c lark sailboat manual

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Sailboat Guide

C-Lark is a 14 ′ 0 ″ / 4.3 m monohull sailboat designed by Don Clark and built by Douglass & McLeod and Clark Boat Company between 1964 and 1979.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
LOA: Length overall in feet
Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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We offer new and amateur sailors an affordable means to learn or broaden their skills. We plan activities like races and social sails to test your skills in a relaxed safe environment.

Peninsula Sailing Club

An introduction to our fleet:

“The C-Lark 14 is a small and fast racing dinghy designed and first produced in the mid-1960s. They were manufactured by the Clark Boat Company of Seattle (the same company that produced the popular San Juan sailboats) and were meant to be Bob Clark’s version of the international 14.” – Wikipedia
“The Vanguard 15 is a popular one design racing dinghy designed by Bob Ames. It is a double-handed (two person) monohull sailboat with a sloop rig (one headsail one main sail). Ideally the combined weight of the crew is between 270 lb (120 kg) and 340 lb (150 kg) and both members hike off the boat to keep it flat. Its design allows it to plane while sailing upwind in 12 knots (22 km/h) of breeze or more. Another of the design features of the boat is to be self bailing or self rescuing meaning that if the shallow cockpit of the boat takes on water, large drains in the stern of the boat will allow the water to drain via gravity and with no effort by the crew or need for the boat to be moving to drain.” – Wikipedia
“The International Laser Class sailboat , also called Laser Standard and the Laser One is a popular one-design class of small sailing dinghy . According to the Laser Class Rules the boat may be sailed by either one or two people, though it is rarely sailed by two. The design, by Bruce Kirby , emphasizes simplicity and performance. The dinghy is manufactured by independent companies in different parts of the world, including LaserPerformance Europe (Americas and Europe), Performance Sailcraft Australia (Oceania) and Performance Sailcraft Japan.” – Wikipedia
Plastic sea kayak, open-top
Aluminum rowboat

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Help With C-lark

Thread starter mgerdau
Start date Jul 26, 2015
Forums for All Owners
Ask All Sailors

I am not a sailor. I have a 1970 14' C-Lark. It was sitting out in the Central Oregon weather for over 6 years; so all of the lines are rotted and all of the blocks are cracked and falling apart. I'm in the process of replacing the Running Rigging blocks and have started with the main halyard; which is the furthest I've gone. Now I'm trying to figure out what comes next, I think I have a good clue as far as the jib halyard goes. The Standing Rigging is pretty sound, hey it's stainless steel wire rope and stainless steel, well for the most part, all of the cotter pins and such.

pappacraig said: congratulations on your purchase. c-larks are great fun and fast and will plane in moderate heavy air if you can keep them flat. i believe i am using 4 or 5mm halyards, will check line sizes tomorrow or saturday Not so much info on the web, as they are old Peninsula Sailing Club has a small fleet and about the most information i have found http://www.peninsulasailingclub.org/C Lark Info Main Page.htm Willamette Sailing club used to have an active fleet, some of the older members might still have information http://willamettesailingclub.com Click to expand

for shrouds i would contact salty dog marine i know they do custom work,and im sure they would make a wire traveler for you too, when my traveler wire broke, i went with a length of 5mm vectran tied with bowlines it works great

pappacraig said: for shrouds i would contact salty dog marine i know they do custom work,and im sure they would make a wire traveler for you too, when my traveler wire broke, i went with a length of 5mm vectran tied with bowlines it works great Click to expand

sorry for the long post, but maybe this will help other lurkers too Moja is not rigged at the moment so i measured out of my bag… Traveler 6mm x 48” double braid VPC long leaving 44” between eye straps which is close to what the wire length was color Black Vang 5mm x 10’ double braid polyester which works fine for me color white/red Mainsheet 9mm x 35’ long double braid poly overkill but soft and a has a better feel in my hand this requires larger blocks Jib sheet 9mm x 25’ long ancient double braid, white i them cris cross so i can control jib from the high side when single handing Main Halyard 5mm x 24’ vpc, along with the wire rope Green for starboard side of mast Jib halyard 5mm x 15’ vpc along with the wire rope Red for port side of mast Blocks the larger main sheet requires 40mm blocks, so traveler block is Harken 40mm carbo boom end block is 40mm carbo with swivel. should change to 40mm cargo with becket for ease of rigging boom mid block is an ancient Fico that must be original stock Finally the ratchet block is another ancient Fico 40mm that should be replaced blocks on jib side of mast… assuming you mean the 3 at the bottom of the mast they are used for adjusting jib luff tension i slapped together 2 pictures, one has 1x1 mechanical advantage, leaving the outside bottom pulley for the spinnaker halyard the other has a 2x1 MA which doesn’t leave a pulley for the spinnaker, but i don’t have one so no biggie 5mm is a tight squeeze into the hole in the 16mm block but a simple overhand knot in the end keeps it in place

Attachments

pappacraig said: sorry for the long post, but maybe this will help other lurkers too Moja is not rigged at the moment so i measured out of my bag… Traveler 6mm x 48” double braid VPC long leaving 44” between eye straps which is close to what the wire length was color Black Vang 5mm x 10’ double braid polyester which works fine for me color white/red Mainsheet 9mm x 35’ long double braid poly overkill but soft and a has a better feel in my hand this requires larger blocks Jib sheet 9mm x 25’ long ancient double braid, white i them cris cross so i can control jib from the high side when single handing Main Halyard 5mm x 24’ vpc, along with the wire rope Green for starboard side of mast Jib halyard 5mm x 15’ vpc along with the wire rope Red for port side of mast Blocks the larger main sheet requires 40mm blocks, so traveler block is Harken 40mm carbo boom end block is 40mm carbo with swivel. should change to 40mm cargo with becket for ease of rigging boom mid block is an ancient Fico that must be original stock Finally the ratchet block is another ancient Fico 40mm that should be replaced blocks on jib side of mast… assuming you mean the 3 at the bottom of the mast they are used for adjusting jib luff tension i slapped together 2 pictures, one has 1x1 mechanical advantage, leaving the outside bottom pulley for the spinnaker halyard the other has a 2x1 MA which doesn’t leave a pulley for the spinnaker, but i don’t have one so no biggie 5mm is a tight squeeze into the hole in the 16mm block but a simple overhand knot in the end keeps it in place Click to expand

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