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The Running Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The running rigging on a sailboat consists of all the lines used to hoist, lower, and control the sails and sailing equipment. These lines usually have different colors and patterns to easily identify their function and location on the vessel.

Looking at the spaghetti of lines with different colors and patterns might get your head spinning. But don’t worry, it is actually pretty simple. Each line on a sailboat has a function, and you’ll often find labels describing them in the cockpit and on the mast.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the functions of every component of the running rigging. We’ll also look at the hardware we use to operate it and get up to speed on some of the terminology.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts, the  standing , and the  running  rigging.

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing. Check out my guide on standing rigging here!
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate and control the sails on a sailboat which we will explore in this guide.

The components of the running rigging

Knowing the running rigging is an essential part of sailing, whether you are sailing a cruising boat or crewing on a large yacht. Different types of sailing vessels have different amounts of running rigging.

For example, a sloop rig has fewer lines than a ketch, which has multiple masts and requires a separate halyard, outhaul, and sheet for its mizzen sail. Similarly, a cutter rig needs another halyard and extra sheets for its additional headsail.

You can dive deeper and read more about Sloop rigs, Ketch Rigs, Cutter rigs, and many others here .

Take a look at this sailboat rigging diagram:

Lines are a type of rope with a smooth surface that works well on winches found on sailboats. They come in various styles and sizes and have different stretch capabilities.

Dyneema and other synthetic fibers have ultra-high tensile strength and low stretch. These high-performance lines last a long time, and I highly recommend them as a cruiser using them for my halyards.

A halyard is a line used to raise and lower the sail. It runs from the head of the sail to the masthead through a  block and  continues down to the deck. Running the halyard back to the cockpit is common, but many prefer to leave it on the mast.

Fun fact:  Old traditional sailboats sometimes used a stainless steel wire attached to the head of the sail instead of a line!

Jib, Genoa, and Staysail Halyards

The halyard for the headsail is run through a block in front of the masthead. If your boat has a staysail, it needs a separate halyard. These lines are primarily untouched on vessels with a furling system except when you pack the sail away or back up. Commonly referred to as the jib halyard.

Spinnaker Halyard

A spinnaker halyard is basically the same as the main halyard but used to hoist and lower the spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor. 

The spinnaker halyard is also excellent for climbing up the front of the mast, hoisting the dinghy on deck, lifting the outboard, and many other things.

A sheet is a line you use to  control and trim a sail to the angle of the wind . The  mainsheet  controls the angle of the mainsail and is attached between the boom and the  mainsheet   traveler . The two headsail sheets are connected to the sail’s clew (lower aft corner) and run back to each side of the cockpit.

These are control lines used to adjust the angle and tension of the sail. It is also the line used to unfurl a headsail on a furling system. Depending on what sail you are referring to, this can be the  Genoa sheet , the  Jib sheet , the  Gennaker sheet , etc.

The outhaul is a line attached to the clew of the mainsail and used to adjust the foot tension. It works runs from the mainsail clew to the end of the boom and back to the mast. In many cases, back to the cockpit. On a boat with  in-mast furling , this is the line you use to pull the sail out of the mast.

Topping lift

The topping lift is a line attached to the boom’s end and runs through the masthead and down to the deck or cockpit. It lifts and holds the boom and functions well as a spare main halyard. Some types of sailboat rigging don’t use a topping lift for their boom but a boom vang instead. Others have both!

Topping lifts can also be used to lift other spars.

A downhaul is a line used to lower with and typically used to haul the mainsail down when reefing and lowering the spinnaker and whisker poles. The downhaul can also control the tack of an asymmetrical spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor.

Tweaker and Barber Haul

A tweaker is a line, often elastic, attached to the sheet of a headsail and used to fine-tune the tension on the sheet.

Barber haul

A barber haul is a line attached to a headsail’s sheet to adjust the sheeting angle to the wind. It is often used to pull the clew further toward the center or outboard than the cars allow.

Boom Preventer

A boom preventer is a line attached to the boom’s end when sailing off the wind. Its function is to hold the spar in place and prevent it from swinging wildly.

If the boat were to get an accidental gybe, it could cause serious damage to the rigging or even harm people on board. It is important for the rigger to be cautious when setting up the boom preventer.

Running Backstay

Running backstays is similar to a normal backstay but uses a line instead of a hydraulic tensioner. Some rigs have additional check stays or runners as well.

Bonus tip: Reefing

The term reefing is used when reducing the effective sailing area exposed to the wind of a given sail. Headsails are usually reefed by partially furling them in, and they often have marks for what we refer to as 1st, 2nd, and 3rd reefs.

The mainsail is reefed similarly with an in-mast furling or in-boom furling system.

On a traditional mast, we use a system called slab reefing. The system has reefing lines running through the boom to reinforced points on the luff and leech, allowing you to pull the sail down to the boom and effectively reduce the sail area.

Having at least two reefing points in the mainsail is normal, but most cruising sailboats have 3. The 3rd is used for the heaviest conditions, giving you only a tiny bit of sail area exposed to the wind.

You want to reef your sails  before  the wind increases to a point where your boat gets overpowered.

It is essential to practice your reefing technique . You will find yourself in situations with rapidly increasing winds where you need to reduce your sails quickly.

Rule of thumb:  If you think setting a reef might be a good idea, do it.

Shaking a reef  is the term used when we sail with a reefed sail and want to increase the sail area back to full.

Hardware used for sail handling and the running rigging

Furling system.

Most sailboats have their headsail on a furling system. A furling system is a tube that runs along the forestay from the bottom furler drum to the masthead swivel.

This system allows you to roll the headsail around the forestay, making furling the sail in and out accessible. It is also convenient when reefing the sail when the wind picks up, as you can easily do this from the safety of the cockpit. These furling systems come in manual versions and electric versions.

In-mast furling

In-mast furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the mast. To unfurl the mainsail, we use the  outhaul .

In-boom furling

In-boom furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the boom. This system has been costly and has mostly been seen on big yachts earlier. They are becoming more affordable and common on smaller boats, though. To unfurl this setup, we use the main halyard.

A Stack pack is also called a Lazy Bag or Lazy Pack. It is a bag with a zip attached to the boom where the mainsail is stored when unused. It protects the mainsail from UV rays from the sun and weather elements. It is a very nice and tidy way to store the mainsail and reefing lines if you don’t have in-mast or in-boom furling.

Lazy Jacks is a system of lines running from the stack pack to the mast. The Lazy Jacks guide the mainsail up and down from the Stack Pack and prevent it from falling down on the deck. It is also possible to rig Lazy Jacks without a Stack Pack.

A block is a pulley with a sheave wheel. Blocks are used to change the direction of a pull on a line or rope and give a mechanical advantage. They have many uses, especially onboard sailboats.

A winch is a metal drum that gives you a mechanical advantage to control and tighten lines. These can be operated by turning a rope around it and pulling manually or by a winch handle to get more force. Most modern winches are self-tailing, which means they lock the line on so you can winch the line without holding on to it. Some boats even have electrical winches operated by a button.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a horizontal track that the mainsheet is attached to through a series of blocks. The traveler enables you to adjust and lock the boom at an angle and also plays a critical part in trimming the mainsail.

Most cruising sailboats have their traveler attached to the top of the coachroof in front of the spray hood. A racing boat typically has the traveler in the cockpit near the helm to give the helmsman better control over the mainsheet.

The cars are basically a pulley or block attached to a track on the port and starboard deck that your headsail sheets run through. Cars are used to control the angle of the sheet between the clew and the deck. The cars are handy when you trim the sail to set the right balance of tension between the foot and leech, depending on your point of sail.

The jammer is used to lock a line in place. Most sailboats use these for locking the halyards, mainsheet, outhaul, reef lines, traveler lines, boom vang lines, etc. You can pull or winch a line through a closed jammer, but it won’t run away if you let go of it unless you open the lock. 

As I explained earlier, it is normal to have most or all of the lines led back to the cockpit, and they are usually run through a series of jammers.

The jammers are often labeled with the name of the line it locks, which makes it easier to remember which line goes where.

Spinnaker Pole

A spinnaker pole is a spar used to wing out a headsail when sailing off the wind, particularly the spinnaker. The spinnaker pole should have the same length as the distance between the mast and the forestay measured along the deck. We use a fore and aft guy and the pole’s topping lift to rig a pole correctly.

The rigging varies depending on the layout of the boat, but it usually looks like this:

• One line runs from the bow to the end of the pole.
• An aft line runs from near the stern to the end of the pole.
• A topping lift is used to raise and lower the pole.

Whisker Pole

A whisker pole is similar to the spinnaker pole and is rigged similarly. It is typically built lighter and attached to a track on the mast. These can be found in fixed lengths or adjustable lengths. Ideally, the length should be the same as the foot of the headsail you intend to pole out.

Boom Vang/Rod Kicker

The Boom Vang has a few different names. Rod-kicker, kicking strap, or kicker. It is used to tension the boom downwards. When you are sailing downwind and have the boom far out, the mainsheet won’t pull the boom down as much as inboard, and you can then use the vang to adjust the twist and shape of the mainsail.

Mooring line

A mooring line is a traditional rope lead through a fairlead to the vessel’s cleat and a mooring buoy, key, or pontoon.

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of how the running rig on a sailboat functions. We’ve covered the different lines, their purpose, and the hardware used to operate them. I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide and learned something new.

Now it’s time to take what you’ve learned and put it into practice by getting out on the water, setting sail, and getting hands-on experience with the lines.

Or you can continue to my following guide and learn more about the different types of sails .

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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Home > Resources > Rig Specification Diagram For Sailboats: Mainsail & Headsail

Rig Specification Diagram For Sailboats: Mainsail & Headsail

30 December 2020

Ask Precision Sails , Design , Featuring - Partners , Headsail , Mainsail , Measurements , Sails , Technical Tags: Furling , Headsail , Mainsail , Precision Sails , rig , Sails , Specifications , Specs

Sailboat Rig Specs: Precision Sails Defined

The above infographic shows how Precision Sails label sailboat rig specifications. Continue reading below to see definitions and basic how-to tips on how to measure them below. Rig specs are important for designing a sail suited for your applications and boat. When you decide to get a custom sail from Precision, in most cases, you will be taking your own boats measurements. So it’s important to know about rig specs!

One thing we tell sailors here at precision is “The effort you put into measuring really does translate into the quality of sail you get” If quality measurements are given to designers, it allows them to create an excellent performing sail. It’s essential that good information is passed on to the designers when they create your sail.

The more information you can give to us, the better. One detail we strive to get right with sailors is the sailboats measurements. Taking your own sail boats measurements is an imperative part of creating a custom sail.

Photographs are also a handy tool. They let our designers understand your rigs better and can make suggestions and improvements.

Sometimes sailors think sails are like Lego, or the marine equivalent of a Honda Civic car part, where you can just swap out sails like its nothing. But this isn’t further from the truth. Sailboats are handmade. There can be many differences from one model to the next. Your boat might not be fresh out of the boatyard. It might be 36 or more years old, all this time equates to the boat changing, modifications being made, new parts being installed, break in periods, different maintenance intervals. There are a whole slew of reasons why your boat’s rig specs could be, and probably are, different from the next. This is the main reason we are so thorough with our measurement forms and design process.

Mainsail Rig Specs

P – Maximum Mainsail Hoist Length (Maximum luff): On the main halyard, hoist a measuring tape measure until it stops without jamming the halyard into the shiv. Measure straight down along the mast to the top of the boom at the tack. Disconnect Mainsail from Halyard. Be sure the boom is in the normal sailing position.

E – Maximum Foot Length: Measure from the aft face of the mast to the shackle of the outhaul. Make sure the outhaul is pulled back to it’s tightest position. When you get a maximum foot length we are not actually going to design the sail exactly to that length but rather a couple inches shorter. This allows you to adjust your outhull and not have your adjustments pushed against the shiv at the end of the boom, as well as changing tension in the sail.

