing, or just use with one sail!Lifetime WarrantyInstallation is very easy and requires no mast climbing. All assembly is done on deck. We suggest if you are ordering new sails to install the Alado first then measure for the sail.If you are converting from a hank on Jib, then check the luff diameter of the existing sail. If it is equivalent to the luff size show in the sizing chart, then consider removing the hanks and grommets. If it is larger, then change the luff tape.Allow 5 to 7 business days for shipping.

65 Foot Roller Furling System. Installs from turnbuckle up. Use with 7/16" to 1/2" diameter rigging. Installs from deck, no climbing aloft. Model B2 | AD006

Fits any maximum stay diameter of 7/16" to 1/2" and comes with all the parts needed to easily install from the deck on a sailboat with a maximum 65-foot forestay. See the Installation Guide HereThe Alado system is durable in all sailing & weather conditions.Our exclusive Dual Luff System is included and allows for the use of twin sails for downwind, port, or starboard tack sailing, or just use with one sail!Lifetime Warranty Installation is very easy and requires no mast climbing. All assembly is done on deck. We suggest if you are ordering new sails to install the Alado first then measure for the sail.If you are converting from a hank on Jib, then check the luff diameter of the existing sail. If it is equivalent to the luff size show in the sizing chart, then consider removing the hanks and grommets. If it is larger, then change the luff tape.Allow 5 to 7 business days for shipping.

80 Foot Roller Furling System. Installs from turnbuckle up. Use with 1/2" to 9/16" diameter rigging. Installs from deck, no climbing aloft. Model B4 | AD008

Fits any maximum stay diameter of 9/16" and comes with all the parts needed to easily install from the deck on a sailboat with a maximum 80 foot forestay. See the Installation Guide HereThe Alado system is durable in all sailing & weather conditions.Our exclusive Dual Luff System is included and allows for the use of twin sails for downwind, port, or starboard tack sailing, or just use with one sail!Lifetime WarrantyInstallation is very easy and requires no mast climbing. All assembly is done on deck. We suggest if you are ordering new sails to install the Alado first then measure for the sail.If you are converting from a hank on Jib, then check the luff diameter of the existing sail. If it is equivalent to the luff size show in the sizing chart, then consider removing the hanks and grommets. If it is larger, then change the luff tape.Allow 5 to 7 business days for shipping.

75 Foot Roller Furling System. Installs from turnbuckle up. Use with 1/2" to 9/16" diameter rigging. Installs from deck, no climbing aloft. Model B3 | AD007

Fits any maximum stay diameter of 1/2" and comes with all the parts needed to easily install from the deck on a sailboat with a maximum 75-foot forestay. See the Installation Guide HereThe Alado system is durable in all sailing & weather conditions.Our exclusive Dual Luff System is included and allows for the use of twin sails for downwind, port, or starboard tack sailing, or just use with one sail!Lifetime Warranty Installation is very easy and requires no mast climbing. All assembly is done on deck. We suggest if you are ordering new sails to install the Alado first then measure for the sail.If you are converting from a hank on Jib, then check the luff diameter of the existing sail. If it is equivalent to the luff size show in the sizing chart, then consider removing the hanks and grommets. If it is larger, then change the luff tape.Allow 5 to 7 business days for shipping.

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Furler System Roller Units

Understanding Roller Furling Systems

General sailing articles

The use of  headsail Roller Furling and reefing systems on sailboats has increased dramatically over the past fifteen years.  When they first became available, they were viewed as a novelty by most of the sailing community.  Today however, almost every cruising boat, and even many racing boats are equipped with roller furling.

There are may types of furlers available today.  Some work well, and some are more temperamental.  In order to simplify this article, I will categorize them into three different styles:  the most common “head swivel” type, the “internal halyard” type, and the “wire luff” type.

The basic set up of the “wire luff” type of furling system is a removable swivel drum at the deck that attaches behind the forestay, a headsail with a wire luff (no hanks or luff tape), and a head swivel that attaches to the top of the sail and to the halyard.  This is the oldest of the furling designs.  The most common of these types are the old Schaeffer system and small boat furlers used on racing dinghies.  The advantages of this system are low cost, ability to use other “hanked-on” headsails.  The disadvantages however, are fairly substantial; the inability to reef, the inability to furl when the halyard is fully loaded, and the huge amounts of headstay sag.

The “internal halyard” type of system goes over the existing forestay, but does not use the jib halyard.  It has an internal halyard that slides down one groove of the system, while the luff of the sail slides up the second groove.  The advantages of this style of system is typically lower cost, no head swivel – no potential halyard wrap problems, keeps halyard free for cruising spinnaker.  The disadvantages are difficult to change halyard tension for sailshape control while sailing, compression load on extrusions can make furling difficult in high load situations, and it is difficult to change sails.

