columbia 32 sailboat review

Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts.

• Sailboat Guide

Columbia Sabre

Columbia Sabre is a 32 ′ 4 ″ / 9.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Sigurd Herburn/Columbia Yachts and built by Columbia Yachts between 1963 and 1969.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The COLUMBIA SABRE hull is from a mold taken off an Int. 5.5 meter class racer (circa 1958). Columbia first built a small number of these as one-design racers. (The international 5.5 class ruled that they did not conform to their specifications and were banned from class events.) Later Columbia created this version with a trunk cabin and some cruising amenities which is called the SABRE. A similar model (SCORPION 32) was also built by Ericson Yachts, probably from this same mold. (Images from original brochure.)

Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code.

Discover Related Sailboats

Ericson 32 (Scorpion)

• About Sailboat Guide

©2024 Sea Time Tech, LLC

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Columbia 23T as a first real sailboat?

• Thread starter Pete
• Start date Jul 16, 2008
• Forums for All Owners
• Trailer Sailors

Hello all, Yes I am a newbie, but I can at least sail...years on a windsurfer and a lot of time in a Lido 14, I need a real sailboat. I need some advice for a trailerable sailboat. Plenty of room in my yard to keep it. I am looking at Catalina 22's first of all, but most are well worn and not used much very thrashed. Stress cracks, dirty and wasted interiors...I can tell if the sails, mast, boom and rigging is good I am an excellent mechanic. But I found an excellent 1975-6 Columbia 23T in beautiful shape, hull and deck hardly a scratch no stress cracks at all, wonderful interior amazing shape and the boat is reasonable. Trailer is a little rusty but I can fix it. My questions...Is this a good sailer? good quality? fast and fun? any help would be appreciated. Clean it up, lube, check the ropes and rigging drop it in the water and go, no weeks of restoration... Thanks Pete San Diego, CA  

Timm R 25 Oday

Not the whole picture What kind of keel does it have? What is the draft? Does the trailer ned a tongue extension to launch? Is your tow vehicle up to it? Take the weight of the boat and add 30% for the trailer and all the other things you threw into the boat. Is there a system in place for stepping the mast? I don't the sailing characteristics of the Columbia. Most twenty foot keel boats make very good steeping stones.  

Catalina 22 For a first sailboat, I'd go with a more mainstream choice - You'll eventually want to step up and the C22 will be easier to sell. There have been over 15,000 Catalina 22's sold and there is a well developed owners support group for this boat while the Columbia 22 is less well known because its' production run was just a little over 1500. You'll find negatives on both boats, but in my mind if you are looking for a day sailer most of the complaints about either boat of this vintage are minor. A quick check will find many Catalina 22s for sale if you are willing to look a little harder and maybe drive a little.  

my first My first sailboat over 20ft was a 1969 Islander23, sailed it just over a year and found a great deal on a catalina 22 wing keel. Until I move to the coast and get a slip I will stick to the cat 22 we love it. Plenty of room inside and out, a proven design, handles great, solid boat. Alan  

Shoal Draft From what I have found online the 23T draws just more than 1 foot in a long fixed keel with fairly light ballast (the higher up ballast is the more you need). To be frank, that is not a very good set up if upwind performance is a concern and if you plan to sail on the ocean, even in protected waters, I think you may find it a fairly frustrating boat to own long-term if performance is a goal. However, any boat in good condition at a reasonable price is a good first boat in my opinion. If you plan to dry sail her (i.e. launch her every time you use her and raise / lower her mast) I suggest you consider going slightly smaller rather than larger or to at least really evaluate this issue. The number of times you sail per year will likely end up being strongly dependent on how much of a PITA (pain in the...) it is to get the mast up and down. I kept my boat on a mooring and bought a cheap dinghy I could launch easily from my pick-up. I also joined a local (but inexpensive) yacht club to gain access to their launch service. Another thought is that focusing the quality / condition of the interior of a boat this small tends to be less important as most are day sailed. So I guess what I am saying it...does the boat fit your needs? The best advice I can give you is to take of the rose colored glasses you might have on and to sit down with a sheet of clean white paper and a writing implement. Write down what you are looking for out of sailing and out of the boat you would need to do that and what features you prefer. I'll warn you that you often can't figure out the later until you look at enough different boats to get a handle on it. Then rank things by importance and see what you can live with or without. I did this to score various boats and it made me consider makes/models that I hadn't been thinking about. I eventually bought one of those boats. The big trade off I see for you is price vs. performance. I suggest you consider what your goals are for sailing. In my case, I bought a first boat that wasn't a performance boat based on price and sailed it for three years then upgraded. If I hadn't won that boat on ebay for $1000 I likely wouldn't have spent the last three years on the water or be sailing my new (to me) 30 footer from CT to Boston next weekend. I don't know if I could have lived with that decision. I pretty much waited long enough (nearly 20 years) to indulge my sailing bug as it was.  

