boom brake sailboat

Home » Blog » Gear » 3 Boom Brake Options + How to Rig a Boom Preventer on the Cheap [DIY]

3 Boom Brake Options + How to Rig a Boom Preventer on the Cheap [DIY]

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: November 20, 2023

For anyone who’s experienced an accidental jibe—with the boom whipping across the cockpit at dangerous velocities—the benefits of using a boom brake or jibe preventers will be obvious.

These simple rigging systems are easy to set up and can reduce some of the risks associated with downwind sailing .

Boom strikes can result in crew members being seriously injured or thrown overboard. According to a German study, boom strikes were identified as the most common cause of sailing injuries overall .

Uncontrolled jibes are also hard on your boat. Boom brakes can reduce stress on the rigging and can prevent breakages and material damage.

For these reasons, we invested in a Dutchman boom brake to take on our bluewater sail across the Pacific—and I’m so glad we did!

Over 13,000 nm (most of it downwind), we didn’t accidentally jibe once. Our boom brake was part of the reason, often buying us precious seconds to make a course correction when our mainsail began to backwind.

Waterborne is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

So, why doesn’t everyone have a boom brake on their boat? Well for one, it’s an additional line to manage (and some may see it as more clutter on deck), but mostly I think it’s because they can be so expensive.

Boom brakes can be pricey. However, there are plenty of affordable options, especially if you have a small to average-sized cruising boat.

You can also build a DIY preventer with a bit of line and a few blocks for next to nothing. I’ve included instructions on how to rig a boom preventer at the end of this post.

So, let’s start by diving into your options.

Boom brake vs preventer

The terms boom brake and preventer are often used interchangeably but there’s an important difference between the two.

A preventer stops the boom from rapidly swinging across the boat’s centerline . At its simplest, a boom preventer setup might consist of a line that runs from the end of the boom to a point on the deck forward of the mast.

One of the major drawbacks of a preventer is that it has to be released and resecured every time you jibe or change the point of sail. If you accidentally jibe and don’t release the preventer quickly enough, it can lead to excessive heel and a potential broach.

Boom brakes

A boom brake is a type of preventer that slows the boom as it crosses the centerline so that the jibe occurs in a more controlled fashion.

The main advantage of a properly tuned boom brake over a static preventer is that the boom isn’t kept in a back-winded position in a gybe. Instead, the boom brake slowly allows the boom to cross to the other side

The level of braking effect can be adjusted either by tensioning a brake line or by changing how the brake line runs through the brake.

There are three types of boom brakes:

Friction path boom brake

This is the simplest type of boom brake. The friction path boom brake is attached to a mid-point on the boom and the brake control line runs port to starboard, through the brake.

You can adjust the desired level of fiction by changing how you run the brake line through the brake.

• More affordable
• No moving parts
• Requires going forward to adjust the friction on the brake when wind conditions change or when you change your mainsail area (e.g., reefing).
• More challenging to tune the tension

The Capt’ Don boom brake is by far the most affordable boom brake on the market. It’s made from 14mm polished stainless steel and reportedly makes for easy installation. For the cruiser on a budget, this simple and robust boom brake will likely fit the bill.

One potential limitation is that it’s not meant to be used as a preventer and should only be rigged with enough tension to slow the boom travel.

Wichard Gyb’Easy

The Gyb’Easy boom brake is more expensive though it comes with Wichard’s proprietary Gyb’Flex 16m line and a mounting shackle. It can be used on mainsails with less than 430 sqft (40 sqm) in sail area .

Drum boom brake

Drum boom brakes have a fixed cylinder or drum. The brake line runs from port to starboard and is wrapped around the drum. The more wraps around the drum, the more friction is produced.