The most dependable type of systems are the “head swivel” style that have a lower drum, metal extrusions, and a ball bearing head swivel.  The sail is tacked down at the furling drum fed up into the groove in the extrusion, attached to the head swivel, and the jib halyard is attached to the top of the head swivel.  This is the most popular style of system (and more expensive) and offers the best furling performance.  It also offers easier headsail changes, and some systems are equipped to remove the drum, by-pass the head swivel, and use the system as a twin groove headstay for racing with full hoist headsails.

Furling systems are great, except when they do not work correctly.  The majority of problems that can cause “furling failure” are easily preventable, and often easily correctable.

See Trouble shooting Article

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• Digital edition

Headsail furling: how to choose the right system

• Rupert Holmes
• February 14, 2023

There is a huge range of headsail furling gear on the market. Rupert Holmes gives some tips for choosing the right system for your boat

Over the last five years, headsail furling systems have been fitted as standard on new yachts. A Facnor FD in use. Credit: Rupert Holmes Credit: Rupert Holmes

Headsail furling systems are ubiquitous, yet anyone who has to replace a damaged or worn-out system is faced with a bewildering range of options.

Granted, you could opt for the nearest like-for-like replacement, on the basis perhaps that there’s not likely to be much wrong with a system that has lasted for 20, 30 or even 40 years.

However, that may mean you’re buying a more expensive system than necessary.

Partially reefed genoa with poor sail shape. Credit: Rupert Holmes

For example there’s little point in paying a premium solely to get a double luff groove and removable drum if you never race fully crewed.

Having said that, twin grooves may be useful for setting twin poled out headsail s for cruisers intending to cross the Atlantic .

Equally, automatically choosing a like-for-like replacement may mean you miss out on more recent developments that can improve sail shape and reliability.

Recent headsail furling developments

One of the more interesting of these is the Facnor FD (flat deck) that uses webbing at the drum rather than rope .

This allows for a lower-profile drum that increases the luff length of the sail, making it more efficient.

It also increases the mechanical advantage (ie leverage) when you first start furling, so the operation requires less effort.

The way the webbing leads onto the drum all but eliminates the risk of over-riding turns if the sail is unfurled too fast.

Yet at the cockpit end you handle a rope of a comfortable diameter, as with any other system.

This Facnor FD swivel joins the webbing to the rope that’s used to handle the furling line in the cockpit. Credit: Rupert Holmes

And the Torlon bearings require no maintenance other than regular rinses with fresh water.

These benefits mean that over the past five or six years it has become standard fit on many new yachts, particularly in the performance cruising sector.

Having used one myself for the past six years the only downside I’ve found is the need to replace the furling tape – usually every two or three years.

Seldén’s Furlex systems are well proven and, like the Facnor FD, start by taking bulk out of the middle of the sail, which helps improve shape when it’s part reefed.

Facnor FD uses webbing to furl rather than rope

The fourth generation version is 8% lighter, reducing weight aloft, and comes in five sizes for boats from 18ft up to 30 tonnes displacement.

It’s also available in electric and hydraulic models and with a below-deck drum.

Harken’s systems for boats from 22-80ft are also now in their fourth generation and feature large, low friction bearings along with independent tack and head swivels that allow the middle of the luff to furl first for an improved sail shape.

The company has recently added Ocean furlers to the range, which have a single groove round foil that makes for easier furling at the expense of a marginal aerodynamic loss when the sail is fully unfurled.

Ocean units also have a fixed tack swivel and drum that cannot be removed for racing.

Continues below…

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I’ve also used Plastimo’s units, which have proved reliable over many years and can make a good budget option.

They are available in three sizes to suit boats from 14-36ft, with the largest retailing at well under £1,000.

However good your furling gear, it’s no secret that a deep reefed genoa will tend to set with a very inefficient shape.

Latest generation of Seldén’s Furlex 304S for boats up to 15 tonnes displacement

By the time a 130% or 140% overlapping headsail has been reefed down for strong winds a lot of the luff length is lost, which markedly reduces the sail’s efficiency.

In addition, the typical heavy UV strip on the luff and leech mean these areas gather bulk fastest as the sail is progressively reefed further and further.

This leads to a very deep shape in the middle of the luff, which leads to excessive heeling and weather helm .

Of course the effect can be reduced to some extent with foam (or rope) luff padding, furling systems that roll the centre of the sail first, and high tech sails with minimal stretch, but even then it can’t be eliminated in a deep reefed sail.

Twin forestays

Large bluewater yachts, typically those over 45ft, often have twin forestays with a genoa on the outer one and a smaller, higher aspect non-overlapping jib on the inner, with both set on roller furling gear.

This is an excellent arrangement that gives a large sail for light airs and reaching, plus one that will set efficiently in stronger winds and that’s easy to sheet in when short tacking.

Some new smaller performance cruisers have a similar arrangement, but use a free-flying furling sail on a halyard lock instead.

This means it can be rigged easily when needed, but is out of the way for the rest of the time.

