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SCAMP Review in Small Craft Advisor Magazine!

by GHBoats Webmaster | Oct 20, 2017 | Press Reviews , SCAMP

Exciting news that’s been a long time coming . . . the Small Craft Advisor magazine released their first formal review of the SCAMP! 

For a bit of backstory, the SCAMP, which stands for S mall C raft A dvisor M agazine P roject, was originally conceived by the magazine as a kit boat that would meet the needs of adventurous small craft sailors.  It was designed by a team of passionate and knowledgeable small-craft experts that Small Craft Advisor brought together to build something of the “ideal” capable and fun small craft. 

You can see how that history might have made Small Craft Advisor hesitant to review a boat of its own design.  As the article says, “Given our involvement with the boat and our predictable biases, we weren’t sure we’d ever publish a formal Review article. However with the passing years and more sailing hours being logged, more owners are available to offer feedback making us confident we can offer a reasonably impartial review of our magazine’s little flagship…”

Our own Falk and Dave were involved in the effort, and we hosted SCAMP events right here in our shop in Gig Harbor as we prepared to adapt the design to fiberglass.      

From the archives: The SCAMP rendezvous meeting at the shop

The 6-page review covers the SCAMP as a whole, including both kit-constructed models as well as the fiberglass version made by us here at Gig Harbor Boat Works.  It is filled with the personal feedback of both DIY builders and those who’ve purchased our fiberglass boats ready to sail, and it quotes several other press reviews as well.  

We’ve republished a few excerpts here – but the whole thing is worth reading.  For the full article, please see the check out the Nov/Dec issue of  Small Craft Advisor .  (Note: the PDF issue is  available for purchase here .)   

SCAMP Review

This distinctive microcruiser with unusual features has established a cult following.

It all started simply enough. We were on a 150-mile cruise down the Columbia River on our 16-foot sailboat and, even though the boat drew only two feet, we kept coming upon even shallower tributaries and backwaters we longed to explore. The perfect boat for this kind of sailing, we thought, was smaller and simpler, rowable, with a flat bottom and skegs so we could take the ground and wait out the tide if we wanted—a boat that would allow us to explore deeper into the tidal zones and along the water’s edge. To camp comfortably we’d want some accommodations—a good sleeping berth, plenty of stowage, and some protection from the elements—but we didn’t want a fully enclosed cabin, which would be claustrophobic on a boat this size and possibly even dangerous. A partial cabin would be better. We also recognized this was a big river and we saw how rough it could get when the wind blew against the current—this little boat would also have to be seaworthy.

Scamp has been called “sneaky fast,” and compared to a bumblebee for flying better than its shape suggests it should. However you want to say it, Scamp’s performance tends to surprise folks.

 . . .

While not a planing boat, Scamp does get up to hull speed quickly and, being generously canvassed, will move in just a whisper of wind. At only 11’11” long it won’t keep up with the fastest 15 to 18-footers, but it will literally sail circles around the slower ones.

Finally, it’s the boat’s extreme maneuverability that might be her best performance feature. With a single sheet and no shrouds or stays, a sailor can put the helm hard over and Scamp will do circles in little more than her hull length, making her quite capable of sailing into marinas or other tight quarters.

Josh Colvin signals his approval of the prototype Gig Harbor fiberglass Scamp. Photo by Debra Colvin for Small Craft Advisor.

At 420 pounds empty, Scamp is light enough to be trailered by many smaller 4-cylinder vehicles, and an important corollary is that she’s light enough to reposition on her trailer in a garage, or push her bow off the shore when beached.

“Have come to really like the simplicity and ease of sailing with the balanced lug sail.” Todd & Jan Sellick, Litle Bark, GH Scamp. 

Where a lot of popular trailerable sailboats are not recoverable after capsize, needing a tow or assistance to right and/or pump out, Scamp was designed with self-rescue in mind. In the event the boat is knocked down she will remain afloat and can usually be righted, re-boarded and sailed away—often without needing much or any bailing. 

“Tender to about 10 to 15 degrees then it stiffness up quickly. The boat likes the first reef at 12 to 15 mph winds. The 2nd reef at about 22 mph. Once reefed the boat settles down nicely.” Paul Stovner, Frisky 2015 Gig Harbor Model #367

Few categories are more subjective than sailboat accommodations. Just like with terrestrial camping, where some folks think of backpacks and bivy tents, others imagine motorhomes and microwave ovens. The latter group will find Scamp wanting, but the former will be embarrassed by its excesses.