Backstay Measurement: This measurement serves as a guide so we know how far the leech of your sail can be pushed without it overlapping the backstay. Sometimes you want this for certain performance reasons, but most cruisers do not want it to overlap, because it results in less wear.

Headsail Rig Specs

I – Foretriangle Height: Measure from the top of the halyard to the side deck on the forward side of the mast.

J – Foretriangle Base: Measure along deck from the forestay to the Forward face of mast. The J measurement is just a secondary check to make sure nothing has been changed over the years and there’s no surprises.

1. First Hank: Measure from tack to the first hank position on headstay wire above turnbuckle.

2. Maximum Luff Measurement: Measure from top of halyard to the bearing point of tack fitting

3. Waterline to Forestay: At the bow, measure the vertical distance from the waterline up to the intersection of the deck and forestay.

4. Waterline to Base: At the front of the mast, measure the vertical distance from the waterline up to the deck.

5. Headstay to Forward Track: Measure from tack attachment on deck to the forward edge of the headsail track you will be sheeting to.

Furling Head Sails

Headsail rig dimensions change slightly with a furling unit. The following videos do a good job of displaying the process of taking the measurements.

Furling drum height: Measure from the deck to the location of the tack attachment point on your furling drum. Measure the pennant separately.

After you get us your measurements. We will start customizing the design of your sail. There will be a consultation during the design process. We get you involved with this process because there are several things you can adjust for your sail – how far do you want the clew off the deck, where do you want the clew to sit and any thing else you might think of.

Put the knowledge you just gained into good use and take some good measurements! If you’re in need of a sail request a quote!

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Sailboat Rigging

Assembling the rigging of our boats has been made as basic and efficient as possible. Below you can find a video tutorial of how to rig our sloop-style sailboats.  These instructions pertain to all of our sloop rigged boat models, including the 17′ Jersey Skiff , 15′ Lobster Boat , 14′ Whitehall  and 12′ Point Defiance , as well as the 10′ Navigator and 9.5′ Captain’s Gig when equipped with their High Performance Option that adds the jib and bowsprit. Our cat-rigged boats including the standard 10′ Navigator , 9.5′ Captain’s Gig , and 8′ Nisqually sailboats also follow these same instructions, but since they have only a mainsail you simply skip the steps pertaining to the jib. 

For our balanced lug rigged skiffs ( 16′ Melonseed , 17′ Salish Voyager , and 12′ Scamp , see rigging Instructions HERE .

Written instructions are below.  The sequence corresponds to the video above, and we’ve added time markers so you can find the visual reference for each step.

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The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

What's that sail for? Generally, I don't know. So I've come up with a system. I'll explain you everything there is to know about sails and rigs in this article.

What are the different types of sails? Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. Typically, the mainsail is a fore-and-aft bermuda rig (triangular shaped). A jib or genoa is used for the headsail. Most sailors use additional sails for different conditions: the spinnaker (a common downwind sail), gennaker, code zero (for upwind use), and stormsail.

Each sail has its own use. Want to go downwind fast? Use a spinnaker. But you can't just raise any sail and go for it. It's important to understand when (and how) to use each sail. Your rigging also impacts what sails you can use.

On this page:

Different sail types, the sail plan of a bermuda sloop, mainsail designs, headsail options, specialty sails, complete overview of sail uses, mast configurations and rig types.

This article is part 1 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 2 is all about the different types of rigging. If you want to learn to identify every boat you see quickly, make sure to read it. It really explains the different sail plans and types of rigging clearly.

Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

First I'll give you a quick and dirty overview of sails in this list below. Then, I'll walk you through the details of each sail type, and the sail plan, which is the godfather of sail type selection so to speak.

Click here if you just want to scroll through a bunch of pictures .

Here's a list of different models of sails: (Don't worry if you don't yet understand some of the words, I'll explain all of them in a bit)

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Genoa - large jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Spinnaker - large balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Gennaker - crossover between a Genoa and Spinnaker
• Code Zero or Screecher - upwind spinnaker
• Drifter or reacher - a large, powerful, hanked on genoa, but made from lightweight fabric
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Trysail - smaller front-and-aft mainsail for heavy weather
• Storm jib - small jib for heavy weather

I have a big table below that explains the sail types and uses in detail .

I know, I know ... this list is kind of messy, so to understand each sail, let's place them in a system.

The first important distinction between sail types is the placement . The mainsail is placed aft of the mast, which simply means behind. The headsail is in front of the mast.

Generally, we have three sorts of sails on our boat:

• Mainsail: The large sail behind the mast which is attached to the mast and boom
• Headsail: The small sail in front of the mast, attached to the mast and forestay (ie. jib or genoa)
• Specialty sails: Any special utility sails, like spinnakers - large, balloon-shaped sails for downwind use

The second important distinction we need to make is the functionality . Specialty sails (just a name I came up with) each have different functionalities and are used for very specific conditions. So they're not always up, but most sailors carry one or more of these sails.

They are mostly attached in front of the headsail, or used as a headsail replacement.

The specialty sails can be divided into three different categories:

• downwind sails - like a spinnaker
• light air or reacher sails - like a code zero
• storm sails

The parts of any sail

Whether large or small, each sail consists roughly of the same elements. For clarity's sake I've took an image of a sail from the world wide webs and added the different part names to it:

• Head: Top of the sail
• Tack: Lower front corner of the sail
• Foot: Bottom of the sail
• Luff: Forward edge of the sail
• Leech: Back edge of the sail
• Clew: Bottom back corner of the sail

So now we speak the same language, let's dive into the real nitty gritty.

Basic sail shapes

Roughly speaking, there are actually just two sail shapes, so that's easy enough. You get to choose from:

• square rigged sails
• fore-and-aft rigged sails

I would definitely recommend fore-and-aft rigged sails. Square shaped sails are pretty outdated. The fore-and-aft rig offers unbeatable maneuverability, so that's what most sailing yachts use nowadays.

Square sails were used on Viking longships and are good at sailing downwind. They run from side to side. However, they're pretty useless upwind.

A fore-and-aft sail runs from the front of the mast to the stern. Fore-and-aft literally means 'in front and behind'. Boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails are better at sailing upwind and maneuvering in general. This type of sail was first used on Arabic boats.

As a beginner sailor I confuse the type of sail with rigging all the time. But I should cut myself some slack, because the rigging and sails on a boat are very closely related. They are all part of the sail plan .

A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

There are dozens of sails and hundreds of possible configurations (or sail plans).

For example, depending on your mast configuration, you can have extra headsails (which then are called staysails).

The shape of the sails depends on the rigging, so they overlap a bit. To keep it simple I'll first go over the different sail types based on the most common rig. I'll go over the other rig types later in the article.

Bermuda Sloop: the most common rig

Most modern small and mid-sized sailboats have a Bermuda sloop configuration . The sloop is one-masted and has two sails, which are front-and-aft rigged. This type of rig is also called a Marconi Rig. The Bermuda rig uses a triangular sail, with just one side of the sail attached to the mast.

The mainsail is in use most of the time. It can be reefed down, making it smaller depending on the wind conditions. It can be reefed down completely, which is more common in heavy weather. (If you didn't know already: reefing is skipper terms for rolling or folding down a sail.)

In very strong winds (above 30 knots), most sailors only use the headsail or switch to a trysail.

The headsail powers your bow, the mainsail powers your stern (rear). By having two sails, you can steer by using only your sails (in theory - it requires experience). In any case, two sails gives you better handling than one, but is still easy to operate.

Let's get to the actual sails. The mainsail is attached behind the mast and to the boom, running to the stern. There are multiple designs, but they actually don't differ that much. So the following list is a bit boring. Feel free to skip it or quickly glance over it.

• Square Top racing mainsail - has a high performance profile thanks to the square top, optional reef points
• Racing mainsail - made for speed, optional reef points
• Cruising mainsail - low-maintenance, easy to use, made to last. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Full-Batten Cruising mainsail - cruising mainsail with better shape control. Eliminates flogging. Full-length battens means the sail is reinforced over the entire length. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• High Roach mainsail - crossover between square top racing and cruising mainsail, used mostly on cats and multihulls. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Mast Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the mast - very convenient but less control; of sail shape. Have no reef points
• Boom Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the boom. Have no reef points.

The headsail is the front sail in a front-and-aft rig. The sail is fixed on a stay (rope, wire or rod) which runs forward to the deck or bowsprit. It's almost always triangular (Dutch fishermen are known to use rectangular headsail). A triangular headsail is also called a jib .

Headsails can be attached in two ways:

• using roller furlings - the sail rolls around the headstay
• hank on - fixed attachment

Types of jibs:

Typically a sloop carries a regular jib as its headsail. It can also use a genoa.

• A jib is a triangular staysail set in front of the mast. It's the same size as the fore-triangle.
• A genoa is a large jib that overlaps the mainsail.

What's the purpose of a jib sail? A jib is used to improve handling and to increase sail area on a sailboat. This helps to increase speed. The jib gives control over the bow (front) of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship. The jib is the headsail (frontsail) on a front-and-aft rig.

The size of the jib is generally indicated by a number - J1, 2, 3, and so on. The number tells us the attachment point. The order of attachment points may differ per sailmaker, so sometimes J1 is the largest jib (on the longest stay) and sometimes it's the smallest (on the shortest stay). Typically the J1 jib is the largest - and the J3 jib the smallest.

Most jibs are roller furling jibs: this means they are attached to a stay and can be reefed down single-handedly. If you have a roller furling you can reef down the jib to all three positions and don't need to carry different sizes.

Originally called the 'overlapping jib', the leech of the genoa extends aft of the mast. This increases speed in light and moderate winds. A genoa is larger than the total size of the fore-triangle. How large exactly is indicated by a percentage.

• A number 1 genoa is typically 155% (it used to be 180%)
• A number 2 genoa is typically 125-140%

Genoas are typically made from 1.5US/oz polyester spinnaker cloth, or very light laminate.

This is where it gets pretty interesting. You can use all kinds of sails to increase speed, handling, and performance for different weather conditions.

Some rules of thumb:

• Large sails are typically good for downwind use, small sails are good for upwind use.
• Large sails are good for weak winds (light air), small sails are good for strong winds (storms).

Downwind sails

Thanks to the front-and-aft rig sailboats are easier to maneuver, but they catch less wind as well. Downwind sails are used to offset this by using a large sail surface, pulling a sailboat downwind. They can be hanked on when needed and are typically balloon shaped.

Here are the most common downwind sails:

• Big gennaker
• Small gennaker

A free-flying sail that fills up with air, giving it a balloon shape. Spinnakers are generally colorful, which is why they look like kites. This downwind sail has the largest sail area, and it's capable of moving a boat with very light wind. They are amazing to use on trade wind routes, where they can help you make quick progress.

Spinnakers require special rigging. You need a special pole and track on your mast. You attach the sail at three points: in the mast head using a halyard, on a pole, and on a sheet.

The spinnaker is symmetrical, meaning the luff is as long as its leech. It's designed for broad reaching.

Gennaker or cruising spinnaker

The Gennaker is a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker. It has less downwind performance than the spinnaker. It is a bit smaller, making it slower, but also easier to handle - while it remains very capable. The cruising spinnaker is designed for broad reaching.

The gennaker is a smaller, asymmetric spinnaker that's doesn't require a pole or track on the mast. Like the spinnaker, and unlike the genoa, the gennaker is set flying. Asymmetric means its luff is longer than its leech.

You can get big and small gennakers (roughly 75% and 50% the size of a true spinnaker).

Also called ...

• the cruising spinnaker
• cruising chute
• pole-less spinnaker
• SpinDrifter

... it's all the same sail.