Headsail furling gear for smaller boats: Plastimo 609 for boats from 20-30ft

Both these options would be clunky and expensive to retrofit on a smaller boat, but it’s relatively easy and inexpensive to replicate a similar set up using a removable Dyneema inner forestay.

Seldén sells a sensibly priced fitting for the mast for exactly this purpose.

The loads at the deck end of such a system should not be underestimated – on a 35ft boat a safe working load of several tonnes may be needed.

Therefore, simply bolting a fitting through the deck won’t suffice.

If you’re lucky enough to have a suitable bulkhead just back from the main forestay that can be used for a chainplate.

Alternatively, the deck fitting can be tied down to a fitting on the stem and tensioned using a bottlescrew or suitable purchase system.

Seldén’s Inner forestay fitting can be used with existing spars

There are two options for tensioning the stay on deck.

The neatest and cheapest is to take a 2:1 purchase back to a coachroof winch.

This also has the advantage of making it easy to set the inner forestay up at sea and the jib can be hanked on in advance so that it’s ready for use.

The other route is a large Highfield lever or adjustable bottlescrew – Seasure and Wichard respectively both have products for this purpose.

However, these can be difficult to fit when the boat is pitching in waves, so are best set up before leaving port on a breezy day.

This stay can be used for a hanked-on heavy weather jib (the size of a J3 or J4), or a storm jib.

If having a new sail made, it’s worth specifying it with extra reinforcement and a slab reef, which makes it easy to change down to a storm jib size sail without going onto the foredeck.

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Fitting a Roller Furling Line

A bit of marlinspike helps alleviate a tight squeeze at the drum..

Replacing the roller-furling control line is an easy do-it-yourself job for the boat owner. Inexpensive, double-braid Dacron is a fine choice for furling lines on most boats shorter than 40 feet. On longer boats, you can opt for a furling-line material of more esoteric double-braids with less stretch. However, any line smaller than 3/8-inch diameter is too difficult to grip.

In a handful of cases, the amount of line required barely fits on the drum. A nearly full drum makes furling easier, but you don’t want the drum so full that the furling line will jam. And remember that youll want at least two sheet wraps around the furled sail, so skimping with a too-short line can lead to trouble.

If your drum is too small to handle the required line, one functional workaround is to remove the cover or the core of a section of the furling line. This will weaken the line by about 50 percent, but the rope will still be plenty strong. Here, we look at removing the core.

Once the core is stripped from a double-braided line, the cover flattens into a tape that rolls neatly onto the drum. Most of the rope remains intact, so it still runs smoothly through blocks, clutches, and winches.

Before replacing the furling line, note the number of times the existing line is wrapped on the drum and whether another wrap is needed to allow two full wraps of the sheets on the furled sail. The drum should be three-fourths full for good leverage without rubbing. You can adjust the de-cored length to achieve the ideal diameter.

Mark the core transition point at your preferred point between the drum and the last block or jammer. This point shouldnt be any closer than about three feet from the last block or jammer.

Tie an overhand loop in the new line about five feet from the core transition point toward the bitter end; this will prevent slippage. Through a gap in the cover at the core transition point, work the core out of the new line with a fid, marlin spike, or knitting needle.

Mark the core where it exits the cover. Slide the cover toward the stopper knot to expose about six more inches of core for tapering. Cut the core at the marked spot, taper the end, then pull the cover back over the tapered core. Untie the knot.

Lock the core and cover with either an anti-abrasion coating like Spinlock RP-25 or Maxijacket (see PS March 2015 online) or with stitches. If using a coating, follow makers guidance and don’t coat any portion that will be handled or used on a winch. If stitching, place about 12 stitches through the cover and the full core (not the tapered section). These stitches should be pulled tight to prevent chafe. (The stitches in the photos are loose for illustrative purposes.)

With the sail fully furled (counterclockwise is standard), secure the replacement lines tapered end to the furlers anchor hole with a stopper knot. If you can’t access the anchor hole, you can also secure the line with a clove hitch with a stopper knot on the end to prevent slippage.

Remove the furled sails sheets, and spin the sail several times, winding on extra furling line. When the sail is furled in high winds, it will be tighter and you will need these extra turns; they also reduce stress on the stopper knot.

Reattach the sails sheets, feed the line back through the fairleads, put a stopper knot in the end, belay the line, and go sailing.

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Jimmy Green Marine offer 3 different types of headsail furling system according to sail shape, each quite different but designed to achieve broadly the same outcome.

Headsail furling also known as roller reefing is a system designed to reef or dowse the headsail when the breeze freshens too much and for convenient stowage when not at sea. The reefing (furling) is achieved by rolling the headsail up so that it presents reduced or no sail area to the breeze

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Roller Furling Mainsail: Everything You Need to Know

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 5, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: Roller furling mainsail

A roller furling mainsail is a type of sail system used in yachts and sailing boats. It allows the mainsail to be easily rolled and unfurled, making sail handling more convenient. The main sail is attached to a rotating spar, which enables it to be furled or unfurled using a control line. This system offers improved safety, ease of use, and versatility for sailors.

