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How to Remove Scratches, Scuffs, and Dents on Your Boat

• 1 Types of Damage
• 2 Scratches
• 5 Clean and Prepare the Area
• 6 Gather supplies
• 7 Clean the scratched area
• 8 Removing Scratches
• 9 Use a buffer
• 10 Apply rubbing compound
• 11 Buff with a dry cloth
• 12 Removing Scuffs
• 13 Sand the area down
• 14 Clean the area with a cloth
• 15 Apply a coat of marine varnish
• 16 Removing Dents
• 17 Fill the dent with Bondo or a fiberglass patch
• 18 Sand down the area
• 19 Apply a coat of paint
• 20 Conclusion

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Whether you’re an avid boater or just an occasional one, you know the importance of keeping your boat in tip-top shape. Unfortunately, scratches, scuffs, and dents can occur over time, and if you don’t address them, they can cause more damage to your boat’s hull. In this post, we’ll show you how to remove scratches, scuffs, and dents on your boat and keep it looking as good as new.

We’ll also share some of the best methods and products for removing scratches and scuffs and ways to prevent them in the future. So, if you want to learn how to keep your boat looking like it did on day one, read on.

Types of Damage

Scratches are shallow indentations that occur when an object rubs across a surface. They can usually be seen with the naked eye and are usually a few millimeters deep.

Scuffs are similar to scratches but usually a bit deeper and occur when more force is applied to the surface. Depending on the force used, they can range from light discoloration to deep indentations.

Dents are indentations that occur when an object or surface is hit with considerable force. They can range from very shallow to deep depressions, depending on the amount of force applied.

Clean and Prepare the Area

Gather supplies.

Before attempting any repairs, ensure you have all the necessary supplies on hand, such as sandpaper, fiberglass patches, rubbing compound, bondo, marine varnish, safety equipment (e.g., gloves), etc.

Clean the scratched area

Before attempting any repairs, ensure the area is clean and free of debris or dirt that could interfere with the repair process. Use mild soap and a soft brush to clean the area thoroughly before beginning repairs.

Removing Scratches

Use a buffer.

Using a buffer is one of the easiest ways to remove scratches from your boat’s surface. Start by attaching a buffing pad to your buffer and setting it to low speed. Apply gentle pressure to the scratched area as you move the buffer across it in circular motions until you have buffed away all the scratch marks.

Apply rubbing compound

If buffing does not remove all the scratch marks, apply rubbing compound directly onto the scratched area using a cloth or sponge. Rub in circles to spread an even layer of compound over the scratched surface, then let it sit for 10-15 minutes before buffing away with your buffer at low speed once again.

Buff with a dry cloth

For stubborn scratches that remain after buffing with a buffer and rubbing compound, use a dry cloth to buff away any remaining marks until they disappear completely. Ensure not to press too hard while buffing and not to damage other parts of your boat’s surface!

Removing Scuffs

Sand the area down.

To remove scuffs from your boat’s hull, sand down the affected area using sandpaper until all scuff marks are removed (or significantly reduced). It is important to use medium-grade sandpaper to not accidentally damage other parts of your boat’s surface in the process! Continue sanding until all scuff marks are gone.

Clean the area with a cloth

After sanding down the area, use a clean cloth to wipe away any debris or dust left behind by the sanding process.

Apply a coat of marine varnish

To protect your boat after removing scuff marks, apply a coat of marine varnish overtop of your newly cleaned surface using a brush or roller applicator (make sure you use one specifically designed for marine varnish). Allow this coat of varnish to fully dry.

Removing Dents

Fill the dent with bondo or a fiberglass patch.

Try using Bondo or fiberglass patches to remove dents from your boat’s hull or deeper scratches. For Bondo, start by filling in gaps or cracks in the hull using the two-part epoxy putty.  Spread an even layer overtop of and around any remaining dent, then allow it time to fully dry. For fiberglass patches , follow the directions on the package since most will come with a full set to restore scratches and dents. You may need multiple patches depending on how deep the dent or scratch is.