Light air sails

There's a bit of overlap between the downwind sails and light air sails. Downwind sails can be used as light air sails, but not all light air sails can be used downwind.

Here are the most common light air sails:

• Spinnaker and gennaker

Drifter reacher

Code zero reacher.

A drifter (also called a reacher) is a lightweight, larger genoa for use in light winds. It's roughly 150-170% the size of a genoa. It's made from very lightweight laminated spinnaker fabric (1.5US/oz).

Thanks to the extra sail area the sail offers better downwind performance than a genoa. It's generally made from lightweight nylon. Thanks to it's genoa characteristics the sail is easier to use than a cruising spinnaker.

The code zero reacher is officially a type of spinnaker, but it looks a lot like a large genoa. And that's exactly what it is: a hybrid cross between the genoa and the asymmetrical spinnaker (gennaker). The code zero however is designed for close reaching, making it much flatter than the spinnaker. It's about twice the size of a non-overlapping jib.

A windseeker is a small, free-flying staysail for super light air. It's tall and thin. It's freestanding, so it's not attached to the headstay. The tack attaches to a deck pad-eye. Use your spinnakers' halyard to raise it and tension the luff.

It's made from nylon or polyester spinnaker cloth (0.75 to 1.5US/oz).

It's designed to guide light air onto the lee side of the main sail, ensuring a more even, smooth flow of air.

Stormsails are stronger than regular sails, and are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots. You carry them to spare the mainsail. Sails

A storm jib is a small triangular staysail for use in heavy weather. If you participate in offshore racing you need a mandatory orange storm jib. It's part of ISAF's requirements.

A trysail is a storm replacement for the mainsail. It's small, triangular, and it uses a permanently attached pennant. This allows it to be set above the gooseneck. It's recommended to have a separate track on your mast for it - you don't want to fiddle around when you actually really need it to be raised ... now.

Why Use Different Sails At All?

You could just get the largest furling genoa and use it on all positions. So why would you actually use different types of sails?

The main answer to that is efficiency . Some situations require other characteristics.

Having a deeply reefed genoa isn't as efficient as having a small J3. The reef creates too much draft in the sail, which increases heeling. A reefed down mainsail in strong winds also increases heeling. So having dedicated (storm) sails is probably a good thing, especially if you're planning more demanding passages or crossings.

But it's not just strong winds, but also light winds that can cause problems. Heavy sails will just flap around like laundry in very light air. So you need more lightweight fabrics to get you moving.

What Are Sails Made Of?

The most used materials for sails nowadays are:

• Dacron - woven polyester
• woven nylon
• laminated fabrics - increasingly popular

Sails used to be made of linen. As you can imagine, this is terrible material on open seas. Sails were rotting due to UV and saltwater. In the 19th century linen was replaced by cotton.

It was only in the 20th century that sails were made from synthetic fibers, which were much stronger and durable. Up until the 1980s most sails were made from Dacron. Nowadays, laminates using yellow aramids, Black Technora, carbon fiber and Spectra yarns are more and more used.

Laminates are as strong as Dacron, but a lot lighter - which matters with sails weighing up to 100 kg (220 pounds).

By the way: we think that Viking sails were made from wool and leather, which is quite impressive if you ask me.

In this section of the article I give you a quick and dirty summary of different sail plans or rig types which will help you to identify boats quickly. But if you want to really understand it clearly, I really recommend you read part 2 of this series, which is all about different rig types.

You can't simply count the number of masts to identify rig type But you can identify any rig type if you know what to look for. We've created an entire system for recognizing rig types. Let us walk you through it. Read all about sail rig types

As I've said earlier, there are two major rig types: square rigged and fore-and-aft. We can divide the fore-and-aft rigs into three groups:

• Bermuda rig (we have talked about this one the whole time) - has a three-sided mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided mainsail on a long yard

There are roughly four types of boats:

• one masted boats - sloop, cutter
• two masted boats - ketch, schooner, brig
• three masted - barque
• fully rigged or ship rigged - tall ship

Everything with four masts is called a (tall) ship. I think it's outside the scope of this article, but I have written a comprehensive guide to rigging. I'll leave the three and four-masted rigs for now. If you want to know more, I encourage you to read part 2 of this series.

One-masted rigs

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

The 3 most common one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

1. Gaff Cat

2. Gaff Sloop

Two-masted rigs

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the main mast. Behind (aft of) the main mast is called a mizzen mast . In front of the main mast is called a foremast .

The 5 most common two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Main mast carries small lateen rigged sail.

4. Schooner

5. Brigantine

This article is part 1 of a series about sails and rig types If you want to read on and learn to identify any sail plans and rig type, we've found a series of questions that will help you do that quickly. Read all about recognizing rig types

Related Questions

What is the difference between a gennaker & spinnaker? Typically, a gennaker is smaller than a spinnaker. Unlike a spinnaker, a gennaker isn't symmetric. It's asymmetric like a genoa. It is however rigged like a spinnaker; it's not attached to the forestay (like a jib or a genoa). It's a downwind sail, and a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker (hence the name).

What is a Yankee sail? A Yankee sail is a jib with a high-cut clew of about 3' above the boom. A higher-clewed jib is good for reaching and is better in high waves, preventing the waves crash into the jibs foot. Yankee jibs are mostly used on traditional sailboats.

How much does a sail weigh? Sails weigh anywhere between 4.5-155 lbs (2-70 kg). The reason is that weight goes up exponentially with size. Small boats carry smaller sails (100 sq. ft.) made from thinner cloth (3.5 oz). Large racing yachts can carry sails of up to 400 sq. ft., made from heavy fabric (14 oz), totaling at 155 lbs (70 kg).

What's the difference between a headsail and a staysail? The headsail is the most forward of the staysails. A boat can only have one headsail, but it can have multiple staysails. Every staysail is attached to a forward running stay. However, not every staysail is located at the bow. A stay can run from the mizzen mast to the main mast as well.

What is a mizzenmast? A mizzenmast is the mast aft of the main mast (behind; at the stern) in a two or three-masted sailing rig. The mizzenmast is shorter than the main mast. It may carry a mainsail, for example with a ketch or lugger. It sometimes doesn't carry a mainsail, for example with a yawl, allowing it to be much shorter.

Special thanks to the following people for letting me use their quality photos: Bill Abbott - True Spinnaker with pole - CC BY-SA 2.0 lotsemann - Volvo Ocean Race Alvimedica and the Code Zero versus SCA and the J1 - CC BY-SA 2.0 Lisa Bat - US Naval Academy Trysail and Storm Jib dry fit - CC BY-SA 2.0 Mike Powell - White gaff cat - CC BY-SA 2.0 Anne Burgess - Lugger The Reaper at Scottish Traditional Boat Festival

Hi, I stumbled upon your page and couldn’t help but notice some mistakes in your description of spinnakers and gennakers. First of all, in the main photo on top of this page the small yacht is sailing a spinnaker, not a gennaker. If you look closely you can see the spinnaker pole standing on the mast, visible between the main and headsail. Further down, the discription of the picture with the two German dinghies is incorrect. They are sailing spinnakers, on a spinnaker pole. In the farthest boat, you can see a small piece of the pole. If needed I can give you the details on the difference between gennakers and spinnakers correctly?

Hi Shawn, I am living in Utrecht I have an old gulf 32 and I am sailing in merkmeer I find your articles very helpful Thanks

Thank you for helping me under stand all the sails there names and what there functions were and how to use them. I am planning to build a trimaran 30’ what would be the best sails to have I plan to be coastal sailing with it. Thank you

Hey Comrade!

Well done with your master piece blogging. Just a small feedback. “The jib gives control over the bow of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship.” Can you please first tell the different part of a sail boat earlier and then talk about bow and stern later in the paragraph. A reader has no clue on the newly introduced terms. It helps to keep laser focused and not forget main concepts.

Shawn, I am currently reading How to sail around the World” by Hal Roth. Yes, I want to sail around the world. His book is truly grounded in real world experience but like a lot of very knowledgable people discussing their area of expertise, Hal uses a lot of terms that I probably should have known but didn’t, until now. I am now off to read your second article. Thank You for this very enlightening article on Sail types and their uses.

Shawn Buckles

HI CVB, that’s a cool plan. Thanks, I really love to hear that. I’m happy that it was helpful to you and I hope you are of to a great start for your new adventure!

Hi GOWTHAM, thanks for the tip, I sometimes forget I haven’t specified the new term. I’ve added it to the article.

Nice article and video; however, you’re mixing up the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A started out with a question. What distinguishes a brig from a schooner? Which in turn led to follow-up questions: I know there are Bermuda rigs and Latin rig, are there more? Which in turn led to further questions, and further, and further… This site answers them all. Wonderful work. Thank you.

Great post and video! One thing was I was surprised how little you mentioned the Ketch here and not at all in the video or chart, and your sample image is a large ship with many sails. Some may think Ketch’s are uncommon, old fashioned or only for large boats. Actually Ketch’s are quite common for cruisers and live-aboards, especially since they often result in a center cockpit layout which makes for a very nice aft stateroom inside. These are almost exclusively the boats we are looking at, so I was surprised you glossed over them.

Love the article and am finding it quite informative.

While I know it may seem obvious to 99% of your readers, I wish you had defined the terms “upwind” and “downwind.” I’m in the 1% that isn’t sure which one means “with the wind” (or in the direction the wind is blowing) and which one means “against the wind” (or opposite to the way the wind is blowing.)

paul adriaan kleimeer

like in all fields of syntax and terminology the terms are colouual meaning local and then spead as the technology spread so an history lesson gives a floral bouque its colour and in the case of notical terms span culture and history adds an detail that bring reverence to the study simply more memorable.

Hi, I have a small yacht sail which was left in my lock-up over 30 years ago I basically know nothing about sails and wondered if you could spread any light as to the make and use of said sail. Someone said it was probably originally from a Wayfayer wooden yacht but wasn’t sure. Any info would be must appreciated and indeed if would be of any use to your followers? I can provide pics but don’t see how to include them at present

kind regards

Leave a comment

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Rigging Small Sailboats - Part 2

Rigging small sailboats part 2, .....standing rigging.

T he STANDING RIGGING consists of the wires that hold up and support the mast. Because the mast is in compression and tends to buckle or bend, the standing rigging helps to control the bending. Some small sailboats do not use any standing rigging, and these are said to have free standing unstayed masts (see Figs.2-4 and 2-5). The calculations and methods of figuring the strength of spars and associated rigging are very technical and involved, and should not be undertaken by the novice. Rig your boat as the designer or manufacturer recommends; don't make shortcuts. The material used for the standing rigging is wire rope, usually made from stainless steel, although regular or galvanized steel wire rope is available. Wire rope is measured by the diameter and specified by the composition of the wires used to make up the wire rope (see Fig. 4-1). For example, wire rope designated 1 x 19 would consist of one wire made up of 19 strands. This type is the most common for standing rigging because it is not flexible and is strongest. Another type designated 7 x 19 consists of 7 ropes each consisting of 19 strands. This type, while not as strong, is used where flexibility is important. On boats which use wire rope halyards, the 7 x 19 wire rope is utilized.

O bviously fittings must be attached to the wire rope for it to do a job, and these fittings can be attached by any of several methods. One method is to SWAGE the fitting to the wire rope. Swaging means that the fitting is compressed cold between a pair of dies., Fig. 4-2 shows some swaged fittings commonly used on small sailboats. Another method is the NICOPRESS fitting, a patented method which uses a sleeve wrapped around the wire forming an eye, and gripping both strands together, as shown in Fig. 4-3. A special vise-like tool is, used to clamp the junction tight. With the Nicopress junction, a THIMBLE (grooved metal ring in the looped eye to prevent chafe) must be used. Because of the bend required in the wire rope at the thimble, flexible wire rope such as 7 x 19 should be used for ultimate strength at the junction.