Understanding the Benefits of a Roller Furling Mainsail

Roller furling mainsails are a game-changer in the sailing world. While traditional mainsails require manual handling and folding, roller furling mainsails provide sailors with the convenience and ease of automatic operation. But beyond their sheer convenience, roller furling mainsails offer numerous benefits that every sailor should understand.

First and foremost, convenience is at the forefront of why many sailors opt for roller furling mainsails. With just a flick of a switch or pull of a line, these sails can be effortlessly furled or unfurled. No more grappling with oversized sails or struggling to find crew members to help manage them – it’s all simplified with this innovative system.

Moreover, the simplicity and ease of use contribute significantly to improved safety on board. Maneuvering in challenging weather conditions becomes much safer when you have better control over your sail area. In risky situations where quick adjustments may be necessary, roller furling systems allow for immediate reefing, reducing the risk of capsizing or damaging the sail.

Furthermore, roller furling mainsails offer enhanced performance in varying wind conditions. By enabling incremental adjustments to the sail area while underway, sailors can easily optimize their boat’s performance based on wind strength. This ability to fine-tune sail shape not only ensures smoother sailing but also helps maintain balance and stability regardless of changing weather conditions .

Another key advantage is reduced effort and strain on both crew members and rigging equipment. Handling traditional mainsails often requires physical exertion as well as specialized knowledge. In contrast, roller furling systems simplify everything by eliminating the need for excessive strength or complex techniques. This makes sailing more accessible to a wider range of enthusiasts – from seasoned professionals to novices looking for a hassle-free experience.

In terms of maintenance and durability, roller furling mainsails also hold an edge over their traditional counterparts. The design minimizes wear and tear by keeping the sail neatly rolled up when not in use, protecting it from the damaging effects of UV rays and harsh weather conditions . Consequently, the lifespan of the sail is prolonged, reducing the need for frequent repairs or replacements.

Adding a touch of flexibility, roller furling mainsails are versatile enough to accommodate different sailing styles and preferences. Whether you enjoy leisurely cruising or competitive racing, this technology offers adaptability to suit your needs. Adjusting sail area on-the-go allows sailors to effortlessly respond to any situation without compromising their overall experience.

Lastly, roller furling mainsails contribute to preserving the aesthetic integrity of a vessel. With their streamlined design and concealed hardware, these sails exude sophistication and elegance while providing optimal functionality. Gone are the days when unwieldy traditional mainsails cluttered up your boat’s appearance – roller furling systems seamlessly blend style with performance.

In conclusion, understanding the benefits of a roller furling mainsail is essential for anyone seeking convenience, safety, performance optimization, reduced effort, durability, versatility, and enhanced aesthetics in their sailing adventures. By embracing this innovative technology, sailors can fully appreciate the merits it brings to their time on the water. So go ahead and unfurl new possibilities with a roller furling mainsail – because sailing should be as effortless and enjoyable as possible!

How Does a Roller Furling Mainsail Work? A Step-by-Step Guide

Have you ever wondered how those sleek and beautiful sailboats effortlessly gliding through the water manage to handle their mainsails so smoothly? The answer lies in the genius innovation of roller furling mainsails! These nifty contraptions enable sailors to easily control and manipulate their sails, providing them with greater convenience and efficiency while out on the open waters. In this step-by-step guide, we will unravel the secrets behind how a roller furling mainsail works, elevating your understanding of sailing technology to new heights.

Step 1: Understanding the Basics Let’s start with the basics – what exactly is a roller furling mainsail? Essentially, it is a mainsail that can be rolled up or unfurled effortlessly using little manpower. Traditionally, raising or lowering a mainsail required considerable physical effort from crew members. However, thanks to roller furling systems, sail handling has become considerably easier and safer.

Step 2: Embracing the Mast The first element we need to examine is the mast – an integral part of any sailboat. To facilitate a roller furling system, most modern sailboats are designed with a hollow aluminum mast. This provides ample space for internal hardware installation to make magical things happen!

Step 3: Meet the Forestay Next up is the forestay – also known as genoa stay for boats equipped with overlapping genoas. The forestay runs from the top of the mast all the way down towards the deck at an angle. It acts as support for your headsail or jib when sailing upwind.

Step 4: Installing The Drum Assembly Attached near where the forestay meets your boat’s deck is an essential piece called “the drum.” Typically made from lightweight yet robust materials such as stainless steel or aluminum alloy, it houses the essential guts of the roller furling system. The drum assembly includes a stationary base, an upper swiveling portion, and a circular channel for your mainsail to wrap around.

Step 5: Extricate The Swivel The drum assembly wouldn’t be complete without its trusty sidekick – the swivel. This clever device allows the sail to rotate freely as it wraps around the drum. It is strategically positioned atop the mast and connected to the forestay, ensuring smooth rotation and ease of operation.