Nice Boat Good quality for the era. Pointing ability may be questionable as pointed out, but a reasonable compromise for trailerable ability. The good news is that you can probably sell her for what you pay for her so the risk isn't great. And, for that age, condition is very important IMHO, RD  

Hmmm good advice Well thanks all.. I have looked at several Catalina 22's and am considering one that needs some clean up work for a great price, trailer is in good shape, hull is excellent, sails and boom/mast are good, I can fix anything else. But the Columbia 23T is in way better shape than anything else I have seen and at $1,500.00 on the trailer with a 6hp evinrude it is tempting. You all may disagree but I cannot believe how much sailboat you can buy for so little money. Power boats have gotten so expensive, I have friends that have 100-125K in their deck boats. Yes I know some of the large sailboats are very expensive but these deck boats are 23-28 feet with no overnight accomodations. 1000-5000 for a nice sailboat?? wow I have been on the wrong side of boating! The Columbia 23T Keel drafts at 1'-9" I believe, (see their website www.columbia-yachts.com)fixed heavy ballasted and only hangs down about 6-8" more than the Catalina 22 swing keel when fully cranked up. It is gradually sloped from the front to the middle of the keel, I think it is beachable if the angle of the beach is ok. I have a 2000 Dodge 4x4 Diesel 2500 CC Cummins diesel, launching this will be a snap, my other boat(03 24'Cheetah Fast Cat deck boat) weighs 7000lbs on the trailer. But I am still leaning to the Catalina 22's. I have driven 135 miles (one way) to see one of them. I can make my own mast lifting system if I need it. Thanks everyone... Pete  

A good friend of mine has one It's his first boat, and ironically because of it I became a boat owner myself (long story!). Anyway, I've been out on it with him a few times, even a few miles out in the ocean. That is one of the best sails I ever had. The cockpit has a ton of room, more than my 27'. The interior has no headroom but decent space. My friend sleeps comfortably in it and he is over six feet tall. Surprisingly it is not too tender and it sails really nice. Pointing is an issue with the shoal keel but you have to work at running aground. He has a 6 hp four stroke on the back and it is more power than necessary. Honestly, the only thing I don't like about his boat is the lack of lifelines. Stepping the mast is pretty easy for two people of average strength. First time it took us an hour since neither one of us had ever done it before and we didn't any reference (and we couldn't find all the parts). Next time it took 15 minutes! He tows it with a Land Rover Discovery without too much trouble but his trailer doesn't have brakes. After a pretty hairy incident on the Atlantic City Expressway I would highly recommend brakes on the trailer. I'd have to say I would have been happy to have the Columbia as my first boat. Manny  

