rolex yacht master 40 vs 42

Rolex Yacht-Master Ultimate Buying Guide

As Rolex’s most diverse sports watch collection, the Yacht-Master is not only available in a wide assortment of case metals and sizes but it has also been paired with various bracelet styles and bezel materials. In less than three decades, the Rolex Yacht-Master collection has been home to dozens of references – some of which have been discontinued – and the nautical-inspired sports watch continues to be a mainstay of the Rolex lineup. There are two distinct models that share almost identical names: the Yacht Master and the Yacht Master II.

While the original Rolex Yacht-Master is an ultra-luxurious take on Rolex’s already popular sports watches, the Rolex Yacht-Master II was purpose-built to time out regattas in competitive sailing. Essentially, the Yacht-Master is the kind of watch you wear while lounging on a boat and a Yacht Master II is what you wear if you’re racing one. Nonetheless, both Rolex watches are incredibly popular, sought-after for their sleek designs and impeccable quality.

With that in mind, if you’re in the market for a Rolex Yacht Master, there are some important things you should know about the model (such as its history, pricing, and features) before you make a decision. Here, we’ve compiled everything you need to know about buying Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II watches to make the most informed purchase possible. Ready to get started?

Rolex Yacht-Master

Yacht-Master Key Features:

– Case Size: 29mm, 35mm, 37mm, 40mm, 42mm – Material Options:  Rolesium, Yellow Rolesor, Everose Rolesor, 18k Yellow Gold, 18k Everose Gold, 18k White Gold – Functions:  Time with running seconds, date display. – Bezel: 60-minute timing (bi-directional) – Water Resistance:  100 meteres / 330 feet. – Strap/Bracelet: Oyster bracelet, Oysterflex bracelet

Click here to learn more about Rolesium: a special metal combination that is only featured on the Rolex Yacht-Master.

Rolex Yacht-Master II

Yacht-Master II Key Features:

– Case Size:  44mm – Material Options: Stainless steel, Everose Rolesor, 18k Yellow Gold, 18k White Gold – Functions:  Time with running seconds, adjustable countdown timer with mechanical memory – Bezel: Ring Command Bezel – Water Resistance:  100 meters / 330 feet. – Strap/Bracelet:  Oyster bracelet

Click here to learn how to set the adjustable countdown timer on the Rolex Yacht-Master II.

Quick Look: Rolex Yacht-Master Timeline

Even though the Yachtmaster collection is one of the newest additions to the Rolex lineup, there has been a great amount of innovation over the years. Additionally, while we didn’t see this watch come to life until the early 1990s, Rolex history shows that they had concepts and ideas of a yacht-themed watch long before it was ever brought to market. 1950’s — Rolex joins the prestigious New York Yacht Club 1966 to 1967 — Sir Francis Chichester becomes the first man to circumnavigate the globe single-handedly and he wore a Rolex Oyster watch 1992 — Rolex introduces the Yacht-Master collection 1994 —  Rolex introduces the midsize and ladies’ models 1996 — Rolex introduces the two-tone midsize and ladies’ models 1997 — Rolex releases the Rolesium version (also known as steel and platinum) 2007 — Rolex releases the Yacht-Master II, which is the world’s first watch equipped with a programmable countdown timer and a mechanical memory 2013 — Rolex updates the movement inside the Yacht-Master II collection from the Cal. 4160 to the Cal. 4161. 2019  — Rolex introduces the Yacht-Master 42 to the collection

History of the Rolex Yacht-Master

While we wouldn’t be introduced to the very first Yacht-Master until 1992, Rolex’s history with sailing actually dates back to 1958, the year the Swiss watchmaker partnered with the prestigious New York Yacht Club. By then, Rolex had already garnered a reputation for making great waterproof watches with the invention of their Rolex Oyster case back in 1926. So, the partnership was actually quite a natural next step.

Rolex solidified its relationship with the world of sailing in 1966 when Francis Chichester — one of history’s most exceptional navigators — became the first person to sail around the globe on his yacht, the Gipsy Moth IV, with a Rolex on his wrist. His voyage, which spanned from August 1966 to May 1967, took him 29,600 miles around the world. however, the most impressive part is that he only had a few tools to help him navigate his way, including nautical charts, a sextant, and a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. The Rolex wristwatch chronometer he used was a reliable and steady partner, helping him keep time amidst rough conditions for 226 days at sea.

Despite the brand’s massive success in creating watches that were great for sailing, Rolex continued to hold back its efforts to create a watch specifically for this category. The brand did briefly dabble with the idea in the 1960’s, releasing a prototype dial for the Cosmograph chronograph with the name “Yacht Master” on it, but the idea never took hold. Today, only two known examples of this prototype Daytona Yacht-Master are known to exist — one belonging to Eric Clapton (whose model sold for $125,100 at auction in 2003) and one owned by legendary Rolex collector John Goldberger.