Step 6: Explain Those Halyards Now that we have covered some key hardware components, let’s delve into halyards – ropes responsible for hoisting or lowering your mainsail. Two halyards are typically involved in this process – one specifically dedicated to raising your mainsail and another for attaching it securely at the head of your mast.

Step 7: Enter The Furling Line To achieve effortless operation of your roller furling mainsail, a dedicated furling line is added to the equation. Running from near where your mainsheet attaches on deck, through various pulleys and cleats connected to the drum and swivel systems provides control over rolling up or unfurling your sail .

Step 8: Hoist Away! With all these integral parts seamlessly working together, you are now ready for action! Simply attach your main halyard to the head of your mainsail and start hoisting away until it reaches its optimal height. While hoisting ensures sufficient tension on both masthead bearing plates keeping everything aligned.

Step 9: Ready To Roll (Literally) Once you’ve raised your sail, get ready to harness its power with a simple pull on that furling line! As you pull downward on this magical rope with purposeful intention, watch as your mainsail envelops neatly around the rotating drum section while maintaining perfect sailing shape within itself.

Step 10: Mastering Sailing Control Congratulations! You’ve successfully experienced the wonders of a roller furling mainsail. Now, in full control of your sail, you can adjust its size based on wind strength by winding or unwinding with the furling line, allowing for efficient sailing maneuvers without requiring a crew member to wrestle with massive amounts of fabric.

In conclusion, a roller furling mainsail revolutionizes the way we handle sails by simplifying and streamlining the process. Its clever design and integration into various sailboat systems allow sailors to effortlessly control their mainsails while maintaining optimal performance on the water. So next time you see a sleek yacht elegantly gliding through the waves, you’ll have a newfound appreciation for the intricate workings behind its roller furling mainsail system.

Common FAQs About Roller Furling Mainsails, Answered!

Roller furling mainsails have become quite popular among sailors for their convenience and ease of use. However, they also tend to raise questions and doubts in the minds of many sailors. In this blog post, we aim to answer some of the most common FAQs about roller furling mainsails so that you can make an informed decision.

1. How does a roller furling mainsail work?

A roller furling mainsail works by using a flexible mast with a built-in mechanism that allows for easy rolling and unfurling of the sail. This is usually achieved through a series of interconnected gears or a drum-like device at the base of the mast. By simply spinning the drum in one direction, you can either roll or unroll the sail based on your needs.

2. Are there any advantages to using roller furling mainsails?

Yes, definitely! One of the main advantages is convenience. With a roller furling mainsail, you can easily adjust or reduce your sail area without having to leave the cockpit, saving you time and effort. This comes in handy when dealing with sudden weather changes or gusty conditions . Roller furling systems are also known for their simplicity and reliability compared to traditional hanked-on sails.

3. Are there any downsides to using roller furling mainsails?

Like everything else, roller furling mainsails have their drawbacks too. The most significant concern often raised is decreased performance compared to fully battened or loose-footed sails . While this may be true in certain cases, modern developments have considerably minimized this issue by improving design and materials used in construction.

4. Can I easily reef a roller furling mainsail?

Reefing refers to reducing the sail area in order to cope with stronger winds or adverse weather conditions . With a properly designed and installed roller furling system, reefing can be done quite easily. By rolling the sail partially or completely, you can effectively reduce its size and maintain control over your boat even in challenging conditions.

5. How do I maintain a roller furling mainsail?

Maintaining a roller furling mainsail is relatively straightforward. Regularly inspect the mechanism for any signs of wear or damage. Ensure proper lubrication of moving parts to prevent excessive friction. Pay attention to the condition of the sail itself – look out for tears, UV damage, or loose stitching. If you notice any issues, it’s crucial to address them promptly to avoid compromising performance and safety.

6. Can I convert my existing mainsail into a roller furling one?

In most cases, it is possible to convert an existing mainsail into a roller furling one. However, this process usually involves modifications to both the mast and sail itself, making it more cost-effective to purchase a purpose-built roller furling mainsail tailored specifically for your boat’s dimensions and requirements.

In conclusion, roller furling mainsails offer considerable benefits in terms of convenience and ease of use for sailors. While there are some downsides and considerations regarding their performance and maintenance, advancements in design have significantly improved their reliability over time. Ultimately, choosing a mainsail option depends on your sailing style and preferences – so weigh the pros and cons before making your decision!

Is a Roller Furling Mainsail Right for You? Considerations to Keep in Mind

Are you considering upgrading your sail system and wondering if a roller furling mainsail is the right choice for you? Well, you’re in luck! In this blog post, we will dive deep into the world of roller furling mainsails and provide you with some important considerations to keep in mind. So sit back, relax, and let’s embark on this sailing adventure together.

First things first – what exactly is a roller furling mainsail? Essentially, it is a type of sail that can be easily rolled up around the boom when not in use. This convenience allows sailors to quickly and effortlessly adjust the size of their main sail depending on wind conditions. No more wrestling with stubborn sails or going through the hassle of reefing !