Sand down the area

Once the Bondo has fully dried and hardened, use medium-grade sandpaper to sand down any rough edges surrounding any remaining dent to smooth them out (if necessary). Be cautious during this step to avoid damaging other parts of your boat’s hull!

Apply a coat of paint

Finally, apply another coat of paint over the entire dent area. Make sure you choose paint specifically designed for marine use so that it won’t chip or crack easily.

Removing scratches, scuffs, and dents in your boat is difficult, but it can be done with the right tools and techniques. This post has given you the information you need to restore your boat to its former glory. Always wear protective gear when working, use the right tools, and use only mild soap and marine-grade products to clean and protect your boat. With a bit of dedication and hard work, you’ll soon be back out on the open water in no time!

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New to sailboats - scraped keel/ cracks/ exposed wood treatment?

• Thread starter colocass
• Start date Aug 24, 2023
• Forums for All Owners
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Relax! It's not that delicate. Wood is a very durable material that is pretty easily repaired. The stories you hear about rot are primarily from neglected boats. Based on the photos I would not say your boat is neglected. It needs some maintenance. I don't have time to answer all your questions this morning but I'll hit a few high points. Regarding the skeg, it is meant to be in some sense sacrificial. In you case it looks fine. There nothing wrong with making a metal shoe for it but I wouldn't bother. Instead I would coat the bottom with epoxy mixed with graphite particles (Available fro West epoxy). That will render a tough finish which can be dragged up a beach and provides some antifouling too. It will not do well in direct Sunlight but a layer of cheap bottom paint will take care of that. For D, I think those can be repaired but the rails should come off to prepare the surfaces for epoxy, which also needs to be protected from Sunlight with Varnish. I'm sure others will chime in re all parts but rest assured that wood is a durable material.  

garymalmgren

6. Does the hull actually have to be painted or it is possible to use a transparent sealer of some sort? It is fine to continue to use varnish on the wood that is currently varnished. I entirely agree it would be a shame to hide that nice wood. It should be a marine aka Spar varnish not just any wood sealer. Good quality varnish is much nicer to work with and lasts longer. Polyurethane is faster drying, but does not yield long lasting results. Have a look at TotalBoat.com, they have all the stuff needed for wooden boats. If you have to go cheap, try the Rustoleum spar varnish, stay away from minwax. If you want to expose the currently painted portions, that is a lot of work to strip the old paint. Maybe save that project for a while until the other work is done. That said, sure you can strip and varnish the hull, typically only the topsides (above the waterline) are varnished.  

While it's good to keep fresh water out of the boat, getting the wood too dry is also a problem. The wood shrinks as it drys and if it is fastened it can develop cracks or checks. A Wooden Boat columnist has written extensively about the best way to store wood and wooden boats with regard to humidity. I believe his Rx was a dirt floor over concrete. It is reasonable to move the boat in for working on it and back outside for periods of storage. I don't think a super low humidity, as may exist in an upper Mid-West garage, would be good. That dryness may be responsible for the cracks in the planks. If those cracks go through the plank you will need to repair them maybe even using fiberglass cloth. If the cracks are superficial I would use a marine putty to close them and paint over. That's more like fairing than a repair. In any event they are above the waterline and not dangerous. Store the boat covered or upside down when not in use. I have yet to use a cover that didn't let water into the boat - sometimes aided by the local raccoon population. Up side down was my preference. Otherwise I agree with the sail the hell out of it mantra.  

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How to Fix Scratches on the Yacht’s Painted Surfaces

Still pushing water, having enjoyed and excelled aboard square riggers, Whitbread Maxis, the world cup circuit when there were only 7 boats, America’s Cuppers, 12M, modern classics, real classics, salvage, racing, passage, refits, builds and more, for 38 years, 54 Atlantic crossings, 48 world championships, and a few stories more. I enjoy the serenity and clarity that a life between the blues offers, washed by wind and waves, where all that remains is the simple truth of all things, questions for all things technical, and acceptance of all things magic. 