In 1992, we were finally introduced to the modern Yacht Master we know and love today. Its official name, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master, was the brand’s first ultra-luxury sports watch built for the open seas. To make sure that collectors understood the luxury aspect of this new watch, the very first 40mm model was forged entirely out of solid 18k yellow gold and featured a matching gold bi-directional rotating bezel (marked to 60 minutes for timing) alongside a gold Oyster bracelet. Over the next few decades, Rolex has expanded the collection using a variety of materials as well as adding new sizes to the luxury nautical watch collection.

15 years after the first release of the Yachtmaster, Rolex introduced the regatta chronograph Yacht-Master II specifically made for sportsmen to use while regatta racing. To cater specifically to these athletes, Rolex outfitted the watch with important features like a programmable countdown timer (to measure with reliability how much time until the start of the race) and both flyback and fly-forward functionality (for easy synchronization should the race committee have to restart the race sequence). Another key difference is that the Rolex Yacht-Master II is only available in one size, 44mm with an Oyster case and bracelet. However, there are a variety of alloys available.

How Much is a Rolex Yacht-Master?

Because there is such a wide variety of sizes and materials used across the Rolex Yacht-Master collection, the prices tend to vary significantly. For example, you can pick up some of the older or smaller Rolex Yacht-Master models for around $5,000 on the second-hand market. However, newer, larger Yacht-Master models, especially those forged out of precious metals, can sell for well into five-figures.

How much is a Yacht Master II?

Due to its large size, complicated movement, and frequent use of precious metals, the Yacht-Master II is one of the higher-priced Rolex watches you can purchase. In terms of pre-owned prices, a stainless steel reference of the Yacht-Master II starts around $15,000. This may seem steep, considering that this Yacht-Master II is stainless steel and doesn’t feature any diamonds or gems. However, the complexity of the movement is what really makes this watch shine and it is the primary factor behind its high price tag. On the higher end, the yellow gold ref. 116688 costs $43,550 retail and can be bought for around $28,000 on the pre-owned market.

Buying Pre-Owned vs New Yacht-Master Watches

The key difference between buying a pre-owned Rolex Yacht-Master or Yacht-Master II versus a new one is the price. For a retail Rolex model , you will surely pay a premium – especially if you choose one of the precious metal models. On the secondary market, you can get a Yacht-Master for a much lower price, and many collectors find this option a better value for their investment. However, this is still totally dependent on the specifics about the watch which you can get an idea of in the chart above. The price of a pre-owned Yacht-Master will always vary depending on factors like its alloy, the year it was produced, condition, and whether it is a luxury-oriented Yacht-Master or a sporty and purpose-built Yacht-Master II.

Often, many collectors turn to the second-hand market to purchase a Rolex Yacht-Master. Of course, the price is a big factor, but due to the durability and overall build quality, a used Rolex Yacht-Master represents a highly competitive offering. Because these watches are purpose-built to withstand weather and water, they tend to age well even if they have been heavily worn, loved, and used. Another reason that collectors turn to the second-hand market is to get their hands on early models. Since the Yacht-Master has only been around for about 30 years, it is still quite easy to track down some of the early references. This is a great opportunity for collectors who not only love the Yacht-Master as a watch but who also want to make a smart investment for their collection that has great potential to increase in value.

Rolex Yacht-Master References

While the Yacht-Master is one of the newest Rolex models, only first introduced in 1992, the watch has been given a wide variety of upgrades in sizing, alloys, and bezels over the years. Here, this comprehensive list outlines all of the standard-production Yacht-Master references since its initial introduction. This list is also incredibly important as a reference if you are purchasing a Rolex Yacht-Master on the secondary market, as it will serve as a great quick reference for what models have been produced over the years.

Yacht-Master

226659 = 42mm, solid 18k white gold with Cerachrom bezel 16622 = 40mm; Rolesium (stainless steel and platinum) 16628 = 40mm; solid 18k yellow gold 166233 = 40mm; Rolesor (two-tone steel and yellow gold) 116622 = 40mm; Rolesium (stainless steel and platinum) 116621 : 40mm; Rolesor (two-tone steel and Everose gold) 116655 = 40mm; solid 18k Everose gold with Cerachrom bezel 268621 = 37mm; Rolesor (two-tone steel and Everose gold) 268655 : 37mm; solid 18k Everose gold with Cerachrom bezel 268622 : 37mm; Rolesium (stainless steel and platinum) 68623 = 35mm; Rolesor (two-tone steel and yellow gold) 68628 = 35mm; solid 18k yellow gold 168622 = 35mm; Rolesium (stainless steel and platinum) 168623 = 35mm; Rolesor (two-tone steel and yellow gold) 168628 = 35mm; solid 18k yellow gold 169623 = 29mm; Rolesor (two-tone steel and yellow gold) 169628 = 29mm; solid 18k yellow gold 169622 = 29mm; Rolesium (stainless steel and platinum) 69628 = 29mm; solid 18k yellow gold 69623 = 29mm; Rolesor (two-tone steel and yellow gold)

Yacht-Master II

116680 = 44mm; stainless steel with Cerachrom bezel 116689 = 44mm; solid 18k white gold with platinum bezel 116688 = 44mm; solid 18k yellow gold with Cerachrom bezel 116681 = 44mm; Rolesor (two-tone steel and Everose gold) with Cerachrom bezel

Everything You Need To Know About The Rolex Yacht-Master Features & Options

Since the first all-gold Yacht-Master was released in 1992, Rolex has expanded the line with a variety of aesthetic details and mechanical upgrades. Here, we’ll explore the different options available on both the retail and secondary market for the Rolex Yacht-Master collection.