S pecial patented-type swageless terminals are also available for joining fittings to wire rope. One type forms a mechanical joint by use of a sleeve barrel fitted over the wire rope and a plug which is inserted into the end of the wire rope. A socket with the fitting attached to it is screwed into the sleeve. The plug inside the sleeve is compressed tightly against the wire rope strands, thereby forming the connection. With this type of junction, the fittings can be disassembled from the wire rope and reused, whereas the swaged fitting cannot. While this type of fitting can be done with ordinary hand tools, a great deal of the strength of the fitting depends on the ability of the person making the junction. Usually swageless fittings are bulkier and heavier than swaged or Nicopress fittings, although arguments exist as to which is stronger. In all cases, the strength of the fitting depends on the quality of the craftsmanship.

A  method rarely used today for attaching fittings to wire rope is the zinc socket type connection. This method uses molten zinc poured into the fitting to hold it in place. While still used on some "character" boats and commercial craft, it is considered less reliable than any of the above methods.

T he STAYS are wire ropes that support the mast in a fore and aft direction. Technically speaking, any wire that helps support the mast can be called a stay, but in our discussion, we will refer to those at the side of the mast as specifically SHROUDS, described later. Reviewing Fig. 4-4 will aid in following this discussion on stays.

T he FORESTAY supports the mast from the forward side and is usually attached to the hull near the forward end of the boat. On a jibhead rig the forestay is attached to the mast about 7/8 the way up from the base. On a masthead rig the forestay attaches to the masthead. On catamarans because of the twin hulls, the forestay often intersects with a BRIDLE, and the bridle is attached to the bow of each hull. A bridle is a line secured at each end with attachment by another line to the middle of the bridle. Some catamarans use a beam between the hulls at the bow and attach the forestay to this beam at the middle in the conventional manner. On single hull boats, the forestay is connected to the hull at the STEMHEAD (forward point of the hull usually at the deck). The forestay must be capable of withstanding considerable strain. The other stay on masthead rigs that complements the forestay is the BACKSTAY. The backstay supports the mast from the aft side, and runs from the masthead to the aft end of the boat. Some backstays connect to a bridle arrangement such as used on the forestay of catamarans previously mentioned. When the bridle is used on the backstay, in most cases it is to allow clearance at the tiller where it pivots across the deck. A backstay is not usually required on small jibhead rigs, but is virtually always used on masthead rigs. Not all backstays are fixed in position. Those that are not, are called "running backstays" and are usually associated with boats of a size not covered in this book.

T he stays that support the mast at the sides are called SHROUDS, and it is not correct to call them "side stays" or any other name when they are being referred to specifically. As mentioned previously, not all boats use stays, but boats using a forestay will invariably have at least one shroud per side. When a backstay is not used, the shrouds must take most of the forward tension set up by the forestay, and hence are usually set somewhat aft and outboard of the mast. With jibhead rigs on small boats, there is usually only one shroud per side, attached part way up the mast at some predetermined point. The shrouds are attached to the hull by using CHAINPLATES (shown in Fig.  7-1 ). Chainplates are straps of metal bolted to the hull to take the strain transmitted by the shrouds.

W hen the mast requires additional support, two or more sets of spreaders are required, especially on boats which also use a backstay. The set of shrouds which pass through or across the spreader tips and attach to the masthead are called the upper shrouds. They are usually located in line with the side of the mast functioning along the gunwale or rail of the hull or cabin side. The shrouds that join to the mast at the spreader connection are called the lower shrouds, and may connect to the hull forward or aft of the upper shrouds. In some boats it is not uncommon to use two sets of lower shrouds, joining the hull at least several inches apart from each other outboard. The reason shrouds should preferably not junction at a common point is in order to distribute the mast loads over a greater area of the hull.

T he shrouds usually attach to the hull via the chainplates, while the forestay attaches to the stemhead fitting, and the backstay to a backstay tang or chainplate. At the spreaders, the upper shrouds should be protected from chafing where they move at the spreader tips. This is best accomplished by-using non-chafing spreader tips. The spreader tips themselves should be rounded or smoothed so as not to chafe or snag the sails.

A s mentioned previously, sometimes supplementary stays are required, and these are usually the diamond stay or jumper stay. They use the same type of wire as other stays although perhaps not as heavy, but they never junction with the hull. All stays and shrouds should have some means of adjustment, and several methods for providing this are commonly used. The most familiar item is the TURNBUCKLE (a fitting with a screw link for tightening the stay) which is available in a variety of types. A typical turnbuckle is shown in Fig. 4-5. Turnbuckles can be attached to the wire rope stays with either a swaged fitting or Nicopress eye and thimble. If the unit is swaged, the turnbuckle must be free to pivot so no bending will occur where the wire enters the swaged area. This is accomplished by using a swivel connector which is integral with the turnbuckle. All turnbuckles should have a means of locking them once the stays have been adjusted. Turnbuckles usually have a jaw and pin which connects them at their lower ends to the chainplate or deck fitting.

A nother method of adjusting stays and shrouds is with a STAY ADJUSTER (see Figs. 3-4 and 6-2). The stay adjuster consists of a shaped section of metal, usually stainless steel, with several holes for adjustment. The lower end of the stay adjuster is pinned to the chainplate, while the stay is attached with a pin through any one of the holes in the stay adjuster which give the proper adjustment to the stay. Stay adjusters are less costly than turnbuckles, and when used, no turnbuckle is required for the respective stay. However, stay adjusters are not capable of varying tension on the mast as are turnbuckles, and for this reason, it is common on simple rigs using three stays to use stay adjusters with the shrouds, and a turnbuckle on the forestay which is used to vary the tension once the proper adjustment is set up in the stay adjusters. Once set up, there is no need to ever readjust the stay adjuster, even though the slack stay adjuster to leeward when sailing on a tack could be set up tauter (assuming both sides are readjusted equally) thereby putting more tension in the rig. On rigs with multiple shrouds plus forestay and backstay, it is desirable to use turnbuckles on each stay instead of stay adjusters in order to set each stay properly. It is possible to connect stay adjusters to deck plates in lieu of the chainplate thereby eliminating the need for the chainplate. But, chainplates are more desirable as they distribute the strains imposed by the stays over a larger area.

A nother more elaborate device for stay tension adjustment is somewhat like the stay adjuster, but consists of a lever actuator which gives extra power in tensioning the stay. These are called HYFIELD LEVERS (Fig. 4-6) which come in a wide variety of types and sizes, and are often used for tensioning problems other than with stays. Hyfield levers are usually associated with competition-type craft where immediate stay adjustment is required.

A  last means of attaching stays is by means of a simple rope lashing. The rope is merely lashed through rings or thimble eyes attached to the chainplate or bridle on catamarans, and at the lower ends of the stays. Rope lashings should be polyester lines which will not stretch, and should be of ample size. Stays can be attached to the mast in several different manners, part of which may be dictated by whether the mast is made of wood or aluminum. In most cases the stay must be fitted with some form of an eye which will allow it to be attached to the mast via a fitting such as the tang or masthead. As shown in Figs. 4-2 and 4-3, these methods can be a conventional eye, fork or jaw, or a ball joint connected to a fork strap or eye strap. On masthead rigs, it is desirable to give the backstay and fore stay a universal action at the masthead attachment. This can be done with the ball joint type fitting, or by the use of a TOGGLE (a swivel connector as shown in Fig. 3-9). The reason is to prevent bending of the wire rope where it joins to the fitting attached to the wire rope.

..running rigging

INTRODUCTION

T he RUNNING RIGGING consists of the lines used for hoisting and controlling the sails directly, or indirectly such as through control of the boom. The boat in Fig. 5-1 shows many of the lines used for the running rigging in position. The running rigging moves about the boat, or can be moved. The LINES are usually made from ROPE. Once the rope becomes operational in the boat, it is then referred to as a "line". This then is the difference between line and rope. Most lines on small sailboats are made from synthetic twisted or braided rope, such as polyester or polypropylene. Nylon is usually not a good line because it stretches too much. Ropes of natural materials such as hemp are seldom used anymore. Wire rope is sometimes used for some running rigging, but must be connected to rope at the moving ends that must be handled. A type of rope made especially to be easy on the hands is called "YACHT BRAID" or other similar proprietary name, and is more costly than the normal braided line. Rope sizes are commonly noted by the approximate diameter of the rope, even though it was once common to give the size by the circumference.

T he lines used for hoisting and lowering the sails are called HALYARDS. The halyards run up and down the mast across a sheave (pronounced "shiv") at or near the top of the mast. Halyards that are outside the mast are called "external" halyards, and those that run inside a hollow mast are called "internal" halyards. Halyards on small boats can be made of rope, and often stainless steel wire rope is also used. When wire rope is used, it should be the flexible type such as 7 x 19. In the case of wire rope halyards, a portion of braided or twisted rope must be attached to the running end so the crew can handle the halyard without injuring their hands. The braided rope is then attached to the wire rope either with a Nicopress eye, or by a special splicing. On large boats, special halyard winches designed for wire rope preclude the need for a rope tailing.

S everal methods are used to attach the halyards to the head cringle of the sails. Probably the most common method is the use of a SHACKLE, a "U"-shaped fitting with an openable pin at the open portion of the "U" which passes through the head cringle (see Fig. 6-2). The halyard is attached to the shackle either with a spliced eye, Nicopress eye, or it is sometimes merely tied by a knot. A better method when wire rope is used is to use a ball joint with the shackle fitted onto the wire rope halyard before the ball has been swaged on (see Fig. 4-2 'a'). When wire rope halyards are used with a ball joint, a HALYARD HOOK should be used near the masthead. This fitting prevents hoisting the sail beyond a predetermined point up the mast. Sometimes an additional halyard hook is located near the mast base for the running end of the wire rope halyard with another ball swaged at this end to secure the halyard.

A nother method used to attach halyards to sails is with BRUMMEL HOOKS (as shown in Fig. 5-2). These are special patented fittings used in pairs which allow quick attachment once you get the hang of using them. The Brummel hooks come in a wide variety of sizes and types which can be used for other situations as well as with halyards. One hook passes through the cringle at the head of the sail, and another goes through the eye at the end of the halyard, or can be merely knotted to the halyard. The two connect with a twist of the wrist.

T he lines used to control the trim or position of the sails are called SHEETS. The line used to control the mainsail is called the MAINSHEET, and the line used to control the jib is called the JIB SHEET. Rope is used for the sheets, and "yacht braid" type is often used because it is easier on the hands and does not kink or jam as easily as twisted rope. Because the force of the wind on the sails is often greater than the strength of the crew, it is often necessary for the sheets to have a built-in "mechanical advantage." This is where the various blocks (or "pulleys") and winches come onto the scene in various configurations to ease the work of the crew.

W inches ease the work required in pulling or trimming the sheets, such as on jib sheets, as in Fig. 5-13. A winch gains mechanical advantage due to its gear ratio, diameter of the handle, and by the drum diameter of the winch. To determine the mechanical advantage (or power ratio), use the following formula: Radius of handle divided by the Radius of the drum X the Gear ratio = Power ratio. This means that power can be gained by either increasing the gear ratio, or radius of the handle, or decreasing the drum radius, or a combination of all three. Usually the drum radius should not be decreased because the winch will then do the work more slowly. On small boats such as being discussed here, most winches will not have gears and are thus referred to as "direct drive" winches such as shown in Fig. 5-14. Often used on small boats are winches which do not have handles either, and these are called "snubbing" winches (Fig. 5-15). Winches are usually relatively expensive items, and because mechanical advantage can be gained by other means, they are considered "deluxe" equipment on boats under about 25' in length.

