sailboat water intake

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The Care And Feeding Of Your Boat's Water Systems

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Boating is all about water, inside and outside your boat. Let's take a close look at important maintenance tasks to stay on top of all your water systems.

Illustration: Dick Everitt

• Anchor/foredeck washdown with pressure pump and foot switch
• Galley sink. Filter for cleaner cold water. Sink drains above waterline at max heel. All thru-hulls must comply with ABYC standards
• Condensation drip tray drains overboard above waterline at max heel per ABYC standards
• Icemaker door open when not used
• Bilge pump drain well above water line on max heel. Smooth inner lining to hose. Vented loop may be needed if drain is near or below water line at max heel
• Head sink with filter on cold water and drain above waterline at max heel
• Shower sump pumped overboard to discharge above water line at max heel. Shower drain hose goes to shower evacuation pump. Head intake hose has a strainer and thru-hull
• All thru-hulls equipped with seacocks. Note double hose clamps
• Holding tank vented with minimum bends for better airflow
• Head discharges to MSD Type 1 with Y-valve
• Holding tank has pumpout hose and gravity discharge overboard after treatment where it's legal
• Water heater has anti-backflow valve to prevent expanding hot water from entering cold water system (This tank is shown lying on its side, an installation seen on some boats. Normally, hot-water tanks are upright.)
• Anti-siphon loops and valves where appropriate
• Potable water tank with fill and vent
• Potable water tank has sediment filter prior to pressure pump
• Accumulation tank diminishes pulsation
• Scuppers drain cockpit. Some boats need scuppers with hose to discharge

Seawater Washing (1) — Seawater systems such as anchor washdown and dishwashing with a seawater foot pump (if you're in clean water and rinse well with potable water) can conserve water. Frequently bathing in saltwater causes skin problems in many people; a freshwater rinse helps. Washdown water pump should be a short distance from the thru-hull but above the waterline.

Drinking Water Purity (2, 6) — When in question, can be improved by adding a small amount of bleach. Some authorities recommend adding approximately 1 teaspoon of household bleach with no perfumes, dyes, or other additives per 10 gallons of water. If possible, agitate the water after adding bleach and then let it sit for an hour. Chlorine odor will dissipate after a day. Bleach may initially make the water to which it's added unclear because it's killed the “bugs.” The water clears as these settle to the bottom. Ultimately they should be flushed out. It's preferable and safer to add product manufactured for the purpose; camping stores are good sources. If you have questionable water purity and no way to remedy it, boil water before drinking. Drinking-water filters such as GE's FXUVC under-the-sink cartridge remove many impurities and greatly improve taste. A water system UV light, such as those used in some reverse-osmosis systems, can kill viruses.

Air Conditioning & Refrigeration (3) — Condensation drain trays should occasionally be inspected to clear any blockage in drain hoses, which should preferably drain overboard rather than into the bilge. If trays don't drain fully, they'll develop a musty odor that will be circulated by the air handler.

Icemakers (4) — Should be left open and off when not being used for a few days or longer to avoid odor and mold. Often the incoming water line is behind the unit in an area warmed by the unit. This facilitates stagnation and odor, particularly in the filter that may be in that area. When in use, the ice bin should be dumped at least every few days to keep water flowing. Good ventilation helps.

Bilge Water (5) — Oil-absorbent pads in bilges under the engine and whenever there's oil-spill potential are critical. They must not interfere with the operation of a bilge-pump float switch. Always clean loose fuel and oils out of the bilge with an oil-absorbent pad, and discard appropriately. Proper bilge-pump installation is critical and will vary with different boats. The hose interior should be smooth, the water column in the hose should be no more than needed, and great care must be taken to avoid backflooding from the sea. Visual and audible alarms at the helm are crucial.

Bilge pump hose should exit well above water line at maximum heel within the parameters of ABYC standards. Pumps should be in sections where water can pool more than minimally.

A basic bilge pump schematic.

Sumps (7) — Those used for showers should be cleaned and flushed through regularly, even if the shower isn't often used. Shower sumps should discharge well above the water line at maximum heel within the parameters of ABYC standards.

Thru-Hulls (8) — Should be checked for obstruction every time you haul the boat and/or dive the bottom. Inspect them with a strong light, such as Streamlight's Stylus Pro 360 , while hauled. While in the water, you may need to carefully (to avoid damaging hose and valve) work an old table knife or similar tool around inside the hole to clear it of barnacles and other obstructions. A carrot peeler makes a good tool for small holes. If the hole is covered by an external filter, this should be removed, when hauled, for painting inside, inspection, and cleaning.