Rolex Yacht-Master materials

Today, Rolex no longer makes yellow gold versions of their standard Yacht-Master model, replacing it with Everose (their proprietary rose gold alloy) and 18k white gold. However, the 42mm version is the only white gold version (which was only just introduced at Baselworld 2019) is the only white gold model, as well as the only 42mm model in the collection. – Yellow Gold (discontinued) – Yellow Rolesor two-tone  (discontinued) – Everose Gold – Everose Rolesor two-tone – White Gold – Rolesium (Oystersteel and platinum)

Rolex Yacht-Master sizes

Rolex has produced this luxury sports watch in a few different sizes to ensure that everyone has a Yacht-Master that fits their wrist perfectly. However, the smaller sized Yacht-Master models, known as the Lady Yacht-Master watches, have been discontinued in favor of the newer 37mm models. Today, women are reaching for more unisex sizes and designs, which could be what lead to the decision by Rolex. But that doesn’t mean women collectors are strapped for choice — as the current retail models are incredibly luxe and sophisticated for enthusiasts of both sexes. Furthermore, the secondary market is a great place to still get your hands on the smaller sized Midsize and Lady Yacht-Master models, and going pre-owned also opens up the doors to now-discontinued models like the solid yellow gold Yacht-Master watches. – 29mm (discontinued) – 35mm (discontinued) – 37mm – 40mm – 42mm

Rolex Yacht-Master bezel

With the Rolex Yacht-Master, the materials and aesthetics of the bezel depend on the material used for the case. With the Yacht-Master, there are bezels that consist of solid 950 platinum or 18k gold with raised, polished numerals. There are also bezels that are matte black Cerachrom ceramic with raised numerals, which are typically only fitted to the various solid 18k gold Yacht Master references. One of the less common and more flashy Yacht-Master bezels is nicknamed the “gummy bear” and it features rainbow-colored sapphires set around the bezel.

Rolex Yacht-Master dial

The dial of the Yacht-Master is quite archetypal of other Rolex sports watches. To ensure the watch is easily readable, the dial layout of the Yacht-Master features Mercedes-style hands, lume-filled hour markers, and a date window over at 3 o’clock. The dial itself is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal that has a Cyclops magnification lens for easier reading of the date. When it comes to the dial color of the Yacht-Master, there are several colors and materials that have been used over the years, like the beautiful blue dial on the ref. 116622 or the luxe sandblasted platinum dial that can be found on the now-discontinued version of this reference.

Rolex Yacht-Master bracelet

The Rolex Yacht-Master only ever features either an Oyster bracelet or an Oysterflex bracelet. The iconic, three-link bracelet Oyster bracelet is a Rolex staple, and it is featured across nearly the brand’s entire collection — from the Datejust to the Daytona to the Yacht-Master. In 2015, Rolex also introduced the now-famous Oysterflex bracelet on the then-new Everose gold Yacht-Master. This rubber bracelet is far more impressive than it appears at first glance. The rubber strap is actually reinforced by an internal flexible metal blade, making it incredibly durable and sporty, while still having this elevated aesthetic that matches the overall luxury feeling of this timepiece.

Rolex Yacht-Master movement

Depending on the size of the Yacht-Master watch, it will have a different movement to fit the case. Additionally, in 2019, Rolex updated the 40 version of the watch to feature the new-generation Cal. 3235 movement. Below are the sizes Rolex has used in its various Yacht-Master watches over the years.

– 29mm : Caliber 2135; Caliber 2235 – 35mm : Caliber 2135; Caliber 2235 – 37mm : Caliber 2236 – 40mm : Caliber 3135; Caliber 3235 – 42mm : Caliber 3235

Everything You Need To Know About The Rolex Yacht-Master II Features & Options

Below, we’ll outline the different options available on both the retail and pre-owned market for the Rolex Yacht-Master II collection.