Sailing performance is important to me Thank you Manny, It is great to find someone experienced with this Columbia 23T. The cockpit is nice, below deck is also very nice and pretty roomy, you should see the condition of this Columbia 23, amazing for a 74-75 any kind of boat. The trailer needs some work though, as I said before I don't think there is a scratch on the deck or hull anywhere. Beautiful interior, all original too. I guess I am a little preformance oriented...I want to sail in the ocean and go to Catalina Island. Trailer it to Dana Point (70 miles) launch and then it is 28 miles to Catalina...sounds doable sail and motor a little for a few days, stay at a local hotel and sleep in the boat also. I have a 13yr old daughter and we love to explore, strap down or tow a kayak and paddle around...lots to see there. My wife may stay home!! I will get a GPS and VHF radio if I go. Ocean performance and safety would be affected by the shallow keel on the Columbia, that is very important. Interiors on used Catalina 22's are easily repaired and upgraded, expecially for a low starting price. The hull condition/integrity is the most important thing to me. I found an inexpensive Catalina 22 with a great deck, hull and trailer amazing for a 70's boat. Thanks to everyone for the opinions and the truth about the shallow keels, this is the info I was looking for here, experienced and knollegable opinions. So I am wrighting a list of must haves as was suggested I alway do this. I welcome any other comments. Pete  

charlesb200

Pete - I have a '75 Columbia 23-T. Not my first sailboat (Sea Snark was first), but second. Have had it since '77. It is an almost 'beachable' boat, a very important point when we were young and had kids - they loved the sail, but always looked forward to playing on the beach. As noted, it is not a ' highperformance' boat in that it doesn't point very high, but when your main goal is to have a good time on the water, high performance is not the highest factor to consider. It is a comfortable sailer, with high coamings to support your back while sailing, long cockpit for occasional naps or nighttime sleeping arrangements. Cabin has sitting headroom, and depending on other amenities (head, sink, stove), it makes a good home for the weekend overnight sailor. We don't trailer, as we have a large bay that gives us plenty of area to gunkhole. Thin water makes the 1' 11" draft almost perfect for our area. While we have run aground (show me a sailor that has not!), it is easy to refloat (you can push it off if you have to). While I would like to have a larger boat that has standing headroom, a boat that large increases everything - size rigging, weight of mast(you can't step a mast on a 30' boat with 2 people), sails are not as easy to handle, sails provide much more force/effort to set correctly, slip rents go up, and the list goes on and on... I think the Columbia 23-T is a great boat - first or only  

Barnacle Bill

The Columbia 23T is a very good boat. Built well and has a good amount of usable interior space for her size. Good size cockpit too. Her negative would be the shoal keel which does not have a centerboard so there will be some compromise to windward performance, but reaching or running will be fun. The boat is not built any more so there will be no manufacturer support, but I cannot imagine anything that can go wrong with her than can't be fixed anyway. For example, you can still get a new mast or boom, if needed, same with sails. Fiberglass can be repaired. Much of the hardware used on the boat can still be purchased possibly as original or certainly someone makes something that will work, etc. It is a great first sailboat.  

Columbia 23 OK, before I type for a lengthy period I want to make sure that this'll post.  

Columbia 23 That's why I love this site, everyone's replies or insight and intelligent. Intelligence and passion are what sets sailors apart from everyone else on the water. Many posts on trailor sailors speak of the bennefit on not having to keep your boat at a marina, and being about to travel to different locations with your sailboat. But, I learned early on (with an 18' fishing boat) that to get the most out of your boat, especially in the Northern waters, you have to keep it on the water. I've found people willing to rent slips on a cannal rather than in a marina, to save costs. And, there is the winter out-haul and storage that I still save on. Anyhow, I purchased a Catalina 22 last spring and I love it. Finally stepping up to a real sailboat after owning a 12' & 13 footer. My one complaint, having a swing-keel, is that the keel is a bit light for sailing on Lake Erie. But, as acknowledged by many, thus is the trade-off of a trailor sailor. Also, as mentioned, sailboats seem to hold up remarkably well (if cared for). Mines an '88 and she looks great. As said, there were many of these produced, so a little hunting should allow you to find a nice one (I had driven 180 miles to pick mine up). My Father had owned a Columbia T23 when I was a boy. He gave up sailing long ago, so, he is not available at this site for comment. The Columbia seemed a little more capable, and had a slightly bigger cabin, from what I recall. My Father said it didn't turn well, especially across the wind (jybing ?). But, with its long heel, it tracked well. I tend to believe that its draft is deeper than 1'8", as we had run aground on more than one occasion (docking it at the far end of a swamp did not help). I'm sure you'll be happy with either (although, you've likely purchased one by now). I do like having the adjustability of a swing heel. And, Catalina 22's are certainly affordable.  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Ericson 41 Used Boat Review