• Easy to tune the tension from the cockpit
• Must rerun brake line and add/remove wraps to adjust the maximum amount of friction

There used to be a few drum-style boom brakes on the market including the Fleming Gybomatic and Heinson. These two no longer seem to be available (at least online). Currently, drum boom brake options include:

Walder Boom Brake

$439 for Walder 203

Walder boom brakes come in a range of sizes. Their Walder 203 model costs $439 and is rated for boats 30 to 39 ft (9 to 12 m) in length with main sail areas of less than 450 sqft (42 sqm) They’re available in three finishes (aluminum, black, and titanium) and come with a 10-year warranty.

Scott Boomlock

The Scott Boomlock, made by Sailspar, has been called “The Rolls-Royce of boom brakes” and it doesn’t have a published list price, both of which would suggest that it’s a pretty premium option. One of its unique features is a separate line that can be used to lock the boom in different positions without changing the tension of the brake line. It also slides neatly into the track on the underside of the boom (rather than hanging like a pendant).

Adjustable sheave brake

An adjustable sheave brake uses two static sheaves and one adjustable sheave to tension the brake line.  The main advantage of an adjustable sheave brake is it’s very easy to adjust the tension for a wide range of wind conditions.

• Easy to adjust maximum friction with knobs on the boom brake for a somewhat wider variety of wind conditions
• Moving parts (though we never had an issue with performance or breakage)

Dutchman Boom Brake

$492 for Dutchman 500/500B

The Dutchman Boom Brake, made by Dutchmar, is unique and the only adjustable sheave-type brake. It comes in three sizes with the 500/500B model being designed for 30 to 45 ft (9-14m) boats and a maximum of 500 sqft (45 sqm) sail area.

Tension is controlled from the cockpit with a brake line. The maximum friction can be adjusted with knobs on the boom brake itself (though after the initial setup, we rarely touched them).

Under full tension, it worked like a preventer. With the tension off, the boom swings freely. Of course, it can be set for any degree of tension in between.

We found our Dutchman Boom Brake very easy to install and use. We bought it second hand and in three years of bluewater sailing and near-constant use, we never had an issue.

How to rig a boom preventer

Rigging a boom preventer is pretty straightforward. It requires line and a couple of blocks.

• Loop line to the outboard end of the boom with a long bowline. Make the loop long enough that you could undo the bowline without having to bring the boom to the center of the cockpit.
• Attach a turning block to a strong point on the deck forward of the mast (e.g., pad eyes, toe rail, anchor roller). When choosing the forward attachment location, keep in mind that the preventer will be strongest when the brake line runs perpendicular to the boom.
• Run the line from the end of the boom forward through the block and back to the cockpit where it can be trimmed with a cockpit winch and secured on a cleat.
• [Optional] Repeat the first three steps on the other side of the boat.

If you do not add the second boom brake line, a crew member will have to go forward and rerun the preventer line every time you jibe. You can avoid this by running two lines to the boom, one on each side of the boat. Simply tension the windward line and leave the leeward line lazy. When a jibe is made, release and take up the tension on the new side.

You’ll find there are lots of deck configurations for jibe-preventer rigging, and designs that can improve rope management, deck access, or ease of use. For example, some gybe preventers attach to the mid-point of the boom and others use pendants that are permanently attached to the boom.

I highly recommend experimenting with preventers and boom brakes. For newer sailors, they can take some of the scariness out of gybing, and for experienced sailors, they can add peace of mind.

May the wind always be at your back (and your jibes always be controlled).

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

Friday 10th of February 2023

I've used the Dutchman Boom Brake on my Mariner 36 sloop, "Sparkle Plenty" for many years. It keeps the boom under control. Besides taming an accidental jibe, the Boom Brake also makes boom travel smoother during tacks reaching off and up wind.

For downwind sailing, the Boom Brake becomes a backup for a traditional jibe preventer run from the cockpit forward to a turning block at the bow and back to a cleat or winch in the cockpit.

A variant of this is offered by legendary sailor and writer, Don Street, where the preventer line is split at a point opposite the mast. There a detachable line is run from the gooseneck of the boom with a clip. The preventer line from the cockpit is then clipped to the second part of the preventer line run from the bow. When it's time to jibe, a crewmember only needs to go forward to the mast to unclip the preventer. Once the jibe completes, the crewmember can reclip to a second preventer line run on the other side.

