yacht rigging tools

• standing rigging
• rope and line
• cams, cleats and clutches
• head sail gear
• roller furling
• main sail control
• mast hardware
• eye straps and pad eyes
• fairleads and bulls eyes
• anchor and docking
• miscellaneous hardware
• Alexander Roberts
• My Wishlist

NOTE :  SOME ORDERS MAY REQUIRE ADDITIONAL SHIPPING COSTS  PARTICULARY   THOSE ITEMS WHICH ARE HEAVY or LONG.  INCLUDES ALL FURLERS,  TRACKS,  FURLER EXTRUSIONS AND LARGE QUANITIES OF WIRE ALSO MULTI PIECE SHIPMENTS,,,,, ALSO OUR WEBSITE CAN ONLY CALCULATE SHIPPING FOR THE LOWER 48'S WE WILL CONTACT YOU WITH SHIPPING COSTS BEFORE PROCESSING YOUR ORDER.

All prices are subject to change without notice.

Location & Hours

• Customer Service
• Order Tracking
• Your Account
• Store Policies & Info
• Privacy Policy
• Helpful Links
• Payment Methods

Shopping Cart: 0 Items

JIB FURLING GEAR

• CDI Flexible
• Furling Accessories
• Racing Foils
• Whisker and Spinnaker

MAIN SAIL FURLING and REEFING

• Boom Furlers
• Reefing and LazyJacks

MAIN SAIL TRACK SYSTEMS

Standing rigging.

• Swage Terminals and Toggles
• Turnbuckles
• Backstay Adjusters
• Inner Forestay Tools...
• Miscellaneous Hardware
• Measuring Guide
• Hardware and Wire

RUNNING RIGGING

• Rope Clutches
• Cam and Standard Cleats
• Pad Eyes, Eye Straps
• Rachet, Snatch, Wire
• Halyard Lift
• Accessories
• rigid vangs
• tackle vangs

GROUND TACKLE

Mast climbing.

• ATN Top Climber

RADAR MOUNTS AND REFLECTORS

Welcome to rigging only.

Our www.riggingandhardware.com shop on line site is now open for business. We now have most manufacture's parts up and running. Pricing is current on the riggingandhardware.com site. Pictures and selection guides are rather lacking at this time but we are working on them and will be loading more product and manufacturers asap. As always, don't hesitate to contact us with any questions or to place an order at [email protected] or call (508) 992-0434.

Our Mission

• We now stock and swage wire up to 5/8 diameter for sailboat standing rigging and architectural wire projects. Larger sizes are available.
• We now stock and swage wire up to 5/8 diameter for standing rigging and architectural projects. Larger sizes are available.
• Metric wire and swage fittings are available for standing rigging applications. We are able to provide swaged standing rigging assemblies as well as mechanical terminals (assembled or you assemble) to meet your needs at an affordable cost. Current stock is 8-10-12mm. Note the bulk of these fittings will have imperial pin and thread dimensions.

Return Policy

Customer comments.

• We thank you and your staff for your help and advise. We are enjoying sailing more with the furler. M.&R. G., Chicago
• All arrived safely and perfectly on time. The lifelines are almost too pretty to put on the boat and it's a damn pretty boat. The shrouds and backstay are superb and a perfect fit. If anyone ever wants a referral about Rigging Only tell them to contact me. R. A. , Curator, N. C.
• Just a quick note to tell you how grateful I am. The order was waiting for me when I arrived as promised. All the parts were of top quality and the prices were more than reasonable. I am recommending the services and products of Rigging Only to all my fellow charter captains of the Virgin Islands Charter League. Capt. G. F. USVI
• Due to your excellent quality, service, and prices on my previous order I would like to get a price quote and estimated turnaround time for replacing my current standing rigging... B. S. Gurnee, IL.
• Got them on time! Many Thanks! C. S. Lacombe, LA

Contact Information

• Seabags & Ditty Bags
• Rigging Knives & Tools
• Clothing & Accessories
• Navy Surplus & Supplies
• Heaving Lines & Knots
• Brass Lamps & Lanterns
• Marine Project Leather
• Rope Bracelets & More
• Jolly Roger / Pirate Gear
• Sounding Lead Weights

The World's Finest Seabags & Ditty Bags.

• Seabags & Ditty Bags
• Rigging Knives & Tools
• Clothing & Accessories
• Navy Surplus & Supplies
• Heaving Lines & Knots
• Brass Lamps & Lanterns
• Rope Bracelets & More

Sailing & Rigging Knife Collection

Currey Lockspike Bosun Knife

2-Piece Rigging Knife & Marlinspike Kit with Leather Sheath

Made in England.

3-Piece Rigging Knife Kit w/ Marlinspike + Leather Sheath

5-Piece Rigging Knife + Tool Kit w/ Leather Sheath

Victorinox® Skipper Rigging Knife w/ Marlinspike

made in Switzerland

Victorinox® Skipper PRO Rigging Knife w/ Marlinspike

Currey Lockspike 'Captain' Rigging Knife

Sheffield Bowie Knife w/ Marlinspike + Leather Sheath

hardened stainless

Currey Knife Lanyard

sliding turks head knot

Rangergrip Boatsman® Rigging Knife

Victorinox A.G. - Switzerland

4-Piece Rigging Knife Kit w/ Marlinspike + Leather Sheath

Genuine US Navy Mark 1 Deck Knife

Rigging Knife with Leather Sheath

Sharpening Stone / Kit

Made in USA

$13.95 From $8.95

Currey Marlinspike / Fid

Genuine Currey Ltd. Made in England.

From $17.88

#15 Black Seizing Twine

for whipping, seizing & lashing!...

Sheffield Bowie Knife w/ Leather Sheath

Captain Currey "Deckhand" Sailing Knife

Currey's MK-1 Deck Knife

hi-carbon British steel

Snapshackle Key Ring FOB

#316L stainless steel

Waxed Sail Twine / Sewing & Whipping Thread

1/4 lb. bulk spool

Rigging Knife Sheath

options available

Deluxe M-724 Paratrooper Switchblade Kit

genuine US government issue

MX-991/U Anglehead Flashlight ("Moonbeam')

US Government Issue

From $24.95

1/8" New England Vintage 3-Strand Rope

DIY lanyards, ropework, etc...

Canvas Water / Tool Bucket

available in 2 sizes

From $19.00

Classic ZIPPO Lighter - Solid Brass

100% pure organic

Sail Needle

M&B SHIPCANVAS CO.

Ashley's #1322 Rope Bracelet

1.25" wide - genuine New England rope

A/O Sailor Ditty Bag

with storm flap + cargo pocket

From $229.00

1/8" New England Braided Dacron Cord

high strength lashings, etc.

'Chunky Monkey' Heaving Line Knot

1/3 pound x 11" length

$44.95 $38.95

Spun Dacron Heaving Line w/ Monkey's Fist

available in 60' or 100'

From $79.25

Rum Runner Seabag

leather bottom + shoulder pad

From $329.00

550 Paracord

available in 8 colors

Nantucket Sailor's Bracelet

1" wide - genuine New England rope

M-2205 Military Issue Pocket Knife

From $74.95

  Photo by Ed Morris / M&B SHIPCANVAS

Rigging Knife F.A.Q.'s

What is a "sheepsfoot" blade?

Throughout history, sailors, riggers and shipwrights have relied upon the traditional  "sheepsfoot blade" for everyday use aboard the ship. It is named after its blunt, rounded tip and flat bottom edge which closely resemble the profile of a sheep's foot. It is not a fighting blade or weapon, but in the application of a rigging knife, it is understood to be one of the best blade designs for cutting rope.

Unlike a sharp-tipped hunting blade (drop point; clip, Bowie, etc.), the idea is to reduce the possibility of getting accidentally jabbed while working and moving around aboard the ship. The other advantage is that a true sheepsfoot blade carries a perfectly straight cutting edge. This enables the rigger to place a line on a cutting block or flat surface... then set the blade on the line exactly where he wants it... and then strike the top of the blade with a mallet. With a little bit of practice, this produces an extra-clean cut without sawing and damaging the line.

Centuries later, the "Sheepsfoot Blade" is probably still one of the best for cutting rope & lines. Notice how the handle has been drilled to attach a lanyard. Perfect!

What is the marlinspike used for?

The marlinspike is the primary tool for everything rope-related. It should be tapered to a fine point, but not quite so sharp as to damage or cut the individual fibers of the line or rope. It is often used to help free up jammed knots in a hurry, particularly if the knot has been repeatedly soaked and strained over the course of time. The other use is for rope-splicing, where the spike will be inserted between strands to loosen things up and create working room for the tucks while completing the splice.

A proper rigging knife will also have a "lanyard bail" (or a ring, or sometimes a drilled hole) for attaching a light line or pull loop. With a lanyard, the knife can be tied to its owner and is always ready for action without risk of getting dropped overboard.

What about serrated blades, or combination straight/serrated blades?

