rolex yacht master

• Skip to content
• Skip to footer

• Français

Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40

Related content

Oyster Perpetual Air-King

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40

Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42

Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31

The Watch Of The Open Seas: History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

Instagram: @rolex

In the year 1992, Swiss watchmaker Rolex would debut a new model line at the Baselworld show that was strikingly similar to the already-popular Submariner. It featured the same 40mm Oyster case with a rotating bezel, the same chronometer-certified caliber, and the same Oyster bracelet.

Seemingly the only difference between the two was the white dial of that first Yacht-Master, a style which has never been an option on a Sub, and the inferior depth rating of 100m when compared to the Sub’s 300m.

Yet, the Yacht-Master was well-received upon launch, and with the passing of time, the yachting-inspired model has evolved and pioneered its own path within Rolex’s catalog.

Read on with us as we go back to the beginning and track the catalysts that paved the way for the most recent Yacht-Master release, the Yacht-Master 42 (226659), to become one of the hottest sports timepieces of the year.

History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

We’ve broken down our overview of the Yacht-Master into the following segments:

• Release Of The Yacht-Master

The Submariner/Yacht-Master Theory

• Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master
• Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The Maxi Dial Yacht-Master

• Two-Tone Rolesor Yacht-Master

The Yacht-Master II

• Six-Digit Yacht-Master

The Oysterflex Yacht-Master

Keep scrolling to read this guide from its beginning, or use the links above to jump down to a specific point.

Browse Bob’s Watches Rolex Catalogue

The Release Of The Yacht-Master

The first Yacht-Master watch was launched in 1992 under reference number 16628. It featured a yellow gold case, a bidirectional graduated bezel, and a matching full-gold Oyster bracelet. Its dial was white with black hour indices, while at center were gold Mercedes hands, and beating inside was the 3135 movement.

Rolex ref. 16628. Instagram: @m_j_watches

Previous to the Yacht-Master’s introduction, Rolex had not released a new model line in a quarter century. So, why did they go with the Yacht-Master, a design that risked being a detractor from their existing Submariner? Let’s take a look at the inspiration.

The sport of yachting is one which demands precise timing and extreme coordination of the entire crew for optimal performance, particularly in offshore competitions.

Prototype Daytona Yacht-Master ref. 6239. Image: Christies.com

Rolex believed their waterproof and chronometer-grade timepieces to be more than qualified to handle the knocks of a regatta and keep ticking accurately. The brand is also notorious for their marketing prowess, which led them to act quickly in establishing an association with the sport.

Beginning in 1958 with their first sponsorship of a race, the relationship has endured until today, when the brand sponsors over a dozen international yachting events.

Nevertheless, it’s hard to deny that there exists a large gap between first contact in 1958 and the release of the yacht-inspired timepiece in the early ’90s. Why wasn’t the Yacht-Master released earlier on?

Well, Rolex played around with the idea of yachting chronograph early on, though it never materialized. All that’s left of these trials are an extremely limited number of Daytona ref. 6239 chronograph prototypes with a 39mm case (vs standard 36mm) and modified regatta dials.

Unfortunately, the Yacht-Master concept was scrapped and would not reappear until decades later.

When it did return, none of the previous Yacht-Master’s DNA was there. Furthermore, the 1992 Yacht-Master was bizarrely similar to the 16610 Sub of the time.

Interestingly enough, Rolex folklore tells of a time in the ’80s when the brand sought to update their Submariner . What resulted was less of an update and more of an overhaul, manifested as what we know now as the first Yacht-Master.

Apprehensive of the repercussions that making such aggressive design changes to their staple offering could bring, the brand chose instead to release the watch intended to be a new Submariner as the reborn Yacht-Master instead.

The move worked, and the new Yacht-Masters started flying off the shelves. The Yacht-Master was perceived as a more luxurious Sub, though its bidirectional bezel proved useful for on-the-fly countdowns which are critical in sailing competitions. The waterproof nature of the Oyster case further cemented the Yacht-Master as the ideal first mate.

Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master

In 1994, just two years after the debut of the 16628, Rolex would introduce the same design but in smaller case sizes. These were:

• Ref. 68628: Yacht-Master “Mid-Size” in 35mm
• Ref. 69628: Yacht-Master Ladies’ in 29mm

This marked the first time that Rolex ever offered one of their sports models in a smaller case size; all previous instances of case size changes were increases as opposed to reductions. It has been speculated that the smaller cases were intended for the Asian market.

Yacht-Master ref. 16628. Instagram: @thewatchcentre

In the same year, Rolex also offered the same 16628 but this time with a deep blue dial. Blue dials tend to make for broadly-liked watches, and coupled with the gold case and bracelet, the new version was once again a hit.

The Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The next update to the model line would come in 1999 with yet another home-run: the Rolesium Yacht-Master. The new watch featured a stainless steel case and bracelet with a platinum dial and platinum-insert bezel. Rolesium, a term registered by Rolex back in the ’30s for a combination of steel and platinum in a watch, was finally put to use.

The new platinum Yacht-Master ref. 16622 was not only more accessible than the previous all-gold varieties, it was also more versatile. This would lead the 16622 variety to become the face of the Yacht-Master line.

In fact, many online resources erroneously label it the first Yacht-Master ever; this should offer an idea of how emblematic it is in the watch industry.

The 16622 also presented a new dial and hand style that would mark Rolex as a whole through to the modern day. The new Yacht-Master boasted what is now recognized as the “maxi dial”.

Rolex Yacht-Master 16628 w/ maxi dial. Instagram: @kellokonttori

The maxi dial is characterized by oversized hour indices as well as larger hands at center. To the untrained eye, the difference may be difficult to spot, though experienced collectors will note the change instantly.

The maxi dial became the style of choice for all modern Rolex sports watches, though it got its start in the 1999 platinum Yacht-Master. A Submariner would first feature a maxi dial in 2003, with the release of the 50th anniversary Rolex Submariner “Kermit” (16610LV).

All versions of the Yacht-Master produced after the introduction of the maxi dial would also feature the new dial design. This included the blue, gold, and white dial versions from years past.

The Two-Tone (Rolesor) Yacht-Master

Six years after the Rolesium Yacht-Master came to be, Rolex would once more put on display their mixed-metal Rolesor style in the two-tone Yacht-Master 16623.

Yacht-Master ref. 16623. Instagram: @v.davidofftimepieces

The 2005 debuts possessed a 40mm steel case, a yellow gold bidirectional bezel, and a two-tone Oyster bracelet. As far as dials, many of the previous styles were also available like the black-on-white, though mother of pearl version were also introduced.

It was during Baselworld 2007 when Rolex would introduce the Yacht-Master’s younger and much larger sibling, the Yacht-Master II. Whereas the original Yacht-Master was very close functionally to the Sub, the Yacht-Master II was completely the opposite.

It can be said that the only overlap between the YM and the YMII is be the name, as the second iteration looks like a whole new watch. This time, though, it’s clear that the watch has been designed with the needs of yachting professionals in mind.

The first Yacht-Master II were marked by a 44mm Oyster case, an Oyster bracelet, a white dial,  and a blue Cerachrom (ceramic) Ring Command bezel. The first two references, 116688 and 116689, were made of yellow gold and white gold, respectively.

Powering the YMII was another innovation – Rolex’s in-house calibre 4161. It features the COSC-chronometer certification and 72-hour power reserve that are today’s standard, though they were industry-leading at the time. Most notable, though, was the 4161 movement’s functions.

The new caliber boasted a “ programmable countdown with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronization. ” Naturally, the programming of the movement required the use of the Ring Command bezel, a feature which had also never been encountered on a Rolex watch before.

In later years, Rolex would go on to release Rolesor and full-steel versions of the Yacht-Master II, both of which have been relatively successful. The Yacht-Master II has certainly earned a spot in the brand’s catalog, and is sure to stick around for next couple of decades.

The Six-Digit Yacht-Master

Yacht-Master 116622

Twenty years after it debuted as the 16628, the Yacht-Master would see in 2012 the modernization that had been sweeping Rolex’s other model families.

Aside from receiving a new six-digit reference number (116622), subtle aesthetic changes were also present, as was an outstanding new dial option – the Cobalt Blue dial.