Don Street demonstrates this method, along with using the Boom Vang as a preventer by moving it forward of the mast and attaching to the rail; and the Boom Brake. Don's video is free to stream at https://www.sailflix.com/videos/erigging-boom-preventers

You can stream all of Don Street's how-to-sail and cruising videos, along with hundreds of other sailing videos, with a monthly or yearly subscription to https://www.sailflix.com. You can also rent or purchase individual videos at Sailflix.com and through Vimeo On Demand at https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thecompletestreet; and on TheSailingChannel.TV at https://www.thesailingchannel.tv/watch-outstanding-sailing-videos/don-street-sailing-tips-videos/

Very interesting about Don Street's preventer. Thanks for sharing!

Terms and Conditions - Privacy Policy

Berthon Winter Collection

Latest issue

August 2024

In the August 2024 issue of Yachting World magazine: News Few finish a tempestuous Round The Island Race European rules are eased for cruising to France and Greece Olympic sailing…

Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Boom preventers: How to use one and why they’re worth the hassle to rig

• February 20, 2020

The two minutes it takes to rig a boom preventer properly can pay off in so many ways, yet still a lot of sailors consider it an unnecessary hassle. Pip Hare begs to differ

Preventers should be rigged from the end of the boom to avoid damage in an accidental gybe

Rigging a boom preventer will allow you to sail a true downwind course without a constant worry about crew safety. I also use it to pin the boom in its preferred position in light winds with sloppy seas.

When racing short-handed with a symmetric spinnaker it also allows me to use aggressive windward heel to make extra metres to leeward. Here are a few of my top pointers for getting the most out of this valuable set-up.

Fixing point

The preventer should be attached to the outboard end of the boom to avoid damaging the tube in the event of an accidental gybe . Some boom end castings have a designated hole through which a preventer can be attached.

A large bowline loop (the red striped line) affixes the preventer to the boom. The knot can be reached without sheeting the boom in to the boat

If this is not the case then a large bowline loop passed around the end of the boom between the clew and the end casting will work just as well. The loop should be long enough so it can be undone from the side deck without the need to re-centre the boom.

Alternatively, to avoid hauling the boom in every time the preventer is required, make a strop around two-thirds of the length of the boom with an eye in both ends. One end can be permanently attached to the boom and the other will be attached to the running part of the preventer.

The strop can be accessed easily from within the footprint of the deck while the mainsail is out. When not in use, the strop can be tensioned with an elastic cord from either the kicker fitting or inboard boom casting.

Article continues below…

Video: 5 of the scariest accidental gybes – could you get out of these?

1. The Southern Ocean stormer VO70 MAPFRE buries into a wave at high speed, slows down and when the apparent…

Video – installing and testing a rope preventer and boom brakes to safely manage accidental gybes

  A shout, the mainsheet whips through the cockpit and the boom crashes onto the other side of the boat…

Think of the preventer as a part of your running rigging. It works in opposition to the mainsheet and so needs to be accessible from the cockpit and easy to trim in as you let the mainsail out. For maximum resistance to an involuntary gybe the preventer line should lead from the boom end as far forward as possible, then back to the cockpit.

I often use a forward mooring cleat in lieu of a turning block, making use of the fairlead to avoid toe-rail chafe. If you have no mooring cleats available then use a snatch block on the toe rail or mid-foredeck.

The preventer line should be trimmed from the cockpit using a winch. Often the best winches for this function are halyard winches as they tend not to be in permanent use. This may mean feeding your line under a sprayhood.

If you have absolutely no winches free, then it is also possible to take the line back along the deck to a stern mooring cleat. If choosing this option, check for chafe as the line passes down the deck and ensure the preventer leads into the cleat with a fair or open angle so it can be eased smoothly under load.