Serrated blades have a very specific range of cutting applications in which they excel. The serrated blade cuts quickly and is ideal for high-tech rope materials such as Dyneema, Kevlar, and Spectra. It also does well as a safety knife for fast cutting in emergencies. However serrations work by "sawing rather than slicing," and so the fibers of the rope react differently, especially with smaller diameters, or when rigging and splicing. 

So depending on how the knife will be used, there is a case to be made for both straight-edge and serrated type blades. The combination of both  is also a possibility. 

What is your advice on getting a folding knife vs. a sheath knife?

It really depends on the application because they both have their place. Personal preference is also a major factor here, as well as the size (diameter) of line that you might be expecting to cut. Of course a folding knife offers superior portability and convenience because it can be easily slipped into a pocket or pouch. And as long as its kept sharp, a good folding knife can do just about anything that a sheath knife can do.

However a sheath knife offers the quickest, one-handed operation, which can be an important safety consideration. Also the sheath knife, due to its usually greater length and mass, is able to cut larger diameters of line faster , and with fewer strokes . I also like the fact that a sheath knife can be combined into a tool kit... holding real and proper full-size tools that are durable enough for everyday use aboard the ship.

In nautical terms, what is the difference between a rope and a line?

Technically speaking, "rope" is synonymous with the term "cordage", and is the most correct, general term to describe the finished material itself, i.e. "a spool of rope." Rope becomes "line" once it has been assigned a specific purpose, such as a dockline, anchor line, heaving line, jackline, etc. Running rigging and sail controls are 'lines' as well, including halyards, sheets, reefing lines, topping lifts, downhauls, outhauls, cunninghams, preventers, and most boom vangs (except hydraulic). The list is far from complete.

Of course there are just enough exceptions to keep things interesting, because we also have bolt ropes, foot ropes, luff ropes, bell ropes, rope lanyards, etc... some of which are really, of course, lines! :)

  Seabags & Ditty Bags  ⭐    Sweaters & Watchcaps  ⭐    Lamps & Lanterns  ⭐  Navy Surplus  ⭐  Heaving Lines + Knots  ⭐  Sounding Leads + Leadlines  ⭐  Rope Bracelets  ⭐  Marine Project Leather  ⭐  Jolly Roger Pirate Gear  ⭐  ZIPPO

Pacific Sailboat Supply

• HARDWARE & RIGGING
• LINE & ROPE

ELECTRONICS

APPAREL & GEAR

ANCHORING & DOCKING

• CAM CLEATS & ORGANIZERS

FURLING SYSTEMS

SAIL HANDLING

• RIGGING, FITTINGS, & SPARES
• EMERGENCY RESCUE
• HARNESS & TETHERS
• RESCUE SUITS
• ANCHORING & DOCKING LINE
• CRUISING LINE
• RACING & COMPETITION LINE
• COMMUNICATION
• INSTRUMENTS
• DISPLAYS & NAVIGATION

Your cart is empty

PACIFIC POINTS

OVER 10% OFF

UP TO 30% OFF

Over 15% off

DECK ORGANIZERS

UP TO 20% OFF

Up to 30% off

Featured Brands

over 10% off

Harken Protexit Blocks

MAINSHEET SYSTEMS

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

RIGGING & FITTINGS

Members automatically earn Pacific Points with every purchase. Simply log in, buy gear, and start accumulating points to cash in!

PRODUCT OF THE MONTH

KONG Lifting System For Inflatable Boats

Lifting system for inflatable boats.

Lifting system for inflatable boats (RIB) made of a three-point lifting sling with rigging plate, additional bridle for fourth attachment point, and two 18” diameter loop straps. Aluminum rigging plate spreads the load evenly and creates one attachment point for quick connecting. Adjustable up to 11’-6” (inside leg) and 8’-6” (outside legs). Additional bridle with 27” legs, 1-3/4” ring, and stainless quick release snap shackles for creating the fourth attachment point. 18” diameter straps used to connect to objects without attachment points. Safe working load for system is 500 pounds (227 Kg). Made in Italy.

IN NEED OF TECHNICAL GUIDANCE?

Reach out with your question, and one of our staff members will get back to you shortly. Or, if you require immediate assistance, give us a call at 805-900-7282 during normal operating hours.

FEATURED CLASS

The 16′ skiff is a distinctly Australian high-performance dinghy, renowned for its three-person crew and impressive sailing capabilities. With a storied history spanning over a century, the class has evolved significantly over the years. Modern 16′ skiffs are equipped with two crew members on trapeze and feature large masthead asymmetrical spinnakers, enhancing their speed and agility. In Australia, the 16′ skiff is one of the most popular sailing boats, with active fleets in New South Wales and Queensland. There are currently over 80 boats registered across nine clubs, and regattas often see impressive turnouts of up to 45 boats. Many 16′ skiff clubs boast excellent facilities and are dedicated to supporting sailing across various smaller dinghy classes.

To contain costs and to provide closer racing, strict one design rules were introduced in 1997/98 for hull design and construction. A design by former skiff sailor, Craig Hughes, was accepted as being the most progressive and suitable to take the Class forward.  The design rules also fixed the number of masts and sails which could be registered for the Australian Championship Series. Only two masts can be used and the number of sails is limited to three jibs, two main sails and two spinnakers. Boats utilise these sails in combinations to give different rig sizes which can be selected for optimal performance in different wind strengths.

16ft skiff specifications:

Hull Length: 4.88 m (16 ft)

Minimum Beam: 1520 mm

Maximum Beam: 1780 mm

Maximum Sail Area (Working): 22 m²

Sail Area (Spinnaker): Approx. 45 m²

Minimum Crew: 3

KEEP ME UPDATED

Create an account to stay updated on new sailboat rigging, hardware, gear, and tech.

SUPPORT YOUTH SAILING

Click here to support junior programs

100% OF 2024 PROFIT FROM PACIFIC SAILBOAT SUPPLY BRANDED PRODUCT IS DONATED TO SUPPORT JUNIOR SAILING PROGRAMS.

Brion Toss Yacht Riggers Catalog

The global authority in superyachting

• NEWSLETTERS
• Yachts Home
• The Superyacht Directory
• Yacht Reports
• Brokerage News
• The largest yachts in the world
• The Register
• Yacht Advice
• Yacht Design
• 12m to 24m yachts
• Monaco Yacht Show
• Builder Directory
• Designer Directory
• Interior Design Directory
• Naval Architect Directory
• Yachts for sale home
• Motor yachts
• Sailing yachts
• Explorer yachts
• Classic yachts
• Sale Broker Directory
• Charter Home
• Yachts for Charter
• Charter Destinations
• Charter Broker Directory
• Destinations Home
• Mediterranean
• South Pacific
• Rest of the World
• Boat Life Home
• Owners' Experiences
• Conservation and Philanthropy
• Interiors Suppliers
• Owners' Club
• Captains' Club
• BOAT Showcase
• Boat Presents
• Events Home
• World Superyacht Awards
• Superyacht Design Festival
• Design and Innovation Awards
• Young Designer of the Year Award
• Artistry and Craft Awards
• Explorer Yachts Summit
• Ocean Talks
• The Ocean Awards
• BOAT Connect
• Between the bays
• Golf Invitational
• BOATPro Home
• Superyacht Insight
• Global Order Book
• Premium Content
• Product Features
• Testimonials
• Pricing Plan
• Tenders & Equipment

The definitive guide to sailing yacht rigging

Related articles, superyacht directory.

Do you know your Bermudan rig from your DynaRig or wingsails? And which is best? BOAT explains it all...

Take a look at a modern racing yacht from above, beating to windward and heeled to the breeze, and you can see at a glance why Bermudan rigs have stood the test of time. With its fore and aft sails bladed into efficient aerodynamic shapes, a modern yacht can slice close to the wind and be driven hard. Such a sight would have been outlandish a century ago. Then, a typical trading barquentine could set 18 sails to catch light airs, but it needed a large crew to battle with canvas far out on the yards. In a modern miracle as incredible in its way as flight, today’s racing yachts can sail faster than the speed of the wind – in some cases several times faster.

A mainsail set on a single spar is an age-old concept but only in the 19th century was it adapted as the Bermudan or Marconi rig. A one-piece mainsail set on a mast without a gaff, hoisted with one halyard and controlled by one sheet, was simpler and more efficient. This revolution became the power train of pleasure yachting and racing.

But perhaps the time is coming for a re-evaluation of simpler rigs requiring fewer crew – alternatives with lower loads operated by automated systems. In an era of reduced carbon consumption, could more radical sailplans even herald a revival in sail power?

The evergreen Bermudan rig

The Bermudan rig is the all-rounder, able to perform well at all angles of sail. It is efficient upwind, while downwind the sail area can be significantly boosted with a big gennaker or spinnaker. For good reasons, it is the first choice for nearly every modern sailing yacht up to around 60 to 65 metres for cruising and regatta racing alike. At larger sizes, however, things start to become trickier, and the trade-offs get interesting.

Over the last decade, sail handling technology has steadily advanced to allow sloop rigs to grow larger and larger. “But with that comes a highly loaded rig, many tonnes of compression from tension in the rigging, and you have to build structure in the boat to accept that,” explains Paul MacDonald, founder and superyacht sales manager of Southern Spars.