Water Passages (8, 6) from thru-hull openings — Sinks, heads, engines, air conditioners, refrigeration, bilge pumps, and other components use thru-hull openings and hoses. Regularly inspect and operate all thru-hull valves . Some valves periodically require disassembly and lubrication or cleaning while the boat is hauled. You may need to close one quickly when a breach occurs in a water passage inside the boat.

Regularly inspect all hoses and connections . Old or suspect hoses will deteriorate over time and should be replaced. Eventually, wire inserts will rust and harm inner and/or outer hose walls. Preferred hose clamps are AWAB brand or similar. Double the clamps (unless doing so would cut into the hose, in which event a longer hose barb is indicated) and regularly inspect.

All components should be 316 grade stainless or better. Cheap hose clamps tend to rust and break. Use hose appropriate for the job, such as marine-sanitation hoses for heads. ABYC standards should be followed in these and all other aspects.

Holding Tank (9, 10, 11) — Some chemicals added to holding tanks can harm the environment if spilled, either from the boat or from pumpout-disposal systems and system failures. Various companies market what they claim to be environmentally friendly holding-tank additives with varying degrees of effectiveness. Some boaters install a Raritan ElectroScan MSD plumbed to treat and discharge overboard where it's legal, and treat and discharge into the holding tank at other times.

Head Water (10) — Regular addition of products such as Star brite Instant Fresh Toilet Treatment and Raritan CP help keep head water odorless and improve operation of the head . Petroleum-based products can harm valves, seals, and gaskets. Check manufacturer's recommendations. Regularly pouring white vinegar into the head and flushing will help diminish calcium buildup on inside walls of head plumbing. Raritan's CH is stated to be environmentally harmless and is specially formulated to remove heavy calcium buildup as well as prevent buildup if used regularly.

Head discharge hoses should be specified for MSD use. Other types of hoses are usually more likely to develop calcium buildup, deposits, blockages, and odor permeation. Plumbing the head to flush with fresh water can reduce odor. The head intake hose is positioned as it is in the illustration for clarity, but should be far enough from the head discharge to avoid sucking up waste.

Water Heater (12) — Should be standing upright with a backflow valve between the incoming cold water and the heater. Requires periodic flushing by squirting in clean dock water with a water hose under moderate pressure through a discharge port at top, squirting around inside as much as practical, and draining through open intake port at bottom. Some water heaters have an anode for cathodic protection that should be checked yearly.

Anti-Siphon Loops and Valves (13) — Are needed in some hoses that exit underwater to prevent water from siphoning into the boat. Whether anti-siphon valves and loops are used depends in part on the location of relevant components in the boat and whether they're below the waterline or could end up below the waterline. These components may include heads, sinks, and engines and their raw-water intake and exhaust systems. As a precaution, when you're away from your boat, close the underwater seacocks.

Potable Water Tank (14, 15, 16) — Should be treated periodically with a product such as Star brite AQUA Water Treatment & Freshener to remove odors, scale, and bad taste. Also, thoroughly flush tank with clean water and pressure nozzle. Drain from bottom if possible; if not, pump it out. Follow manufacturer directions when applying anything to drinking water.

Follow instructions and warnings for cleaning additives, particularly with aluminum tanks. New tanks, especially fiberglass or plastic, may smell of the material of which they're made. Often, adding baking soda to the water will help, as well as with other odors later. The amount depends on the severity of the problem and volume of the tank.

Clarity of water may vary with source, such as from wells, cisterns, public water works, and reverse osmosis. The latter source, if coupled with a UV light and maintained well, probably produces the best water.

Drains and Scuppers (17) — Cockpits, side decks, and other areas of a boat normally have drains to rid the boat of rain and boarding seas. Test these regularly with a hose to be sure they're draining adequately. Leaves, plant material, dirt, and other debris can quickly obstruct them. Boats can sink if drains aren't kept clear. Clear them with a high-pressure hose nozzle or plunger.

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There are a number of different strainers used to help cool your boat's engine and filter out contaminants that are scooped up into your cooling / purifying systems. The main types of strainers are intake and scoop strainers, which help to absorb water into your cooling system as your boat moves, and filtering strainers, like raw water and inline strainers, which help to make sure seaweed, sand and other particles don't jam up your cooling system. From marine plumbing leaders like Groco, Buck-Algonquin, and ITT Jabsco.