Capt. Mx gives the lowdown on how to fix up unsightly scratches in the paintwork...

You spend much of your time caressing your topsides and keeping them pretty, but all it takes is one cocktail party or beach day for those inevitable scratches. It takes finesse to make your painted surfaces shine again.

Damage can happen so easily, whether it’s from dirty feet after the beach or something more. These scratches are often light and can be readily polished out. Typical polishes are equivalent of 1200 to 1600 grit sanding, although in a paste that spreads easily and reduces friction as you work.

However, if the scratch is a bit deeper, it may be a good idea to begin with a paste compound rather than a polish or wax. Address the scratch first and beautify after. I suggest 3M Finesse-it Marine Paste Compound: a gallon container is always good on the boat as it quickly addresses any slight scratches, such as those made with sandy feet, and it works well on the most heavily oxidized surfaces.

You can achieve good results with effort, clean and dry cotton rags, or perhaps even a machine (although you would have to consider the speed and material used). To keep it simple, a polishing wheel on a drill may be best, as you can control the speed and the area affected, so get a polishing kit before you go.

• Tips For Maintaining Varnish

Once you can no longer see nor feel the scratch, use a polishing wax or finishing glaze; there are many, including the 3M range, that I like very much. This will help revive the shine and may be used on small surfaces up to an entire cabin top, as needed.

Sometimes, the scratch is deeper than what can be repaired by paste and polish. You’ll likely see the clear-cut line where it has passed through the paint layers and has gouged the base material, filler, carbon, aluminum, or other. In this case, get your painter’s cap on and pull out the necessary materials, including blue tape, clean, dry cotton rags, acetone, fine-brush kit, and the primer, paint, and catalyzers required. You’ll also need sandpaper and the grit determined by the gouge or scratch (but certainly up to 800 or 1000) before you finish. Always wear a mask (even with a slight breeze, and certainly if under cover) — these materials are toxic and may turn your toes green.

Tape off the area, clean it completely with acetone and a clean cloth, and begin sanding with one finger and the necessary sandpaper, anything from 80 or more. But remember, everything you sand off, you have to put back on. Once the area has been prepared and has no sharp edges, wipe again with acetone and cloth, let dry, and prepare to apply the correct primer with the brush determined by the extent of the damaged area. These are moments where finesse makes all the difference.

Read all instructions for every product and allow time to dry. Accomplish all actions within the working time allowed — dependent on temperature and ventilation — and once complete, you should have the damaged area prepared, primed, and painted.

You now only have to sand diligently to restore the smooth surface and apply the paste and polish to revitalize the shine that will become the hallmark of your work on deck.

This column is taken from the February 2021 issue of Dockwalk.

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All the the plans offered on The Model Shipwright  and The Model Shipwright blog are available on this site in high-resolution files. The images on the blog posting are linked directly to the page here with the downloadable files, or you can search from this page by ship type, ship name, or the historical period in which it was built. We put a lot of work in tracking down these plans, and in some cases digitized them ourselves and put in time cleaning up and repairing the images to make them more useful. Feel free to use them for your modeling projects, but please don’t just take them to repost on your site. We have digitally watermarked them to identify them as coming from this site.

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15 comments

How detailed are your plans? Can you email me one page showing it?

You can download the plans directly from the website. Go to the page of plans you want, and left-click on the plan image to open the image file. Then right-click on the image and choose “save image as” to download it to your computer. The plans can be opened with any image-editing or preview software. Save it to a removable drive and you can take the drive to a local copy shop to be printed on their large-format printer.

Do you accept donated paper plans? I may thin out my collection.

Send us a message on our contact page, we’re always looking for submissions!

WAGB -10 or WAGB-11 Looking for plans. Can anyone help? Thx

I have a set of some 200+ plans for WAGB-10, what are you looking for?

Ton I am looking for pg 1 and pg 2 of the plans for the baltimore 2 1:64 scale

I am looking for drawings of below main deck layouts of 1700-1800 “Man of War” ships. Do you have any?