“You have to have a lot of deck gear and captive winches below decks and the machinery for that. But over the years, boom furling systems and MPS [Multi Purpose Sails for downwind angles] stored on a drum, for example, have made sail handling safer.

Bill Tripp is the designer behind the 86-metre Aquijo , which broke new ground in 2015 as the world’s largest Bermudan ketch. Tripp prefers to call the rig a "sketch", a portmanteau word for a rig that is neither a sloop nor a ketch “because the main and mizzen are identical”. Even though the sailplan is divided over two masts, each spar is still a towering 90 metres above the water. Aquijo perfectly illustrates the issues involved with a Bermudan rig when scaled up.

“The sloop is great but I prefer the ‘sketch’ for sailing around the world under full control due to the desirability of a two-masted rig for reaching ability, which dominates passages, and the safety of controllable loads when sailing in all kinds of conditions miles from nowhere,” he says.

Upwind, Aquijo sets a jib, staysail, mainsail and mizzen, all in North Sails 3Di, totalling 3,821 square metres. A furling Code sail for reaching and downwind angles increases that to a vast 5,051 square metres.

While Aquijo has a crew retinue of 17, it can be controlled under sail by six or seven people. With custom winches to handle halyards and sheets, the sails can be hoisted astonishingly quickly for such a large rig. “It takes five minutes to put the main up, on average, and the main and mizzen can go up at the same time,” Tripp says. Aquijo has now sailed 100,000 nautical miles around the world and the owner is planning another circumnavigation through the Northwest Passage.

Tripp is not convinced of the wisdom of a much larger single-masted sloop rig. “If you are day sailing in the Med, a sloop would be awesome, but I am not sure if you had fewer sails you would be able to [reduce canvas] well enough. Also the mast is a windage problem when the keel is up and you are beam-to. If you are on anchor, that’s no problem but you’d have to be able to cope with being on the docks in 70 knots. The windage at 120 metres is not only more but the centre of effort is so much higher, and so the heeling loads all go up.”

However, British designer Malcolm McKeon , the name behind the high-performance, sloop-rigged carbon composite superyachts Missy and Ribelle , is pushing the sloop rig to new heights. His 85-metre design concept Apex, developed with Royal Huisman , would be the largest sloop-rigged yacht in the world. “The loads are enormous,” he admits, “but it is all scalable.”

“The big disadvantage is sail handling. The downwind sails are pretty complicated once you start hoisting and retrieving, even with drum and reel systems. It is not straightforward.” But, he adds, “I think we know the advantages of a sloop: if you want all-round performance you can’t beat it, even at the top end.”

Advantages of a clipper rig

The DynaRig has been around as a concept since the 1960s when German engineer Wilhelm Prölss devised these free-standing, rotating rigs as a fuel-saving solution for large commercial vessels. The idea was ahead of its time, so much so that its first realisation came nearly 40 years later when American owner Tom Perkins bought the residual technology and commissioned Dykstra Naval Architects to create a three-masted DynaRig for Maltese Falcon , his 88-metre Perini Navi.

The DynaRig is not as efficient upwind as the Bermudan rig, and is probably not the best solution for a yacht smaller than around 65 metres, suggests Jeroen de Vos of Dykstra. “We wouldn’t advise putting a DynaRig on a small yacht because there are other ways to manage sail handling. But on a larger yacht the DynaRig becomes an alternative because there is no rigging, no highly loaded sheets, low-tech [small] sails and no big winches.”

The beauty of the DynaRig is that its automatic systems can be handled by one or two people and, notes de Vos, “you don’t have to get out of your chair to go sailing. Maltese Falcon can sail on and off the anchor and can set 2,400 square metres of sail in six minutes. On other boats it takes six minutes to get the sail cover off.”

Damon Roberts of Magma Structures, which built the rigs for Maltese Falcon and the only other DynaRig yacht to date, the 106-metre Black Pearl , says: “You can do any manoeuvre easily; it’s like sailing a dinghy. There are no highly loaded sheets or ropes or flogging lines. You can luff up, bear away, tack and gybe at  any time and really enjoy sailing the boat without any apparent fuss.”

So with all these advantages, why has the DynaRig been chosen for only two sailing superyachts? For some designers, such as Malcolm McKeon, it is partly to do with compromises imposed by the large mast tubes and bearing diameters on the internal structure and layout, “particularly in the cockpit area,” he says. He also points out that the clipper ship look is not to every owner’s taste. “Sloops are more conventional looking,” he says.

Damon Roberts says there is still development work to be done. He has teamed up with Southern Spars and, with their additional resources, expects evolution with several new projects. “These include two at the moment that are twin-masted DynaRigs,” he says. “We did quite a lot of wind tunnel work early on as we felt that was really the sweet spot for it, and people will be stunned at how efficient these are.”

The future of the wingsail

Wingsails have been around for decades too, but with their adoption by the last two America’s Cups and the confluence with foiling technology, they have undergone rapid and revolutionary development.

To date, there is no proven solution for reefing a wing that would be suitable for offshore cruising or ocean passages. As the pronounced aerodynamic “nose” at the leading edge of a wing can develop force in strong winds, they could potentially make a large yacht uncontrollable in port as well.

“How do you get rid of sail and how does [a boat] handle when caught out in heavy wind conditions – which you will be? How do you keep the angle of attack all the way up the rig and how do you handle squalls?” Roberts asks. “A mechanism to reduce sail might be easy to sketch out but it is difficult to engineer.”

Jeroen de Vos says: “The wingsails are more developed towards performance and I wouldn’t say that they are as practical as soft sails or would ever make handling easier. But if somebody wants that, why not? Reefable soft sails, wings that are inflated, hoisted panels, possibly these are applicable. The development of this area is happening very rapidly.”

Paul MacDonald of Southern Spars agrees that the time is not here yet but thinks it will come. “In reality we are in the early days of wings. For the America’s Cup, they are the most efficient way of sailing by a long shot, but with them comes handling issues, which the industry hasn’t resolved yet. But I am sure they will be in 10 years’ time. Designers such as VPLP are starting to [work on concepts] and we are going to see something that is usable and efficient and suitable for ocean work eventually,” he says. “And whatever the solution is, you imagine that it will scale.”

Looking to the future

A drive for greener superyachts could present an opportunity for sail, but perhaps it needs to be less daunting.

“There is this intimidation of sheets and backstays, and sailing is a language you don’t learn in a year,” Tripp says. “But we have a project we are doing now with a yard with some new rig technology and some soft wings that we think is going to be viable.

“We can uncomplicate sailing more. If we can win people over from motorboats it will help, but we are only winning these battles one or two at a time. We need [more] projects like Sailing Yacht A , which are something really different, and do more things better with less energy. We as architects need to elicit change.”

McKeon also sees change coming. “People are more and more concerned about keeping their image green and sails are the way to do that,” he says. “Simpler sailing systems are needed. The current generation is used to Bermudan sloops. In years to come, the traditionalists will all be gone, and maybe new people will be more accepting of [different ideas]. I think in the future we will certainly have wings.”

Sign up to BOAT Briefing email

Latest news, brokerage headlines and yacht exclusives, every weekday

By signing up for BOAT newsletters, you agree to our Terms of Use and our Privacy Policy .

More about this yacht

Yachts for sale, similar yachts for sale, yachts for charter, more stories, most popular, from our partners, sponsored listings.

Shop by Material

Shop by construction, shop closeouts.

• Running Rigging
• Standard Rigging
• Rigging Inspection
• Refit & Service
• Custom Splicing Order
• OEM/Manufacturing
• Small Business Discount
• Wholesale Account
• Davey & Company
• Langman Rope
• Marlow Ropes
• New England Ropes
• Samson Rope
• Sterling Rope
• Teufelberger
• Veteran & Active Duty Discount
• First Responder Discount
• Universities, Camps, Non-Profits
• Government & Municipality
• Shipping & Returns
• RopeFest 2024
• Sailing & Recreational Marine

Rigging & Sail Making Tools

• Caulking Tools
• Knives & Hot Knives
• Fids, Needles, Tools
• Whipping Twine
• Splicing & Knot Books
• Canvas Riggers Bags

We use cookies to provide you a better user experience on this website. Cookie Policy

Currency: GBP

• Worldwide Delivery

Mooring Warps and Mooring Lines

• LIROS 3 Strand Polyester Mooring Warps
• LIROS Green Wave 3 Strand Mooring Warps
• LIROS Braided Dockline Mooring Warps
• LIROS Handy Elastic Mooring Warps
• Marlow Blue Ocean Dockline
• LIROS Super Yacht Mooring Polyester Docklines
• 50 metre / 100 metre Rates - Mooring

Mooring Accessories

• Mooring Compensators

Mooring Strops and Bridles

• V shape Mooring Bridles
• Y shape Mooring Bridles
• Small Boat and RIB Mooring Strops
• Mooring Strops
• Mooring Strops with Chain Centre Section