The case was now a “super case”, which retained the 40mm diameter but was styled differently. The bezel was now completely platinum, where previous versions were made of steel with a platinum insert. The Oyster bracelet had likewise been upgraded.

A platinum bezel / platinum dial option was still part of the collection and therefore received the same upgrades. Unfortunately, this iconic “albino” look would be completely discontinued in 2017.

The subsequent and most recent significant change to the Yacht-Master family took place in 2015, when Rolex first introduced the Everose Yacht-Master 40 ref. 116655.

Rolex Everose Yacht-Master on Oysterflex bracelet

The newest iteration of the YM possessed some new features. The case was made of Everose, and the bezel now boasted a black Cerachrom insert. Securing the watch to the wrist was another Rolex first – the Oysterflex rubber ‘bracelet’.

Before the 116655, no Rolex watch had ever sported a rubber band. The brand still refers to it as a bracelet given the metal elements within the band, but these are not obvious even with the watch in the hand.

This same style of Yacht-Master would receive the next update in 2019, when Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master 42 in white gold.

What’s Next?

With the recent changes that the Yacht-Master line has had, it is clear that Rolex intends to keep this model family alive and well for years to come. Consumers are likewise responding to each new release, offering plenty of feedback with their pocketbooks.

If you’d like to read up on any of Rolex’s other model families, make sure to check out some of our extensive watch guides below:

• History Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
• Overview Of The Most Luxurious Pilot’s Watch: The GMT-Master
• How Did The Day-Date Become The President’s Watch?
• Review Of Rolex’s Longest Running Watch Model
• Rolex Watches That Could Become The Investment Of A Lifetime

"I have always been a fan of the Yacht-Master, but I had no idea that it didn't exist until the 1990s. Thanks for the information, and thanks for keeping it entertaining. Well done!"

Watch Content

Leave A Comment Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

sample questions for research paper defense

• business plan
• course work
• research paper

Shop New Arrivals

Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner Date Review

In our latest head-to-head (spoiler: you can’t really make a wrong decision), we’re pitting two nautically-themed titans against each other: one perhaps the most famous Rolex of them all, the other heading towards future classic status.

The Rolex Submariner has been the world’s favorite dive watch for generations now, arriving way back in 1953 and gaining immortality as James Bond’s original gadget of choice. An unqualified success whether in its civilian or military role, the Submariner range split in the 1960s into a date and non-date version – the former going on to be released in a variety of precious metal configurations, alongside the ubiquitous stainless steel models.

As for the Rolex Yacht Master, its roots are very much intertwined with the Submariner. It is believed that during the 80s, Rolex made the decision to completely revamp the all-conquering dive watch, for reasons they alone know. Fortunately, changing the design of their most popular model finally struck someone as a bad idea and the plans were abandoned. However, the work the designers had already carried out was deemed too good to shelve, and it was decided to release it as a separate entity – a more luxurious take on the classic. The Yacht-Master entered the scene in 1992, and would go on to become the first sports watch from Rolex to be released in three sizes – a ladies 29mm, a mid-size 35mm, and the full-size 40mm.

Since its release, the Yacht-Master has developed into one of the most aesthetically varied ranges within the Professional Collection lineup. Due to the wide range of materials and styles, we are going to compare two examples from each series that are as closely matched as possible; the ref. 116610LN Submariner Date and the ref. 126622 Yacht-Master 40.  Prices:  the base model Yacht-Master Reference 126622 has a current retail price of $11,800 USD and the base model Submariner 116610 has a retail price of $8,550 as of 2019.

Rolex Yacht-Master vs. Submariner: The Case

When initially released, the Yacht-Master was an entirely precious metal watch, the original run comprising only of yellow gold pieces. Since then, models in Everose with Cerachrom bezels appeared, as well as a number in Rolesor (Rolex’s own name for a combination of steel and gold). However, along with the more traditional two-tone steel and gold variations, the Yacht-Master also introduced what is known as Rolesium – the brand’s combination of a stainless steel case with a platinum bezel.