As soon as your preventer is rigged, make sure your crew are aware of what to do in the event of a gybe, both planned and accidental. For a planned gybe ease the preventer out as the mainsheet is pulled in. Once the attachment point can be reached safely, a crewmember should detach it, working from the leeward side of the boom in case of an early gybe.

Once gybed, set it up again on the other side. Accidental gybing with a preventer rigged can be alarming, especially in the dark, with the noise made by the sail and the windward heel of the boat. In most cases, if the main loads up from behind, the helmsman should gently steer the boat back onto the original gybe. Be aware that the windward heel caused by the backed mainsail will bear the boat away further, so take action promptly.

In the worst cases, boat speed will slow significantly, and steering the yacht back onto the original gybe becomes impossible. In this case the preventer must be eased under control. Make sure all crew are away from the path of the boom and traveller, then gently ease the preventer with sufficient wraps around the winch to maintain smooth control. Pull in the mainsheet as it becomes slack, then gybe the main as normal.

Boom preventer tips

• Do not tie off the preventer forward. This would require a crew member to go forward for a release in the event of a gybe, whether voluntary or not.
• Resist the temptation to improvise a ‘quick fix’ to avoid pulling in the main by, say, tying vang fittings to the toe rail.
• On longer passages regularly check your preventer for chafe, particularly where it crosses the toe rail, or if you are using a mooring cleat as a turning block.
• A preventer line should be around 1.5 times your boat length and the same diameter as your mainsheet. Double braid polyester is ideal.

First published in the September 2017 edition of Yachting World.

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Ericson 41 Used Boat Review

Mason 33 Used Boat Review

Beneteau 311, Catalina 310 and Hunter 326 Used Boat Comparison

Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

Getting the Most Out of Older Sails

How (Not) to Tie Your Boat to a Dock

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

Working with High-Tech Ropes

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Boat Repairs for the Technically Illiterate

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate: Part 1

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Mastering Precision Drilling: How to Use Drill Guides

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

• Safety & Seamanship
• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Controlling Jibes With Boom Brakes

Sea trials with the economy heinson , new dutchman, and the long-standing french-made walder boom brakes..

Ten years ago, you may recall having seen the Walder boom brake demonstrated at sailboat shows. There wasn’t anything quite like it. The device caught on for a time with single-handed racers, who liked the way it slowly eased the boom across during jibes. (Philippe Jeantot had one on Credit Agricole when he won the first BOC Challenge.) When your hands are full with jib sheets and the wheel or tiller, there’s too often the tendency not to pull in the mainsheet to minimize the shock load on the gooseneck when the boom slams across to the new tack.

The Walder is essentially a large sheave hung from a bail on the boom, about where a vang would attach. A line is wrapped around it, taking about three turns on the sheave; one end of the line is then tied to the deck to one side-at a stanchion, pad eye, whatever strong attachment point can be found. The other end may be run through a block and led aft to a cockpit winch for tensioning (or you can use a multiple-purchase block and tackle with cam). The friction ofthe line on the sheave is what slows the boom.

The Products/The Test

The Walder Boom Brake is available in three sizes for boats from about 20 to 60 feet. We used the middle-size, Model 203, with 5/16″ line, on our C&C 33 test boat. The entire unit is anodized aluminum. It sells for $350 plus $47 shipping (the 103 sells for $245, the 303 for $465; larger custom sizes are available).

From West Marine (Defender Industries and BOAT/U.S. also sell it) we bought a Heinson, the smaller of two available sizes, which sell at discount for $149 (boats to 39′) and $165 (boats to 50′). The drum and cheeks are hardcoat anodized aluminum. Instead of having fairleads on arms, like the Walder, the plastic leads are bolted to the cheeks. The instructions say to take four turns around the drum. The line is not included.