Mooring Assistance

• Coastline Bow Thruster Accessories
• Max Power Bow Thrusters
• Bonomi Mooring Cleats
• Majoni Fenders
• Polyform Norway Fenders
• Ocean Inflatable Fenders
• Dock Fenders
• Fender Ropes and Accessories

Mooring Components

• Mooring Swivels
• Mooring Shackles
• Mooring Cleats and Fairleads
• Mooring Buoys

Mooring Information

• Mooring Warps Size Guide
• Mooring Lines - LIROS Recommended Diameters
• Mooring Rope Selection Guide
• Mooring Warp Length and Configuration Guide
• How to estimate the length of a single line Mooring Strop
• Mooring Ropes - Break Load Chart
• Mooring Compensator Advisory
• Rope Cockling Information
• Fender Size Guide
• Majoni Fender Guide
• Polyform Norway Fender Inflation Guide
• More Article and Guides >

Anchor Warps Spliced to Chain

• LIROS 3 Strand Nylon Spliced to Chain
• LIROS Anchorplait Nylon Spliced to Chain

Anchor Warps

• LIROS Anchorplait Nylon Anchor Warps
• LIROS 3 Strand Nylon Anchor Warps
• Leaded Anchor Warp
• Drogue Warps and Bridles
• 50 / 100 metre Rates - Anchoring
• Aluminium Anchors
• Galvanised Anchors
• Stainless Steel Anchors

Calibrated Anchor Chain

• Cromox G6 Stainless Steel Chain
• G4 Calibrated Stainless Steel Anchor Chain
• Lofrans Grade 40
• MF DAMS Grade 70
• MF Grade 40
• Titan Grade 43
• Lewmar Windlasses
• Lofrans Windlasses
• Maxwell Windlasses
• Quick Windlasses
• Windlass Accessories and Spares

Chain Snubbers

• Chain Hooks, Grabs and Grippers
• Chain Snubbing Bridles
• Chain Snubbing Strops

Anchoring Accessories

• Anchor Connectors
• Anchor Trip Hooks and Rings
• Anchoring Shackles
• Bow Rollers and Fittings
• Chain and Anchor Stoppers
• Chain Links and Markers

Anchoring Information

• How To Choose A Main Anchor
• Anchoring System Assessment
• Anchor Chain and Rope Size Guide
• The Jimmy Green Guide to the Best Anchor Ropes
• What Size Anchor Do I Need?
• Anchor to Chain Connection Guide
• How to Choose Your Anchor Chain
• How to Establish the Correct Anchor Chain Calibration?
• Calibrated Anchor Chain - General Information
• Calibrated Anchor Chain Quality Control
• Calibrated Chain - Break Load and Weight Guide
• Galvanising - Managing Performance and Endurance expectation
• Can Galvanised Steel be used with Stainless Steel?
• Windlass Selection Guide
• More Articles and Guides

Stainless Steel Wire Rigging and Wire Rope

• 1x19 Wire Rigging
• 50 / 100 metre Rates - Wire and Fibre
• 7x19 Flexible Wire Rigging
• Compacted Strand Wire Rigging

Dinghy Rigging

• Stainless Steel Dinghy Rigging
• Dinghy Rigging Fittings

Fibre Rigging

• LIROS D-Pro Static Rigging
• LIROS D-Pro-XTR Fibre Rigging
• DynIce Dux Fibre Rigging
• Fibre Rigging Fittings

Wire Terminals

• Cones, Formers, Wedges, Ferrules, Rigging Spares
• Hi-Mod Swageless Terminals
• Sta-Lok Swageless Terminals
• Swage Terminals

Wire Rigging Fittings

• Turnbuckle Components

Rigging Accessories

• Rigging Chafe Protection
• Headsail Reefing Furlers
• Plastimo Jib Reefing
• Selden Furlex Reefing Gear

Furling Systems

• Anti-torsion Stays
• Straight Luff Furlers
• Top Down Furlers

Guard Wires, Rails and Fittings

• Guard Rail Fittings
• Guard Rails in Fibre and Webbing
• Guard Wire Accessories
• Guard Wires

Standing Rigging Assistance

• Replacing your Furling Line
• Fibre Rigging Break Load Comparison Guide
• More Articles and Guides >
• Cruising Halyards
• Performance Halyards
• Dinghy Halyards

Rigging Shackles

• Captive and Key Pin Shackles
• hamma™ Snap Shackles
• Soft Shackles
• Standard Snap Shackles
• Wichard Snap Shackles

Classic Ropes

• Classic Control Lines
• Classic Halyards
• Classic Sheets
• Cruising Sheets
• Performance Sheets
• Dinghy Sheets

Sail Handling

• Boom Brakes and Preventers
• Lazy Jack Sail Handling
• Rodkickers, Boomstruts
• Sail Handling Accessories

50 / 100 metre Rates - Running Rigging

• 50 / 100 metres - Cruising Ropes
• 50 / 100 metres - Dinghy Ropes
• 50 / 100 metres - Performance Ropes

Control Lines

• Cruising Control Lines
• Performance Control Lines
• Dinghy Control Lines
• Continuous Control Lines

Running Rigging Accessories

• Anti-Chafe Rope Protection
• Lashing, Lacing and Lanyards
• Mast and Boom Fittings
• Rope Stowage
• Sail Ties and Sail Stowage
• Shock Cord and Fittings
• LIROS Ropes
• Marlow Ropes

Running Rigging Resources

• Running Rigging Rope Fibres and Construction Explained
• How to Select a Suitable Halyard Rope
• How to select Sheets and Guys
• Dyneema Rope - Cruising and Racing Comparison
• Dinghy Rope Selection Guide
• Rope Measurement Information
• Running Rigging - LIROS Recommended Line Diameters
• Running Rigging Break Load Comparison Chart
• Colour Coding for Running Rigging
• Selecting the right type of block, plain, roller or ball bearing
• Recycling Rope
• Running Rigging Glossary

Plain Bearing Blocks

• Barton Blocks
• Harken Element Blocks
• Low Friction Rings
• Selden Yacht Blocks
• Wichard MXEvo Blocks
• Wooden Yacht Blocks

Control Systems

• Ratchet Blocks
• Stanchion Blocks and Fairleads
• Snatch Blocks
• Genoa Car Systems
• Traveller Systems
• Block and Tackle Purchase Systems

Ball Bearing Blocks

• Harken Ball Bearing Blocks
• Selden Ball Bearing Blocks

Roller Bearing Blocks

• Harken Black Magic Blocks
• Selden Roller Bearing Blocks

Deck Fittings

• Bungs and Hatches
• Bushes and Fairleads
• Deck Eyes, Straps and Hooks
• Pad Eyes, U Bolts and Eye Bolts
• Pintles and Gudgeons
• Tiller Extensions and Joints
• Harken Winches, Handles and Accessories
• Barton Winches, Snubbers and Winchers
• Lewmar Winches, Handles and Accessories
• Winch Servicing and Accessories

Clutches and Organisers

• Barton Clutches and Organisers
• Spinlock Clutches and Organisers
• Lewmar Clutches
• Harken Ball Bearing Cam Cleats
• Barton K Cam Cleats

Deck Hardware Support

• Blocks and Pulleys Selection Guide
• Barton High Load Eyes
• Dyneema Low Friction Rings Comparison
• Seldén Block Selection Guide
• Barton Track Selection Guide
• Barton Traveller Systems Selection Guide
• Harken Winch Selection Guide
• Karver Winch Comparison Chart
• Lewmar Winch Selection Guide - PDF
• Winch Servicing Guide

Sailing Flags

• Courtesy Flags
• Red Ensigns
• Blue Ensigns
• Signal Code Flags
• Flag Staffs and Sockets
• Flag Accessories
• Flag Making and Repair
• Webbing only
• Webbing Soft Shackles
• Webbing Restraint Straps
• Webbing Sail Ties
• Sail Sewing
• PROtect Tape

Fixings and Fastenings

• Screws, Bolts, Nuts and Washers
• Monel Rivets

Hatches and Portlights

• Lewmar Hatches
• Lewmar Portlights
• Fids and Tools
• Knives and Scissors

General Chandlery

• Carabiners and Hooks
• Antifouling

Flag Articles

• Flag Size Guide
• Bending and Hoisting Methods for Sailing Flags
• Courtesy Flags Identification, Labelling and Stowage
• Courtesy Flag Map
• Flag Etiquette and Information
• Glossary of Flag Terms and Parts of a Flag
• Making and Repairing Flags
• Signal Code Message Definitions

Other Chandlery Articles

• Anchorplait Splicing Instructions
• Antifoul Coverage Information
• Hawk Wind Indicator Selection Guide
• Petersen Stainless - Upset Forging Information
• Speedy Stitcher Sewing Instructions
• Thimble Dimensions and Compatible Shackles

Jackstays and Jacklines

• Webbing Jackstays
• Stainless Steel Wire Jackstay Lifelines
• Fibre Jackstay Lifelines
• Jackstay and Lifeline Accessories

Lifejackets

• Crewsaver Lifejackets
• Seago Lifejackets
• Spinlock Lifejackets
• Children's Life Jackets
• Buoyancy Aids

Floating Rope

• LIROS Multifilament Polypropylene
• LIROS Yellow Floating Safety Rope

Guard Wires, Guardrails and Guardrail Webbing

Lifejacket accessories.