The ref. 126622 arrived this year, sporting an updated movement from 2016’s ref. 116622. At 40mm, it is technically the same size as our competing Sub; however, underlining its more opulent bearing, it has retained the gracefully sweeping profile that is more commonly seen on earlier Rolex watches. The Submariner has adopted the beefed-up, angular lugs and crown guards of the Super Case, lending to far more presence on the wrist, and splitting the odd opinion or two.

Even so, there is no getting away from the fact that the two look very similar. The YachtMaster is perhaps the more sleek and showy; the Submariner, by comparison, a rather low-key, everyday choice. One other thing you will likely notice from trying on both – it has a thinner and flatter caseback, making it a more comfortable wear in many people’s eyes. It is due to it only needing 100m of water resistance, whereas the Submariner’s 300m depth dating calls for more bulk.

The defining element of many of Rolex’s tool watches, the bezel on the contemporary Submariner has been forged from Cerachrom, an insanely tough ceramic alloy that is resistant to scratching and fading. In keeping with diving timepiece standards, the bezel insert is marked for 60 minutes, with hash marks for the first 15, and it is unidirectional (only turns one way, a crucial safety feature).

With the Yacht-Master, its bezel rotates in both directions and is made from the most luxurious of all precious metals: solid 950 platinum. Like the Sub, it also shows 60 minute gradations, but they are embossed – raised from the surface rather than engraved. The Yacht-Master’s bezel has a much softer action than the Submariner’s, which revolves with 120 well-defined clicks.

And the final thing that made its introduction with the Yacht-Master; it was the first model to adopt Rolex’s Maxi dial. The larger indexes and fatter hands have been as controversial as the Super Case, but there’s no doubting it makes the face more legible. The ref. 126622 comes with a choice of two dials; in dark rhodium and sunburst blue.

Because the platinum and steel in the watch’s makeup are both white metals, the rhodium dial provides a head-to-toe monochromatic look, broken up only by the bright turquoise on the seconds hand and single line of text. Alternatively, the blue has a real eye-catching contrast and is becoming a hot favorite, especially with its sparingly used bright red detailing on the seconds hand and ‘Yacht-Master’ name.

The Submariner ref. 116610LN is finished with the classic black dial that we all know and love – as you would hope on such a traditional watch. Coupled with the clean white markers and handset, it makes for perfect legibility, whether underwater or sitting at your desk.

The Movements

Until this year, both watches were powered by the same movement – the incredible workhorse that is the Cal. 3135. It is the engine which has been driving the Submariner since 1988, and it is still the one inside the current ref. 116610LN that Rolex sells today. 30-years old or not though, it is a formidable mechanism, accurate to within -2/+2 seconds a day, and fitted with some of the latest in cutting-edge components, such as Rolex’s siogniture Blue Parachrom hairspring.

Rolex unveiled the Yacht-Master 126622 at the most recent Baselworld, ostensibly the same as the old watch except for an updated movement: the Caliber 3235. Representing the next generation of Rolex’s in-house, date-displaying movements, the Cal. 3235 has been fitted with an all-new escapement (called the Chronergy) which is reportedly 15% more efficient than before and offers an improved 70-hour power reserve. Obviously the way Rolex are going with their movements, it is only a matter of time before the Submariner is given the same.

Although clearly cut from the same cloth, there is nevertheless a world of difference between the Rolex Yacht-Master and the Submariner. The Sub these days is the more understated choice. Its brushed surfaces and strict black and white palette don’t shout for attention, yet it’s still brawny enough to get noticed.

The Yacht-Master has always been unapologetically opulent, without the same tool watch origins as the Sub. Of the pair, it is the one more likely to get the looks, its slimmer lines with polished lugs and center links making it the dressy option.

But, as we said at the beginning when choosing between a Rolex Yacht-Master and a Submariner there really is no wrong choice!

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

Bob's Watches Blog Updates

Sign up and be the first to read exclusive articles and the latest horological news.

Bob's Watches / Rolex Blog / Watch Review

Recommended Articles

Vintage Watch Reviews Under $30k: The Rolex Explorer Reference 1016

Rolex Oysterdate Precision 6694 Ultimate Buying Guide

Dawn Patrol: Cruising With the Rolex Deepsea in the New Rolls-Royce

You may also like.