Rolex Yacht-Master II materials

In keeping with the inherently luxurious feel of the Yacht-Master line, the Rolex Yacht-Master II is outfitted in some of the world’s finest alloys. Many collectors love this watch for its combination of precious metals and durable stainless steel — what Rolex calls Rolesor. On the Yacht-Master II, there is the Everose Rolesor which is beloved for the warm pink hue of its 18k Everose gold components. Another great combination is the white gold and platinum Yacht-Master II; however, this is obviously a much more opulent choice at represents the top-of-the-line offering in the Yacht-Master II lineup. Of course, there is also a stainless steel option with a blue ceramic bezel for those who just want sheer practicality and durability. Unlike the standard Yacht-Master, you can get this larger, more complicated timepiece outfitted in solid yellow 18k gold if you really want to go all out. – Yellow Gold – Everose Rolesor two-tone – White Gold and platinum – Oystersteel

Rolex Yacht-Master II sizes

There are a lot of features that separate the Rolex Yacht-Master II from the standard Yacht-Master, and the 44mm size is immediately one of the most noticeable. While the Yacht-Master II case is just 2mm larger than the largest Yacht-Master, this extra-large sizing helps this watch house a more complicated dial and movement.

– 44mm

Rolex Yacht-Master II bezel

Another one of the big differentiators with the Yacht-Master II is that large, beautiful bezel. The bidirectional rotatable ‘Ring Command bezel’ on the Yacht-Master II is specifically designed to help the wearer time out a regatta. Unlike most bezels that operate independently from the internal movement, the ‘Ring Command’ bezel on the Yacht-Master II actually works with the watch’s state-of-the-art movement. Rotating the bezel unlocks access to the programmable countdown timer, enabling quick and easy setting for use during competitions. While the design is incredibly complex, the aesthetics are beautifully simple.

When it comes to the look of the bezel itself, the Yacht-Master II does differ from the standard Yacht-Master. While a two-texture timing bezel defines the original model, the real star of the Rolex Yacht-Master II is that bright, beautiful blue Cerachrom bezel. This blue ceramic bezel is featured on the stainless steel, yellow gold and two-tone Everose Rolesor Yacht-Master II watches; however, the white gold models receive their bezels in sandblasted platinum.

Rolex Yacht-Master II dial

The Rolex Yacht-Master II dial layout is stunning, sophisticated, and totally different than any of the other Rolex dials due to its niche complication. On the dial, you will find a variety of features including the countdown display (which can be programmed anywhere from 1 to 10 minutes) that you can read via the red arrow-tipped hand. You will also notice the central flyback/fly-forward chronograph hand, the center hour and minute hands, and the running seconds sub-dial.

The dial of the Rolex Yacht-Master II is also outfitted with 12 lume-filled hour makers for added readability. Today, the most modern references are outfitted with Rolex’s Chromalight display, which is a luminescent material that emits a blue long-lasting glow.

You will also notice a big difference between the dial of the new generation of Yacht-Master II watches and the first generation, which featured baton-style hands that pointed to square hour markers. It was only in 2017 that Rolex decided to marry the style of the Yacht-Master II with the brand’s famous Mercedes-style hands. Rolex also updated the hour markers to feature a triangular hour marker at 12 and a rectangular hour marker at 6, rather than just square-shaped markers all the way around.

Rolex Yacht-Master II bracelet

Unlike the Yacht-Master which has two bracelets, the Rolex Yacht-Master II is only available with an Oyster bracelet. The sporty, durable 3-piece link bracelet is a staple for the brand’s sports watches, which makes it a perfect choice for this professional regatta watch. Rolex has also outfitted this Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock folding clasp, built specifically to prevent the wearer from losing the watch due to accidental opening. This is a great feature for this model, which is purpose-built to be used during tough racing conditions.

Rolex Yacht-Master II movement

It’s clear that the Rolex Yacht-Master II is an incredible looking timepiece. But, the most impressive part of this watch is by far its movement. When the watch was first released, the Yacht-Master II was outfitted with the brand’s Caliber 4160, with Caliber 4161 making its debut a few years later in 2013.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II features one of the brand’s most complicated in-house movements to date — the self-winding mechanical chronograph, caliber 4160/4161. This movement boasts high-tech features like a countdown timer with both flyback and fly-forward functionality and a mechanical memory with on-the-fly chronograph synchronization, making it incredibly sophisticated. Additionally, the bezel (aka the Ring Command Bezel) is actually connected to the mechanism itself, allowing the wearer to adjust and set the countdown feature quickly and easily on the go. Rolex says it took its engineers some 35,000 hours of development to create this mechanism — and we think it was well worth it. – Ref. 116689 : Caliber 4160; Caliber 4161 – Ref. 116688 : Caliber 4160; Caliber 4161 – Ref. 116681 : Caliber 4160; Caliber 4161 – Ref. 116680 : Caliber 4161

Celebrities Who Wear the Rolex Yacht-Master

It probably doesn’t come as a surprise that one of Rolex’s most bold and luxurious watches is popular among the world’s most famous celebrities. One of the most well-known A-listers to sport the Yacht-Master is Mark Wahlberg, who is already a really big Rolex fan. We’ve seen him out and about in a solid 18k yellow gold Rolex Yacht-Master II, which totally pops against that blue ceramic bezel. Mark has no trouble making a statement with his watches, and that’s clear with this stunning timepiece.