• Lifejacket Lights
• Lifejacket Rearming Kits
• Lifejacket Spray Hoods
• Safety Lines

Seago Liferafts

• Grab Bag Contents
• Grab Bags and Polybottles
• Liferaft Accessories
• Danbuoy Accessories
• Jimmy Green Danbuoys
• Jonbuoy Danbuoys
• Seago Danbuoys

Overboard Recovery

• Lifebuoy Accessories
• Purchase Systems
• Slings and Throwlines

Safety Accessories

• Fire Safety
• Sea Anchors and Drogues

Safety Resources

• Guard Wires - Inspection and Replacement Guidance
• Guard Wire Stud Terminal Dimensions
• Webbing Jackstays Guidance
• Webbing Jackstays - Custom Build Instructions
• Danbuoy Selection Guide
• Danbuoy Instructions - 3 piece Telescopic - Offshore
• Liferaft Selection Guide
• Liferaft Servicing
• Man Overboard Equipment - World Sailing Compliance
• Marine Safety Information Links
• Safety Marine Equipment List for UK Pleasure Vessels

Sailing Clothing

• Sailing Jackets
• Sailing Trousers
• Thermal Layers

Leisure Wear

• Accessories
• Rain Jackets
• Sweatshirts

Sailing Footwear

• Dinghy Boots and Shoes
• Sailing Wellies

Leisure Footwear

• Walking Shoes

Sailing Accessories

• Sailing Bags and Holdalls
• Sailing Gloves
• Sailing Kneepads

Clothing Clearance

Clothing guide.

• What to wear Sailing
• Helly Hansen Mens Jacket and Pant Size Guide
• Helly Hansen Womens Sailing Jacket and Pant Size Guide
• Lazy Jacks Mens and Womens Size Charts
• Musto Men's and Women's Size Charts
• Old Guys Rule Size Guide
• Sailing Gloves Size Guides
• Weird Fish Clothing Size Charts

The Jimmy Green Clothing Store

Lower Fore St, Beer, East Devon, EX12 3EG

• Adria Bandiere
• Anchor Marine
• Anchor Right
• August Race
• Barton Marine
• Blue Performance
• Brierley Lifting
• Brook International
• Brookes & Adams
• Captain Currey
• Chaineries Limousines
• Coastline Technology
• Colligo Marine
• Cyclops Marine
• Douglas Marine
• Ecoworks Marine
• Exposure OLAS
• Fire Safety Stick
• Fortress Marine Anchors
• Hawk Marine Products
• Helly Hansen
• International
• Jimmy Green Marine
• Maillon Rapide
• Mantus Marine
• Marling Leek
• Meridian Zero
• MF Catenificio
• Ocean Fenders
• Ocean Safety
• Old Guys Rule
• Petersen Stainless
• Polyform Norway
• PSP Marine Tape
• Sidermarine
• Stewart Manufacturing Inc
• Team McLube
• Technical Marine Supplies
• Titan Marine (CMP)
• Ultramarine
• Waterline Design
• William Hackett

Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08

Clearance Folding Stock Anchor £123.25

Clearance Sarca Excel Anchors £294.00

Clearance LIROS Herkules £0.00

Clearance Barton Size 0 Ball Bearing Blocks - 5mm £0.00

Clearance Marlow Blue Ocean® Doublebraid £18.48

Mooring Clearance

Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance, guide to tackling a complete re-rig.

30 Oct 2018

Replacing your Standing Rigging with Jimmy Green Marine

The task of replacing the standing rigging on a sailing yacht may seem daunting but there is a procedure to follow that can make it a relatively straight forward process for anyone who is reasonably practical.

The first decision is whether to tackle the job with the mast up or down.

If you have enough time together with the availability of a mast lift, then mast down is by far the easier option. The whole project will be much easier with the mast horizontal and chocked up on firm ground and accessible to work. You may even elect to carry out the upper mast inspection after lowering the mast to save going aloft in a bosuns chair. You will be able to purchase each wire with swaged terminals at both ends finished and ready to fit. You can order yourself online or with help from the Jimmy Green Rigging Team.

You can take confidence from the fact there is a good deal of adjustment on the rigging screws to allow for any minor errors in measurement. It’s worth noting that Team Jimmy Green set the turnbuckles at 2/3 open unless otherwise requested and undertake to produce the finished wires accurately to within plus or minus the diameter of the wire.

If the mast has to remain stepped, you need a slightly different approach, generally involving the purchase of each wire over long with the top terminal swaged. The bottom end will need to be finished in situ by cutting to the exact length and fitting a DIY swageless (mechanical) terminal. Modern  Swageless terminals from Sta-Lok or Petersen are fairly simple to fit so you can be confident of success.

Rigging Checklist

• Rig Tune and Tension check on existing rigging
• Consider any design or specification alterations
• Close inspection of all components including measuring diameters
• Take photos
• Mark all tension settings (with tape above and/or below the rigging screw)
• Determine any possible improvements
• Order process for mast unstepped
• Order process for mast remaining stepped

Each step is explained more fully below:

1. Rig Tune and Tension check on existing rigging

Begin by checking that your current rigging is set up and tuned correctly. This need not be as technical as it sounds - you just need to be sure that you are copying a rig that works well. The essentials are mast rake and bend, athwartship vertical alignment and correct tensioning. You may want to elicit some professional advice but if your current set up performs satisfactorily upwind and downwind on both tacks/gybes, it may be best not to interfere with the current settings. The aim of the game is to replicate the old rig with a new one within parameters that allow for adjustment and tuning.

Look for extra unnecessary shackles or toggles which may have been added to compensate for the wire being too short and determine whether they can be omitted from the new rig.

2. Consider any design or specification alterations

The next step is to survey all aspects of the rigging including an assessment of whether the existing is the right design and specification for your anticipated purposes e.g Coastal, Offshore or Ocean Cruising, occasional or hard core racing.

3. Close inspection of all components

Carry out a thorough inspection of the rigging including all the wire, terminals and clevis pins. Establish the size of every component and make notes. A good quality pair of callipers is an invaluable investment for producing accurate results.

Once you have confirmed the wire diameter, the approximate length and identified the terminals top and bottom, it is a simple online exercise to get an accurate estimate of the replacement cost on  JimmyGreen.com/standing rigging . Alternatively, Team Jimmy Green can readily produce a costing based on the same information.

4. Take photos

Take photos of everything including zoomed in detail of anything you are not sure about and any others that will serve as a reminder when fitting the new shrouds and stays.

Check for any signs of wear or structural damage and identify the probable cause. Problems can occur for many reasons e.g. misalignment leading to stress at an odd angle, fittings that allow unnecessary movement, lack of articulation due to missing toggles, undersize clevis pins or oversize clevis pin holes. Some of these may be part of the reason that you are replacing the rig so it is best to avoid repeating the issue on the new set up.

There are standard pin and hole diameters that correspond with the thread size of the studs in the turnbuckles. There is a varied choice of stud/turnbuckle sizes on each wire diameter. Components either side of the normal sizing ared enotes as Down Size and Up Size by Petersen Stainless Rigging. Threads are generally UNF or possibly the Metric equivalent. The table below sets out all the relevant sizes for standard, down size and up size components. If your rigging has special non standard characteristics, the Jimmy Green Rigging Team can source bespoke replacements or suggest suitable alternatives.

This chart is a guide only. Please check all dimensions before ordering your rigging.

5. Mark all tension settings

Make a note of all the turnbuckle settings before you disconnect any shrouds or stays by marking them with tape or taking photos. You will need to loosen all the turnbuckles to disconnect them at deck level.

Remember to return them to their noted settings before measuring. The new rigging can then be made to the required length with the optimum adjustment, normally 2/3 open.

6. Determine any possible improvements

One last check to ensure that there isn’t a change of fitting or a tweak in the set up that will make the new rig an improvement on the old one.

7. Order Process for Mast Unstepped.

Dependent on the time factor there are two main options to consider:

Determine the terminals required, measure the wires, make any adjustments and place your order either online or by emailing your requirements for Team Jimmy Green to load the order for you.

N.B. The old wires should be removed from the mast, pulled out taut with a little tension if possible to ensure that they are straight in readiness for measuring.

Measurements are from  bearing edge to bearing edge of the pins or eyes.

For T terminals and studs, refer to our  Standing Rigging Custom Build Instructions .

Label the individual stays. You may need them as an aide memoire when you come to fit the new standing rigging.

Check and double check your measurements and terminal fittings before ordering. Remember the old adage: “Measure twice, cut once”.

Remove the old stays, labelling them carefully as you go and noting any amendments required to length or fittings.

Coil the wires as neatly as possible.

Send them or bring them to Jimmy Green Marine for assessment and a quote.

This option puts the onus on the Jimmy Green Rigging Team to replicate your rigging accurately.