JIB SHEET LEAD

T he sheet used to control the jib must be lead to a point on the boat that affords optimum setting of the jib (if one is used). If a Genoa jib is used, a separate sheet lead must be determined for this sail also. Since the jib sheets are in two parts (one for starboard, and the other for port), a lead point will be located on each side of the boat. In determining the lead points, the designer probably uses a formula similar to that shown in Fig. 5-16, which is at best always an approximation. Because methods used to determine jib sheet leads are approximations, and because no two sails will trim the same, it is best to make the sheet lead point adjustable by using lengths of tracks and sliding fittings attached to them. Another method for determining the jib sheet lead, at least on small boats, is to actually sail the boat with the jib in position and thereby determine the optimum setting in actual use. When the optimum point has been located, mark with a pencil and attach the appropriate fittings to the deck.

DOWNHAULS AND BOOM VANGS

N ot all boats use downhauls or boom vangs, but they are used enough to warrant discussion. A DOWNHAUL is merely a line used to haul down on something, usually the tack of the sail, or the boom where the tack of the sail is located (see Fig. 3-12). A boom downhaul fitting or eye is often a part of the sliding gooseneck, to which the downhaul is attached to prevent the gooseneck from sliding up the mast. Once the sail has been hoisted with the halyard and pulled taut to a cleat, the downhaul can be used to gain further tension along the luff of the sail by pulling down and making fast to a cleat. Naturally, a similar downhaul could be used on the jib. A special type of downhaul called a "CUNNINGHAM" requires that the sail have an additional cringle usually located several inches above the tack cringle. The "Cunningham" is usually used on competition boats where more shape control of the sail is desired along the luff, but because of the racing rules, the boom cannot be hauled down below a certain pre-designated point.

A  BOOM VANG (also called a "go faster" and "kicking strap") is a device that performs several functions. The boom vang is a tackle arrangement (see Figs. 5-17 and 5-18) connected at one end to the mast near its base, and with the other end preferably about 1/3 the distance of the boom aft of the mast. The boom vang helps take the undesirable "twist" out of the sail on all courses off (or away) from the wind, flattens the mainsail on a tack (sailing in the direction of the wind), and prevents the boom from lifting in case of accidental jibes (the boom moving rapidly from one side to the other when sailing downwind).

HOW TO FIGURE A TACKLE

I n order to figure a tackle to control a mainsail, for example, you must first know the area of the sail. Once the area of the sail is known, figure the "load" caused by the wind on the sail. In figuring for a mainsail which has the mainsheet lead at the end of the boom, figure wind load by multiplying the sail area by 1.5 lbs. per square foot. If the mainsheet leads to the boom midpoint, multiply the sail area by 3 lbs. per square foot. (For figuring the jib or Genoa, also multiply by 3 lbs.) Actually, these factors are only estimates by rule-of thumb and allow a safety factor in consideration of varying sailing conditions, rig designs, and wind forces up to 20 knots, but the results will usually be close enough.

I f, for example, a mainsail has 100 square feet of area, the mainsheet load at the end of the boom would be 100 square feet multiplied by 1.5 lbs. and would equal 150 lbs. Obviously, in order to control this sail it would require 150 lbs. of "pull" at times on the sheet. So to reduce this effort, we devise a tackle. But how many "parts" should be included in the tackle? Again a rule-of-thumb is used which says that most people can pull 30 to 50 lbs. on a line BY HAND. If using a cam cleat on the end of a line, this figure can be increased, say up to 75 lbs. or more for he-man types! But, in most cases, it is good to stick to the 30 to 50 lb. range, if practical.

T he ability of a tackle to do work depends on the number of "parts" or lengths of line BETWEEN the blocks as shown in Fig. 5-3. The more parts, the easier will be the job, but consequently the longer will be the length of line AND TIME to move the load or boom a given distance. To determine the effort required on the line when rigged in the tackle, divide the total wind load by the number of parts in the tackle. For example, using our 100 square foot sail, divide the wind load of 150 lbs. by 4 (if we wanted a 4-part tackle) and arrive at 37.5 lbs. of pull required to move the boom or load. However suitable this figure may be, we must DEDUCT a certain amount that will be lost due to friction caused by the sheaves in the blocks, and other factors that take away from our gain in mechanical advantage. Again another rule-of-thumb is used which figures a 10% loss for every sheave used in the tackle. Therefore, with a 4-part tackle which has four sheaves, multiply each sheave by 10% for a total of 40%, which is then multiplied against the total wind load (40% x 150 lbs.) for a total of 60 lbs. lost to friction and other losses. (While the 10% figure is not technically exact, it is close enough to use as a practical short cut, and it does yield conservative results.) To the result (60 lbs.) add 150 lbs. (wind load) for a total load of 210 lbs. Divide this figure by the number of parts in the tackle (4) for a result of 52.5 lbs., or just about the maximum for holding a sheet by hand in a 20 knot wind. If we use a jam cleat to secure the sheet, this tackle will prove sufficient to do the job under just about all conditions short of having to reduce sail area. This example can be used to figure other tackles as well. In summary: SAIL AREA X FACTOR (1.5 OR 3) divided by NUMBER OF PARTS IN TACKLE EFFORT (BEFORE FRICTION LOSS).

To figure power loss in tackle: WIND LOAD X 10% PER SHEAVE FRICTION LOSS; WIND LOAD + FRICTION LOSS = TOTAL LOAD IN LBS.

To figure load on end of sheet which crew must handle: TOTAL LOAD IN LBS. divided by NUMBER OF PARTS IN TACKLE = LOAD IN LBS. AT END OF SHEET.

.....deck fittings

"D eck fittings" is a general classification for all hardware used with the running or standing rigging, as well as the spars, even though the fittings may not always be mounted to the deck. Deck fittings may be located on cabin tops, cockpit members, and centerboard trunks as well. There are endless numbers and styles of fittings available, and the number of new fittings and inventions, plus modifications to existing ones, is constantly increasing. We will attempt to describe those which are most generally used in the size sailboats under discussion.

A  BLOCK is a wood, metal, or synthetic casing that contains one or more grooved pulleys called sheaves. Blocks are the primary pieces of equipment in the running rigging, and come in a wide variety of sizes and types. Besides adding mechanical advantage to the running rigging, blocks are used to change direction of the line passing through them. Conventional blocks must be attached to something in order to work, and the most common method used is by a shackle that is usually an integral part of the block. Three types of shackles are used; front, side, and swivel shackles. Fig. 6-1 shows the difference between front and side shackles, but the trend is to fit blocks with adjustable shackles which can be mounted either with a front or a side shackle using just one block or with a swivel shackle. A front or side shackle is used to keep the block in one position or plane of reference, whereas a swivel shackle allows the block to turn to any position.

A  BECKET is often fitted to blocks at the opposite end of the shackle. The becket is a fitting on the block onto which a line with an eye, or another fitting such as a hook, can be attached, as in forming a tackle. Some of the common blocks are illustrated in Fig. 6-2.

A  FIDDLE BLOCK as shown in Fig. 6-3 contains two sheaves, one above the other with one usually smaller in diameter than the other. It looks like a "fiddle." A fiddle block may have a becket as well as a cam cleat arrangement (see Fig. 6-4) for use with main sheets and boom vangs. A CHEEK BLOCK (see Fig. 6-2) lays flat to its base, with the base being fastened to the deck. The cheek block is commonly used to change direction of a line. SWIVEL DECK BLOCKS (Fig. 6-5) have a base which fastens to the deck and allows the block to assume a near-vertical position capable of swiveling in any direction. A BULLET BLOCK is a single block of small size which usually has no shackle (see Fig. 5-12). The top of the bullet block is usually shaped to attach through the eye of a line, an eye strap, or to a boom bail. A TRAVELER BLOCK is one with two sheaves, one above the other, and with one at right angles to the other (see Fig. 6-2). One sheave is for the traveler, and the other for the mainsheet. No shackle is used. Sometimes two bullet blocks interlocked at the straps can be made to form a traveler block.

W hen wire rope is used, blocks must be used which are intended for this material. Some blocks are available which have sheaves suitable for use with both rope and wire rope. The sheaves of these blocks have a regular groove for the rope, and a narrower but deeper groove within the regular groove to suit the wire rope.

A  CAM CLEAT is a fitting used to belay (halt and secure) a line. The line passes between two serrated cams which allow the line to be pulled through in only one direction. To release the line, it is pulled up and out of the cams. Fig. 6-6 shows a typical cam cleat. Cam cleats often have a fairlead to guide the line into the cams. Regular cam cleats are normally mounted flat to the deck. A cam cleat arrangement is often attached integrally to a fiddle block for adjusting a boom vang or main sheet. A deluxe fitting is a swiveling mainsheet cam cleat (Figs. 6-7 and 6-8) which comes with a block and a fairlead to change direction of the mainsheet, leading it into the cam cleat. The benefit of this fitting is that the helmsman need not hold onto the mainsheet, but it can he released in an instant by giving it a yank upwards. It also swivels so the sheet will be at hand on any tack.

T RACKS are formed metal or plastic rails on which fittings can be attached to allow them to move. A piece of track is used where it is desirable to have the position of the fitting adjustable. Tracks can also be used to attach the sail to the spars in some cases. Tracks are commonly used for the jib and Genoa sheet leads which pass through fittings attached to slides moving on the tracks. These fittings can range from a fairlead slide, or a block on a slide, or even a cam cleat on a slide. Some typical slides and tracks are shown in Fig. 6-9. Tracks are also used for the clew outhaul slide and for sliding goosenecks. When the gooseneck mounts to a slide, a downhaul is used as well to allow for adjustment. Jib and Genoa tracks, and tracks used for travelers should be fitted with stops at the ends to prevent the fittings from sliding off the tracks. In selecting tracks, remember that the fitting to be used must be made to fit the type track being used.

CLEATS, FAIRLEADS, AND EYES

C LEATS (Fig. 3-19) are fittings to which lines are belayed and secured. With small sailboats, a common cleat is a JAM CLEAT. These allow a line to be taken through or turned around the jam cleat in such a manner so that it will not slip free. Jam cleats are commonly used to secure halyards and sheets. Many kinds of patented-type jam mechanisms are also available which are often referred to as "jam cleats" because they perform the same function.

F AIRLEADS are actually any fittings which give a "fair lead" to any line (see Fig. 6-2). Fairleads are usually eye-shaped fittings which minimize or prevent chafing of the line which passes through it. Fair fairlead (left) and leads usually change the direction of the line passing through them as well. As noted previously, a block can be used to change the direction of a line also, thereby making it a type of "fairlead" too. Fairleads can be fixed to the deck, swiveling, or mounted on tracks.

E YES such as PAD EYES, DEAD EYES, and EYE STRAPS are used to secure a line or a fitting to the boat (see Fig. 6-2). Many types are available to fulfill a variety of functions. Pad eyes, when fitted with a shackle, can secure a block to the hull and allow it to adopt the right position for proper sheet lead. Deadeye straps are often used to secure a traveler line or mainsheet to the hull. The traveler or mainsheet is knotted to prevent it from coming through the eyes.

S ome comments on winches have been made previously. The variety and type of winches available to the sailor is enormous, but for the small boat sailor, winches usually are restricted to the smaller sizes used to control the jib and Genoa sheets. Winches can be used for the halyards, boom vang, and mainsheets, if desired. On small boats the cost is usually prohibitive, and the extra power gained is not required, as these lines can be handled by the crew or by other means, such as tackles, equally well.