Raw Water Strainers

Raw-water strainers are most often associated with the cooling systems of inboard engines. Every boat that brings aboard outside water to cool the engine, whether the raw water flows through the engine or through a heat exchanger, needs a strainer to prevent grass and other solids from reaching the pump.

Bronze Intake Strainers

High Speed Intake Strainer admits full water at all speeds. Burnished cast Bronze 2-piece unit with nut included.

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Boat Strainers and Scoop Strainers

Keep your boat's plumbing lines clear by installing strainers and screens from Great Lakes Skipper. We bring you closeout savings on thousands of new and replacement marine parts and accessories like filter pump strainers, bronze scoop strainers, inline strainers, boat water intakes, and more strainers, filters, and screens for boat plumbing. Great Lakes Skipper has boat scoop strainers, boat water strainers, strainer screens, and more from brands like Flojet, Perko, Flow-Rite, Jabsco, Shurflo, TH Marine. Shop our site and save big!

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How to unclog a raw water intake

• Thread starter Firefly
• Start date Jun 13, 2007

• Jun 13, 2007

Hello, My raw water intake is clogged on one of my engines. The clog is between the outside of the boat and the raw water strainer. I'm having a diver go down this week to clean the bottom of the boat and to make sure all the sea intakes are not blocked. However, if there is still a blockage in the hose, I'll have to get that out. A guy at the marina told me to connect a garden hose to the raw water hose and blow the blockage back out the bottom of the boat. Is this good advice? Has anyone else had to do clear a blockage before? When I cleaned my strainers I actually had a squid in one of them. It was pretty nasty. Duane  

Air Defense Dept

Yes - blow it out. I had to do this with my generator - I used my lungs. Before a single weed made it to the strainer, a cigarette butt clogged the intake tube right at the strainer, and a ton of weeds packed it in sideways. I pulled the butt out, and blew the weeds back into the ocean.  

Wow, your lungs huh? That sounds easier than hooking up a garden hose. I think I'll try that first. Amazing a little thing like a cig. butt can bring down a huge boat. Thanks for the reply, Duane  

Just realize that once it clears, it blows back!  

Well-Known Member

Firefly, Where you are located, oyster shells will form on and inside the intake grate and very rarely in the hose above the thru-hull. Get in the habit of keeping a long stainless steel putty knife with a big handle on it on the boat. With a mask on you can clear the grate and the shells that form inside it in about 30 seconds......which is a lot cheaper than paying a diver.  

• Jun 14, 2007

Active Member

Firefly - Groco makes a sea strainer that will grind up (like a blender) the contents in the strainer basket and spit it out overboard. Not that this fixes your hose problem...but it sure would fix that squid issue!  

Instead of using my lungs, I use one of those "Air in a Can" keyboard cleaners to blow out my generator line if it gets a clogged intake. I put the little plastic hose in the line and use my finger as a makeshift cork and give a few short bursts of air. So far it's worked everytime!!  

• Jun 15, 2007

Thanks Frank, that's good advise. I'm located in Key West. I've already scheduled the diver this time, but next time I may try clearing it myself. This time, though, I'm having him clean the entire bottom of my boat. After, you knock the clams loose, do they get sucked up into the strainer? Jeff, does that Groco retro fit the strainer I already have or do you have to replace your current strainers? Is there a website you can point me to? Novation, hey I have one of those at home. Maybe I'll give that a try. I thought about one of those new pressure canned air things they sell at Kmart that is used to clear a clogged sink, but I was afraid the pressure may be to high. What ya' think? Duane  

Whatever you scrape loose either falls between the grates out of the way or lays there and is sucked up into the strainer when you start the engines. You just need to empty the strainer basket pretty soon after scraping the intakes. The Groco macerating strainer is not an add-on. They replace your existing strainer and use 12VDC.....and quite a bit of it at that. THe retail cost of the strainer only is about $1400 ea. to which you need to add installation. Some of the macerators can handle more than one end water user but I don't know if they can flow enough for multiple engines. They will do nothing for a clogged intake strainer, however. They are only useful for chewing up grass, minnows, squid, etc that make it to the strainer.  

• Jun 18, 2007

I think I'll just stick with my old fashion strainers. They're easy to get to and easy to do maint. on.  