8. Order Process for mast remaining stepped

Establish the length of the existing shrouds and stays.

Order new wires with the required top terminals swaged on and the wire length appropriately over length for cutting and fitting in situ.

Order DIY swageless terminals for the bottom end.

The wire should be long enough so that it can be cut and fitted with the new swageless terminal to finish at the desired length.

N.B. Replacing the forestay will be tricky if it is fitted with a headsail furler and you may need professional help.

Standing Rigging Assistance Shop for Standing Rigging

Related products

Spinlock rig-sense tension gauge, 5mm 1x19 stainless steel wire standing rigging, sta-lok stud, petersen stainless insulators - compression and compression, 100 metre reel - 1x19 stainless steel wire, author: jimmy green, you may also like.

Carrying replacement rigging for emergency use

Keyboard_arrow_left sea anchors and yacht drogues, sheets and halyards selection guide keyboard_arrow_right.

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Beneteau 311, Catalina 310 and Hunter 326 Used Boat Comparison

Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review

Cheoy Lee Clipper 36 & 42 Used Boat Review

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

Working with High-Tech Ropes

Getting a Clue for the Blown-Out Clew

Monel Seizing Wire is Worth the Extra Cost

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate: Part 1

Mastering Precision Drilling: How to Use Drill Guides

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

• Boat Maintenance
• Safety & Seamanship
• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Emergency Rigging Cutters

The new toolova shootit 12 is a no-brainer at the high end-it cuts wire and rod almost like butter. at the low end, the old hacksaw does pretty well, too, given a proper supply of brawn and elbow grease..

Dismasting is right up there among a sailor’s worst nightmares. When a mast comes down at sea, no matter how or why, there’s tremendous potential for further damage. Few things will sink a boat quicker than the end of a mast holing your vessel. Speed is of the essence when such a calamity occurs, and the number-one priority is getting rid of the danger as quickly, and safely, as possible.

In most circumstances on most boats, the quickest and safest way to accomplish this is to remove the clevis pins securing the rigging, either by simply pulling them out (if they aren’t under load) or knocking them out with a drift and hammer. Several things, however, will work against you. First, cotter pins are often badly installed, with the ends left too long and wrapped completely back around the clevis pin. Second, in any sea condition other than a glassy calm, there will be a load on at least some of those pins, sometimes a tremendous load, and it will usually move from terminal to terminal, very quickly, depending on how the boat is rolling and where the remains of the mast are resting. Third, getting your hands and tools into position to work with the terminals is almost always a truly dangerous proposition. Extreme care needs to be taken to ensure that when the rigging is separated from the boat, it doesn’t take a piece of you with it.

If clevis pins can be quickly and safely removed and the mast secured without damaging the boat, consider yourself lucky. Unfortunately, when Murphy is doing his best, it may not be possible or prudent to deal with the pins. At this point your only option is to cut away the rig.

We tested three kinds of emergency cutter, using common sizes of wire cable for standing rigging and halyards, as well Navtec rod rigging in different diameters. (Note that these were tests of cutter types, not different products within those types.) We also tried cutting with the old standby-a hacksaw.

Hacksaw On many, if not most boats, the only suitable tool on board will be a hacksaw. It performs better than we expected, particularly on smaller rod, but there’s no question that it takes the most time and is exhausting, particularly when cutting larger diameter rigging. For example, we took 20 seconds to go through 3/16″ 7×19 wire, 40 seconds to cut 1/4″ 1×19 wire, 25 seconds to cut -4 (0.172″) rod, 70 seconds to cut -40 (0.5″) rod. This is a job for the strongest member of the crew, preferably also the one in best aerobic condition. Adrenaline might speed things up a bit, but exhaustion could slow things down.

We tried a number of blade materials and pitches suitable for metal cutting. Bi-metal blades, while somewhat more expensive, are more resistant to breakage and the only way to go. The coarser, 24 tpi (teeth per inch), pitch was significantly quicker cutting rod than finer, 32 tpi, pitch, which was quicker on cable. We also tried a carbide grit wire “blade.” It proved the quickest initially, but was only good for two or three cuts before becoming ineffective as the carbide bits were worn or torn away.

Cable under tension is not too difficult to cut, both 1×19 and 7×19, but things are trickier when you have to hold the wire to cut it. For us, the last few strands were nearly impossible because it was so difficult to keep them steady while sawing. Linesman pliers or larger side-cutting pliers worked better to quickly cut those last strands in these circumstances.

Muscle Power Swiss made Felco C-16 Cable Cutters are a big step up, both in ease of use and price ($350). These popular cable cutters are generally sold for use only on cable up to 5/8″. Though we have had reports of their use on up to -12 (diameter) rod, the reports all indicate extreme difficulty in use and some damage to the blades after only a single cut. Since we were requested not to damage the tools lent us, if possible, we didn’t test them on rod.

If you’re strong enough, there’s enough leverage with the 22″ long handles that you will be able to cut smaller cable straightaway. However, for most of us and for even modest sized cable, you’ll need to rest one handle against the deck or some other suitable unyielding spot and lean into the other handle with all your weight. The illustration molded into one of the tool’s handles shows the user sitting on one handle to cut a cable.

Using body weight for full effect, the blades quickly severed both of our 1×19 and 7×19 wire. It is irrelevant if the wire is under tension or not,

The Felco cutters have aluminum handles, which keep weight to a manageable 5.4 pounds, with large plastic grips. The blades are high carbon steel and will require suitable protection from the marine environment while in storage. The blades can be sharpened and are replaceable, though we were not able to determine a cost for replacement.

There is no lanyard hole or attachment incorporated in the tool, though something suitable could be jury-rigged, or better, a hole could be drilled at the end of one of the handles.

Any tool used on deck, and particularly any tool you expect to use in emergency conditions, should be tethered to the user to prevent loss.

Felco cutters come with a lifetime limited warranty covering manufacturing defects.

Hydraulic Power Ratcheting up the expense and capability are hydraulic cutters. We tested the Huskie Tools model S-24, commonly offered to the sailing community. For a wallet-emptying $1,200, this tool had best deliver, and it does. The S-24 weighs in at a hefty 9.2 pounds and is 17 inches long overall. Think of this as basically a hydraulic jack with the ram providing 7.2 tons of shearing force, enough to cut -40 rod, the thickest we had to test.

The tool is awkward to handle with all the weight at the forward end. The head pivots opens up to accept the rod or cable, snapping shut with a massive spring-loaded latch to hold it together against the tons of force exerted against it while cutting.

Once the head is closed over the rigging, you pump the smaller handle to shear the cable or rod. Use is self-evident, though care must be taken to ensure the head is indeed latched, and to keep the tool perpendicular to whatever is being cut. A lever on the side is depressed to release the cutter for the next cutting effort.

Actually operating the pump handle requires relatively little effort, though it does take noticeable effort for larger rod. In any case, most any crewmember should be able to do the job. The rubber grips provide a secure handhold.

With the exception of the shearing blade and the ram, the unit is painted, but it’s not stainless and will require careful storage to prevent corrosion. A soft nylon carry case is included and a spare shearing head is hidden in the handle. This replaceable shearing head is held in place with a threaded through-pin with slotted heads. Changing it out is easy, but not something you’d want to do where that pin could be easily lost.

Since it’s a hydraulic mechanism with seals subject to deterioration, it should be exercised regularly to ensure it will work when needed.

The hydraulic unit can be rebuilt and the shearing surfaces “sharpened.” There’ s no provision to attach a tether; the best you’re likely to be able to do is to tie one around the primary handle.

Husky provides a five-year limited warranty.

Gunpowder Power An innovative and unique purpose-built tool just introduced in the U.S. is the German-built Toolova Shootit 12. This is known technically as a Powder Actuated Tool (PAT), one that is powered from a “load,” which looks for all the world like a small caliber firearm cartridge. At first glance, you might think it was a .22 caliber rimfire blank cartridge, but it’s actually .27 caliber. Unlike a typical blank, the casing is crimped closed on the end and then sealed. There’s no wad.

Firing the load ignites the gunpowder, and the explosion drives a piston that actually does the work. Anyone who has used a powder-actuated fastener tool to set a nail in concrete will be familiar with the basic principle.

Instead of firing fasteners out the end, the piston acts as a shear against an anvil integrated into the forward end of the tool, cutting whatever wire or rod has been placed in the slot between the piston and the anvil.

The Toolova proved extremely effective, instantly severing all the cable and rod up to -22 (0.375″). The -40 rod was too big for the slot.

The Toolova’s importers, Euro-Marine Trading, were kind enough to loan us the first tool brought into the US, even before they’d had a chance to try it out themselves. Somewhere in the process we missed the instructions that it was meant just for cable. Could have fooled us.

Later we were told that the tool for sale had been upgraded with a tougher anvil material to allow for cutting rod up to 0.375 inches, which performance we can verify. The harder material provides greater safety margins, but there’s no visible or operational difference.