Todd and Jan Sellick’s shot of their ‘glass Scamp Little Bark nosed up to a small island at the east end of Bigstone Bay, on Lake of the Woods, Ontario.

The so-called “glass Scamp” is a perfect match for its wooden sisterships, with no noticeable differences in performance or handling. Certain systems, like the water ballast, lend themselves well to low-maintenance fiberglass construction .  Instead of wood, Gig Harbor uses rugged composite materials for things like thwarts and foils. 

The Gig Harbor version also employs a two-piece aluminum mast (powder coated in a tan color) that can be broken down for travel stowage. As it’s even lighter than a birdsmouth wooden equivalent, many Scamp builders have opted for the Gig Harbor masts and built their own booms and yards.

“ Very good quality. The boat is two years old and looks new with no gel coat cracks. No issues or failures with the hardware. Very sturdy and ready to take heavy weather. Only flexing is the lower portion backrest coaming in the cockpit. This seems to have no effect on the operation of the boat. No delaminations.” Paul Stovner, Frisky 2015 Gig Harbor Model #367

One question we get now and then is whether someone ought to buy a glass Scamp or build their own. We think the answer is easy: If you’re truly excited about building your own boat and have the time, then go with the kit. If you just like the design and want to go sailing, buy the Gig Harbor model. You’ll probably save money if you build your own, but only if you don’t factor in your time.

“ Very good value, better than a Potter 15 for performance and ease to set up, and more comfortable to sail.” Paul Stovner, Frisky 2015 Gig Harbor Model

Needless to say, SCAMP has surpassed our expectations both as a boat design and in terms of its overall popularity. In addition to proving itself the capable beach-cruiser and backwater explorer we’d imagined, the little boat has inspired adventures, sparked friendships, and drawn new sailors and builders into our small-boat community.

Want to learn more about our fiberglass SCAMP’s creation?   Browse through the SCAMP archives!

What’s the first step of building a new fiberglass boat? Building a wood one!

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Campy's "WICKED BEAT"

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Friday, February 1, 2019

Building scamp, an 11 foot long, wood sailboat..

Keep us all up to date with picture's. Sounds like fun...

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Steps in Building a SCAMP sailboat

Links to all my scamp building pages.

Building a Scamp Sailboat Building the Frame

While I have spent quite a lot of time making the mast, centreboard and rudder, and cutting out all the main parts of the boat, it does not look like much. This is about to change as I start to go 3-D.

The SCAMP is built right side up at first, on a curved platform. This platform not only gives the proper curvature to the bottom of the hull but also keeps the boat at a comfortable height to work.

The summer had been excruciatingly hot and humid and the shop had only been used for making 2 sets of Jinga boards. Everything had a thick coat of sawdust and all the boat parts were flat on the floor here and there to prevent warpage.

I spent a happy day or two getting ready and moving things around to make enough space for the frame.

I then dug up the chip board panels I had bought in the spring and cut a piece to make the panel long enough. The Scamp is just short of 12 feet so I had to add some extra wood. No fancy joint, just a butt joint glued and with a plywood patch on top.

I used my Makita circular saw. It is my least favourite tool and the dislike is totally unwarranted. This little saw has worked well for almost 25 years, cuts well, I've never really had a kickback or any bad thing happen with it. It is accurate, powerful and easy to set up and control. It's irrational.

I measured, put small nails on the spots and used a plywood batten to join the points. No problem getting a fair curve.

I used the jig saw to cut the board. Not fast but works fine.

2 sides of the frame are cut and set aside. I will put them back to back to check curve and make sure they are equal.

I'll do a quick sand to adjust any little quirk but they both look fine.

I remembered that my crosscut sled had finally given up so I made a new one.

I needed one to make the cross pieces on the frame and it's faster and more accurate to cut on the table saw using a sled. I had lots of bits of panel around.

After that it took no time at all to cut the cross pieces for the frame.

All the parts of the frame are here. I need to assemble them and then build the legs to bring the frame to a suitable height.

Here are the 4 sets of legs. They are ugly but quite accurate and very square. I used up lots of bits I had around when old cabinets and a wall were removed. It took a while to get all the nails and screws out but the lumber was dry and sound.

I clamped the 2 sides of the frame and compared them. They were pretty much the same. They were off about the thickness of the small nail in a couple of places. I sanded the 2 sides together and now they are exactly the same. 40 grit on the Random Orbital Sander works as well as a belt sander for small spots and easier to handle for me. The grain is too irregular to use the planes.