So, why might you want to consider installing a roller furling mainsail on your beloved vessel? Well, there are several enticing advantages to ponder. Let’s start with convenience. The ability to furl or unfurl your mainsail at the push of a button (or pull of a line) can significantly simplify your sailing experience. Gone are the days of struggling with cumbersome sail changes or relying on crew members to assist you – just activate that mechanism and voila! Your sail is set or stowed away like magic.

Furthermore, roller furling systems offer enhanced safety on deck. With no need to venture out onto precarious foredecks during sudden squalls or unpredictable gusts of wind, you can rest assured knowing that all sail adjustments can be made from within the safety cocoon of your cockpit. This feature becomes particularly appealing for single-handed sailors or those with less experienced crew members aboard.

But wait, there’s more! Another key consideration when contemplating a roller furling mainsail is maintenance. Traditional sails often require regular inspections, repairs, and storage procedures that can feel overwhelming for busy boat owners. However, thanks to advancements in technology, many modern roller furling systems are self-contained and low maintenance. This means less time spent on sail upkeep and more time spent on the water doing what we love most – sailing!

Of course, as with any decision, there are a few points to keep in mind before fully committing to a roller furling mainsail. Firstly, it’s worth noting that these systems tend to add weight aloft, potentially affecting your yacht’s performance in lighter winds or upwind sailing scenarios. While this may not be of concern for cruisers or leisurely day sailors, racers may want to take this into consideration before making a final choice.

Additionally, installing a roller furling mainsail can be a significant investment. Costs vary depending on factors such as boat size and chosen system quality. It is essential to research reputable manufacturers and consult with experienced sailors or rigging professionals who can assess your specific needs and provide tailored recommendations.

In summary, the roller furling mainsail can be an absolute game-changer for many sailors out there. Its convenience, safety-enhancing features, and reduced maintenance requirements make it an appealing option for those looking to optimize their sailing experience . However, as with any upgrade or modification to your vessel, considering individual needs, preferences, and budgetary constraints is crucial.

So next time you find yourself pondering whether a roller furling mainsail is right for you – remember the advantages it offers along with the potential considerations we’ve discussed here today. Happy sailing!

Mastering the Art of Handling a Roller Furling Mainsail: Tips and Tricks

Welcome to another exciting blog post where we delve into the intricate world of sailing. Today, we will be discussing the art of handling a roller furling mainsail and providing you with some valuable tips and tricks to perfect your technique. So, whether you are an experienced sailor or just starting out on your nautical adventures, sit back, relax, and get ready to master this essential skill!

Firstly, let’s start by unraveling the concept behind a roller furling mainsail. A roller furling system allows sailors to easily adjust the size of their sail by rolling it up and down a mast. This innovative mechanism has revolutionized sailing as it eliminates the need for extensive manual labor while still providing excellent control over the sail area.

Now that we have a basic understanding of how roller furling mainsails work let’s move on to our first tip: Familiarize yourself with the equipment. Take the time to thoroughly understand your boat ‘s specific roller furler setup. Get acquainted with all the controls, such as halyards, sheets, and furlers themselves. Knowing how everything functions will give you confidence in managing your sail efficiently .

Next up is being mindful of wind conditions. It is crucial to evaluate wind strength before venturing out onto the open water . Ensure that you reef or unroll your mainsail accordingly – reefing here refers to reducing your sail size by partially rolling it up – based on wind speeds and anticipated changes throughout your journey.

Another vital tip is maintaining proper tension in your sails’ luff (the leading edge). By applying sufficient tension using halyards or other lines available on your boat, you can avoid unwanted sagging or fluttering of the sailcloth. This adjustment ensures optimal performance and maximizes speed while minimizing wear and tear.

Moving onto our next point – anticipating jibbing maneuvers! Picture this: You’re cruising along when suddenly a gust hits, causing your mainsail to swing violently across the boat. To avoid this potentially dangerous scenario, try an alternative approach: rather than jibing – which involves shifting the boom from one side of the boat to the other – perform a controlled maneuver called a tack where the bow of your vessel crosses through the eye of the wind. This method reduces stress on your sail and rigging while maintaining control over your roller furling mainsail.

Our final tip is all about practice! Like any skill, handling a roller furling mainsail requires practice to master. Head out onto calm waters and experiment with different settings, observing how adjustments impact your boat’s performance. Practice reefing and unreefing to become comfortable in all conditions, as being able to adapt swiftly is essential for safe sailing .

In conclusion, mastering the art of handling a roller furling mainsail is achievable through education and experience. Understanding how this innovative system works empowers you to make informed decisions while sailing . Remember to respect wind conditions, maintain proper tension, anticipate jibbing maneuvers, and dedicate time to practice refining your technique.