Mason 33 Used Boat Review

Beneteau 311, Catalina 310 and Hunter 326 Used Boat Comparison

Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

Getting the Most Out of Older Sails

How (Not) to Tie Your Boat to a Dock

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

Working with High-Tech Ropes

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Boat Repairs for the Technically Illiterate

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate: Part 1

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Mastering Precision Drilling: How to Use Drill Guides

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

• Sailboat Reviews

Columbia 9.6

This late '70s coastal cruiser is somewhat plain but structurally sturdy..

The Columbia 9.6 is one of the last boats built by this pioneer of fiberglass sailboats. The 9.6 stands for meters and distinguishes it from Columbias earlier boats, which used feet: Columbia 22, 26, 28, etc.

According to Heart of Glass, former PS editor Dan Spurrs encompassing history of the fiberglass boatbuilding industry, Columbia was founded by 25-year-old Richard Valdes and Maurice Thrienen in 1960. Valdes had graduated from the University of California, Los Angeles in 1956. Thrienen, 10 years older, had served in the US Navy submarine service during World War II. In 1957, Thrienen was selling fiberglass supplies.

The company was first named Glas Laminates, later Glass Marine Industries. Within a few years, the name was changed to Columbia, after the successful introduction in 1962 of the Columbia 29, designed by Sparkman & Stephens. It became, along with Jensen Marine that built the Cal line, one of the largest builders of fiberglass sailboats. Later they built a line of power cruisers called the Express 30, 36 and 42. In its heyday, Columbia exported boats to Europe.

Learning early on not to put all their eggs in one basket, the young men also built fiberglass camper tops, shower stalls and chemical toilets. Perhaps this was because Vince Lazarra had bought controlling interest in their company. Lazarra had come out of Chicago, where he owned a foundry, to join with Fred Coleman in Sausalito building the first production fiberglass sailboat, the Bounty II. When they sold out to Grumman, Lazzara moved south to Costa Mesa to join Valdes and Thrienen.

In 1964, Columbia opened an East Coast facility in Portsmouth, Virginia.

By 1965, Columbia built the largest production fiberglass sailboat-the Columbia 50, the boat in which authors Steve and Linda Dashew made their first circumnavigation. The 50 was successful both on the race course and in numbers sold.

Bill Tripp designed the 50 and a slew of similar, flush-deck racer/cruisers-among them the 26, 34, and 43. Bill Crealock was commissioned for the hugely popular Columbia 22 and Charley Morgan for the Columbia 40, based on his Sabre, which nearly won the 1964 SORC. The Columbia 31 was based on Morgans Paper Tiger, which did win the SORC-twice.

In 1967 the trio sold out to the Whittaker Corp. and Lazzara moved on, building houseboats for a time before his no-compete clause expired, when he started Gulfstar in Florida.

The “meter” line of sailboats was introduced in the mid and late 1970s. All were designed by Australian Alan Payne, whose 12 Meters Gretel and Gretel II had competed tenaciously for the Americas Cup.

When Whittaker decided to unload Columbia, it was the molds for the Columbia 7.6, 8.7 and 10.7 that were sent to Aura in Huron Park, Ontario, Canada. Aura built some of these models, but only between 1984 and 1986.

The Design Columbia called Paynes “meter” boats “Widebody Supercruisers.” While some other models in the line may have had wider beam than most of their contemporaries, this isn’t the case with the 9.6’s 10’2″ beam. For example, the 1973 Ranger 32’s beam is 10’10”; the Paceship 32 10’6″ and the C&C-designed Ontario 32 11’0″. Yes, there were boats with narrower beams, but these were generally older designs.