Check out our page on the French Man of War Montebello It has several views of the below decks.

does anyone know where I could get plans for a VLCC oil tanker /?

I have some GA plans for some tankers, what are you looking for?

I am looking for the typical or average hull ratios: beam/lenght, beam/keel, beam/depth, beam/draught, tonnage, displacement, and burthen of the various types of Ships during the age of sail. Any recomendations?

One of the best experts on the subject was Howard Chapelle. He probably answers the question in one of his many books on sailing ships. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howard_I._Chapelle

[…] Ship Plans […]

Anyone know of a source for plans for the Steamer Eastland, that capsized in the Chicago River in 1915?

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The 5 Best Sailboats For Beginners

Sailing is a fun activity for people of all experience levels. In fact, learning to sail a basic boat is relatively easy—in the right environment, you can start cruising with minimal experience.

However, the idea of a beginner commanding a 55-foot ketch in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean is a bit ridiculous. Even though virtually everyone can sail, beginners should learn the basics in a controlled environment—and on the correct boat.

Boat size doesn’t necessarily affect its beginner-friendliness, because sailors need to take into account factors such as rig simplicity and handling characteristics. 

Many beginners make the mistake of picking the wrong boat to begin with, which can lead to frustration and turn them off of sailing forever.

To mitigate these issues, this article will cover the best sailboats for beginners —so you can get on the water and start sailing safely and comfortably.

Table of contents

‍ Best Rigs for Beginners 

There are many types of sailboat rigging , and some are more beginner-friendly than others. Unfortunately, some of the most aesthetically pleasing rigs are also the most complicated. 

Eventually, sailors can acquire enough skill to master complex rigs, but it’s best to start simple. 

Arguably, one of the simplest sailing rigs is the Lateen Rig. This rig consists of a mast, boom, and spar, along with a single halyard and mainsheet. With only two ropes in its simplest configuration, the Lateen Rig makes an excellent starter sailboat, and it will be featured on this list. 

For larger boats, the Bermuda Sloop rig is an excellent choice. This rig is quite common and includes a jib for a larger sail plan.

For those who desire a slightly more robust (but single sail) layout, the gaff-rigged catboat is also an excellent choice. This versatile craft (and rig) has a large and relatively simple single sail, which is easier to handle than multiple sails.

Top Five Sailboats for Beginners 

Now, we’ll go over the top five sailboats for beginners . These boats will descend in order from smallest to largest, but not by the level of experience needed.  

Remember, just because you’re new to sailing doesn’t mean you have to settle for a boat that’s too small. Beginners can handle larger boats with some training, and some are easier to handle than their smaller counterparts.  ‍

The following boats were chosen because of their handling characteristics, low cost-of-ownership, and simplicity, as all of these factors are important for choosing the best beginner sailboat.

5) Sailing Dinghy

The sailing dinghy is the quintessential starter sailboat. These tiny, lightweight, popular, and highly affordable little craft is easy to operate and relatively difficult to capsize. The popular Optimist Sailing Dinghy, while designed for children up to the age of about 15, can be used (sometimes hilariously) by adults as well. An Optimist-style dingy is a great option for beginners over the age of 15, as boats of this style can be found in a variety of sizes. The sailing dinghy is a very popular youth racing sailboat, especially in the United States and the United Kingdom. While it’s not particularly fast, this little boat has wonderful handling characteristics and is relatively difficult to capsize. This open-cockpit boat uses a centerboard and detachable tiller and can be beached or carried atop a car without much hassle. The mast is removable, and all parts are easily stowed. Overall, the Optimist and its copycats are a remarkable little craft, equally useful as a tender for a larger boat or a standalone beginner sailboat.

Dinghy rigs vary between builders, but many use the simple Spirit Rig. The rig consists of a single sail and mainsheet, along with one mast, boom, and spar. The leech is stiffened by battens, and ties along the luff secure it all to the mast. Hoisting and securing the rig is easy, and lines are secured to the boat by a cleat. This simple rig has plenty of sail area for most places, and sailors can secure the mainsheet to a block or simply hold it in their hands.