The body of the tool is constructed of “high-tensile steel,” to provide the strength required, and is nickel-chrome plated. Smaller parts are stainless or powder-coated for the most part, but we found a few bits and pieces of plain steel, some with a simple black coating, not the best choice for a marine environment. We experienced a problem with the body coming loose and unscrewing after a number of operations. We are told this problem would be addressed.

The loads come in quantities of 10, held together in a plastic strip. The loads are coated with lacquer and in our testing they survived three days immersed in a bucket and functioned properly immediately upon removal. As an aside, it’s interesting to note that powder-actuated tools were first developed for shipbuilding operations that required fasteners to be installed underwater in some situations.

We found the 13-1/4″ long, 6-lb, $585 Shootit 12 somewhat awkward to use. Unlike most PATs designed to use such strip loads, this is not a semi-automatic, or even pump-operated mechanism. The single shot design requires the breech to be unlocked and opened, and the strip manually moved to the next load before closing and locking the breech. It sounds worse than it is, but it’s also much worse than it needs to be, based on other PATs we’ve used. With a little practice, it can be accomplished in a matter of seconds, but there’s plenty of room for error and even injury in the process.

The cocking and firing mechanism is also a bit cumbersome. A large hand guard that also serves as a safety mechanism is rotated counter-clockwise, after which the plunger-style cocking handle can be pulled out against a stiff spring. The spring-loaded firing lever slips into a slot to hold the firing pin back. It is designed such that if the cocking handle is released prematurely (and the spring is strong enough that this may occur) the aft end of the firing lever prevents the firing pin from making contact with the load. Unfortunately, it’s possible to inadvertently squeeze the firing lever while cocking the tool, which defeats this safety feature.

Once cocked, firing the tool is accomplished by simply depressing the firing lever once the rotating safety is in the off position. Because of the weight and unwieldiness of the tool, our natural inclination was to operate it two-handed, one holding the tool, the other squeezing the trigger. We found it very easy to hold the tool in a way that the cocking handle caught the palm of our hand as it was fired, causing a misfire.

Later, during discussions with the importer, we were advised that this design was settled upon to allow one-handed operation, with the obvious significant benefit that the other hand remains available to hold on to the boat.

Grasping the barrel between the hand guards with one hand, the trigger lever down, you can operate the trigger lever using your pinky finger. Unfortunately, the design of the rear hand guard-cum-safety doesn’t lend itself to operation with one hand, somewhat defeating the advantage of the design concept and compromising safety.

Nowhere in the instructions we received is one-handed operation illustrated, though a brochure we were given later does make mention of this capability. We found the provided rudimentary instructions inadequate because of this and other failings.

These are all problems that would be eliminated if a conventional pistol- style handgrip and trigger system were used. That would make the tool far easier to use one-handed, in our opinion. We are told that such a design was tried, but the existing design was the one best liked by testers. The manufacturer’s explanation to us regarding tool balance to the contrary, in our opinion nothing inherently prevents a pistol grip design from being utilized and producing a well-balanced tool with functional and safety advantages.

The load is surprisingly quiet when it goes off, and there’s no recoil to speak of because of the tools weight. There’s a 5/16″ hole in the front hand guard that can be used to attach a tether.

The tool comes with two strips of loads, 20 shots; additional strips are $10 each. Safety goggles are provided and the instructions advise the use of safety goggles and gloves during use. We can easily imagine many situations where wearing such goggles would be impractical, considering the circumstances when the tool may be called upon. It’s an imperfect world, and sometimes the legal department’s best efforts go for naught.

The Shootit 12 comes with a two-year limited warranty and a mandatory two-year repetitive inspection interval, to be performed by the manufacturer. The cost of this inspection has not yet been established.

Alternatives We also tested some alternatives to see if other avenues might be worth pursuing. It was recommended by one rigging expert that we try a metal cut-off disk. We borrowed a 14.4-volt battery-operated power saw from Makita, but the 1000-RPM it produced wasn’t enough for the disk to work. The same size metal-cutting disc fitted to a 120-volt die grinder made quick work of rod, cutting through -22 rod in just 15 seconds.

A cordless 12-volt drill with the same size disc required 70 seconds to slice through-17 rod. With no safety devices, that naked cutting disk probably isn’t a great choice on deck, even if someone eventually produces a cordless tool with the oomph of a die grinder (we couldnt find one in our tool search).

A battery-powered Dremel Tool with a cutting disk lacked the power to cut through anything but the thinnest rod, and even that took more time than a hacksaw. We also tried a reciprocating saw with various blades, expecting it would at least equal the hacksaw, but with less effort. It proved remarkably useless. None of the brand- name reciprocating blades we tried lasted long, the material obviously wasn’t up to the steel used in the rod.

Conclusions Ergonomics, safety, and other issues aside (because everything is a compromise), the Shootit 12 is the easy choice for best emergency rigging cutter. Despite what we consider a relatively awkward design, it produced the quickest results with the least effort at a cost that, if not inexpensive, is less than half the hydraulic cutters.

The tool came to us in a fitted lightweight plastic case that was already cracked and broken, and whose latches broke immediately after we received it. It certainly needs and deserves something better for storage. A tough, waterproof Pelican-style case would be ideal.

Instructions need to be substantially improved-both the operation and safety aspects. In fact, an instructional video covering both use and safety might be the best plan. If you buy a Shootit 12, take to heart the company’s recommendation to practice first before having to use the tool in an emergency. There are too many safety and functional idiosyncrasies to expect anyone to be able to grab it and use it effectively in an emergency. Any of the crew that could potentially use the tool should be included in such training. In fact, that goes for any type of cutter.

The hydraulic cutters have met their match in the Shootit 12. We can’t see any reason to spend as much as twice the money for something that isn’t as easy or quick to use, unless you have rod rigging so large that the Shootit 12 won’t work.

For wire rigging the Swiss-made Felco cable cutters are effective and affordable, though they’re not easy to use. The larger the wire, the more difficult it will get.

There are compounding mechanisms that make tools of this general type easier to use and more efficient, at the cost of simplicity.

Whatever cutting device you decide on, keep familiar with it.

Thanks to Landfall Navigation of Greenwich, CT for providing our evaluation tools, including the Shootit 12 that Euro Marine Trading (Shootit 12 distributor for the U.S. and Canada) made available even before they had an opportunity to test it themselves.

Contacts- Euro Marine Trading (Toolova Shootit 12), 62 Halsey St., Unit M, Newport, RI 02840, 401/849-0060; www.euromarinetrading.com . Landfall Navigation, 354 W. Putnam Ave., Greenwich, CT 06830; 800/941-2219; www.landfallnavigation.com . Felco SA Mlzes 4, CH-2206, Les Geneveys-sur-Coffrane, Switzerland; 41 32 858 14 66; www.felco.ch/en/monde.asp . Huskie Tools, Inc., 198 Brandon Dr., Glendale Heights, IL 60139; 630/893-7755; www.huskietools.com .

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Responding to Emergencies: A Skipper’s Guide for Staying Calm

Thank you for this article. A few images/graphics would have been helpful.

There are well reviewed Chinese made hydraulic cutters on Amazon for ~$200.

LEAVE A REPLY Cancel reply

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

The Perfect Family Sailboat! Hunter 27-2 – Boat Review

Pettit EZ-Poxy – How to Paint a Boat

The Boat From True Spirit – Sparkman & Stephens

Top 5 Boat Hacks – Boat Maintenance Tips and Tricks

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: da98f023-5f7c-11ef-ba39-f324eee7c1e9

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

• Join Newsletter & Get 10% Off Your First Order

Join / Login

Rigging tools.

Sawing tools are essential for cutting various materials in model making. Sawing tools are indispensable for precise and controlled cutting in model making projects. These tools enable hobbyists to make intricate cuts, navigate tight corners, and achieve accurate shapes and sizes in various materials. Modelers Central has a great range of sawing tools & blades for building wooden model ships & model trains in their range of modeling tools.

Filter Products

Showing all 5 results

Rigging Wax – Clear – 20g tub

Rigging Wax – Black – 20g tub

Rigging Tool – Hook Ends

Loom-A-Line Rigging Stand

Rigging Tool

Join 18,543 other modelers to hear about specials, new products and modeling tips

• Become a Member
• Modeling Hub
• Model Ship Building
• Maritime History
• Affiliate Program

Information

• Terms & Conditions
• Privacy Policy

Copyright © 2023 Modelers Central. ABN: 31 114 830 732

• Claim 10% Off First Order
• Get 5% off ALL orders with a Membership
• Gift Vouchers
• Help & Advice

Modelers Central. 2023, All rights reserved.

• Claim 10% Off Your First Order
• Get 5% Off All Orders With A Membership

Get 10% off

Your first order.

10% off applies only to full-price items. By providing your email address, you agree to our Terms & Privacy Policy

Top Things To Do In Irkutsk, Russia

• Post author: Hasan Mahmud
• Post published: July 4, 2016
• Post category: EUROPE / Russia
• Post comments: 0 Comments

Irkutsk is the most popular stop for Trans – Siberian travelers. In this fascinating city, which was once known as the “Paris of Siberia,” you will find people relatively more friendly and relaxed than those in Moscow and other major cities on the west. The city is relatively small, laid back, and most of the points of interest are easily walkable. Along many of the streets, you can see historical cozy – looking log cabins with decorated windows with detailed woodwork, which is typical Siberian architecture. Irkutsk is conveniently located about an hour away (by car or bus) from the southern shores of Lake Baikal – the oldest and deepest freshwater lake on our planet.