The company also hyped the 9.6, introduced in 1976, as having a …racing physique. And a cruising heart. The production run was about three years. Like nearly all major production builders, Columbia was after the elusive ideal of the racer-cruiser, trying to convince buyers that you really can have it all: Win races and cruise in sheik-like comfort.

When first introduced, Columbia said it was organizing one-design fleets around the country- la the Tartan Ten-but we don’t recall this happening, at least on any large scale.

The overhangs are fairly generous, especially the almost clipperesque bow (because of its slight concave shape), which gives the boat just a 23’9″ waterline length. Draft is 5’6″, which is a bit deeper than many 32-footers, and a nice concession toward the fast end of the performance continuum.

The most interesting and distinguishing characteristic of the 9.6, however, is the skeg between the keel and rudder. Of it, designer Payne said, “The skeg of the 9.6 was carefully designed to eliminate the separation wave which is commonly seen on the weather side towards the stern of a medium displacement yacht when it is heeled over and going fairly fast.”

When viewing the plans, it certainly seems that this long skeg makes for too much wetted surface area.

Payne also noted that medium displacement was chosen in order to provide reasonable space inside plus the structural strength necessary for a lasting investment.

Unlike the 8.7 Meter, with its unusual wine glass transom, the 9.6 has an IOR type transom-a small triangular shape.

In any case, shes better looking in the flesh (if one can say that about fiberglass) than on paper.

The displacement/length (D/L) ratio is a hefty 350 while the sail area/displacement (SA/D) ratio is a modest 15.3. Given these numbers, it’s hard to see how this boat can win many races, despite the fact that its waterline length increases as it heels.

Construction The older and more successful Columbia models, such as the 26 and 36, all had molded fiberglass pans glassed into the empty hull; these pans incorporated the engine beds, berths and most of the other “furniture.” Such “unitized” interiors, as Columbia called them, greatly speed up construction as it reduces man-hours-a key factor in the cost of building a boat. They do, however, have their drawbacks, as we have pointed out many times. Compared to plywood interiors tabbed to the hull, fiberglass pans are poor acoustic and thermal insulators (they are noisier and condense more moisture), can make access to parts of the hull difficult, severely limit customization, and are difficult to rebond to the hull should they ever come loose.

That said, the Alan Payne “meter” line has built-up wood interiors, which we much prefer.

To stiffen the hull, longitudinal stringers are glassed in both below the cabin sole and above the waterline. Columbia literature doesn’t specify what the stringers are formed over, but theyre probably wood or foam. The hull laminate itself is solid glass. The deck is cored with balsa.

Ballast is external lead with 3/4″ keel bolts.

The rudder is a hollow fiberglass shell filled with foam; the rudderstock is stainless steel. Owners of the 8.3 noted a number of rudder failures but we did not hear this complaint about the 9.6.

A molded drip pan is fitted below the engine to prevent oil from migrating into the bilge.

An important feature for offshore sailing is the tabbing of structural bulkheads to the deck. This isn’t possible when molded fiberglass headliners are used. The 9.6 has a fabric headliner with zippered panels so the bulkheads can be bonded to the deck and so one can access the nuts that hold deck hardware in place.

The standard cabin sole is wood but of what species we are uncertain. A teak and holly sole was optional.

The 9.6 has a lot of teak veneer plywood and solid teak trim in the interior. Otherwise unfinished areas of the hull were coated with gelcoat, which makes them easier to clean.

All through-hulls are fitted with proper, positive-action, bronze seacocks, not gate valves that can freeze and whose handles may then twist off in your hand.

The toerail is an anodized aluminum extrusion similar to that popularized by C&C and that allows one to shackle a block anywhere; it also strengthens the hull-deck joint.