So there you have it – our comprehensive guide filled with professional advice, witty wisdom, and clever tips! Now it’s time for you to take these insights out onto the water and embark on a journey towards becoming a true master of handling a roller furling mainsail. Bon voyage!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Roller Furling Mainsails: Expert Advice

Roller furling mainsails have revolutionized the sailing industry in recent years, providing sailors with convenience and ease of use. However, like any piece of equipment, they are not immune to issues. In this blog post, we will delve into some of the common problems that sailors face when using roller furling mainsails and provide expert advice on how to troubleshoot them.

1. Jamming: One of the most frustrating issues with roller furling mainsails is jamming. This can occur due to a variety of reasons such as improper installation, debris caught in the system, or insufficient maintenance. To troubleshoot a jammed mainsail, start by checking for any visible obstructions on the furling drum or along the luff track. If you don’t find anything obvious, try easing tension on the halyard and gently rocking the sail from side to side while attempting to roll it up. If all else fails, consult with an expert to inspect and service your furling system.

2. Wrapping: Another issue that often plagues roller furling mainsails is wrapping around the forestay during unfurling or reefing. This can happen if not enough tension is applied to the leech line or if there are twists in the sail itself before rolling it up. To avoid this problem, always ensure proper tension on both the luff and leech sides of your sail before hoisting it. Additionally, take care when rolling up your sail by avoiding sudden changes in direction or excessive force.

3. Leaks: Roller furling mainsails are designed to be water-resistant but not completely waterproof. Over time, tiny leaks can develop near stitching seams or through small tears in the fabric. These leaks might seem minor at first but can lead to significant damage if left unattended for extended periods or during heavy rainstorms. Regularly inspect your main for signs of leakage such as damp spots or mildew. Seam repair kits and sealing compounds are available on the market to patch up any small leaks. However, if the damage is extensive, it’s best to consult a sailmaker for proper repairs.

4. Control line issues: The control lines on roller furling mainsails, such as the halyard and the outhaul, can sometimes become tangled or jammed. This can happen due to improper rigging or wear and tear on the lines themselves. To troubleshoot control line problems, start by inspecting their entire length for any signs of fraying or kinks. Ensure they are properly terminated with appropriate fittings and blocks. It’s also important to keep control lines adequately tensioned but not overly tight during operation.

5. Flogging: Flogging occurs when a mainsail violently flaps in the wind due to inadequate furling or mishandling during reefing operations. The stresses caused by flogging can lead to damage not only in your sail but also potentially in your mast, rigging, and other parts of your boat . To prevent this issue, always ensure a smooth and controlled furling motion without applying excessive force or rushing through the process.

In conclusion, while roller furling mainsails offer numerous advantages for sailors, they are prone to certain technical issues that require troubleshooting from time to time. By being proactive in maintaining your system and promptly addressing any problems that arise, you can prolong the lifespan of your sail and enjoy many trouble-free adventures on the water. Remember, when in doubt, don’t hesitate to seek advice from sailing experts as they hold valuable knowledge that can save you time and money in the long run!

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Shop / Headsail Handling / Small Boat Furling

Continuous Line-Drive Furler

Part No. 1134

Maximum working load (kg) 431 kg

Maximum working load (lb) 950 lb

Drum Ø (mm) 73 mm

Drum Ø (in) 2 7/8 in

Maximum luff wire Ø (mm) 3 mm

Maximum luff wire Ø (in) 1/8 in

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The continuous line-drive furler is the perfect solution for high-performance skiffs and dinghies that use oversized jibs/gennakers and for staysails on larger boats. Unlike conventional furling drums, the low-profile line-driver never runs out of line, and can completely furl any sized sail. Offset holes in the drive sheave grip line securely, with the stripper arm and feeder working together to prevent line from jamming. The line guard adjusts in 90-degree increments to accommodate attachments to the boat.

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Roller Furling Jib – Greiner Sailmakers

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Elevate Your Sailing Experience with New Roller Furling Jibs

Welcome to Greiner Sailmakers, where innovation meets tradition to enhance your sailboat's performance and your overall sailing enjoyment. Our latest offering, the New Roller Furling Jibs, is designed to make sailing more convenient, efficient, and enjoyable.

Sail with Ease

Our New Roller Furling Jibs are engineered for hassle-free sailing. Whether you're a seasoned sailor or a novice, these jibs are designed for effortless deployment and adjustments. The roller furling system ensures smooth and straightforward sail handling, allowing you to focus on the joy of sailing.

Exceptional Performance

Greiner Sailmakers has a rich history of crafting sails that excel in performance, and our Roller Furling Jibs are no exception. These jibs are meticulously designed to optimize sail shape and aerodynamics, delivering enhanced speed, control, and stability. Sail confidently in a range of wind conditions, knowing your jib is fine-tuned for peak performance.

Built to Last

Quality is at the heart of Greiner Sailmakers' craftsmanship. Each New Roller Furling Jib is constructed by our skilled artisans using premium materials and time-tested techniques. This dedication to durability ensures that your jib will provide reliable performance for years to come, making it a valuable investment for your sailing adventures.