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Raw water intake size Thru hull

Discussion in ' Powerboats ' started by fpjeepy05 , May 7, 2012 .

fpjeepy05 Senior Member

I'm re-powering a boat that had gas engines and is now getting diesels. I was wondering if anyone knew if there is a general rule for intake size to hp ratio or such. I would like to use the watts high speed thru-hulls which are one inch and then run the sea strainers in the boat. The engines are Yanmar 6lp, 315hp. I would like to do this because the best place to put the intakes is in front of the props and I don't want to mess up the water by putting a scoop strainer or the other strainer there. http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-...um=Feed&utm_campaign=Product&utm_term=THFZ402 Thoughts?  

tunnels Previous Member

:idea: Like is with superyachts and the like they have a really big inlet that serves everything thats likely to ever want water . one hole thats it ,so make it big !! Once and forever more !  

CDK retired engineer

Any object smaller than 1" gets sucked in and lands in the strainer. If you use the type with slits, only tiny stuff can enter, so you don't need strainers at all. Instead of 1" (which is sufficient for your engine) I would recommend 1 1/2" because the intake velocity is much lower.  

Attached Files:

rxcomposite Senior Member

A seacock/valve must immediately follow the raw water intake for good design. If there is any trouble or blockage in the cooling system, you can shut off the seacock/valve and remove the hose. Also a good rule to follow is that the internal diameter of the engine cooling water intake must match the i.d. of the raw water intake to prevent restriction. Most probably you have a rubber hose connection and a pipe flange from the engine so your threaded raw water intake must have the same internal diameter. Use a bigger size as CDK has suggested and fit a reducer or a pipe flange to the seacock/raw water intake to fit the rubber hose. The best layout is raw water thru hull, seacock/valve, strainer, hose to engine. That way, if the strainer clogs, you can shut off the valve and clean the strainer. Large yachts have a redundant system. Two thru hull, cross coupled, with a clearing tube that goes all the way above the waterline. If one fails, the other side can be used while one is being cleared without closing the valve.  

rxcomposite said: ↑ The best layout is raw water thru hull, seacock/valve, strainer, hose to engine. That way, if the strainer clogs, you can shut off the valve and clean the strainer. Click to expand...

Another consideration is that you don't put anything in front of the prop that will disturb the flow of water even if it is a flush or mushroom type. On the side maybe. You have a 315 hp. in there. Must be high speed.  

rxcomposite said: ↑ Another consideration is that you don't put anything in front of the prop that will disturb the flow of water even if it is a flush or mushroom type. On the side maybe. You have a 315 hp. in there. Must be high speed. Click to expand...

While i worked in Korea we were making a fishing boat about 25 foot . The korean fishermen have a external water pick up system they always install and fits on the transom !!so no big holes in the hull it is fool proof has a screen on the bottom and the hose goes up the transom and inside to the motor . because theres so many plastic bags and lumps of alsorts of crap and things floating around strainers and bottom pick ups were a real hassle so they developed something that worked very well and never gave any probelms ever . Simple ,easy and everone uses them even on big boats just a bigger version of this and they never run out of water even on fast boats , the ones we were making did 42 knots full out !!  

2087713414.jpg

2087713413.jpg.

powerabout Senior Member

MerCrusier make one exactly like that is just not removable  

SheetWise All Beach -- No Water.

tunnels said: ↑ While i worked in Korea we were making a fishing boat about 25 foot . The korean fishermen have a external water pick up system they always install and fits on the transom !!so no big holes in the hull it is fool proof has a screen on the bottom and the hose goes up the transom and inside to the motor. Click to expand...

SheetWise said: ↑ I like that! Easy, and solves a lot of potential problems. Click to expand...

powerabout said: ↑ MerCrusier make one exactly like that is just not removable Click to expand...

sean-nós Senior Member

CDK said: ↑ Any object smaller than 1" gets sucked in and lands in the strainer. If you use the type with slits, only tiny stuff can enter, so you don't need strainers at all. Instead of 1" (which is sufficient for your engine) I would recommend 1 1/2" because the intake velocity is much lower. Click to expand...