Tennis champion Roger Federer also famously sports the top-of-the-line 18k white gold and platinum Yacht-Master II, while comedian and host Ellen DeGeneres is often spotted wearing her the 18k Everose gold Yacht-Master 40 with a black Cerachrom bezel and a black Oysterflex bracelet. Other celebrities that have been seen wearing the Yacht-Master include the following list of names, although there are many other stars who proudly have a Rolex Yacht-Master in their collections. – Russell Crowe – Lydia Ko – Sir Robin Knox-Johnston – Mark Wahlberg – Bruce Willis – Connor McGregor – Emeril Lagasse – David Beckham – Guy Fieri – Steven Gerrard – A$AP Rocky – Billy Joe Saunders – Flo Rida – Drake – Manny Pacquiao – Ellen DeGeneres – Ed Sheeran

How to Style The Rolex Yacht-Master

The Yacht-Master was an instant classic when it was introduced by Rolex, which means that it is incredibly easy to work it into your wardrobe. What we love so much about this watch collection — whether we’re talking about the Yacht-Master or the Yacht-Master II — is that it has this incredible balance of luxury and sports-oriented performance. Being able to dress this watch both up and down is what makes the Rolex Yacht-Master so much fun to wear. Here are just three classic ways you can wear this watch.

Yacht-Master with Bracelets

Ladies love this watch for its luxe finishing and superior durability. What woman doesn’t want a watch they can wear to drinks, diving, or lounging in the cabana? Because of that, we love pairing a beautiful two-tone Rolex Yacht-Master with bangles and bracelets that match the gold components on the watch. For example, we love the pairing of the 29mm Lady Yacht Master ref. 169623 with a gold Cartier love bracelet bangle and a linked chain. If you’re feeling really bold, you might as well go all out and pair your gold bracelets with a solid, 18k yellow gold Yacht-Master. Fair warning: you’re going to not be able to stop staring at your wrist. Chances are, no one else will be able to either.

Dressing Up With The Matte Black ref. 268655

We love this unisex 37mm timepiece because it works equally well on both men and women’s wrists. What makes this watch so special is the rubber Oysterflex strap watch that allows it to be sporty and durable. Matching that bracelet with the matte black bezel and dial really elevates the entire watch, which looks handsome and luxurious with the warm 18k Everose gold case. So when evening comes, head to the bar for sundowners wearing this ref. 268655. Of course, it will look good with a dark jacket. But, this watch will really pop if you pair it with a warm-colored shirt that accentuates the natural Everose hue. Finish the outfit off with dark wash jeans and you’ve mastered the elegant-meets-accessible look that defines this modern luxury watch.

Casual Elegance with the Yacht Master II

The two-tone Everose Rolesor Yacht-Master II is the ultimate luxury sports watch. You have luxury elements like the ceramic Cerachrom blue bezel and 18k Everose gold alongside durable Oystersteel and one of Rolex’s most complicated mechanisms to date. Because of this watch’s exclusivity, durability, water resistance, and functionality, there really isn’t a better choice for spending time on the high seas. And while this watch was built to time out a regatta, it is going to look just as good on your wrist while you lounge, swim, and play. We suggest pairing your Two-Tone Everose Rolesor’s blue bezel with a matching blue suit. Alternatively, you can pair it with a white and blue pinstripe shirt, rolling up the sleeves and unbuttoning the top few buttons to make your look feel more casual.

Frequently Asked Questions About The Rolex Yacht-Master

What is the difference between the yacht master and the yacht master ii.

The standard Rolex Yacht-Master is a luxury-oriented sport watch that displays the time and date. The Yacht-Master II joined the Rolex lineup in 2007 and offers never before seen functionality thanks to its regatta timer. Powered by the Calibre 4161 — one of the most complicated Rolex movements ever made (second only to the annual calendar found in the Sky-Dweller — the Yacht-Master II has a patented mechanical memory and on-the-fly-synchronization used for the regatta timer. Additionally, the bezel is different on the Yacht-Master II because it controls part of the movement inside the case rather than just working as an external mechanism to help track elapsed time. The Rolex Yacht-Master II also has an entirely different aesthetic and features a larger 44m case with chronograph pushers on either side of the winding crown.

Is a Rolex Yacht Master a good investment?

Yes. The Rolex Yacht-Master is a good investment for collectors for two main reasons. For one, these watches have historically held great value because of their uniqueness and sportiness; however, at the present time, they remain somewhat undervalued compared to their siblings in the Rolex catalog. Consequently, they offer significant potential for appreciation in the future. Secondly, the Rolex Yacht-Master is a luxury watch and is often outfitted in precious metals. These precious metals inherently allow it to hold great value as the years go on, and its premium construction guarantees that it will always be worth something.

What was the Rolex Yacht-Master built to do?