I could not think of a good way to easily attach the crosspieces. They don't span the whole depth of the frame and they need to be lined up with the top that is curved. In the end I attached 2X2 supports along my very accurate drafting lines and attached the crosspieces to that first then through the side.

Everything is nasty particle board with no strength for holding screws. I think the supports and the screws through the side will be just fine.

This worked very well and went quite fast once I had figured out a way. It took me all afternoon to make the legs and attach the crosspieces to one side. It always takes a lot of time the first time and there is seldom a second time! plus I'm slow anyway.

I've left a few clamps I used to position the pieces to help support them when I turn the side around. I'm not using any glue because I want to be able to take this apart when I'm done.

After aligning the legs close to their final position, I turned the first side with it's attached crosspieces and added a few temporary supports.

The temporary supports keep the crosspieces level. I went around and screwed the side on. I added 2x2 support and screwed the legs to the side.

This worked very well and I had very little pulling and adjusting to do. I had very accurate positioning lines drawn on the side from the drafting so I just alligned the crosspieces to this.

I had cut 6 wide extra crosspieces for the bottom. No photos. The plan asked for a bottom to the frame but the wood was so heavy that I decided to add wide boards instead. I'm a not very strong oldish lady and I could not find an easy way of moving this sheet around. It is dead solid anyway.

I need to trim the edge of the crosspieces so they match the angle of the curve. I did that with the sander.

I checked the square, the level and the diagonals and everything is quite good. My diagonals are just short of an eight of an inch out of square. I don't think this will matter. Every thing else is good.

I measured to make sure there was enough clearance around the frame to comfortably work on the boat. After doing a final leveling with little wedges under the legs, I screwed the frame to the floor.

Soon there is going to be a boat on this frame.

NOTE: When I started installing the stem I found that the base was about a quarter inch too high for the stem to fit properly. (The stem is the piece that attaches to the bottom of the boat. It also supports the front flat panel at the bow.)I suspect that this was the result of the thickness of the cross piece on the front of the frame. Once I beveled the crosspiece the stem fit better. It fell in place properly after I beveled the second crosspiece from the bow. So before you attach the bottom, take your stem piece and check that it fits properly because many things attach to this and it is very important to get it right.

emails: Christine

If you decide to build a boat be careful. These tools can be dangerous. If you don't know how to safely handle something find out. There are lots of forums out there.

This web site reflects my personal ideas and doesn't represent anyone else's point of view. I don't claim to be an expert in anything, just someone muddling along.

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SCAMP Sailboat

Our own youthful dreams often featured small boats in starring roles. Aboard these simple, stalwart little vessels we'd venture across nebulous bodies of water in search of distant wild shorelines or uncharted islands. We'd land, hike into the interior, and make camp. But always our boats offered refuge from any threat, including summer storms, which we'd wait out beneath our boom tents. At night we'd read sea stories by oil lantern and sleep under a blanket of stars.

Curiously, never once did these visions include negative images of wrestling with a heavy mast and complex rigging, fussing with a smelly, recalcitrant outboard, or being held off shore by our boat's draft. And even when we pictured the afternoon breeze kicking up whitecaps, never once did the vision include a chilly capsize.

It was the dream of returning to those simple pleasures that inspired thoughts of S.C.A.M.P. (Small Craft Advisor Magazine Project). That and a persistent desire to go over "there" - that place we often see but are unable to reach. It seems to happen on every cruise. Never mind that we're usually sailing the smallest boat around for miles, we always come upon some ultra-shallow lagoon or serpentine tidal stream that disappears into the reeds, trees and rushes. To get in there - to really commune with nature - a boat needs to be light, shallow and easily propelled - and preferably flat-bottomed in case we decide to stay right though the ebb. —SCA

Features: Water Ballast Tank • Offset centerboard • Massive Flotation Stowage Cabin • "Veranda" Overhanging Cabintop • Kickup Rudder Flat Bottom and Skegs for Beaching • Voluminous Stowage Lockers 8' 3" Cockpit Sole Single Berth • Convert Cockpit Seats to Double Berth

Original Designer: John Welsford • Design Development: Kees Prins •  Kit Adaptation: Turn Point Design

For more SCAMP discussion visit our Scamp Forum here. SCAMP's FaceBook page is here.

You can view the International SCAMP Registry to see where owners are located around the world.