Stumble Senior Member

Sean, Most engine manufacturers specifically recommend against using screens like that. If facing backwards the flowing water can actually drain water from the system, starving the engine for cooling water. If facing forward they can pressurize the water system and force water into the engine. Facing either way the slats make a great place for marine growth to get started and clog the water intake. For engines particularly the best option is an standard round hole that feeds into a sea strainer. These have large enough mesh to allow free flow of water, but small enough to catch junk in the water. Further sea strainers allow you to clean them out from inside the boat, while scoops require you to jump in the water every time a jellyfish gets jammed in it. These scoops are just a bad design idea from the get go in my opinion. See http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=124964 for a nice write up.  

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Sean, I installed mine with the slits facing the bow, hence the product name "water scoop". Not that it really matters, your pump will draw water anyway, but at speed there will be some dynamic pressure; I'm sure the pump impeller likes that. Today I did some last checks before the boat returns to the sea in a couple of days. I brought a wire brush to clean the water intakes but didn't need it because there was just some dry algae I removed with one finger. One engine was lifted out this winter, so I know the Johnson pump is clean; I guess the other one will be clean too. I installed the scoops 4 years ago and decided not to use strainers because the engine bay is pretty crowded and if one is clogged I need a dwarf to clean it. Until now, the need for a strainer didn't arise, although this is a very warm sea, full of life I don't fancy.  

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SEAFLO Raw Water Marine Intake Cooling Water Strainer for Boat Fits 1/2", 5/8" & 3/4" Hose Sizes

Purchase options and add-ons

• Allows multiple intake hose sizes
• Transparent cover allowing easy inspection of the filter without dismantling or stopping flow.
• Large surface area reduces how often it needs to be cleaned.
• Applications also include bilge pump strainer and washdown kit strainer
• Hose size 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4"

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Seaflo Marine Raw Cooling Water Intake Strainer

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Customers like the quality and performance of the auto part. They mention it's made of durable plastic, has a solid filter housing, and works well. Some say it fits in tight engine compartments.

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Customers like the performance of the auto part. They say it works well, has no problems so far, and is as expected. Some mention that it's easy to install and fits in tight engine compartments.

" Good strainer . Well constructed. Easy to open. Flexible input/output barb sizes." Read more

"Using for Raw Water pump on my boat AC. Works great , trim extra nipple off to hose size, seems to help a little on flow...." Read more

" Great strainer . Easy to install. Fits in tight engine compartment." Read more

"These are inexpensive, which is great, because the lid will fail after about 2 years . You can't buy the lid alone, so you need the whole thing...." Read more

Customers are satisfied with the quality of the auto part. They mention that it is made of durable plastic, and has a solid filter housing.

"Good strainer. Well constructed . Easy to open. Flexible input/output barb sizes." Read more

"...The grey portion of the strainer is a slightly more flexible, more durable plastic , the lid is very hard and will crack under strain...." Read more

" Very good quality and breakable product of the sizes of in and out" Read more

"Great strainer for less $$$ than the Vetus. I am impressed with the quality . Seaflo continues to up their game...." Read more

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A ‘Tornadic Waterspout’ Likely Sank a Billionaire’s Yacht Near Sicily. Here’s What That Means

Scientists say the extreme weather phenomenon could grow more common as climate change brings warmer water temperatures and more intense storms to the Mediterranean

Rudy Molinek

Mass Media Fellow, AAAS

The Phoenicians, who sailed the Mediterranean Sea 3,000 years ago, often used a stretch of water east of Palermo, Sicily, as a safe harbor . The area is protected from the strong, cold winds that blow southeast out of France. More recently, the anchorage has become a haven for billionaires and their yachts. But that safety was shattered this week with the sudden sinking of tech magnate Mike Lynch ’s yacht, the Bayesian .

Around 4 a.m. local time on Monday, a sudden and violent storm rocked the calm waters. Local residents tell the New York Times ’ Emma Bubola and Michael J. de la Merced that the storm brought some of the strongest winds they’d ever experienced—it “felt like an earthquake.”

Minutes later, the yacht was underwater. Of the 22 people aboard, local responders rescued 15, recovered six bodies— including Lynch’s on Thursday—and are still searching for his 18-year-old daughter.

Fabio Genco, head of the Palermo Emergency Medical Services, was one of the local responders who treated the survivors. “They told me that suddenly they found themselves catapulted into the water without even understanding how they had got there,” he says to NBC News ’ Claudia Rizzo, Claudio Lavanga and Yuliya Talmazan. “The whole thing seems to have lasted from three to five minutes.”