The electrical system has circuit breakers, but not many circuits. A good upgrade on many older boats is to install a new panel with more circuits. Be sure 12VDC and any 110VAC shore power systems are on separate panels per American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) standards. Some older boats may have combined panels. Underwater metal parts such as through-hulls are electrically bonded together and to a sacrificial zinc anode, which means that there are wires connecting them so that they all have the same voltage potential. This should minimize loss of metal to galvanic corrosion. The boat also has a lightning ground system, which directs current through the mast and shrouds to ground (water).

Standard steering was a tiller; in 1977 wheel steering was a $950 option. The rig is a keel-stepped masthead sloop with double lower shrouds.

Most owners responding to our Boat Owners Questionnaire rate construction quality as excellent, despite the fact that nearly all respondents complained about problems with the hull-sump joint. A few also noted gelcoat crazing.

Several owners said that the engine exhaust installation was incorrect and allowed water to backflow into the engine. This can be an expensive repair so check any boat you’re considering purchasing to make sure this has been taken care of. Often the cause of water backflowing into the engine is the wrong placement of the waterlift muffler, or a muffler not large enough to hold the volume of water between it and the exhaust fitting in the hull.

Accommodations The interior plan is straightforward and functional. Two layouts were offered during the production run. Hulls #1-90 have twin pilot berths in the saloon. Hulls after #90 have an extension berth and pilot berth to starboard and a settee/berth to port. This later plan also has a quarterberth to port, whereas the earlier plan has no quarterberth, but instead an ice box with chart table over. In both layouts there is a V-berth forward plus enclosed head and hanging locker. Maximum headroom is 6′ 1″.

An early brochure made this point: “Teak Cabins Vs. Teak Trim. Theres a Difference. Youll find a lot of boats that claim ‘teak interiors.’ But look closely. Unlike many ‘price boats’ that offer a teak bulkhead or two and some teak trim, the 9.6 cabin is all teak. Teak doors, cabinets, drawers, bulkheads, lockers, shower grate. Teak wherever you look. You can even get a teak sole. Only the counter and table tops, that have non-mar surfaces for frequent cleaning, are not teak. But even they have teak sea rails.”

You get the idea.

The 1970s was a time when everyone wanted gobs of teak-down below and on deck. Teak decks were considered the classiest. Teak is a low-maintenance wood and highly rot resistant, owing to the high amount of oils in it. Ignored, it turns a weathered gray, which is fine if you don’t mind a dingy appearance. If, however, you want to enjoy the beauty of oiled or varnished teak, teak suddenly becomes much more maintenance-intensive, requiring sanding, taping off, and the application of an oil or varnish by brush. While many owners happily or grudgingly perform these rites of spring (and summer and fall if theyre smart), during the 1980s more boat owners began deciding theyd be willing to forego the beauty of natural teak for more time sailing. Builders were quick to pick up on this trend and began stripping teak off the boats above and below. Today it’s not uncommon to see a big boat with no teak on deck and more judicious use of it below.

Performance Designed to the IOR (International Offshore Rule), the 9.6 had a 21.7 rating. One of the more interesting comments from owners is the complaint that the boat is difficult to make perform to that rating. Typical of these remarks was this summation from the owner of a 1977 model in Massachusetts: Sails well, good in chop, handles well, however she will not race to her rating, either IOR or PHRF.

The average PHRF rating is around 189 seconds per mile, though there are few fleets around the country.

As with most boats, owners’ ratings of upwind and downwind speed, compared to other boats of similar size, are no doubt exaggerated. Most rate upwind speed as excellent and downwind as above average. A few perhaps more realistic owners give ratings of average and below average. In any case, nearly all agree that the boat doesn’t perform as well off the wind, which is generally the case with IOR-type hull forms.

In the same vein, owners rate stability and seaworthiness as very good but nearly all downgrade the boat for balance-again, particularly off the wind. “Must work controls to maintain balance,” said the owner of a 1977 model in Pennsylvania.