The price of sailing dinghies can vary widely depending on multiple factors. Professionally-made sailing dinghies start around $3,500 new, and plywood kits are available for around $1,000 to $2,000. Used dinghies (including Optimist sailing dinghies) can be found on Craigslist for as low as a few hundred dollars. 

{{boat-info="/boats/vanguard-sunfish"}}

The Sunfish is a brilliant little sailboat, and a very fast boat indeed. This little racing dinghy, while only 13 feet in length, can be an enormous amount of fun for beginners and experienced sailors alike. The best way to describe the handling of a Sunfish is, ‘tender,’ though it’s not difficult to master this little boat. For its size, the Sunfish has a relatively large sail area and a very shallow draft. This boat has a small cockpit and can be controlled easily by a single person. The large sail plan of the Lateen-Rigged Sunfish makes for excellent performance in light winds and amazing speed on windy days. The Sunfish is a lightweight fiberglass boat with a simple rig and is a great step-up from a sailing dinghy. It’s possible to learn how to sail on this boat, but every sailor who’s spent time on a Sunfish will probably recommend bringing a towel. The boat is relatively easy to capsize for beginners and it heels aggressively, but these characteristics can teach sailors some important lessons. The heeling characteristics of the Sunfish can help beginners get accustomed to the feeling and help them understand the limits of a sailboat and how to avoid capsizing.

The Sunfish features a Lateen Rig, which has some shared characteristics with the simple Spirit Rig. The Lateen Rig has a single spar, mast, and boom, and is easy to set up and dismantle. The mast is removable as well, making stowing and transportation relatively easy. The large sail plan of the Sunfish makes it ideal for lakes and other areas where the wind is sporadic or very low, and the boat can be safely handled in many conditions. The boat is great for racing and learning and is also available in a Bermuda rig. The Sunfish is recognizable by the distinctive fish logo in the top corner of the sail, and the classic rainbow sails striping.

The Sunfish is still commercially manufactured. You can purchase one new from the factory for around $5,000 today, and options are available to make the boat your own. While the boat is designed to be sailed by a single person, two adults can purchase this boat and use it together comfortably. Used Sunfish prices vary, but a fully-outfitted boat in good condition can cost upwards of $1,000. They hold their value well, and they’re a great choice for beginners. 

{{boat-info="/boats/vanguard-laser"}}

The Laser is considered by many to be the Sunfish’s main competitor. The two boats are the same length (13 feet 9 inches) and share many of the same handling characteristics. However, the boats do have some notable differences. Many people consider the Laser to be a step-up from the Sunfish in difficulty, as the boat handles much more like a racer. The Laser has been used in the Olympics for racing. The laser is small and simple enough for beginners but requires skill to operate. Beginners can learn a lot from sailing a Laser and have an enormous amount of fun in the process. This fast little boat is simple and easy to set up but handles like a racecar.  If you’re a beginner on a laser, you’ll probably capsize at some point—which isn’t always a problem if you’re in a controlled environment, as the boat can be righted easily.

The laser is a Cat Rigged boat. This means it has only one mainsail and no headsails. The simple rig has a mast and a boom and is very easy to set up. The sail area of the laser is relatively large and designed for speed in high winds. The rig combined with the overall design of the sailboat makes it handle tenderly, which may be off-putting to some beginners. Regardless, it’s still a blast to sail for beginners with some experience.

New Laser sailboats start around $6,000 which is slightly more than the Sunfish. This simple centerboard cruiser is constructed as a race boat, which can explain some of the price increase. Used Laser sailboats are available on the market, though usually not as common as the Sunfish. Used Laser prices vary widely.