Meteorologists have since suggested the ship was sunk by a spinning column of air and moisture called a “tornadic waterspout.” The extreme weather phenomenon is brought about by warm sea surface temperatures during a storm.

This powerful event lasted just minutes and hit only a small area, sparing a boat moored just a short distance from the Bayesian yacht. The waterspout’s sudden onset would have caught the crew by surprise, especially at such an early hour, experts say. “Episodes of such speed and intensity mean that even if you are prepared, it is difficult to react in time,” Luca Mercalli , the president of the Italian Meteorological Society, tells the Guardian ’s Angela Giuffrida.

Waterspouts tend to form above warmer waters , and their cylindrical structures take shape as rising humid air is spun into a vortex by incoming winds. Intense tornadic waterspouts, like the one that sank the Bayesian , occur in association with severe thunderstorms. They are “often accompanied by high winds and seas, large hail and frequent dangerous lightning,” according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration .

While predicting any individual waterspout is nearly impossible, since it’s such a small phenomenon, scientists can use models to foresee the conditions under which they’re likely to occur. Meteorologists look for warm, moist air, changing wind and an instigating factor like a cold front that can set off the storm. This combination of conditions is becoming more common in a changing climate that’s warming with the emissions from burning fossil fuels.

For the last two months, the region where the Bayesian sank has experienced extreme heat. Sea surface temperatures have hit 86 degrees Fahrenheit, or about 5.4 degrees above average. “With a high sea-surface temperature (as in the case of a heatwave), there is more energy for storms,” Bogdan Antonescu , an atmospheric physicist at the University of Bucharest in Romania, says to the Conversation ’s Jack Marley.

This weekend, a burst of cold air broke the heat and brought heavy thunderstorms to Sicily. With the warm water below, conditions were ripe for a disastrous waterspout.

“Sea temperatures of three degrees higher means an enormous quantity of energy for storms,” Mercalli tells the Guardian . “ And when cold air arrives, it’s explosive.”

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Rudy Molinek | READ MORE

Rudy Molinek is  Smithsonian  magazine's 2024 AAAS Mass Media Fellow.

Second intake for 2024 Water Fund now open

KAWARTHA LAKES - Attention landowners and community groups, don't miss this incredible opportunity to save big on your environmental projects. Kawartha Conservation is excited to announce that applications for the second intake of the 2024 Water Fund are now open from August 15 to October 15. With the Water Fund, you could reduce your project costs by up to 50%, to a maximum of $4,000. By taking action now, you can not only make a positive impact on the environment but also save money. Funding is limited, so act fast and apply today.

The Water Fund supports local projects that positively impact the environment, including shoreline improvements, tree planting, gardening projects, septic upgrades, well decommissions, and more.

To apply, interested parties must review the Applicant’s Guideline and schedule a consultation with Kawartha Conservation staff before submitting an application. All applications must include cost estimates, required permits, and photographs of the site to be considered for funding.

“The Water Fund is a fantastic opportunity for landowners and community groups to make meaningful environmental improvements while receiving financial support,” said Ola Pasternak, Landowner and Community Support at Kawartha Conservation. “We understand that every dollar counts, and we are committed to helping you reduce your project costs without sacrificing quality. Our team is here to provide valuable advice and support throughout the application process to ensure your project’s success.”

Since its inception in 2008, the Water Fund has awarded over $750,000 to landowner and community projects within the Kawartha Conservation watershed.

The deadline to apply for the 2024 Water Fund is Tuesday, October 15, 2024. Don’t wait—apply now to take advantage of this valuable opportunity.

For more information and to apply, go to www.kawarthaconservation.com/waterfund , or contact Ola Pasternak, Landowner and Community Support, by email at [email protected] or phone 705.328.2271 ext 241.

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Raw water intake - 2 questions

• Thread starter Paul Akers
• Start date Jul 7, 2003
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Ask A Hunter Owner

1. This past long weekend I had an incident that has been bothering me. It has been a consistent one for me that seems to be happening more frequently. My raw water intake has a tendency to get clogged while I'm sitting still and running. either while idling or at higher RPM's while charging my batteries. I don't have any straining device over my raw water intake thru-hull (e.g. clamshell strainer). I do have my internal strainer, but the 1/2" hull intake is where the blockage usually happens. Seaweed, eel grass, etc tend to be pulled in.My question: Is this normal? Or should I have the clamshell strainer on the hull? My dock mates' consensus is that I should have the hull strainer to avoid sucking up any material. What do you readers have over your intake thru-hull?2. How high on the inside bulkhead should a raw water strainer be mounted? Should it overflow fast or slow when the cap is removed and the seacock is open? Or should it overflow at all?These are factory-installed conditions, so it has been my tendency to assume that they are OK. But...you never know.Thanks, in advance, to everyone. This site has always been and excellent source of information.  