A Boat Called SCAMP by Dick Herman

SCAMP Foils Kit

SCAMP Package: Every Article We've Published on SCAMP (issue #63 to #75)

SCAMP Mini Microcruiser Plans

SCAMP CNC Building Kit

SCAMP Class Sail (100 sq ft lugsail)

Official SCAMP Design Logo Burgee

Complete SCAMP building plans. Eight detailed 24 x 36" printed plans sheets plus the detailed spiral-bound SCAMP Builders Manual. Welcome aboard!

SCAMP Building Plans

Small Craft Advisor

Boat Designs: Evaluating SCAMP’S Big Sister

(this new welsford cruiser checks a lot of boxes…).

Over the past few days I’ve had email exchanges with John Welsford, New Zealand designer, regarding a brainstorm that’s been percolating in his clever, whimsical noggin: A bigger, more commodious takeoff on his wildly popular SCAMP design.

As most SCA readers know, the 11’ 11” SCAMP design was conceived 13 years ago when Josh Colvin, editor of this fine publication, asked Welsford to come up with a new kind of small cruising boat—one small enough to explore the most hard-to-penetrate backwaters, while being easy to rig, light enough to trailer with the smallest of tow vehicles, surprisingly great under sail, and comfy for overnight camp-cruising adventures. So, following some tweaks by designer and master boatbuilder Kees Prins, the resulting sailboat was dubbed SCAMP, for Small Craft Advisor Magazine Project.

SCAMP DRAWING…

The rest is history: More building plans and kits for SCAMP have been sold over the years than any other small cruising boat we can think of. Besides the original wooden version, Gig Harbor Boat Works was licensed in 2013 to produce a fiberglass SCAMP, and the little giant killer—in wood and fiberglass—has since its debut been at the center of various small-boat rallies, workshops and sailing events.

While SCAMPs are still being built worldwide by enthusiasts, plan and kit sales have slowly been approaching what might be a kind of saturation point. It’s not that “everyone who wants a SCAMP has already built one,” but we get the feeling that it’s time for something new and different—like a SCAMP-inspired design that has the personality and quirky appeal of the original boat, but with more creature comforts (for an aging population of SCAMP lovers).

Meet SCALLYWAG, John Welsford’s big sister to SCAMP, a 15’ 4” x 7’ 3” wonder with a “real” cabin, tabernacle mast, mizzen sail, powerful main, water-ballast tanks, sitting headroom down below…and like SCAMP, faster than many onlookers might expect.

SCALLYWAG DRAWING…

This might turn out to be a timely, common-sense follow-up to the successful SCAMP design—so tempting that John Welsford is talking about building one for himself.

(As a footnote, we might add that in 2008, prior to the introduction of SCAMP in 2010, Welsford came up with another design that was similar to but somewhat larger than SCAMP—called TREAD LIGHTLY, which measured 13’ overall, with a beam of 5’ and addition of a mizzen. The series of similar hulls began with PEANUTS, an experimental build that never quite made the plans list. That design led to TENDER BEHIND, then SHERPA, then TREAD LIGHTLY, then SCAMP, then SCRAPS and now SCALLYWAG. Quite a series!)

TREAD LIGHTLY drawing…immediate predecessor to SCAMP)

Here is John Welsford’s description of the SCALLYWAG design:

“I’ve had a number of people tell me they love SCAMP, but they’d like a ‘real’ cabin—something that would provide shelter for a couple of friends to overnight out of the rain; somewhere with space enough for four to sit and chat over coffee or rum on a cold evening; somewhere with a bench for a cooker, a table to eat the food off of, and lockers for all the essentials…and room for the skipper and first mate to stretch out and sleep in comfort.

“SCALLYWAG is not so big as to make launching and retrieving a chore; her mainmast is in a tabernacle, which makes standing it up easy-peasy for clients who don’t like the idea of lifting a mast that size vertically into place. Her mizzen is light enough to not be a worry, too, in that respect.

“The rig is a powerful one, but easy to access for reefing, and she will heave to under mizzen with the main let free so she sits mostly head-to-wind, dry and restful if a gust has to be waited out.

“I’ve added a pair of big water tanks for ballast, so with that and her beamy shape she’ll be very stable. Her cockpit self-drains, the motor is inside the tall transom for easy access, and while there’s room in the cockpit for four, she’ll be easy to single-hand and relaxing to sail.

“While the relationship between SCALLYWAG and SCAMP is obvious, it’s not just the styling. The backroom calculations in hydrodynamics suggest she’ll handle well, and be faster than many expect. With high stability and the ability to sit upright when aground, she’ll be able to transition from hiding in the mud or sand up a creek somewhere, to making a longer coastal passage without any fuss.