Martin Van Breems, who makes the popular Dutchman Sail Flaking System, sent us a prototype model of a unit he manufactures, which he calls the Dutchman Boom Brake. Van Breems imported the Walder from France for several years until recently when Walder felt not enough units were being sold. So he designed his own, feeling he could improve on the Walder’s already pretty good performance. His unit has three comparatively narrow aluminum sheavestwo side by side at the top, the third at the bottom-sandwiched between anodized aluminum cheeks. The top two are fixed, while the bottom turns, though it can be tightened by a large handle to provide additional friction and a means of fine tuning. Two rigging methods are provided for, the first as described above with a single control line led aft through a turning block, the other with a block and tackle led to the base of the mast and the control line led aft along the cabin top. The difference is basically where you want your control line to come from, the mast or deck. Also, the mast base method with block and tackle builds in a means of tensioning the brake, theoretically obviating the need for a winch. But in our tests, in heavy air all of the brakes are easier to properly tension with the added power of a winch. Cost of the Dutchman Van Breems sent us is $225, which he expects to be discounted to just under $200.

On a blustery October day, we sailed out into Rhode Island Sound, furled the jib, then rigged the three brakes. We executed a half-dozen or more jibes with each one, adjusting line tension each time in an effort to find the right amount of friction for the prevailing conditions. We repeated these trials on another boat on an even windier day, when it was gusting more than 20. These devices require some fiddling time to obtain the correct amount of friction for the prevailing winds. And every time wind speed changes, you need to retension the brake. If you can’t get the tension you need with the winch, you may need to change line size (larger diameter line increases friction), and/or the number of wraps on the sheave (in the case of the Walder and Heinson only).

Observations

Walder and Heinson promote the vanging qualities of their boom brakes, stating that you no longer need a vang. The Dutchman instructions, however, clearly state that the brake will work better with a separate vang. In the brochure, Van Breems explains his reasoning: “The Brake can function as the vang, as it will pull the boom down when tensioned. However, if the Brake is also the vang, when running off the wind and you release the tension on the Brake, the boom will rise. The tension on the Brake will not decrease much, which will make it harder to jibe. If the Brake and vang are separate, releasing the tension off the Brake will allow the Brake line to become more slack, for easier jibing.” Van Breems told us that all three of the brakes will perform better in conjunction with a vang, and we’re inclined to agree, though the differences may be apparent only at higher wind speeds.

After determining the correct amount of tension, each of these devices theoretically could be left alone to permit smooth jibing. In practice, however, we found ourselves having to overtension the line prior to initiating the jibe, then easing tension as the mainsail backed. Once you find the correct tension, it’s hands-off-until the wind speed changes.

But finding the right tension isn’t easy. Too much tension makes the brake act like a preventer, keeping the boom from moving at all. Too little tension and the boom slams across as if there were no brake at all. On most attempts, we found the brake at first would prevent a jibe, and as eased it would allow the boom to jibe too quickly-not as hard as a flying jibe, but harder than you should be able to achieve.

If and when you get it right, a brake works beautifully. And even if you don’t, it does eliminate having to haul the mainsheet in. It’s a very clever, useful piece of hardware that takes the fear out of jibing. The safety advantages are obvious.

There are two ways to look at boom brakes: For the average sailor, a brake might be viewed as just another piece of gear to clutter the deck. To the sailor who enjoys downwind sailing, wingand- wing or with a spinnaker, a boom brake could be a valuable piece of sailhandling gear to control jibes, act as a preventer (not as ideal as an endboom preventer), and for the odd job when holding the boom outboard to bring in a man-overboard or dinghy.

All three models work on the same principle, differing in the design of the drum or sheaves. We obtained the best results with the Walder and Dutchman, followed by the Heinson. The Dutchman, by virtue of its two tensioning mechanisms, probably works in a somewhat wider variety of wind conditions. And at nearly half the price of the mid-size Walder, we think it’s the best choice.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Safeguarding Sailors via Passage Guardian

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

What’s the Best Sailboats for Beginners?

Why Does A Sailboat Keel Fall Off?

The Perfect Family Sailboat! Hunter 27-2 – Boat Review

Pettit EZ-Poxy – How to Paint a Boat

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

• Competitions
• British Yachting Awards
• Southampton Boat Show
• Print Subscription
• Digital Subscription
• Single Issues
• Advertise with us

Your special offer

Subscribe to Sailing Today with Yachts & Yachting today!