What's the point? If you had a clam shell strainer, are you going to dive under the boat to clear it? It's easier and safer to clean the strainer inside the boat, especially in bad conditions, which is when things like that seem to happen. There should be a sea cock at the thru-hull that you can close to keep sea water out when cleaning--if not, you should install one.  

Close de valve As a matter of interest to this thread.I close the engine (Yanmar 3GM) sea water feed through hull valve every time I shut down the engine. I can just imagine the nice warm dark engine sea water feed tube being a place that sea crittes would love to set up housekeeping.Here in the warm waters of the Gulf (86F)crtters do grow. I also remove the through hull speed wheel every time I dock. If not,it may not turn next time out because of the sea critter growth. I understand there are chemical applications that can be used to cover the wheel itself and the housing - but I find it hard to believe that there is anything that will deter critter growth - except removal of the unit from the water.RD  

Here's the point! I've been told that the raw water hull strainer (clam shell) is less likely to become fouled than the thru-hull. If the strainer gets clogged with seaweed, it may just wash off when the motor is shut down. Or the entire strainer won't get covered in most cases (except for a plastic bag). Currently, anything large completely clogs the hole/thru-hull.  

My question is... Should I put a hull strainer over the intake?  

Thanks, Ed Yes, mine is a mushroom type of thru-hull. And it is entirely exposed. I have a strainer basket between ther thru-hull and the raw water pump. But it doesn't help when the mushroom gets clogged. If too much debris is introduced thru the mushroom, then the elbow on the inside of the hull at the shutoff valve becomes clogged. I hope this is less confusing.Thanks for the diagram. It will be very helpful. I am leaning toward the slotted hull strainer as a remedy to this problem.  

Ken Sturgill

Here's a tip I've had the same problem. I was talking to a commercial fisherman. He told me that they have two one inch through hulls at least two feet apart or more that go into a tee then into the strainer. There is very little suction but volume going into the strainer so you don't suck seaweed. Next haul out put in a 1" through hull with a vent on it then run a 1" hose to your strainer with an 1" adapter fitting for the strainer. This might do the trick.  

Elbow, Ed Ed. The elbow is a 90 degree radius elbow that's threaded onto the thru-hull. Then the seacock valve is threaded into the elbow. This keeps it parallel to the deck and below the floorboard. A barbed nipple is threaded into the valve and leads (via water hose) to the Perko strainer. It usually clogs at the nipple since the opening is too small (3/8"). To clean, I shut the valve off and remove the hose. I open the valve to determine how much water passes thru. There must be a solid shot of water for a clear opening. I will then use a heavy wire to "ream out" the valve/thru-hull and loosen the clog. Sometimes that is all that I have to do. Other times for a more heavy clog, I will also take my Avon foot pump and place it over the nipple and give it a good backflush of air pressure. That usually does the trick.  

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Sixth water death in East Anglia in three weeks as man falls in river while boarding rental boat

• Wednesday 21 August 2024 at 1:44pm

A man has died after falling into a river while trying to get on to a boat - becoming the sixth death in water in the East of England in less than a month.

The man, aged in his 50s, was recovered from the water by emergency services but was declared dead shortly after.

He fell in to the River Bure near North River Road in Great Yarmouth, Norfolk, at 9.10pm on Tuesday while trying to board a rented boat.

The family of the man had been informed, said Norfolk Police. The death was being treated as unexplained but was not thought to be suspicious, added a spokesman.

The death follows other apparent drownings in the region over the summer.

On Tuesday, the body of a man in his 30s was found in the River Wensum at Costessey near Norwich

On Saturday, a man in his 70s died at Brancaster on the north Norfolk coas t, and the following day the body of a man in his 20s was pulled from the water at Wroxham Broad, after he went missing on Friday night .

Last week a teenager died after being seen in difficulty while swimming in a lake in Cherry Hinton near Cambridge.

On 31 July, the body of kayaker Cory Chilvers was recovered from near Wiggenhall St Germans in west Norfolk. He had gone missing three days earlier after being seen capsizing.

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