“Construction is simply plywood over ply bulkheads, with stringers to line everything up, and with considerable buoyancy just in case. The plans will have scale drawings of all major components, and we anticipate soon having printable full-sized templates for frames and other key items.”

As for specifications, beyond the overall length of 15’ 4” and beam of 7’ 3,” SCALLYWAG will have board-up draft of 10,” a board-down draft of 3’ 4,” a total sail area of 143 s.f. and a fully-rigged dry weight of 750 lbs. (Incidentally, the beam-to-length ratios of SCAMP and SCALLYWAG are almost identical.)

John Welsford says that plans for SCALLYWAG will be available on December 1, but he can take orders in the meantime. Price will be $245 U.S. funds for emailed, printable PDFs, and the plans can be ordered via John’s website: jwboatdesigns.co.nz (Joel Bergen, well-known for the Welsford Navigator he built and sails in many Northwest small-boat events, will be developing a set of SCALLYWAG patterns in the not-distant future, according to Welsford. Editor’s note: We heard from Joel yesterday; he’s hoping to develop CAD-produced patterns “in a few weeks,” now that he’s received initial SCALLYWAG drawings. Stay tuned; we’ll provide updates on plans and patterns in this space.)

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE SCALLYWAG DESIGN:

Eager to hear what SCAMP-savvy friends might have to say about the SCALLYWAG specs and just-released drawing, we sought initial reactions from…

JOSH COLVIN, editor of Small Craft Advisor , who commissioned the SCAMP design in 2010 and enjoys sailing SCAMP #1:

“There’s certainly no doubt who designed this one! It looks almost as much like Welsford’s PENGUIN as a SCAMP. SCALLYWAG’s length is a sweet spot in terms of accommodations potential. She’ll be rowed less than most SCAMPs, but I love the inboard motor well to keep her lines clean, and the engine right at hand. But her most exciting feature is the addition of the mizzen, which will improve seaworthiness and make managing the mainsail easier.

“Between LONG STEPS and SCALLYWAG, those looking for something like SCAMP, but larger, have great options. I’m excited to see the first boat built—she will be bigger than most expect, just looking at the drawing.” SIMEON BALDWIN, builder of an early SCAMP who has perhaps sailed more nautical miles with a SCAMP than anyone…and who has also served as a generous advisor to fellow SCAMP builders and is an expert on rigging and sailing the little 11’ 11” boats:

“I like what I see of this long-rumored design. Knowing John and his attention to ergonomics, I can anticipate it will work well. The tabernacled mast and addition of a mizzen are most appealing.

“From the drawing I think it may resemble LONG STEPS in terms of the recessed footwell. It also appears he is eschewing a by-design lazarette made popular by many SCAMP owners.

“The double water tanks are something to contemplate. I don’t envision SCALLYWAG as a purpose-built racer with crew, actively keeping high-side ballast on long tacks, like the SKATE 15 that Brandon Davis designed, which utilizes two tanks and a dump-valve system that may be more elaborate than a typical cruising sailor would want to live with. But John may be describing two water tanks that are filled and remain separate from one another.”

(Editor’s note: Welsford’s comment on tanks, “The ballast tanks are linked, and they’re not far enough off the centerline to work independently. There is one each side of the aft end of the centerboard case and they go out as far as the seat-front extensions.”)

“I’m looking forward to how all of this works out!”

BRANDON DAVIS, of Turn Point Design in Port Townsend, whose company cuts CNC kits for the SCAMP and a variety of other small boats. Brandon is also a skilled designer and small-boat sailor:

“I really like this boat, since it has just enough room to have a cabin but it’s still small enough to be trailered, beached and easily built in a garage. The enclosed cabin should encourage longer trips or taking a friend along.

“The longer waterline should increase average sailing speeds. My guess is that rowing speed will be lower than the SCAMP, as the rower will not be able to take advantage of the waterline length because of her weight.

“Will SCALLYWAG be offered as a kit? I could see it selling well as a kit and the market could be ripe. Many SCAMP builders might consider this as their next build.

“I look forward to seeing the first SCALLYWAGs on the water!”