The Rolex Yacht-Master was first created as a luxury sports watch, whereas the Yacht-Master II was built as a professional regatta timer with a luxury flare. Comparatively, the Yacht-Master can time events up to 60 minutes with its rotating bezel and the Yacht-Master II is outfitted with a countdown timer with flyback or fly-forward functionality to use when timing out a regatta race.

How do you use the Yachtmaster II?

While the Yacht-Master II looks quite complicated, Rolex has made sure that using it is actually quite intuitive. After setting the adjustable countdown timer to your desired setting, you start the time. Press the top button to start the countdown timer, then pressing the top button a second time will stop the timer. However, by pressing the bottom button while the chronograph is running, that will adjust the timer forwards or backward to the nearest minute — allowing it to be perfectly synchronized to the official race clock.

How can I spot a fake Rolex Yacht Master?

As with any Rolex watch, the clues are in the details. When it comes to the Yacht-Master, you’re going to want to look at details like the adjustable countdown timer, which is incredibly complicated, making it almost impossible for fake counterfeit watches to replicate. Additionally, Yacht-Master models are luxury sports watches crafted from the world’s best materials and to the highest possible standards. If you notice any defects like dial printing or finishing looks less than perfect, there is a good chance that you are dealing with a fake Rolex Yacht-Master.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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Rolex Yacht-Master & Yacht-Master II: The Comprehensive Guide to the King of Sailing Watches

The Rolex Yacht-Master occupies a prominent but, for many, difficult-to-define area within the company’s overall portfolio. It’s regarded as a popular dress watch but is firmly positioned within the “Professional” collection. It looks a lot like a Submariner but isn’t really a dive watch, so it’s really not like a Submariner at all. It’s designed as a men’s watch but has become a canvas for some very feminine executions. And unlike other Rolex models that offer an original “I” and a second-generation “II” version, like the GMT-Master and Explorer, the Yacht-Master I and II are scarcely related in their design or functions at all. And yet, the Yacht-Master remains a top-tier timepiece both for Rolex and its legions of fans, and in its relatively short span on the market has welcomed a number of innovative materials and technologies into the Rolex fold. Read on to discover more about the Rolex Yacht-Master (in all its various versions) and what makes the model unique among its Oyster Perpetual brethren.

1967 - 1969 - The Prototype: Cosmograph Yacht-Master

Rolex Cosmograph Yacht-Master, circa 1967 (photo: Rolex Magazine.com )

While the Yacht-Master as we know it today traces its genesis only to 1992, the name appeared on a Rolex dial several decades before — on a watch that resembled more an evolution of the Daytona than of the Submariner — indicating that a sailing-themed watch was something that Rolex had been tinkering with as an organization for some time. In 1967, shortly after the debut of the Cosmograph (soon to be the Cosmograph Daytona) in 1963, Rolex developed a chronograph wristwatch prototype, with a three-register “reverse panda” dial and a tachymeter scale that it dubbed the “Cosmograph Yacht-Master” ( Reference 6239/6242); at 39.5mm, it was larger than the core Daytona model, which at the time was a fairly modest 36mm. Also setting it apart from all of its siblings in that collection is the odd addition of a multicolored scale at the bottom left of the 3 o’clock subdial, presumably to be used in concert with the chronograph function for counting down to the start of a yachting regatta. Only three examples of this model, which appears to have never been commercially released, are known to exist, one of them once owned by guitar legend and Rolex super-collector Eric Clapton. 

1992 - Enter the “Luxury Submariner”

The first Rolex Yacht-Master in yellow gold (Ref.16628, circa 1992)

The Rolex braintrust never fully abandoned the idea of a nautically inspired boating watch to join the diving-tool Submariner (and eventually its more robust successor, the Sea-Dweller), and the Crown finally pulled the trigger on it in 1992. The Ref. 16628 model, which launched the modern Yacht-Master collection, was intended as a more luxurious version of the Submariner, at the time still regarded as more of an upscale tool watch than a dressy sport watch appropriate to be worn on the deck of a yacht. Accordingly, it looks a lot like the Submariner in its primary aesthetic and technical details. Its dial featured the same Mercedes handset; the same eclectic assortment of circles, rectangles, and triangles at the hour markers; and the same Cyclops lens-enhanced 3 o’clock date window that the Submariner acquired in 1969, along with a very similar rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale. 

Rolex Yacht-Master Ref. 16628 with mother-of-pearl dial (photo: Analog:Shift )

The main differences are in the execution. For several years at that point, the case of the Submariner had been boasting a water resistance rating of 300 meters (still a standard for the model today), while the Yacht-Master’s case came in at a respectable but much more pedestrian 100 meters — again, more suited for being worn above the water than under it. While the case diameter of the newcomer was the same — 40mm — it was, along with its Oyster bracelet, made of 18k yellow gold, while the vast majority of Submariners were still made of 904L “Oystersteel.” The aforementioned bezel offers the most distinguishing differences: it rotates in both directions rather than one, another indication that the watch’s primary role was not to time dives (in which case, a unidirectional bezel that tracked how long the wearer had been underwater, and couldn’t be inadvertently moved for an inaccurate reading, was the safest option) but to be used for a more versatile array of calculations including counting down to the start of a yacht race. The more outwardly notable difference from its diving predecessor was the bezel’s 60-minute scale, which was relief-engraved directly onto the precious metal surface rather than etched into an insert made of aluminum, bakelite, or (as it is nowadays) ceramic. The overall effect was more streamlined and, objectively, more “luxury” than “tool” or “sport.” The movement inside was the same as the one the Submariner used at the time — Rolex’s “Perpetual” (i.e., automatic) Caliber 3135. 