When you study the sailplan you see a very high-aspect ratio mainsail and large overlapping genoa. In recent years, the trend has been in the opposite direction, back to smaller headsails (even self-tacking jibs of 100% or less) and larger mainsails, if for no other reason than most people don’t like to grind winches.

Several small diesels were supplied with the 9.6, including the 10-hp. Volvo MD6B and the MD7. Most owners complain that these powerplants are too small to move the boat at desired speeds, especially into head seas. Many have repowered with larger engines. If we were looking for a used 9.6, wed hope for one with a newer and larger diesel. We noted that some repowered with early model Q series Yanmars, which prospective buyers should know are not the same as the current generation, and are quite a bit noisier.

Conclusion The Columbia 9.6 is one of the better looking “meter” boats from designer Alan Payne. The basic structure is quite strong and suitable for offshore sailing.The interior may, to some eyes at least, be a bit on the dark side owing to all the teak. Of course one could paint over some of it, but that seems sacrilegious… even if the amount of teak is on the excessive side.

We could make do with either of the two interiors. Pilot berths make good sea berths and also are good places to store frequently accessed gear. Fit the berths with adjustable weather cloths to keep stuff from flying across the cabin. One owner said that the interior was great for overnight races, and we assume he’s referring to the four berths amidships (or three in the saloon and one quarterberth in the early model). Kids like pilot berths, too.

The boat is not a screamer, but acquits itself quite nicely upwind. A spinnaker helps performance off the wind, though the helm will need attention.

Asking prices range from the high teens to low twenties, averaging around $21,000.

Also With This Article Click here to view the Owner Comments . Click here to view the Used Boat Price History .

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

What’s the Best Sailboats for Beginners?

Why Does A Sailboat Keel Fall Off?

The Perfect Family Sailboat! Hunter 27-2 – Boat Review

Pettit EZ-Poxy – How to Paint a Boat

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• About The Boat
• Boat Review Forum
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!
• Add to quote

So, I'm now considering a Sabre 32 - with the "classic" cabin configuration. I'm about 5 hours from the boat, so haven't seen it in person yet, but had a sailing buddy go check it out. I like the boat and Sabres seem to have a good reputation. The one thing he disliked about the arrangement were the companionway steps - one of the "steps" is basically the galley counter very close to the sink. And the steps look pretty tiny. Just doesn't look very convenient and I can see myself stepping into the sink. I know some of the C&C boats have a similar layout. Anyone have any feedback on Sabre in general and this 32 layout? Thanks, Dave  

If it's the well-equipped one for sale in Portland, I have done an overnight delivery up the WA coast on it. Easy motion at sea and very well built. Darned good quality boat. (no personal or $ interest, but your bio sez you are in Washington...) Loren  

Yep, it's the one in Portland, so I appreciate the comments - thanks. Dave  

Good reputation, a handsome boat, find one in good shape and I'm sure you'll be happy. All the usual caveats apply for any boat of that age. Plenty of boats use the galley counter as a step.. not crazy about it myself but I'd worry more about stepping into a bowl full of pancake batter by accident than anything else. I think it would ultimately be mostly an annoyance to the galley slave. In general, though, it does provide more counter area than might otherwise be possible.  

I believe the 32 footer shares the same keel step as the 38's like we had. Double check it as they are prone to water damage and can need some repair. Otherwise one of the best boats, I have ever owned. enjoy  

This 32 is deck-stepped but I believe the Sabre 34 is keel-stepped. I have heard of problems with rot at the bottom of the teak compression post so I'll definitely check that out. The Sabres seem to be well thought of, so I'm hoping this works out. Thanks, Dave  

k7el said: This 32 is deck-stepped but I believe the Sabre 34 is keel-stepped. I have heard of problems with rot at the bottom of the teak compression post so I'll definitely check that out. The Sabres seem to be well thought of, so I'm hoping this works out. Thanks, Dave Click to expand...

Hope you like "Hunter Green". (YUCK)  

Lazerbrains said: Hope you like "Hunter Green". (YUCK) Click to expand...

• ?            
• 176.2K members

Top Contributors this Month