Save 32% on the shop price when to subscribe for a year at just £39.95

Subscribe to Sailing Today with Yachts & Yachting!

Save 32% on the shop price when you subscribe for a year at just £39.95

Boom Brakes: Group Gear Test

Boom brakes help avoid catastrophic gybes so they are an invaluable addition to your boat. we look at seven in our group gear test, boom brakes on test.

The boom is the part of a yacht most likely to hurt you or your crew, writes Paul Stringer of the mile-building boatshare club Adventures at Sea . Accidental gybes and mainsail reefing/stowing are all activities where an uncontrolled boom is a danger. Boom brakes control the boom when gybing and immobilise it when reefing or stowing the mainsail.

The boom brakes fall into three categories – those using a drum around which the line is passed, those derivative of a ‘climbers 8’ and those that generate friction internally. Most can be adjusted either by reeving the line differently or by a mechanical adjustment of friction on the brake itself. We tested them all on Adventures at Sea’s Bavaria 38.

Fleming GyboMatic

The slightly unsophisticated appearance of this boom brake belies an ability to exert great control over the boom. A large diameter drum slung beneath the boom on two short strops, the friction line is guided on and off the drum by two ‘feeders’. No moving parts and robust construction will mean years of reliable service.

Friction line loads are relatively light which makes control from the cockpit easy. Super-effective even in 25kt, my notes say ‘exquisitely controllable’.

Walder 203C

Similar in concept to the Fleming GyboMatic, with a large diameter drum offering excellent control of braking. With a very nice finish, this brake wouldn’t look out of place on any yacht. Slightly higher line loads than the Fleming probably due to the fine finish on the drum.

Friction line loads are moderate and very controllable. It’s also very smart: it is available in three colours and comes with a 10-year guarantee. Superb.

Sailspar Scott Boomlock

Another drum-type boom brake, though with a smaller drum than the Fleming and Walder. Beautifully made, this brake came with the manufacturer’s fitting kit which is very complete. It slides into the track on the underside of the boom, which results in a very tidy installation, tight up beneath the boom. Uniquely among the brakes tested, the Scott has a second line which is lead back to the cockpit to operate a lock. One tug locks the boom in place irrespective of friction line tension.

Neat ‘factory style’ installation. Very controllable. The ability to lock the boom instantly for reefing or stowing the main safely without losing the setting on the friction line is a valuable asset. The Rolls-Royce of boom brakes, priced accordingly, but worth it

This is a highly regarded Swedish-made product that relies on hydraulic friction to slow the gybe. It is a hefty bit of engineering, rigged in much the same way as the others, with a line from side deck to side deck, then back to a cockpit clutch. However, although it is approved by a Swedish yacht insurer, we failed to get it to work correctly.

Unique among the brakes tested, this device routes the friction line around three sheaves sandwiched between two aluminium plates. The two upper sheaves are fixed, the resistance to rotation of the lower sheave is controlled by an adjusting knob. Braking effect is achieved through adjustment of friction line tension and the adjusting knob.

Presentable and very controllable, line loads moderate but having to go forward to attend to the adjusting knob is less than ideal.

At just $50 (c £40), this is the bargain of the bunch. A ‘climbers 8’ type, it is simple, just a polished stainless steel casting with no moving parts. In testing we did notice that line loads were higher for this type of brake and one does have to go forward to re-reeve the friction line as wind force varies. It did not disappoint, however, doing all that was required when enough tension was applied to the friction line.

Awesome value! Not as easy to modulate the braking effect as the larger drum type brakes but for the money, hard to beat.

Wichard Gybe Easy

Another ‘climbers 8’-type brake. Very nicely presented and finished, it is supplied with a length of Wichard’s proprietary Gybe Flex line and a mounting shackle. We found it difficult to modulate the braking effect using the Gybe Flex line, however when we used our regular test line, a length of pre-stretched 8mm, we had no difficulty achieving effective braking. As with the Dutchman and Capt. Don, adjustment requires going forward as the breeze varies.