RUDDER FITTINGS

S mall sailboats usually have rudders which are called "outboard" rudders because they hang onto the aft end of the boat in full view. Boats which have rudders under the hull and the rudder stock passing through the hull bottom are said to have "inboard" rudders, but these are usually associated with large boats. The ordinary small boat rudder is attached to the boat with fittings that also allow the rudder to pivot or turn. These fittings are called GUDGEONS and PINTLES. These are arranged in pairs, with the gudgeons usually being attached to the boat, and the pintles fastened to the rudder. The pintles are strap-like fittings with the rudder fitting between the straps, and with a pin at the forward edge which fits into the "eye" of the gudgeons (see Fig. 6-10). As with most fittings, many sizes and types are available. Often gudgeons and pintles come in pairs which have a long pintle and a shorter one. These types make it easier to put the rudder on the boat, as the long pintle will be in position first, thereby acting as a guide for the short one. If both pintles are the same length, both must fit into the gudgeons at the same moment, which is frustrating at times, especially when trying to place the rudder in position when afloat. Because many small boat rudders are made of wood, the tendency is for these to float up and out of the gudgeons, of course, making for an immediate loss of steering and much embarrassment. A device called a RUDDER STOP can be used to prevent this from occuring. These are standard marine hardware items very simple in nature.

F or small sailboats which land on the beach, it is desirable to have the rudder "kick up" when approaching shallow waters. Special "kick-up" rudder fittings such as shown in Fig. 6-11 are available, which also have the gudgeons and pintles attached as an integral unit, and perform this function. With a little effort, you can make your own "kick-up" rudder similar to the detail shown in Fig. 6-12.

T he rudder is controlled by a handle called the TILLER. Sometimes the tiller passes through a hole in the transom (back of the boat), but usually it is located above the aft deck area and pivots up and down so the crew can move about easily. The length of the tiller is best determined in actual use, so it should be made longer than necessary. It's much easier to cut off a long tiller than to add length to a short one. A device recommended for easier control, especially when tacking or sailing to windward, is a TILLER EXTENSION or "hiking stick," an example of which is shown in Fig. 6-13. When sailing to windward in a small boat, the boat usually heels considerably and the crew must lean out to windward (or "hike out") to counteract this. In order to hang onto the tiller in this position, an extension is required, fixed to the forward end of the tiller and preferably fitted with a universal-type joint. Naturally, the length of such a unit is best determined in actual use, so it is best to get a long one which can be cut, instead of getting one too short which can't be added to.

Click HERE to to on to Part 3

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Sail Rigging Diagrams?

• Thread starter Pkeller
• Start date Aug 21, 2020
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Smaller Boats

Hello, I recently purchased a 1993 Hunter 23.5 sailboat. The boom and sail was stored in the boat so I had to put those up myself, I attached the boom to the mast using the bracket and pin found on the mast. I then took the fixed line attached to the top of the mast and ran it through the center roller at the far end of the boom and tied it back upon itself (the manual was not very clear on how this was to be attached). I attached the top of the sail via a pin through a u bolt at the end of the halyard, raised the sail inserting the pins into the track in the mast. After this I dropped the sail and tied the bottom of the sail to the line coming out of the boom, pulled it and fed the pin and bottom of the sail into the track on the boom. This leaves me with the tack I believe it's called having no attachment point...how is this affixed on the boat? The manual is no help on this and I've spent hours looking for videos or resources online. I tried looking at other boats in the marina but they seem to have clips where the mast and boom meet that I don't. Am I missing pieces? Does anyone have pictures they could share? I can post some pictures of what I've done tomorrow in the event it helps rectify any error I have made. Thanks in advance for any help, truly appreciated!  

Will definitely post up relevant pictures when I go back down tomorrow, wish I had the foresight to snap a few earlier.  

Crazy Dave Condon

Have you looked at manual under boat info?  

So your problem is the lack of a tack fitting on the boom? It attaches somehow. Tack fittings are usually part of the boom. Maybe welded on. There isn't two dog ears on the front topside of the boom? If there is there should be holes on either side that can accept a clevis pin which goes through the sail tack cringle in the middle. The holes don't have to be the same size and one may be threaded. I don't think the fitting would be on the mast - at least I don't think I've ever seen that. I have seen almost any manor of attachment on different boats including bolts. There isn't one way. Sometimes the clevis pins are custom and if they go overboard the owner has to innovate. We'll look forward to the pics.  

It looks like your boat may use a shackle like the one at the head of the sail  

In looking at the diagrams I am thinking my boom should be using the lower hole on the mast, which would reduce stress and perhaps I am missing a pin or shackle which would hold the tack to the hole I am currently using to hold the boom? Not sure if the boom has a deep enough gap to allow this configuration, will have to test tomorrow. If that ends up being the solution then I am still wondering if anyone knows the proper way for the boom topping lift to be affixed to the other end of the boom....the rope contraption I inherited cannot be right but I have no idea what it should look like. So badly wish there was a similar boat nearby that I could look at the rigging  

Sail sfbay's diagram pretty much gives you all you need. 1. There are usually 2 holes in the headboard(that's the plate at the top of the sail where you afix the halyard.)One hole for the halyard connection, the other for the topmost slider/slug. There's enough room to add another slide, you can attach it with a couple wraps of cord, or maybe even find a metal or plastic shackle that'll fit. I'd just tie it on rather than spend a lot of time fitting the shackle. 2. Regarding the mainsail's forward boom connection there are usually two cringles (holes with grommets) pretty close together, the lower one is for the attachment to the boom fitting. Since I don't see a ramshead(that's what they call the hook style attachment) no big deal. Again, you can go find a single or twin hook and a fastener, or a big clevis pin.... but if it were me... I'd just tie it on the same way you'll do with the mast slider.. you can even use more of the same line.. just wrap it around 3 or 4 times and tie a slip knot. Go sailing. Okay, the upper cringle, if you have one, is for the cunningham. I leave it to you to research that... but a cunningham is a very useful sail adjustment tool. Instead of using the halyard to control tension on the main, the cunningham takes it over.. tensioning downward rather than up with the halyard. There will be a 3rd cringle a couple feet higher, that will be at matching height with a cringle on the leech. This is your 1st reef point. Many boats will only have 2nd, even 3rd set of reef points... if yours does.... that's cool...butl you'll learn about that later... if not... no worries. 3. This brings us to your boom end set up. If you examine sf bay's illustration.. there are three sheaves, you'll see one for the outhaul's control line. one for the leech reef point, and one for the "adjustable" topping lift. This set up is pretty handy. What you'll need to do is get rid of that swollen rag of line you have now, and get some 1/4" line long enough to connect the static line topping lift, down through the block at the end then all the way forward where the outhaul emerges. Usually there's some kind of built in cleat at the front end, but it might be more convenient to route the line aft to a simple cleat mounted on the coach roof so you can control it from the cockpit. Again, closely inspect the diagram. Others will be happy to explain the function of the topping lift. Seems like you've figured out the outhaul, that is a super important sail adjustment, it usually has some purchase configuration hidden inside, so make sure it works. Finally. the reefing line should be set up per the diagram. It will exit the front of the boom as noted before. You'll have one line for the leech (back) and one for the luff (front). To set up the mast end you'll want to extend a line from one side of the mast , up through the reef cringle, then back down to fastening point on the other side of the mast ... a simple horn cleat will work fine... this will give you 2:1 purchase to get the luff nice and tight when you reef. Look for a small eye strap a foot or so below the boom on the side of the mast... the cleat would be on the opposite side. Okay, that's my two cents. Good luck, have fun.  

Thanks, I will take a look when I head down today and see what I can do. Admittedly I had assumed that my rigging would be set up on the boat and I could simply take notes so this has been a journey...previous owner I was told basically used as a motorboat.  

Yeah, a long shackle or a lashing. It looks like there was a long shackle there from the scratches on the gooseneck. Another way to locate the tack is to raise the sail all the way up in light wind. Where does the tack cringle land? Chances are the sail was built custom so where the tack is, is where it's supposed to be. Regarding your topping lift, I was wondering why it is so short. I think it's short so that the boom can be lifted over your Bimini. To sail with the bimini up the boom has to be over it. Maybe that'll work with sail shape maybe not. Usually you would want to sail with the topping life SLACK and let the leach of the sail determine the height of the boom. So whatever arrangement you make to attach the topping lift to the boom, it has to be adjustable. Maybe you can put a small block on one side of the boom and run a line from that eye, through the block and into a cleat - probably a small jam cleat with an eye to retain the line. You'll have a dangling line to deal with when the boom is in up position. On my Hunter 356 the topping lift wasn't fixed. It went through a sheave at the top of the mast and down to a cleat on the outside of the mast. You could adjust it there. I think it was internal so you would need an exit box. That would likely be above your head so you can give it a good yank. That's a winter project because you would likely need to drop the mast. Hoist the main and take it out in light air. I'd be interested in how that boom/bimini relationship goes. Maybe it looks like more of a problem in the picture than it is.  

Thank you, yes I am fairly certain the bimini will have to be down while sailing, looks to be an 'at anchor's type as it would not only interfere from a height standpoint with the boom but also with how far forward it extends: beyond the ropes that tie down from the boom to keep it from swinging.  

The stock method of attaching the topping lift (same as on my H23) by routing it through the boom up to and through the forward sheave and the jam cleat below the sheave has a disadvantage - when you remove the boom you have to pull the line out of the boom, and then re-thread it before you replace the boom. There is an improvement noted somewhere (it may be in the H23 section) that improves this. You can attach a thin line or stainless wire to the masthead fitting used for the topping lift that ends about 3 ft above the boom end when it is horizontal. Use a thimble or knot such as a bowline to attach a small swivel block to the lower end of this topping lift. Run a low stretch line (approx 1/4 inch diam) by tying one end to the thin "bar" behind the sheaves at the aft end of the boom (or use a small shackle), running it up to and through the swivel block, back down to the sheave for the topping lift (port side sheave according to the diagram), through the boom and out the forward sheave. You still have to go forward to adjust the topping lift (but no need to install new hardware on the boom), plus it gives you 2 to 1 mechanical advantage. The topping lift itself can stay attached to the masthead. You untie or unshackle the working line from the "bar" and pull it out of the swivel block to remove the boom, but leave it threaded inside the boom; no need to re-thread it through the boom. I used an electrical fishing wire to initially get that line through the boom. The 23.5 probably does not have any internal blocks in the boom to get in the way; at least, the 23 does not.  

isaksp00 said: The stock method of attaching the topping lift (same as on my H23) by routing it through the boom up to and through the forward sheave and the jam cleat below the sheave has a disadvantage - when you remove the boom you have to pull the line out of the boom, and then re-thread it before you replace the boom. There is an improvement noted somewhere (it may be in the H23 section) that improves this. You can attach a thin line or stainless wire to the masthead fitting used for the topping lift that ends about 3 ft above the boom end when it is horizontal. Use a thimble or knot such as a bowline to attach a small swivel block to the lower end of this topping lift. Run a low stretch line (approx 1/4 inch diam) by tying one end to the thin "bar" behind the sheaves at the aft end of the boom (or use a small shackle), running it up to and through the swivel block, back down to the sheave for the topping lift (port side sheave according to the diagram), through the boom and out the forward sheave. You still have to go forward to adjust the topping lift (but no need to install new hardware on the boom), plus it gives you 2 to 1 mechanical advantage. The topping lift itself can stay attached to the masthead. You untie or unshackle the working line from the "bar" and pull it out of the swivel block to remove the boom, but leave it threaded inside the boom; no need to re-thread it through the boom. I used an electrical fishing wire to initially get that line through the boom. The 23.5 probably does not have any internal blocks in the boom to get in the way; at least, the 23 does not. Click to expand

You could use a turning block (or a swivel block attached to the mast tabernacle if it has holes), but then you'd need a way to cleat the line or use a rope clutch on the cabin roof somewhere near the aft end (and you don't need or want a heavy line, so a clutch may not work), so it was accessible from the cockpit. I only adjust my topping lift twice per outing. Once to slack it some once the sail is up, and once to tighten it before lowering the sail. It isn't hat big of a deal to go forward twice, to me.  

twistedskipper

To the original poster, You may already have sorted out your gooseneck, but in case you could still use some photos, I did finally get some of the gooseneck on my Hunter 26, which appears to be very similar, though not identical, to yours. In my photos, the mainsail happened to be reefed, so you can see how the tack is shackled as well as how the reef point is hooked. Not all reef points are set up with a loop like this one is, a cringle (grommet) is more typical. One thing I noticed in your original photo is that the gooseneck bracket riveted to your mast appears to be in two pieces, with the swivel captive between them. Mine is one piece and the swivel pin is removable. In your case, it looks like you would have to remove either the upper or lower part of the mast bracket if for any reason you needed to remove the swivel. Those rivets aren't too hard to drill out and install. It also looks to me in your photo like either that swivel or the holes in the bracket might be worn, the swivel seems to have sagged in towards the mast on its bottom pin. Might want to take close look at that to confirm if it fits as designed and keep an eye on it (marked up photo attached).  