How We Got There

Even though a journey on the Trans-Siberian Express # 002 is the longest train ride in the world but for us, it’s only 48 hours from Yekaterinburg to Irkutsk. 

Our Itinerary By Trans Siberian

By Air An Alternet Option

There are a couple of major airlines flying to Irkutsk International Airport (IKT) such as S7, Aeroflot, China Southern, Korean Air, Uzbekistan Airways, and more. Check out Priceline.com or CheapOair.com for a bargain.

The airport is about 5 miles (7 km) from the Irkutsk Angara hotel and about 40 miles (64 km) from Listavyanka or Lake Baikal. There are many taxies available at the airport; all you need to do is negotiate the price. You can also use Uber or Yandex taxi if you have their app and access to wifi.

Top Things To Do In Irkutsk

The traditional siberian wooden homes.

You can spend an entire afternoon walking the streets of Irkutsk and not come across two homes that are alike. This city is comprised almost entirely of old, traditional Siberian houses, and each one is entirely unique. They often have bright, carved shutters that contrast sharply with the dark wooden exterior. Something unique.

Visit The Bogoyavlensky Cathedral

The Bogoyavlensky Cathedral the main cathedral of the Irkutsk diocese is The Bogoyavlensky Cathedral is the main cathedral of the Irkutsk, it is located right next to the Angara River. Initially built in 1693, our of wood, but a devastating fire destroyed it. In the early 18th century, instead of a small wooden church that existed, they built a great stone Orthodox Cathedral.

The beautiful exterior of the Bogoyavlensky Cathedral is impressive, it has red brick exterior walls decorated with old Russian designs with many extravagant elements.

Guided Tour In Irkutsk

There are guided tours available in Irkutsk, they usually combine sightseeing, lunch and a few sightseeing stops on the way.  Get Your Guide  is the one I recommend.

Visit The Spasskaya Church

This beautiful church is the oldest stone building in Irkutsk, not far from Bogoyavlensky Cathedral and the famous Angara River. It was built in 1710 and the stone church because of the fortress wall that defended Irkutsk from the raids.

Check Out Huge Kirov Square

The The Kirov Squire is located just in front of our hotel (Angara Hotel) we were staying within the boundaries of Lelin, Zhelyabov and Sukhe-Batora streets. It is the center of many major events, such as the Victory Day parade and New Year celebrations. Nice place to visit while you are in Irkutsk.

The Monument to the founders of Irkutsk

It was unveiled on the 350 anniversary of Irkutsk in 2011. The monument is located on the banks of the River Angara, near the Cathedral of the Epiphany. The bronze monument represents a generalized character of Cossack – a pioneer of Siberia.

Tsar Alexander the third

The statue of Alexander III located right on the waterfront promenade by the Angara River a beautiful place to visit on your way to Listvayanka.

Our Lady of Kazan

Kazan Church (Barrikad St., 34) could absolutely be the highlight of your time in Irkutsk. The people refer to it as the ‘Red Church’, noting the beautiful color of its walls. The foundation for this stone building was laid in 1835, and the construction took 57 years. The church, opened on Easter 1892, is magnificent.

130 Quarter (Kvartal)

Must see the place in Irkutsk one of the famous tourist destinations. The This is a must-see the place in Irkutsk, one of the famous tourist destinations. The historical quarter is located in the center of Irkutsk, at the intersection of Kozhov, Sedovand 3rd Lyulya streets. Easily accessible by public transportation such as a bus. This historical place got Museums, souvenir shops, cafes, restaurants, hotels and a mall all coexist in peach behind old walls. Old historical buildings and lovely sculptures surround those buildings are beautiful, a great please for spending an evening there.

Check Out Znamensky Monastery

Znamensky Monastery is one of the most famous places of worship in Irkutsk. It was like ay other old Russian church but was interesting to see. Nice stopover if you are interested to see a typical monastery and nice paintings.

Beautiful Prince Vladimir Temple

This monastery was founded in 1888 in honor of the 900th. Anniversary of the Christianization of Russia. Like any other place of worship in Irkutsk was built with private funds. A great place to visit based on your priority.

Visit Taltsy Museum

The open-air museum displays the lifestyle and typical architecture, mostly wooden houses of Siberia. Taltsy Museum is located on the bank of Angora river, about 29 miles (47 km) south of Irkutsk. Since this is on the way to Listvyanka. Therefore, many tourists add this spot as part of their Listvyanka and Lake Baikal trip. We took a guided tour and pact with a lot of activities, including a stop to Taltsy, Port Baikal, boat ride in Lake Baikal, Shaman Stone, Listvyanka, cable car to Chesky Stone Hill Lookout, Listvyanka market and a visit to St. Nicholas church.

Day Trip to Listvyanka & Port Baikal

Listvyanka is an urban locality in Irkutsk District of Irkutsk Oblast, Russia, located 70 kilometers south of Irkutsk, near the point where the Angara River meets Lake Baikal. The village of wooden houses beside Lake Baikal is the most popular tourist destination on the lake. The village is easily accessible by bus, minivans, and even ferries from Irkutsk city.

It is doable as a day trip from Irkutsk, or many stay there a day or two. There are so many things to do that will definitely not disappoint you. We enjoyed a speed boat ride in the lake later, visited the shaman stone in the middle of the Angara River, where it meets Baikal lake, toured a village market, and had some delicious smoked Amul fish a fresh catch right out of the lake. We took a ferry to Port Baikal and walked for miles following the famous Circum-Baikal train track. In the afternoon, At the end of our day trip, we took a cable car to the Chesky Stone Hilltop and watched one of the magnificent sunsets of all time from the lookout. The memories I gathered is priceless.

Ride The Circum-Baikal Train

One of the best picturesque day trips from Irkutsk is by taking the historic Circum-Baikal railway that runs from Slyudyanka to Port Baikal. The rail route is about 52 miles (84 km), and it takes about 5 hours by Circum-Baikal railway.

To get to Slyudyanka the starting point of the historic Circus-Baikal train trip you may need to get 2+ hours of a taxi or train journey from Irkutsk that’s another 68 miles (110 km) to cover.

Once you are at the end of your Circus-Baikal train trip at Port Baikal, you need to get the last ferry to get to Listvyanka, then an option to stay overnight at the beautiful lake side town or go back to Irkutsk.

Try Local Food in Irkutsk

Clermont restaurant, polskikh povstancev st., 1, irkutsk.

Just a few minutes’ walk from Angora Hotel. We, in fact, liked the food we ordered. All we wanted to eat was salad, fish, and pelmeni. So we got Omul Fish soup, smoked Omul, and of course, Pelmeni and the traditional Russian salad was delicious.

Kochevnik, Gorkogo St., 19, Irkutsk

This is an excellent restaurant serving mainly delicious Mongolian food. Only about 7 minutes’ walk from the Angara hotel. It is one of the most loved restaurants by locals and tourists alike. Most of the food is delicious, and I would definitely recommend this restaurant. You will not be disappointed.

Where Did I Stay in Irkutsk

Angara Hotel, Sukhe-Bator Street 7, Irkutsk

This hotel is at Kirov square, this downtown hotel is a 9-minute walk from a tram stop, a 6-minute walk from the landmark Cathedral of the Epiphany and 3.1 km from regional art at the V.P.Sukachev manor museum. The famous Angara river is just a few blocks away.

Apartament on Marata 31, 31 ulitsa Marata, Irkutsk

If you are looking for a more extended stay or just to experience your trip from a different perspective, then I would suggest booking an apartment. The apartment on Marata 31 is a great option, with 1 bedroom, an equipped kitchen, with microwave, fridge, washing machine, and a stove. You can even rent a bicycle from them.

My Opinion and Last Word

Have you been to irkutsk, russia any cool tips to share.

I loved being in Irkutsk Oblast and want to go back again. I hope my story has motivated you to  plan your visit . 

Please leave a comment below! I would love to hear from you to improve my knowledge. 

Was this travel guide helpful for you?

If you would like to help me continue making free guides, here is one way you can help:

• Share This Guide  – If you have a friend that would benefit from this guide, share it with them. Or post this guide on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram.

Your support would definitely help me making more free guides like this. Thank you in advance!

Affiliate Link  – This post in  Dizzy Traveler  contains affiliate links, which means I receive a referral commission if you purchase after clicking at  no additional cost to you . These funds go to maintain the site. Thank you for your support.

Please Share This Share this content

• Opens in a new window

Hasan Mahmud

You might also like.

10 Best Things To Do in Tallinn, Estonia

Kotor, Things to Do in Montenegro’s​ Magical City

Skopje Macedonia’s capital: Best Things To See And Do

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Create an account

Reset password, hotel finder, item added to your cart.

0 items in the cart ( $ 0.00 )