Tudor Black Bay

Tudor Black Bay Pro Stainless Steel

Rolex GMT-Master

Vintage Rolex GMT-Master 1675 Black Nipple Dial

Rolex Explorer

Rolex Explorer 14270 Steel Oyster Band

GMT-Master II

Witnesses to history

Exceptional timepieces

The GMT-Master and GMT-Master II owe their iconic status as much to their technical and design qualities as to the feats of the adventurers who have played a part in their story. Certain GMT-Master watches worn by remarkable individuals have witnessed history in the making. Over the years, Rolex has safeguarded this heritage by conserving some of these exceptional timepieces.

New-York – Moscow flight

From the White House to Red Square

Four years after its launch, the GMT-Master took part in an event that reinforced its image as a watch to connect people: the first non-stop flight by Pan Am between New York and Moscow. Not only was this historic occasion a technical exploit, it was also hugely symbolic. At the height of the Cold War, in July 1959, the plane was carrying journalists to the USSR to report on US Vice President Richard Nixon’s visit to the Soviet Union. At the controls of the Boeing 707 making this pioneering intercontinental journey was Captain C. N. Warren, who used his GMT-Master as a navigation aid. He stated that “the flight itself was navigated by Rolex.”

Pegasus Overland

A voyage of cultural discovery

In 1959, eight men from a British army regiment embarked on a round-the-world expedition named Pegasus Overland, which Rolex supported by equipping each team member with a GMT-Master. Driving two off-road vehicles, they travelled through Europe, Asia, Oceania and Africa, crossing some 34 countries. During the 51-week journey, they captured every moment on film. Their footage gives a unique glimpse of life around the globe in the late 1950s, showing the fashions, cultures, architectures and landscapes of the time.

The X-15 rocket plane

All-time record

From 1959 to 1968, NASA and the US Air Force developed the X-15 hypersonic flight research programme. The rocket-powered experimental aircraft were designed to test pilots’ ability to withstand the effects of extreme velocity and suborbital flight. The extensive data collected from measuring accelerations, pressures, shocks, vibrations, temperatures and other aspects of aerodynamic friction and atmospheric re-entry techniques led to major advances in aerospace research. Among the dozen or so pilots involved, William J. Knight was particularly outstanding. On 3 October 1967, over the Mojave Desert in California, wearing a GMT-Master, he attained a speed of 7,274 km/h (4,520 mph, or Mach 6.7), setting a record that stands to this day.

Apollo XIII

The heart of the space conquest

On 11 April 1970, the Apollo 13 mission left Earth on a voyage that was to be the third American moon landing attempt. Command module pilot Jack Swigert took with him a watch dear to his heart: a GMT-Master, which he wore throughout the mission, like a good-luck charm. Three days after lift-off, a technical fault caused an explosion in the spacecraft’s second oxygen tank. Launched on their lunar trajectory, the three astronauts had no choice but to continue on that course and loop around the Moon in their attempt to return to Earth. Swigert had to correct the trajectory four times. He saved the mission from tragedy by preventing the craft from ricocheting off the Earth’s atmosphere on re-entry. On 17 April, the capsule splashed down in the Pacific Ocean between New Zealand and Fiji, its crew safe and sound.

Apollo XVII

The final mission

On 7 December 1972, the Saturn V rocket launched from Cape Canaveral for the final Apollo lunar mission. Its destination: the highlands bordering the Sea of Serenity. One of the crew, Captain Ronald Evans, was wearing his GMT-Master. As the pilot of the command module, he remained in orbit while his fellow crew members landed on the Moon’s surface. On 14 December, the lunar module redocked with the Apollo 17 spacecraft to begin its long journey home. On 17 December, Evans conducted a spacewalk of over an hour. Two days later, the three astronauts were recovered following splashdown in the Pacific Ocean, closing the final chapter in the Apollo mission story.

The realms of the GMT-Master

Aeronautics

Conquering the skies

Astronautics

Rockets and time zones

From sky to screen.

Adventurers

On the wrists of extreme travellers