Attachments

Thanks all, really appreciate all the insight! Struggling to get the new rams head hook I bought fully into the hole it belongs in as it gets stuck sideways and there doesn't appear to be enough room to rotate it all the way thru, however I am working on it bit by bit. I've used the imperfect setup I have to sail with my main so I build some experience before summer is over, waiting for a rainy day to make a trip out to west marine for a few parts to make some of the great improvements suggested earlier. At least for now I picked up a new line and re-tied the topping lift off to the boom without the rats nest hanging there; I struggled to feed the line through the boom forward, need a wire or something to feed it with as the rope can only be fed so far by itself before there isn't enough line tension to push it further forward, but it has worked temporarily.  

I've used a plumbers snake or a length of plasticized 1X19 wire to fish lines through the boom. I learned two things in physics class: 1) F=MA and 2) You can't push a rope.  

Or get a cheap electricians fish tape at a place like Harbor Freight  

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Mainsheet Rigging Diagram: A Comprehensive Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 9, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

==Short answer mainsheet rigging diagram:== The mainsheet rigging diagram is a visual representation that outlines the setup and configuration of the mainsheet system on a sailboat. It typically includes details such as the location of blocks, cleats, and other hardware, as well as the path that the mainsheet follows. This diagram helps sailors understand and follow correct rigging procedures for optimal sail handling and control.

Understanding the Basics: A Step-by-Step Guide to Mainsheet Rigging Diagram

Welcome to our blog section where we dive into the nitty-gritty details of mainsheet rigging diagrams. If you’re new to sailing or just starting to familiarize yourself with this important aspect of boat handling, this step-by-step guide will provide you with all the necessary information in a professional yet witty and clever manner.

First things first, let’s understand the basics . A mainsheet rigging diagram is essentially a visual representation of how different components come together to control the tension and angle of your mainsail. It acts as your roadmap for properly setting up and adjusting your mainsheet system, ensuring optimal performance on the water .

Now, let’s break it down step by step:

Step 1: Identify the Components A good rigging diagram will clearly identify all the key components involved in your mainsheet setup. This includes the mainsheet itself, blocks, cleats, traveler car (if applicable), boom vang (if present), and any other relevant hardware. Understanding each component beforehand is essential for comprehending how they interact with one another.

Step 2: Determine Attachment Points Next, refer to your rigging diagram to find out where each component needs to be attached on your boat. The diagram will typically display specific locations such as boom attachment point, traveler car track position, or mast base attachment. Proper attachment ensures that everything is in its place, allowing for smooth operation during sailing maneuvers.

Step 3: Follow Line Pathways Lines play a crucial role in main control systems; therefore it is vital to follow their designated pathways as shown in the rigging diagram. These pathways illustrate how the lines route through blocks, fairleads or around various sheaves on both ends (boom and deck). Pay attention to any twists or crosses indicated on the diagram – avoiding these can prevent line jams when under load.

Step 4: Tackle Block Configuration Understanding block configurations outlined in your rigging diagram helps you achieve the right mechanical advantage. It may feature single, double, or even triple blocks, and understanding their set-up assists in distributing the load appropriately. Additionally, some diagrams might incorporate purchase systems using various line lengths to further enhance control.

Step 5: Adjust Tensions and Angles Lastly, your rigging diagram will provide information on how to adjust tensions and angles for different sailing conditions. It can include tips on optimal mainsheet tension for upwind versus downwind sailing or advice on adjusting boom height using a vang. This knowledge enables you to fine-tune your sail trim and maximize performance throughout your voyage .

So there you have it – a comprehensive step-by-step guide to mainsheet rigging diagrams! Following these instructions will ensure that you have a solid grasp of how all the components fit together, how lines should be routed, and how to make necessary adjustments when sailing.

Remember, while the topic might seem technical at first glance, we believe injecting some wit and cleverness into the explanation can make learning more enjoyable. So embrace this guide as your key to mastering mainsheet rigging diagrams with style!

How to Properly Set Up a Mainsheet Rigging Diagram: A Comprehensive Overview

Mastering the art of sailing involves not only skillful navigation but also a deep understanding of the recommended rigging diagram for your mainsheet. The mainsheet, which is responsible for controlling the position of the mainsail, plays a crucial role in dictating the overall performance and maneuverability of your sailboat. In this comprehensive guide, we will unravel the intricacies of setting up a mainsheet rigging diagram flawlessly. So grab your favorite maritime beverage and let’s dive right in!

The first step in establishing an impeccable mainsheet rigging diagram is selecting the appropriate equipment. Your choice of hardware will strongly influence how efficiently you are able to adjust and control the tension on your mainsail. Opt for high-quality blocks, preferably ball bearing ones, as they reduce friction and allow for smooth sheeting. Remember that investing in quality hardware now will save you from headaches later on when battling against strong winds or trying to make precise adjustments on gusty days.

Now that we have our top-notch equipment ready, let’s move on to positioning our blocks effectively along with all necessary lines (sheet) involved in this setup. It’s essential to ensure that there are no unnecessary twists or tangles in any part of the system as they drag down performance while causing unneeded frustration.

Begin by attaching one end of your sheet to a fixed point near the stern side of your boat . This point should be appropriately positioned for easy reach from your desired helm location—a smart sailor always plans ahead! Make sure the sheet runs freely through each block without any abrasion points or sharp corners that could snag it during rapid movements—smooth sailing is what we aim for here.

Next, work your way towards those strategic locations where blocks need affixing – typically at multiple points along either side deck or cabin roof – depending on the size and design of your vessel. These attachment points should be selected judiciously, considering factors such as angle, load distribution, and accessibility. Securing these blocks with reinforced backing plates or similar reinforcements will provide extra support, particularly in conditions that warrant additional strength.

Now let’s talk about the main sheeting technique—the final piece of the puzzle that brings your mainsheet rigging diagram to life! When properly executed, this technique allows you to gain full control over the position of your mainsail effortlessly. The most common approach is a 2:1 purchase system, offering mechanical advantage while maintaining manageable loads on your hands.

To achieve this setup, start by taking a free-running end from one of the blocks along the cabin roof or side deck and lead it around the backside of the mast towards an adjacent block located on the opposite side. Once there, thread it through this second block (which forms an inverted “V” shape with its counterpart) and bring it back towards you—forming what appears to be a rather fancy pulley system!

By doing so, you essentially create two segments of line – each running under different sides of your boom – that can be tied together using a simple knot or shackle hitch. This clever arrangement doubles up your pulling power without needing Popeye-like forearms to control sail tensions effectively—a truly elegant solution!

It’s worth mentioning that personal preferences might affect how you choose to set up your mainsheet rigging diagram. Some sailors opt for alternative systems like a 3:1 or even 4:1 purchase configuration for added convenience in rougher weather conditions or on behemoth-sized boats with correspondingly larger sails .

However, regardless of the sophisticated upgrades one may consider down the line, understanding and mastering the fundamentals we’ve discussed is vital before venturing into more complex setups. Take time to observe how everything interacts as you adjust sail trim and experiment with different adjustments both at sea and dockside – knowledge always grows best through hands-on experience.

In conclusion, setting up a mainsheet rigging diagram properly is a skill that every serious sailor should possess. By investing in top-quality equipment, positioning blocks effectively, and mastering proven sheeting techniques, you’ll gain complete control over your mainsail’s positioning—a game-changer when it comes to developing superb sailing skills. So go ahead, grab that sketchpad, and embark on the journey of designing the perfect mainsheet rigging diagram for your beloved vessel!

Frequently Asked Questions about Mainsheet Rigging Diagrams Answered

If you’re a sailing enthusiast or a boat owner, chances are you’ve heard about mainsheet rigging diagrams. These diagrams play an important role in understanding and setting up the mainsheet system on your sailboat. In this blog post, we will answer some of the frequently asked questions about mainsheet rigging diagrams, providing you with a detailed and professional explanation.

Q: What is a mainsheet rigging diagram? A: A mainsheet rigging diagram is a visual representation of how the components of your boat’s mainsheet system are connected and configured. It demonstrates how the various lines, blocks, travelers, and other hardware come together to create an efficient and functional setup for controlling the mainsail.

Q: Why are mainsheet rigging diagrams important? A: Mainsheet rigging diagrams serve as invaluable references for both beginners and experienced sailors . They help ensure that all components of the mainsheet system are correctly installed and properly functioning, promoting safety while maximizing sailing performance. Additionally, these diagrams make it easier to troubleshoot any issues that may arise during sailing.

Q: How do I read a mainsheet rigging diagram? A: Reading a mainsheet rigging diagram involves understanding the various symbols, lines, and labels used to represent different elements of the rigging system. Typically found in manuals or manufacturer guides, these diagrams often feature labeled arrows indicating line direction or block rotation. Familiarizing yourself with common symbols such as circles for blocks or triangles for shackles will greatly aid your comprehension.

Q: Can I customize my boat’s main sheeting arrangement using these diagrams? A: Absolutely! Mainsheet rigging diagrams not only provide guidance on standard setups but also give you options for customization based on your specific requirements or preferences. Whether it’s adjusting block placements, choosing different types of hardware, or modifying line configurations – these diagrams offer a starting point for personalizing your mainsheet setup to enhance performance and comfort.

Q: Are there any general tips for rigging the main sheet correctly? A: While specifics may vary depending on your boat’s design and rigging system, there are a few general tips to keep in mind when rigging the mainsheet. Firstly, ensure that all lines run freely through blocks or travelers without unnecessary friction or interference. Secondly, choose appropriate line sizes and materials, considering factors like load capacity and ease of handling. Lastly, regularly inspect and maintain your fittings, lines, and hardware to prevent failures or accidents.

Q: Where can I find a mainsheet rigging diagram for my boat? A: You can typically find mainsheet rigging diagrams in your boat’s owner’s manual or manufacturer’s guide. These resources are often available online from the manufacturers’ websites as downloadable PDFs. If you’re unable to find a diagram specific to your boat model, numerous sailing forums and communities share knowledge and useful resources where fellow sailors post their own diagrams.

In conclusion, mainsheet rigging diagrams hold significant importance in the sailing world. These comprehensive visual representations assist boaters in setting up their mainsail systems correctly while allowing room for customization. Reading these diagrams is crucial for ensuring safety onboard and optimizing sailing performance. So take advantage of this essential resource to make the most out of your sailing adventures !

Exploring the Benefits of Using a Mainsheet Rigging Diagram in Sailing

Title: Unraveling the Advantages of Utilizing a Mainsheet Rigging Diagram in the Art of Sailing

Introduction: Sailing, an age-old practice that seamlessly combines art and science, continues to captivate enthusiasts and novices alike. The precision and elegance involved in navigating the waters harnesses various elements, one of which is the mainsheet rigging diagram. Regardless of your sailing expertise, understanding the benefits of employing a mainsheet rigging diagram can greatly enhance your experience on the open sea. In this blog post, we will delve into the intricate world of sailing, unraveling why utilizing a mainsheet rigging diagram is both indispensable and enlightening.

1. Setting Sail for Success: Navigating through intricate maneuvers and controlling sail trim requires meticulous attention to detail. By utilizing a mainsheet rigging diagram, sailors gain access to a comprehensive visual representation that outlines every element involved in adjusting the main sheet. This invaluable tool acts as a roadmap, guiding sailors towards achieving their desired sail settings with precision and accuracy.