Nicely made but not inexpensive. There were some issues with the supplied friction line. Worked well with our test line. Considerable friction line tension was needed to achieve good braking. Not as tuneable as the drum types.

• Flying Mantis: Foiling trimaran seeking new investor
• Sailing French Polynesia: The dangerous archipelago of Tuamotus

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Gear Test: Splash Robe

Gear Test: Shore2Sea Dry Bag

Armel le Cleac’h Interview: Reflections on the Ultimate Challenge

Offering a wealth of practical advice and a dynamic mix of in-depth boat, gear and equipment news, Sailing Today is written cover to cover by sailors, for sailors. Since its launch in 1997, the magazine has sealed its reputation for essential sailing information and advice.

• Telegraph.co.uk

ADVERTISING

© 2024 Chelsea Magazine Company , part of the Telegraph Media Group . | Terms & Conditions | Privacy Policy | Cookie Policy

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Video: Boom brakes and preventers tested

• Chris Beeson
• August 16, 2016

Boom brakes should help you to control the boom downwind. Duncan Kent finds out if they work

For a downwind passage of anything more than an hour or two, a boom brake or preventer can improve safety and provide reassurance Credit: Theodore Aitken

If you plan on sailing downwind for more than a short distance then you’ll most likely want to set a preventer to eliminate the risk of an accidental gybe. Without one, should the wind get behind the mainsail at any point causing a gybe, it could cause damage to the yacht or injury to her crew.

A proper preventer requires a long line from the end of the boom, forward to a turning block and then back to a clutch or jammer in the cockpit. If you plan to gybe intentionally, then it’s likely you won’t want to bother going forward to re-rig the preventer, so you’ll need to rig two preventers, one for each side; a cumbersome solution which encourages lines to get caught if gybing at night or in a hurry.

Alternatively, you could install a boom brake. As the name suggests, it’s primarily a device that slows the movement of the boom down when you’re gybing, but most, if set up correctly, can be used as a preventer as well.

We tested three on the market:

The Wichard Gyb’Easy

The Scott Boomlock

The Walder Boom Brake

See how they performed here:

The range of Walder® boom brakes is suitable for sailboats for mainsails up to 1180 Sq.ft.

Walder® 103.

Boat lenght 6 to 9 m. Available in 3 colors: Alu, Black, Titanium

Main sail < 220 Sq.ft

Walder® 203.

Boat lenght 9 to 12 m. Available in 3 colors: Alu, Black, Titanium

Main sail < 450 Sq.ft

Walder® 203 c, product advantage: double stainless arm-guide main sail < 450 sq.ft, walder® 403.

Boat lenght 12 to 16 m. Available in 3 colors: Alu, Black, Titanium

Main sail < 700 Sq.ft

Walder® 403 h, product advantage: double stainless arm-guide and its swivel axis main sail < 860 sq.ft, walder® hyper.

Boat lenght 16 m and more. Available in black.

Product advantage: Double stainless Arm-guide and its swivel axis Main sail < 1180 Sq.ft

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe
• Thread starter Bristol26
• Start date Sep 7, 2010
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

I'm looking to purchase a Boom Brake system, there are several of them on the market. Dutchboom Brake, Walder Boom Brake, Gybe Easy and Anti-Jibe. Is one better than the other? The Dutch, Walder and Gybe hang from the boom and the Anti-Jibe is attached to the sides of the boom and mast. Which is the better setup? or are they all the same?  

We've had the Dutchman on our boat for 2 years now (thanks,SBO!) and it's worked really well. easily adjusted to control the boom downwind, even in heavy winds. I'd buy it again  

Had a Walder for years. Very simple and works well.  

I have the Gybe-Easy. Works well, but the friction line gets stiff over time and needs periodic washing and/or replacement to keep it soft enough to work as designed. I have it set up to be entirely controlled from the cockpit, which is nice if you do much single handing.  