As you might surmise from the evidence at hand here, the Yacht-Master’s remarkable resemblance to the Submariner is the result of neither coincidence nor design laziness. As watch companies are apt to do occasionally, Rolex had the notion at one point, probably during the 1980s, to upgrade and revamp the look of the Submariner — which, it’s worth remembering, had not really changed much since its debut in 1953. According to industry lore, propagated by some who were involved at the time, one of those experiments yielded a watch that Rolex executives were very bullish about — but not bullish enough to actually pull the plug on the “old” Submariner design and replace it with the newer, more luxurious one, hence the revival of the 1960s “Yacht-Master” name and the launch of what would be — until the debut of the Sky-Dweller in 2012 — Rolex’s newest product family.

1994 - 2005: Growing the Fleet: Midsize, Ladies, and Two-Tone Editions

In 1994, recognizing the potential unisex appeal of its first new timepiece collection since the Daytona, Rolex followed up the original Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master with a 35mm “Midsize” version (Ref. 68628) and an understatedly feminine 29mm “Lady Yacht-Master” model (Ref. 69628) Both were in yellow-gold, and both were powered by Rolex’s self-winding Caliber 2135, with a 42-hour power reserve. It was the first time in Rolex’s history that a model from its “Professional” series, which includes traditionally male-targeted models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona, was offered in a smaller case size than that of the original. Even in the core 40mm sizes, the Yacht-Master template established in 1992 proved to be ideal for more decorative treatments; over the years, Rolex has released versions of the Yacht-Master 40 with ruby, sapphire, and diamond-set hour markers, mother-of-pearl dials, and even fully paved diamond-set dials.

In what would become something of a tradition for the series going forward, Rolex unveiled the first Yacht-Master with a bi-material construction in 1999. The Ref. 16622 boasted a 40mm case that combines stainless steel (for the case middle, caseback, and Oyster bracelet) and 950 platinum (for the relief-engraved bezel and the dial) in a somewhat monochromatic hybrid that the company refers to as “Rolesium.” Another bi-metal Yacht-Master iteration, one more striking in the tonal contrasts of its materials, arrived in 2005, the first “Rolesor” model, with Oystersteel and yellow gold used for the case and bracelet. That watch, Ref. 16623, was available in a variety of dial colors, including champagne, blue, and brown, and even a mother-of-pearl version.

Rolex Yacht-Master Ref.  16623 "Rolesium"

2007: Regatta Revolution: The First Yacht-Master II

In 2007, Rolex introduced the next generation of the Yacht-Master, and it was not only a significant departure from its predecessor; it was also, in a way, a return to the “Cosmograph” functionality of the 1960s prototypes. In actuality, the Yacht-Master II, first issued in a 44mm case in yellow gold (Ref. 116688) or white gold (Ref. 116689), is more appropriately described as a separate family of watches than as a branch of the main Yacht-Master series. For one thing, the movement that debuted inside the watch, Caliber 4160, was entirely new. Technically speaking, it’s a descendant of the Caliber 4130 found in Daytona models, and Rolex’s first in-house caliber to incorporate a built-in regatta countdown feature. For another, place a Yacht-Master II next to a “regular” Yacht-Master and they look, really, nothing alike. The bidirectional bezel of the Yacht-Master II is emblazoned not with the diving-inspired 60-minute scale of its smaller sibling but a countdown scale, with Arabic numerals starting with “10” and concluding at “0” spanning a semicircular arc from approximately the 8 o’clock to the 4 o’clock positions. A similar descending 10-to-0 scale is featured on the dial, positioned inside the border of the small rectangular hour markers and above the running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The bezel insert, made of Cerachrom, Rolex’s patented ceramic alloy, is also much more Submariner-like than Yacht-Master-like.

The first Rolex Yacht-Master II, circa 2007

The chronometer-certified movement offered not only a column-wheel driven chronograph function but an exclusive regatta countdown device, developed in-house by Rolex, that can be pre-set for intervals up to 10 minutes and whose mechanical “memory” allows it to be re-set to a previously used countdown duration. Once the watch’s countdown function is engaged, it can even be adjusted on the fly to synchronize with the precise, “official” countdown that initiates the crucial starting sequence of every regatta. While it was undeniably luxurious in its trappings — available in several precious metal options, as well as, eventually, in steel — the message delivered by the Yacht-Master II was clear: this was a watch for actual boat skippers, not just plutocrat boat owners.