Customized for Your Boat

We understand that every sailboat is unique, and our Roller Furling Jibs can be customized to meet your vessel's specific requirements. Collaborate with our experts to create a jib tailored to your boat's dimensions, preferences, and sailing style. Whether you prefer a traditional Dacron jib or a high-tech laminate, we cater to your needs.

Set sail with confidence, convenience, and performance – choose Greiner Sailmakers' New Roller Furling Jibs for your sailboat. Elevate your sailing experience and make every voyage a memorable one. Discover the difference with Greiner Sailmakers today.

Why Choose Greiner Sailmakers

• Personal service with every sail purchased.
• Each new roller furling jib is designed and hand-crafted in the USA.
• New roller furling jibs are always constructed using the highest grade materials available.
• All new sails are constructed with a balance of technology and handmade craftsmanship.
• Greiner Sailmakers is an established sailmaker with a reputation for producing high-quality roller furling jibs.

Get A New Roller Furling Jib Quote

Contact Greiner Sailmakers here to get a new roller furling quote.

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Racing Jib – Greiner Sailmakers

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How to Use Roller Furling

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How Jib Furling Works

Before the development of furling jibs, the jib had to be hanked onto the forestay with a series of shackles running the length of the sail’s luff . While hanked-on jibs are still used on many racing boats, on which sail changes are common, furling jibs are used on most cruising boats, especially midsize and larger boats.

At the base of the furling unit is the furling drum. Above it (hidden under the sail in this photo) is the furling foil, a flexible grooved structure that surrounds the forestay from the drum to a swivel at the top of the stay. The jib is hoisted with its leading edge in the groove of the foil—typically only once at the beginning of the sailing season. Then the furling line is pulled out of the drum, causing the drum and foil to rotate and the jib to roll up around the foil.

With a furling jib, there is no need lower the jib and remove the sail hanks after each sail. A furled jib always remains raised and ready for use.

Remember to monitor changes in the wind so that you can furl in the jib early when it's easy rather than late when it's difficult or dangerous. You can learn to read the wind or use an inexpensive handheld wind meter.

The following pages explain the furling and jib reefing process.

The Furled Jib

Here's a view of a tightly furled jib rising above the furling drum.

Note the blue protective cloth along the sail's edges completely covers the white sailcloth when the sail is furled. This is important protection against the sun's UV rays, which gradually break down the fabric used in most cruising sails.

Jibsheets to Furled Jib

The jibsheets remain shackled to the clew of the jib, which rises higher on the forestay as the sail is rolled up.

The jibsheets may be tied to the clew using a bowline or shackles. The jibsheets in this photo are attached using a soft shackle , which avoids large knots or heavy metal that could be dangerous to a crew wrestling with a flailing jib.

The Furling Line

The furling line coils around the furling drum and runs back along the deck to the cockpit. Pulling the furling line causes the drum and furling foil to rotate, which rolls the jib into its furled position.

Unrolling the Furled Jib

The jib is brought out for sailing by pulling the jibsheet from the cockpit. Pull the jibsheet on the side on which the sail will be positioned, opposite of the direction from which the wind is coming. If the wind is crossing the boat from the starboard side , as in this photo, then the jib is pulled out on the port side.

The furling line must be released to allow the sail to unroll, but keep tension on it as the jib comes out to prevent snarling the line on the drum. The furling line should wrap neatly around the drum as the sail comes out, making it easier to pull the line later to roll the sail back up.

Keep Tension on the Jibsheet and Furling Line

As you continue to pull out the jib with the jibsheet, enough of the sail will soon be exposed to catch the wind. Be sure to keep tension on the furling line to prevent the jib from rushing out all at once and flailing in the wind.

Also, keep tension on the jibsheet so that the sail keeps better shape. Usually, it is necessary to put the jibsheet on a winch, once the sail catches the wind, and to start cranking the winch to bring in the sheet as the sail unfurls. Ideally, try to keep the jib in trim for your point of sail as it unrolls.

When the jib is all the way out, cleat the furling line and trim the jib using its telltales .

In windy conditions, you may not want the jib fully unrolled. You can reef the jib by leaving a few wraps of the jib still furled.

Adjusting the Jibsheet Block

On most sailboats with a furling jib, the jib sheet comes back to a moveable block mounted on the deck, as in this photo. This block can be moved forward or aft for optimum sail shape with different amounts of sail unfurled.

Moving the block forward pulls the clew downward more than back, tightening the sail's leech more than the foot. Moving the block aft pulls the clew back more than down, tightening the sail's foot more than the leach. Find the ideal position by watching the jib telltales at the top and the bottom of the luff in order to have both the top and the bottom of the sail in trim.

Sailors usually mark or note the ideal block position for the sail when fully opened and when partly reefed. It is much easier to move the block when the jibsheet does not have tension on it, while the sail is either furled or on the other tack.

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