2) Gaff-Rigged Catboat

The gaff-rigged catboat isn’t a brand of boat—it’s a style of a sailboat that was once a popular workboat on the New England coast. This boat, which has only one mainsail and no headsails, is available in a wide range of designs. Catboats are famous for their handling and power and make a great sailboat for beginners. These vessels are available with centerboards, keels, cabins, and in open designs. Most catboats range from 15 to 19-feet long and can be built from wood or fiberglass. Catboats are easy to handle, and one who learns on a small catboat can easily transition to a larger one. Besides being one of the most easily recognizable sailboats, catboats are also some of the most versatile. A catboat can be just as suitable for lake cruising as it is for coastal waters.

The most common type of catboat rig is the Gaff Rig. This classic and robust rig is more complex than the simple Spirit and Lateen rig, but it’s more suitable for a ‘proper ship.’ The Gaff Rig can provide similar power as an equivalent Bermuda Rig, with much more elegance and a shorter mast. Many sailors prefer the classic Gaff Rig for its handling characteristics and durability.

It’s impossible to specify the price of catboats because they vary so much in design and size. New catboats (between 15 and 25-feet) can be purchased for less than $20,000, and used boats are numerous and varied. Cabin catboats tend to cost more, especially new—some run for more than $50,000 with a high level of amenities, including a head and galley. Numerous catboat plans are available online, and sailors report constructing them (usually of plywood) for just a few thousand dollars.

1) West Wight Potter 19

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The West Wight Potter 19 is a fiberglass sailboat designed for safety, easy handling, and beginner-friendliness. This 19-foot trailer-sailor features a cabin with a vee-berth, a simple rig, and a retractable keel. The West Wight Potter 19 could potentially be the best cabin sailboat for beginners, and certainly one of the safest—the West Wight Potter 19, according to the manufacturer, is quite literally unsinkable. The hull is filled with buoyant materials, allowing the boat to be flooded and remain afloat. However, unsinkability isn’t the only characteristic of this boat that makes it ideal for beginners. The rig is simple and easy to set up, and the handling characteristics are excellent. The boat is not prone to aggressive heeling and handles confidently in a variety of conditions. While one generally wouldn’t consider it to be a blue-water cruiser, it’s still extremely capable—one sailor even sailed this vessel from California to Hawaii , which is over 2,000 nautical miles. The theoretical hull speed of this boat is around 5.4 knots, but it actually has a tendency to plane and achieve higher speeds. It’s a flat-bottomed cruiser, making it easy to beach and transport with its retractable keel and removable rudder. The West Wight Potter 19 is a great introduction to large sailboats and carries amenities normally reserved for boats at least 1/3 larger.

The West Wight Potter 19 is a Bermuda-Rigged sloop. The sail plan is sufficiently large to propel the boat in a variety of conditions, but not so large that it overpowers the boat. Sailors can single-hand the boat with ease, and set up and takedown are easy and require no special tools. The boat handles well in a variety of conditions and is well-known for its superior stability. The rig comes apart easily and can be stowed and trailered by one person.

The West Wight Potter 19 has been produced and sold commercially since the 1970s, and the used market has plenty of boats available, generally starting around $5,000. New West Wight Potter 19 sailboats are remarkably affordable compared to other boats with comparable characteristics. The West Wight Potter 19 is manufactured by International Marine in California. New sailboats start at just shy of $25,000. Owners can add an enormous range of extra features to their boats, including a hull-strengthening ‘blue water’ package, a stove, a head, electrical power, spare parts, and much more. The boats are highly customizable and can be outfitted for weekender sailing or long-term liveaboard cruising.

How to Pick a Sailboat

Picking a sailboat for beginners doesn’t have to be difficult.  Before deciding on a boat, consider your experience level and location.

If you only have access to rough ocean, it may not be the best idea to get an open dinghy.

If you live near a lake, a Sunfish could be a great way to start.

Also, consider your budget. If you’re looking for a $50 sailboat, you can probably find one, but it won’t be ideal.

If you have just a few thousand dollars to spend, you can set yourself up nicely with a little research .

Also, consider what you want to do with the sailboat. Recreation, fishing , cruising , and exploration are options, and require different kinds of boats.

Whichever you end up choosing, make sure you try it out and can sail it comfortably.

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