Despite the niche appeal of the Yacht-Master II’s sailing-specific complication — or, perhaps because this appeal never became more widespread among Rolex fans in general — the Yacht-Master II was discontinued in 2024. Its most recent upgrades were fairly subtle: as of the all-steel Ref. 11680 introduced in 2013, the movement inside shifted to Caliber 4161, which (according to Rolex) improved upon the 4160’s reliability and the user-friendliness of its pushers.

2015: Everose Meets Oysterflex

Even before the decision to retire the Yacht-Master II from the lineup, throughout  the past decade it has been the original, core Yacht-Master model, the one without the regatta timer, that has received the most attention from the brand, with more firsts for the model arriving in 2015. The Ref. 116655, launched at that year’s Baselworld watch fair, was the first Yacht-Master with a case made from Rolex’s proprietary rose-gold alloy called Everose gold, and the first to contain a movement meeting Rolex’s “Superlative Chronometer” standard that was rolled out the same year. Its bezel was executed in black Cerachrom, albeit with the same relief-style scale as its metal predecessors rather than the etched scale of the Submariner. What many remember best is that it was also the first watch to be mounted on Rolex’s innovative Oysterflex bracelet — which on its exterior resembles a fairly traditional black rubber strap but on its interior is equipped with a patented “longitudinal cushion” system, made up of nickel-titanium blades inside an elastomer coating. The patented design gives an Oysterflex the suppleness and comfort of a strap while still providing the robustness and stability of a bracelet, and this style of wristlet has been a mainstay within Rolex’s “Professional” series of watches ever since, though still most closely associated with the Yacht-Master. Somewhat more quietly in that same year of big Yacht-Master moves, Rolex discontinued the 35mm Midsize and 29mm Ladies models, replacing them with a new series of arguably more “unisex” 37mm Yacht-Masters; today, this represents the smallest option within the collection.

2019: A Bigger Boat with a Better Engine: Introducing the Yacht-Master 42

The core Yacht-Master collection welcomed a new size and a new movement in 2019. For the first time since the debut of the 40mm original, the case size was increased, to 42mm, in the white-gold-cased Ref. 226659. It was, somewhat surprisingly for a watch that had undergone so many luxurious iterations in its history, the first time that particular precious metal had been employed for a Yacht-Master case. The watch’s Cerachrom bezel insert was in matte-black, to match the dial, and featured the same relief-raised scale and numerals as its 40mm siblings. The Yacht-Master 42 also marked the first use of the “Superlative Chronometer” Caliber 3235 in the Yacht-Master family.

Rolex Caliber 3235

In production since 2015, Caliber 3235 is one of Rolex’s most optimized in-house calibers and has been gradually replacing the venerable 3135 in many of the brand’s three-hand-date models, from the basic Datejust to the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and Yacht-Master. The movement’s host of talking points includes the patented “Chronergy” escapement, made of magnetism-resistant nickel phosphorus that renders the movement both highly energy efficient and extremely durable; the Rolex-exclusive blued Parachrom hairspring that gives the oscillator a greater level of resistance to magnetism and shocks; and the lengthy 72-hour power reserve and industry-leading “Superlative Chronometer” accuracy to +/- 2 seconds per day. 

2023: Sailing to the Future in Titanium

Rolex is famously of the “slow and steady wins the race” philosophy when it comes to adopting new materials and buying into industry trends in general. The brand waited until 2022 to make its first watch case in titanium (specifically grade 5 titanium, which Rolex — of course — calls by its own in-house moniker of RLX Titanium) — and that watch, the 50mm, 36,000-meter water resistant Deepsea Challenge, was anything but an everyday timepiece. One year later, it was a Yacht-Master, in the recently established 42mm case size, that ushered RLX titanium into more wearable territory. RLX titanium is a strong, corrosion-resistant and very lightweight alloy, with a technical satin finish lending it a sleek, subtly grainy texture. The watch’s case is milled from a single block of the material and is enhanced with shiny polished facets that help to frame and elegantly define its broader satin-finished surfaces. The black dial — Rolex calls it “intense black” and who am I to disagree? — has its own grained texture, and the titanium bracelet is fitted with ceramic inserts and equipped with the brand’s Easylink extension system for maximum wearing comfort. Inside beats the reliable and increasingly ubiquitous Rolex Superlative Chronometer Caliber 3235.

In a way, the latest model finally brings the Yacht-Master from its “luxury Submariner” origins to what many feel is its proper tool-watch identity. It will be intriguing to see if future versions of the Yacht-Master — now that the original model stands alone, without its chronograph-countdown sibling, as the Rolex watch for sailors and other seaborne sojourners — venture more into the placid waves of dress-watch elegance or the churning whitewater of regatta-race utility. Knowing Rolex, it’s likely to be the most crowd-pleasing combination of both. 

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