KEES PRINS, designer and boatbuilder, who constructed the first SCAMP while serving as boatshop manager at the Northwest Maritime Center…and in the process suggested and implemented some changes that improved the design:

“I think SCALLYWAG will find a great following in the SCAMP world and beyond. Adding a cabin will greatly enlarge the ‘SCAMP Crowd.’ At that beam, and with twin ballast tanks, stability should be enormous for a boat this length. I would have liked to see a cross section through the cabin to know more about sitting comfort. (Four people hanging out inside seems a little optimistic, but two should be comfortable.)

“I’m curious about what the tabernacle for the unsupported mast will look like. A big sail area, together with a stiff hull will induce a significant load on the tabernacle. There seems to be a deep well for the mast base to swing through, judging by the drain hole.

“All in all, SCALLYWAG looks very promising.”

OSCAR LIND, a serious student of all various small-boat designs , and earlier builder of a SCAMP, who shares at least one thing in common with John Welsford—they’ve never met a pun they didn’t like:

“I might have to clear out the shop and make as much room as possible to build this boat (due to the 7’ 3” beam, especially). It’s so tempting and fills the bill for usability and function.

“It does need a Chinese lug rig, though. I expect quite a few SCALLYWAGS will ultimately be built.”

(Editor’s note: John Welsford comments, “I like the Chinese lugsail, but for a sail of this size on a boat that will be trailered, rigged and derigged for each outing and dry-stored, the extra complexity of the Junk sail slows the process. As well, the balanced lug is in my experience, a little quicker upwind—unless the junk rig has cambered-panel sails, and there are few sailmakers producing those, so I think in this case, simplicity and performance get the nod.”)

As for my personal view as a serial boatbuilder, restorer and sometimes buyer of project boats, I enjoyed owning a SCAMP several years ago. While I loved sailing the boat, I wished it was bigger and included a sleeping cabin. So, John’s new SCALLYWAG design checks many more boxes as an all-around keeper, and I prefer its overall hull, cabin and rig design, not to mention its potential as a serious cruising machine.

So, once again, here’s a chance for you, as a fellow boat nut, to offer your evaluation of SCAMP and her newly-hatched big sister, SCALLYWAG. (Also, please add other thoughts in the comments section below…) • SCA •

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Scamp plan vs kit build cost

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Post by Jedi Clampette » Sun Apr 20, 2014 5:00 am

Re: Scamp plan vs kit build cost

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• SCAMP sailboat

SCAMP  sailboat

The SCAMP (acronym of Small Craft Advisor Magazine Project ) is a wooden hulled Balanced Lug rigged sailing dinghy. 

The boat is 3.63 m long, and capable of accommodating four persons on a daysail or one to two for overnighting or extended cruising. New Zealand boat designer, John Welsford considers it possibly the best boat he's designed, based on "suitability for purpose". While no particular feature of the boat is unprecedented, the combination of design elements has produced a "new genre of sailboat”.

Design elements

Pram bow - allows for a greater beam for any given length. Don't have to pull the forward plank ends together. More volume and therefore buoyancy forward.

Stowage cabin - The cuddy on SCAMP serves many purposes. The overhanging cabin top acts like a dodger and is large enough for an adult to sit athwartships out of the weather. Additionally, items in forward lockers can be accessed without water getting into storage area. Stowage cabin also houses a mast box that supports more of the mast than is possible with open boats. This in turn allows for an unstayed mast.

Balanced lug rig (Lug sail) - The balanced lug rig provides a number of advantages

Unstayed - no stays, sail can pivot all the way forward if need be increasing safety

The part of the sail in front of the mast "balances" the pressure of the wind on the sail. When tacking it catches the wind and helps the sail pivot across. When gybing it reduces the amount of force when the boom comes across. When running downwind it keeps the center of effort closer to the centerline of the boat reducing weather helm

Once the sail is raised, the sailor only has to manage one sheet, making it easy to singlehand.

The "off set-centerboard" is in a case that is on the starboard side of the cockpit under the seat. This provides for an unobstructed cockpit and a place to sleep when at anchor. The centerboard and the rudder are based on NACA airfoil shapes to provide lift when moving through the water.

Skegs - Two skegs are mounted on the bottom. These provide a flatter base to support the boat above the bottom when grounding or beaching for protection and leveling.

Buoyancy - SCAMP has five separate watertight buoyancy areas, forward under the cuddy, below the floor of the cuddy, the aft area under the cockpit, and each seat.

Water ballast - Centrally located under the cockpit sole, a water ballast chamber holds approximately 170 lb (77 kg) of ballast down low where it is most beneficial. This ballast can be emptied to facilitate easier rowing or trailering.

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