2. Enhanced Maneuverability: A well-configured mainsheet rigging diagram equips sailors with enhanced maneuverability capabilities by illustrating various configurations under different wind conditions – from light breezes to strong gusts. Through carefully planned adjustments outlined in the diagram, sailors can respond swiftly to changing conditions and optimize performance while maneuvering effortlessly through tight turns or executing challenging maneuvers.

3. Simplified Coordination: Collaboration between crew members is crucial during sailing expeditions, especially when it comes to handling the mainsail efficiently. Thanks to a well-drawn mainsheet rigging diagram, team coordination becomes simplified as everyone is referencing the same guidebook for execution and communication purposes. The clear depiction of specific lines or attachments ensures seamless coordination between crew members, eliminating confusion and promoting efficiency when making necessary adjustments.

4. Improve Safety Measures: Sailing inherently involves exposure to potentially adverse weather conditions at times. By utilizing a mainsheet rigging diagram, sailors gain an added layer of safety as the diagram acts as a preemptive measure against accidental mishaps. The diagram clearly outlines how various elements interact, thus allowing sailors to identify and resolve potential issues before they escalate into potentially dangerous situations .

5. Empowering Learning Experience: For beginners or even seasoned sailors seeking to enhance their skills, a mainsheet rigging diagram serves as an invaluable educational tool. Examining and understanding the intricate details of sail trim adjustments and the associated variables helps broaden one’s understanding of the principles governing maneuvering on water. Absorbing this knowledge through interactive exploration of the diagram sharpens sailing intuition and enables informed decision-making while on the sea.

Conclusion: Embracing the benefits offered by a mainsheet rigging diagram in sailing is undoubtedly a wise choice for any seafarer aiming to elevate their performance, coordination, safety measures, and overall navigational prowess. This comprehensive visual representation uniquely combines artistry with ingenuity to simplify complex maneuvers effectively. Whether you are an experienced sailor or embark on your maiden voyage, it is crucial to recognize that employing this visual aid will enhance your experience on the open waters significantly – ensuring smooth sailing every step of the way!

Mastering the Art of Mainsheet Rigging: Essential Tips and Tricks

Rigging your mainsheet is an essential skill for any sailor , whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting out. The mainsheet is one of the most crucial control lines on your sailboat , responsible for trimming and shaping your sail’s angle to the wind. Getting it right can make all the difference in your sailing performance, and that’s why we’re here to share some invaluable tips and tricks to help you master mainsheet rigging like a true professional.

1. Understanding the Basics: First things first, let’s get familiar with the basics of mainsheet rigging. The mainsheet typically runs from a block on the boom through multiple blocks on deck before ending at a cleat or winch. This setup allows you to adjust tension and trim, affecting both boat speed and steering response.

2. Finding the Sweet Spot: The optimal position for your mainsheet block attachment points is essential for efficient sail control. Experiment with different positions until you find what feels comfortable and allows for easy adjustments while maintaining a proper angle between boom and cockpit.

3. Choosing the Right Materials: Investing in high-quality mainsheet lines can significantly enhance your sailing experience . Look for durable materials that offer low stretch, such as Dyneema or Spectra fibers, which provide superior strength without sacrificing flexibility.

4. Length Matters: It’s crucial to choose an appropriate length for your mainsheet line based on your boat’s dimensions and sailing conditions. Too short, and you won’t have enough leverage; too long, and handling becomes cumbersome. Find that sweet spot where ease of use meets efficiency.

5. Tidy Organization: Keep your mainsheet system tidy by using organizers or fairleads along your boat’s cabin top or cockpit coaming. These small guides redirect the sheet smoothly around corners or obstacles while reducing frictional losses, ensuring fluid adjustments even under heavy load.

6. Friction-Free Fittings: When setting up your mainsheet rigging, pay attention to areas where friction may occur. Consider using ball-bearing swivel blocks or low-friction rings to reduce resistance, allowing for smoother and more precise adjustments.

7. Controlling Boom Vang: The boom vang plays a crucial role in mainsail control, helping to maintain proper sail shape and control leech tension. Ensure your vang is properly rigged, adjusted, and easily accessible from the cockpit, allowing for quick modifications as wind conditions change.

8. Maintenance Matters: Just like any other equipment on your sailboat , regular maintenance is crucial for optimal performance. Inspect your mainsheet regularly for wear and tear, replace any worn-out components promptly, and keep everything clean and well-lubricated to ensure smooth operation.

9. Perfecting Your Technique: Practice makes perfect when it comes to mainsheet rigging! Experiment with different trimming techniques such as sheeting in incrementally or jumping from one trim point to another during acceleration. With time and experience, you’ll develop a nuanced understanding of how best to optimize sail shape given varying wind strengths and angles.

10. Safety Comes First: Lastly, always prioritize safety while rigging your mainsheet system . Avoid standing directly in front of the boom when releasing tension rapidly or handling heavy loads. Consider wearing gloves when working with lines under high pressure to avoid rope burns or injury.

Remember that mastering the art of mainsheet rigging takes time and practice; there’s no substitute for hands-on experience out on the water. By following these essential tips and tricks, however, you’ll be well on your way toward honing this critical skillset – all while enjoying the thrill and satisfaction of improved sailing performance.

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Mainsheet Rigging Diagrams

Title: Decoding the Enigma: Troubleshooting Common Issues with Mainsheet Rigging Diagrams

Introduction: When it comes to sailing, understanding and mastering the art of mainsheet rigging is imperative for smooth sailing. However, even the most experienced sailors can find themselves scratching their heads in confusion when faced with intricate rigging diagrams . Fear not, dear sailors, for today we shall dive into the depths of main sheet rigging diagrams and uncover common issues that plague many navigators. So grab your compass and join us on this thrilling adventure !

1. Demystifying Complexity: Mainsheet rigging diagrams may oftentimes resemble a complex tapestry woven by mischievous water sprites. However, fear not! The key to cracking this enigmatic code lies in approaching them with patience and logic. Break down the diagram into smaller sections, identify each component diligently, and let your curiosity be your guide.

2. Tangled Lines: A Gordian Knot Situation One of the most common woes encountered while deciphering mainsheet rigging diagrams is dealing with tangled lines. It’s as if Medusa herself decided to pay a visit to our sailboat! To combat this issue, mentally trace each line’s path throughout the diagram while referring to its corresponding written description. By tackling one line at a time, you’ll transform the figurative knots into a smoothly flowing sea breeze.

3. Lost in Translation: Bridging the Gap Sometimes, despite our efforts to comprehend every detail within a rigging diagram , there remains a lingering sense of confusion—an invisible language barrier between words and symbols. In such situations, turn to online resources or sailing communities where fellow adventurers may have tackled similar hurdles before you. Exploring different interpretations and perspectives can often provide valuable insights that bridge this communication gap.

4. Attention All Hands! Beware of Amplified Scale: Beware! The scale provided in mainsheet rigging diagrams isn’t always a true representation of reality. Properly understanding the scale is crucial in ensuring accurate rigging . Utilize measuring tools, such as rulers or calipers, to determine precise measurements and adjust them accordingly on your own personal diagram or setup. Vigilance in this regard will prevent unexpected surprises during the rigging process.

5. Know Your Knots: Ensuring a Secure Rig Just as an anchor secures a ship against the fury of the sea, knots are essential for maintaining rigging integrity. When deciphering mainsheet rigging diagrams, pay close attention to the types of knots employed throughout the system. Familiarizing yourself with these specific knots ensures efficient knot tying and enhances overall safety while cruising through waters both smooth and turbulent.

Conclusion: Navigating through mainsheet rigging diagrams can feel like unwrapping a mysterious treasure map leading us to adventure-filled destinations on land uncharted. While they may initially seem daunting, approaching these diagrams with patience and good humor allows us to overcome any obstacles that cross our path. So brave sailors, let curiosity be your compass and tenacity your guiding star—oh captain! Set sail confidently into the world of mainsheet rigging diagrams and conquer any challenges that await!

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Backstay adjusters allow racers and cruisers to adjust and control mast rake and headstay tension. Adjusting the backstay shapes the main to optimize upwind and downwind performance. On racer/cruisers, tightening the backstay increases headstay tension for upwind sailing, while loosening the backstay offwind reduces weather helm. When selecting blocks or systems for backstays, make certain blocks match or exceed the wire or line breaking strength. Typical Boat Length: Small Boat: 22' - 28' (6.7 - 8.5 m) Midrange: 29' - 34' (8.8 - 10.4 m) Big Boat: 35' - 42' (10.7 - 12.8 m)

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The vang allows vertical adjustment of the boom, and is an extremely important tool to shape the main for speed. Tension the vang to tighten the leech, flatten the sail and bend the mast. Cruisers use the vang to keep the boom from rising when sailing downwind and abraiding the main.

Typical boat length: Small Boat: 22' - 28' (6.7 - 8.5 m) Midrange: 29' - 34' (8.8 - 10.4 m) Big Boat: 35' - 42' (10.7 - 12.8 m)

Cunningham Systems

The cunningham controls the fore and aft position of draft in the mainsail or genoa and works together with the traveler, mainsheet, outhaul and vang to optimize sail shape and increase boatspeed. Cunningham controls lead to the crew to encourage adjustment as wind speed changes.

Typical Boat Length: Small Boat: 22' - 28' (6.7 - 8.5 m) Midrange: 29' - 34' (8.8 - 10.4 m) Big Boat: 35' - 42' (10.7 - 12.8 m)

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Genoa lead cars allow sailors to change the sheeting angle of the genoa so the sail has a more efficient shape. Not only for racers, people with furling genoas need adjustable leads when genoas are partially furled. Cars are available in both T-track and ball bearing configurations.

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Mainsail reefing systems must operate effciently to reduce sail under adverse conditions and provide proper sail shape when reefed. These systems are a must for both racers and cruisers.

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These dual purpose systems offer sailors the option of either speed or power. They are used for mainsheets on small to medium-sized offshore boats where power is required for effective heavy-air trimming upwind, but speed is crucial for off-wind trimming and mark roundings.

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Mainsheets are simple hardware systems, but are among the most important as they are in almost constant use.

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Mastbase and cabintop blocks allow crew to raise, lower and trim sails from the cockpit. A variety of specialized blocks have evolved for routing lines aft.

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The outhaul controls and shapes the mainsail. Ease the outhaul to increase draft and power up the sail. Tighten the outhaul to flatten the sail and reduce drag and heel in heavy air.

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Self-tacking jibs and staysails are popular on boats of all sizes because tacking is nearly automatic, with no need to haul in or release a sheet. They work well with furling systems and with jib booms. Calculate loadings for traveler cars and blocks using the following Genoa System Loading Calculator.

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Both racers and cruisers benefit from adjustable spinnaker pole cars. Racers use adjustable cars to square the spinnaker pole’s inboard end to the horizon and help with dip pole jibing. Cruisers use the car to level the whisker pole when sailing downwind wing-and-wing and to store the pole against the mast when not in use.

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Traveler controls must be powerful enough to move the car easily under load and lead to a position where crew can conveniently operate them. Smaller boats usually position controls so the helmsman can make adjustments. Larger boats position controls for the mainsheet trimmer.

Standard Boat Length: * Small Boat: 22' - 28' (6.7 - 8.5 m) Midrange: 29' - 34' (8.8 - 10.4 m) Big Boat: 35' - 42' (10.7 - 12.8 m)

*Refer to  Ordering Travelers Chart for in-depth specifications by boat type.

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A well-designed system makes all the difference when setting, flying and jibing the spinnaker. Trimming involves three adjustments: raising or lowering the pole, moving the outboard end of the pole forward or aft, and pulling in or easing the sheet.

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