Black Diamond Super 8 Descender Same principle as a Gybe-Easy which retails for $200+ A Figure 8 descender retails for $12 plus a mountain climbing rope at $3 a meter. There are a lot more people climbing mountains than sailing ;-)  

alexco38 said: Same principle as a Gybe-Easy which retails for $200+ A Figure 8 descender retails for $12 plus a mountain climbing rope at $3 a meter. There are a lot more people climbing mountains than sailing ;-) Click to expand

Stu Jackson

Why not use your mainsheet?  

Stu Jackson said: Why not use your mainsheet? Click to expand

Do the sheets going from each gunwale get in the way? Do you have to remove them or climb over them?  

Eirikur Brock

I'm not sure if you purchased a system yet,but after seeing the Anti-Jibe at the Annapolis boat show we purchased one. We were only on our boat a couple times after installation, but the system is so amazingly easy to operate we engaged it every down wind run no matter how quick it was going to be (it even gave our 8 year old a "job" on the boat). Hope this helps, a preventer really is worth every dime!  

Bristol26 said: Do the sheets going from each gunwale get in the way? Do you have to remove them or climb over them? Click to expand

I did buy the Anti-Jibe and used it quit a few times, it's slick. Once it's on it's very easy to use. Rich, check it out there isn't anything to trip over or unclip.  

The gybe easy's rope get stiff and needs to be replaced, what tenision do you use when sailing.. I read about it and watch the video.. I didn't want to mess tensions or groves or anything. That's why I chose Anti-Jibe. Pull it and it's locked, open the rope clutch and the boom can move again..easy  

Bristol26 said: The gybe easy's rope get stiff and needs to be replaced, what tenision do you use when sailing.. I read about it and watch the video.. I didn't want to mess tensions or groves or anything. That's why I chose Anti-Jibe. Pull it and it's locked, open the rope clutch and the boom can move again..easy Click to expand

Attachments

Boom Brake, don't leave the dock without it. My wife almost got smacked by the boom on our first outing and now I have a Dutchman. I got it used here on this site and never leave the dock without it setup. Sometimes I will bring a line back to the winch to make the tention easier to adjust on the fly. I also raised the boom 4". Putting up the Bimini will also keeps the crews heads down.  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

Home of the

Dutchman Sail Flaking System – Dutchman Boom Brake – Track Hardware

Watch the Dutchman Boom Brake in action!

At Dutchmar, we focus on innovative yet practical, seaman-like solutions to sail handling. By weaving the lines through the sail, the Dutchman Flaking System flakes the sail as it is lowered, rather than collecting the sail in a pile. It does not catch the sail as it’s lowered and there is no need to head into the wind. We also recommend a low friction track system, such as the Dutchman UHMW track. Other tracks can also be used, but consider our track recommendations for a perfect solution.

Product Info

Dutchman Flaking Systems

Dutchman Boom Brake

Track System & Hardware

DreamGreen Boom Brakes

Capt. don stainless steel 316l boom brakes.

Sail any size boat with confidence. A boom brake is a great device for controlling an intentional gybe and a critical safety device for the unexpected gybe, particularly when sailing at night, short handed and in poor conditions. It reduces your work load, stress on your rig and worries.

Designed for 3/8 in to 1/2 inch diameter (9-12 mm) rope.

It is recommended not to fix to a single loading point on the boom. String a line from either end of the boom and attach your boom brake/preventer to that. That will keep all loads in compression of the boom.

If you cannot rig a line below the boom then rig one on both sides of the boom and attach the brake to both either directly or from a line to them.

If Interested Please visit www.dreamgreen.org 

Comments are closed.

• Shopping Cart
• Quote Request
• Pipe Bending
• Product Support
• Digital Tension Gauge
• Promtional Items
• Rigging Quote Request
• Hayn Rigging

Find the parts for your Boat Model Here

• Sparring Partners
• Help Wanted